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THE 



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OF Tin: 



n 5 



BRITISH ARMY 



AT 



WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS, 



IN 



THE YEARS 1814—1815. 

BT 

THE AUTHOR OF THE SUBALTERN. 



FOURTH EDITION, 
CORRECTED AND REVISED. 



LONDON: 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 



MDCCCXXXVI. 



^6^ 
^^l 



Q^^' 



LONDON : 

Printed by W, Clowes and Sows, 

Stamford Street. 



or 



ADVERTISEMENT 



TO THE 



FOURTH EDITION. 



The following Narrative contains, it is believed, 
the only connected and authentic account, which 
has yet been given, of the expedition directed 
an-ainst Washinc^ton and New Orleans, towards 
the close of the late American war. It has been 
compiled, not from memory alone, but from a 
journal kept by the author whilst engaged in the 
enterprise ; and as the adventures of each day 
were faithfully noted down, as they occurred, and 
such remarks made upon passing events, as sug- 
gested themselves to his mind at the moment, 
the public may rely with confidence upon the 
general correctness of the details. The issues of 
the expedition were not, indeed, of the most 



IV ADVERTISEMENT. 

gratifying nature, but it is hoped that a plain 
relation of the proceedings of those to whom it 
was intrusted^ will not, on that account, prove 
uninteresting ; whilst nothing can he more evi- 
dent, than that the portion of our history which 
it embraces ought not to be overlooked, because 
it is little conducive to the encouragement of 
national vanity. It was chiefly indeed upon this 
account, as well as with a view to redeem from an 
oblivion which they hardly merit, the actions and 
sufferings of a few brave men, that the Narrative 
now submitted to the public was written. 



NARRATIVE, 

8fc. 



A REVOLUTION must occuv in the condition and 
sentiments of mankind more decided tlian we 
have any reason to expect that tlie lapse of ages 
will produce, before the mighty events which dis- 
tinguished the spring of IS 14, shall be spoken of 
in other terms than those of unqualified admi- 
ration. It was then that Europe, which during 
so many years had groaned beneath the miseries 
of war, found herself at once, and, to her remotest 
recesses, blessed with the prospect of a sure and 
permanent peace. Princes, who had dwelt in 
exile till the very hope of restoration to power 
began to depart from them, beheld themselves 
unexpectedly replaced on the thrones of their an- 
cestors ; dynasties, which the will of one man liad 
erected, disappeared with the same abruptness 
with which they had arisen ; and the influence 
of changes, wliich a quarter of a century of rapine 

B 



2 CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES. [CH. 

and conquest liad produced in the arrangements 
of general society, ceased, as if by magic, to be 
felt, or at least to be acknowledged. It seemed, 
indeed, as if all wliicli had been passing during 
the last twenty or thirty years, had passed not 
in reality, but in a dream ; so perfectly unlooked 
for were the issues of a struggle, to which, in 
whatever light we may regard it, the history of 
the whole world presents no parallel. 

At the period above alluded to, it was the 
writer's fortune to form one of a body of persons 
in whom the unexpected cessation of hostilities 
may be supposed to have excited sensations more 
powerful and more mixed than those to which 
the common occurrences of life are accustomed to 
give birth. He was then attached to that por- 
tion of the Peninsular army to which the siege 
of Bayonne had been entrusted ; and on the 
28th of April beheld, in common with his com- 
rades, the tri-coloured flag, which, for upwards 
of two months, had waved defiance from the 
battlements, give place to the ancient drapeau 
blanc of the Bourbons. That such a spectacle 
could be regarded by any British soldier without 
stirring up in him strong feelings of national 
pride and exultation, is not to be imagined. I 
believe, indeed, that there was not a man in < ur 
ranks, however humble his station, to why.iQ 



► 



t 

I.] CESSATION OF HOSTI T.ITFRS. 3 

bosom these feclinp^s were a stranofer. Bui the 
excitation of tlie moment havin<2^ passed away, 
other and no less powerful feelini^s succeeded ; 
and I hey were painful, or the reverse, according 
as they ran in one or other of the channels into 
which tlie situations and prospects of individuals 
not unnaturally guided them. By such as liad 
been long absent from their homes, the idea of 
enjoying once more the society of friends and 
relatives, was liailed with a deerree of deliirht too 
engrossing to afford room for the occurrence of 
any other anticipations ; to those who liad either 
no homes to look to, or had quitted them only a 
short time a2:o, the thoughts of revisitin"- Enir- 
land came mixed with other thoughts, little 
gi'atifying, because at variance with all their 
dreams of advancement and renown. For my 
o^\^l part I candidly confess, that though I had 
just cause to look forward to a return to the 
bosom of my family with as much satisfaction as 
most men, the restoration of peace excited in me 
sensations of a very equivocal nature. At the 
age of >ighteen, and still enthusiastically attached 
to my profession, neither the prospect of a reduc- 
tion to half-pay, nor the expectation of a long 
continuance in a subaltern situation, were to me 
productive of any pleasurable emotions ; and 
hen> \ though I entered heartily into all the 

b2 



4 WAR WITH THE UNITED STATES. [CH. 

arrangements by which those about me strove 
to evince their gratification at the glorious ter- 
mination of the war^ it must be acknowledged 
that I did so, without experiencing much of the 
satisfaction with the semblance of which my out- 
ward behaviour might be marked. 

Such being my own feelings, and the feelings 
of the great majority of those immediately around 
me, it was but natural that we should turn our 
views to the only remaining quarter of the globe 
in which the flame of war still continued to burn. 
Though at peace with France, England, we re- 
membered, was not yet at peace with the United 
States ; and reasoning, not as statesmen but as 
soldiers, we concluded that she was not now likely 
to make peace with that nation till she should be 
able to do so upon her own terms. Having such 
an army on foot, what line of policy could appear 
so natural or so judicious as that she should em- 
ploy, if not the whole, at all events a large pro- 
portion of it, in chastising an enemy, than whom 
none had ever proved more vindictive or more I 
ungenerous. Our view of the matter accordingly 
was, that some fifteen or twenty thousand men 
would be forthwith embarked on board of ship 
and transported to the other side of the Atlantic ; 
that the w^ar would there be carried on with a 
vigour conformable to the dignity and resources 



I.] EXPECTED EMBARKATION FOR AMERICA. 5 

of the country which waged it ; and that no men- 
tion of ])cacc would be made till our general 
should be in a situation to dictate its conditions 
in the enemy's capital. 

Wliether any design of the kind was ever 
seriously entertained, or whether men merely 
asserted as a truth, what they earnestly desired 
to be such, I know not ; but the white flag had 
hardly been hoisted on the citadel of Bayonne, 
when a rumour became prevalent that an exten- 
sive encampment of troops, destined for the Ame- 
rican war, was actually forming in the vicinity of 
Bourdeaux. A variety of causes led me to anti- 
cipate that the corps to which I was attached 
would certainly be employed upon that service. 
In the progress of the war which had been just 
brought to a conclusion, we had not suffered so 
severely as many other corps ; and though not 
excelling in numbers, it is but justice to affirm, 
that a more effective or better organized bat- 
talion could not be found in the whole army. 
We were all, moreover, from our commanding 
officer down to the youngest ensign, anxious to 
gather a few more laurels, even in America ; and 
we had good reason to believe, that those in 
power were not indisposed to gratify our incli- 
nations. Under these circumstances we clung 
with fondness to the hope, that our martial career 



6 ENCAMPMENT NEAR PASSAGES. [CH. 

had not yet come to a close; and employed the 
space which intervened between the eventful 28th 
of April and the 8th of the following month, 
chiefly in forming guesses as to the point of at- 
tack, towards which it w^as likely that we should 
be turned. 

Though there was peace between the French 
and British nations, the form of hostilities was 
so far kept up between the garrison of Bayonne 
and the army encamped around it, that it was 
only by an especial treaty that the former were 
allowed to send out parties for the purpose of 
collecting forage and provisions from the adjacent 
country. The foraging parties, however, being 
permitted to proceed in any direction most con- 
venient to themselves, the suj^plies of corn and 
grass, which had heretofore proved barely suf- 
ficient for our own horses and cattle, soon began 
to fail, and it was found necessary to move more j 
than one brigade to a distance from the city. 
Among others, the brigade of which my regi- 
ment formed a part, received orders on the 7th 
of May to fall back on the road towards Passages. 
These orders we obeyed on the following morn- 
ing, and after an agreeable march of fifteen or 
sixteen miles, pitched our tents in a thick wood, 
about half-way between the village of Bedart, and 
the town of St. Jean de Luz. In this position 



i 



J.] MARCH TOWARDS BOURDKAUX. 7 

we remained for nearly a week, our ex])ectations 
of employment on the other side of the Atlantic 
becomini; daily less and less sanguine, till at 
len<i;tli all doubts on the sid)ject were put an end 
to by the sudden arrival of a dispatch, whiili 
commanded us to set out with as little delay as 
possible towards Bourdeaux. 

It was on the evening of the 14th that the 
route was received, and on the I'oUowing morn- 
ing, at daybreak, we commenced our nuu'ch. 
The country through which we moved had no- 
thing in it, unconnected with past events, cal- 
culated in any extraordinary degree to attract 
attention. Behind us, indeed, rose the Pyrenees 
in all their grandeur, forming, on that side, a 
noble boundary to the prospect ; and on our left 
was the sea, a boundary different it is true in 
kind, though certainly not less magnificent. 
But, excepting at these two extremities, there 
was nothing in the landscape on which the e3'C 
loved particularly to rest, because the country, 
though pretty enough, has none of that extjuisitc 
richness and luxuriance which we had been led 
to expect as characteristic of the South of France. 
The houses, too, being all in a ruinous and dihi- 
pidated condition, reminded us more fbrcil)ly of 
the scenes of violence and outrage which had 
been lately acted among them, than of those 



8 MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. [CH. 

ideas of rural contentment and innocence, which 
various tales and melo-dramas had taught us to 
associate in our own minds ^\dth thoughts of the 
land of the vine. 

Regarded, however, in connexion with past 
events, the scene was indeed most interesting ; 
though to a stranger fresh from England, a man, 
we will suppose, of retired and peaceful habits, 
I can readily imagine that it would have been 
productive of much pain ; for on each side of 
the road, in whatever direction we cast our eyes, 
and as far as the powers of vision extended, we 
beheld cottages unroofed and in ruins, chateaux 
stripped of their doors and windows, gardens 
laid waste, the walls demolished, and the fruit 
trees cut down ; whole plantations levelled, and 
vineyards trodden under foot. Here and there, 
likewise, a redoubt or breast-work presented 
itself; whilst caps, broken firelocks, pieces of 
clothing, and accoutrements scattered about in 
profusion, marked the spots where the strife had 
been most determined, and where many a fine 
fellow had met his fate. Our journey lay over 
a field of battle, through the entire extent of 
which the houses were not only thoroughly 
gutted, (to use a \ailgar but most expressive 
phrase,) but for the most part were riddled with 
cannon shot. Round some of the largest, indeed. 



( 



I.] MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 9 

there was not a wall nor a tree, wliicli did not 
present evident proofs of its liavinj^ been con- 
verted into a temporary place of defence, whilst 
the deep ruts, in what had once been lawns and 
flower-gardens, showed, that all their beauty had 
not protected them from being destroyed by the 
rude passage of heavy artillery. 

Immediately beyond the village of Bcdart, 
such spectacles were particularly frequent. It 
was here, it may be remembered, that in the pre- 
ceding month of December there had been light- 
ing for four successive days ; and the number of 
little hillocks now within our view, from under 
most of which leffs and arms were be^^inninic to 
show themselves, as well as the other objects 
which I have attempted to describe, sufficiently 
attested the obstinacy with which that fighting 
had been maintained. 

In the bosom of a man of peace, it is very con- 
ceivable that all this would have excited feelings 
exceedingly painful ; in ours, such feelings were 
overborne by others of a very different nature. 
If we gazed with peculiar interest upon one hovel 
more than upon another, it w^as because some 
of us had there maintained ourselves ; if we 
endeavoured to count the number of shot-holes 
in any wall, or the breaks in any hedge, it was 

b3 



10 AIsGLET. [CH. 

because we had stood behind it, when '' the 
iron hail" fell thick and fast around us. Our 
thoughts, in short, had more of exultation in 
them than of sorrow ; for though now and then, 
when the name of a fallen comrade was men- 
tioned, it was accompanied with a '' poor fellow !" 
the conversation soon returned again to the ex- 
ploits and hair-breadth escapes of the survivors. 
On the whole, therefore, our march was one of 
deep interest and high excitement, feelings which 
did not entirely evaporate when we halted, about 
two hours after noon, at the village of Anglet. 

We found this \dllage in the condition in which 
it was to be expected that a place of so much 
importance during the progress of the late siege 
would be found,— in other words, completely me- 
tamorphosed into a chain of petty posts. Being 
distant from the outworks of Bayonne not more 
than a mile and a half, and standing upon the 
great road by which all the suppUes for the left 
of the British army were brought up, no means, 
as may be supposed, had been neglected, which 
art or nature could supply, towards rendering it 
as secure against a sudden excursion of the gar- 
rison as might be. About one hundred yards in 
front of it, felled trees were laid across the road 
mth their branches turned towards the town, 



I.] ANGLET. 1 i 

forming what soldiers, in the language ol" tlicir 
profession, term an abattis. Forty or fifty yards 
in rear of this a ditch was dug, and a breast-work 
thrown up, from behind which a party might, do 
great execution upon any body of men strugghng 
to force their way over that impediment. On 
each side of the highway again, where the ground 
rises into little eminences, redoubts and batteries 
were erected, so as to command the whole with 
a heavy flanking fire; while every house and 
hovel, lying at all within the line of expected 
operations, was loop-holed, and otherwise put in 
a posture of defence. But upon the fortification 
of the church a more than ordinary degree of 
care seemed to have been bestowed. As it stood 
upon a little eminence in the middle of the ham- 
let, it was no hard matter to convert it into a 
tolerably regular fortress, wliich might serve the 
double purpose of a magazine for warlike stores, 
and a post of defence against the enemy. With 
this view the churchyard was surrounded by a 
row of stout palings, called in military phraseo- 
logy, stockades, from certain openings in which 
the muzzles of half a dozen pieces of Hght artil- 
lery protruded. The walls of the edifice itself 
were, moreover, strengthened by an embankment 
of earth to the height of perliaps four or five 
feet from the ground, above wliich narrow open- 



12 MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. [cH. 

ings were made, in order to give to its garrison 
an opportunity of levelling their muskets ; while 
on the top of the tower a small homtzer was 
mounted, from which either shot or shell could 
be thrown with effect into any of the lanes or 
passes near. It is probably needless to add, 
that the interior arrangements of this house of 
God had undergone a change as striking as that 
which affected its exterior. Barrels of gunpow- 
der, with piles of balls of all sizes and dimen- 
sions, now occupied the spaces where worshippers 
had often crowded ; and the very altar was 
heaped up with spunges, wadding, and other 
implements necessary in case of an attack. 

I have been thus minute in my description of 
Anglet, because what has been said of it will ap- 
ply more or less exactly to every village, hamlet, 
or cluster of cottages, within the compass of what 
were called the lines. It is true that neither here 
nor elsewhere, excepting at one particular point, 
and that on the opposite side of the river, were 
any serious intentions entertained of breaching or 
storming the place ; and that the sole object of 
these preparations was to keep the enemy within 
his works, and to cut him oft' from all communica- 
tion with the surrounding country. But to effect 
even this end, the utmost vigilance and precaution 
were necessary, not only because the number of 



I.] MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 13 

troops employed on the service was Ivardly ade- 
quate to discharge it, but because tlie garrison 
hemmed in, was well known to be at once nume- 
rous and enterprising. The reader may accord- 
ingly judge what appearance a country ])resented, 
which, to the extent of fifteen or twenty miles 
round was thus treated ; where every house was 
fortified, every road blocked up, every eminence 
crowned with field works, and every place swarm- 
ing with armed men. Nor was its aspect less 
striking by night than by day. Gaze where he 
might, the eye of the spectator then rested upon 
some portion of one huge circle of fires ; by the 
glare of which, the white tents or rudely con- 
structed huts of the besiegers were, from time to 
time, made visible. 

While things continued thus, the condition of 
the peaceful inhabitants of this district could 
hardly fail to be one of extreme discomfort. Of 
these the greater number had indeed fled on the 
advance of the British army, leaving their houses 
and effects a prey to the conquerors ; but there 
WTre some who, having probably no place of refuge 
to retire to, remained in their homes, and threw 
themselves upon our mercy for protection. It is 
not requisite that I should now inform the reader 
of the strict discipline which Lord Wellington 
preserved in every division of his army ; his 



14 MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. [CH. 

first step, on entering France, had been to in- 
form the people that against them no violence 
was intended ; and the assurance thus given, was 
in no instance, at least wantonly, violated. But, 
however orderly the conduct of an invading force 
may be, their very presence must occasion a 
thousand inconveniences to those upon whom 
they are quartered ; not the least distressing of 
which is, perhaps, the feeling of degradation 
which the consciousness of being in the power 
of armed foreigners can hardly fail to produce. 
Then there is the total destruction of all do- 
mestic comfort which the occupation of a man's 
house by large bodies of soldiers produces ; the 
liability to which the females, in particular, are 
exposed to insult from the common troopers ; and 
the dread of vengeance from any delinquent, on 
whom their complaints may have brought do^vn 
chastisement, — all these things must, and do 
create a degree of misery, of which the inhabit- 
ants of Great Britain may thank God that they 
know nothing except by name. In the vicinity 
of Bayonne, moreover, the country-people lived 
in daily and nightly expectation of finding them- 
selves involved in all the horrors and dangers of 
a battle. Sorties were continually looked for, 
and however these might terminate, the non- 
combatants felt that they must be equally the 



1.] MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 15 

sufferers. Nay, it was no iincomniou ground of 
complaint among them, that even the total dv- 
feat of our forces would bring with it uo relief, 
because, by remaining to receive us, tliey had 
disobeyed the proclamations of Marshal Soult. 
and were consequently liable to punishment as 
traitors. 



16 BAYONNE. fCH 



CHAPTER II. 

As soon as the bustle of encamping was over, 
and my time absolutely at my own disposal, I 
took advantage of an offered passport, and pro- 
ceeded into Bayonne. It will be readily believed 
that I entered this city with feelings very dif- 
ferent from those of a common traveller. Having 
lain before it as a besieger for upwards of two 
months, its shops, its trade, its public buildings 
and places of amusement were to me objects of, 
comparatively speaking, little interest or curiosity. 
Its fortifications and means of defence were, in- 
truth, what I was principally anxious to examine. 
Hitherto I could judge of them only from out- 
ward appearances and vague reports; and now 
that an opportunity was offered of so doing with 
greater accuracy, I confess that my inclination 
prompted me to embrace that opportunity, rather 
than to hunt for pictures which I could not value, 
or fatigue my imagination by endeavouring to 
discover fine specimens of architecture, amidst 
heavy and ill-built churches. 



II.] BAYONNE. 17 

It is not my intention to attempt any scientific 
or technical review of the works whicli a very 
natural curiosity tempted me to examine ; ])artly 
because I confess myself little competent to the 
taslv^ and partly because, were tlie contrary the 
case, I am inclined to believe that such a review 
would not prove very interesting to the public in 
general. Enough is done if I endeavour to im- 
press my reader with as many of the feelings 
which I then experienced, as may be done by 
detailing them ; and, at the same time, enable 
him to form some general idea of a place before 
whose walls no trilling quantity of British blood 
has been spilt. 

The city of Bayonne stands, as everyl^ody 
knows, upon the Adour, about six or eight miles 
from the point where that river falls into the sea. 
On the southern or Spanish bank, where the whole 
of the city, properly so called, is built, the coun- 
try, to the distance of two or three miles from the 
walls, is perfectly flat, and the soil sandy, and 
apparently not very productive. On the opposite 
bank the ground rises rather abruptly from the 
brink of the stream, sloping upwards likewise 
from the sea, till you arrive at the pinnacle upon 
which the citadel is erected, and which hangs 
immediately over the town. Thus, though 
the Adour in fact separates the city from the 



18 BAYONNE. [CH. 

suburbs and citadel, yet as the ramparts of the 
former extend to the water's edge on both sides, 
and as those of the latter continue the sweep 
from points immediately opposite, the general 
appearance presented is that of one considerable 
town, with a broad river flowing through the 
middle of it. 

It will be seen, even from this short and im- 
perfect sketch, that its situation gives to Bayonne, 
considered as a military post, a superiority over 
most cities ; inasmuch as it affords peculiar facili- 
ties towards rendering it a place of great strength. 
On one side there is a plain, always accounted by 
engineers the most convenient for the construc- 
tion of fortifications ; on the other an eminence, 
lofty enough to command the surrounding coun- 
try, and at the same time sufficiently level at the 
summit to receive the walls of a fortress, powerful 
at once from its position and regularity. But the 
gi'eat strength of Bayonne arose at this juncture 
not so much from its original defences as from 
the numerous outworks which had been lately 
added to it. It was along the course of the 
Adour, as the reader will probably recollect, or 
rather between the Adour and the Nieve, that 
Soult formed his famous intrenched camp. The 
right of tliis chain of stupendous works rested 
upon the city, the importance of which was consc- 



II.] BAYONNE. I!) 

qucntly much increased ; and as the capture of it 
would have occasioned, not only the loss of a 
town, but the turning of the whole position, no 
pains were spared in rendering it as nearly im- 
pregnable as possible. That I may convey some 
notion to the minds of others of the nature of 
these works, I will describe the aspect which they 
presented to myself, as I rode from Anglet to- 
wards the city. 

When I had proceeded about a mile and a half 
beyond our advanced posts, I found myself in 
front of the first hne of defence. This consisted 
of a battery mounting three eightecn-pounders, 
upon the road, flanked by other batteries; one 
on eacli side ; all so placed as that whichsoever of 
them should be attacked, it might be defended by 
a cross fire from the rest. These were of course 
additionally strengthened by ditches and felled 
trees ; but they were open in the rear ; and 
though very formidable to an assailing party, 
yet, when taken, could have been of small ser- 
vice to the conquerors, being themselves exposed 
to the fire of the second line. The situation of 
the second line again, was similar in every re- 
spect to that of the first, being, like it, open in 
the rear, and placed under the guns of the town. 
Thus, after having forced two ijowerful lines of 
defence, the besiegers would find themselves 



20 BAYONNE. [CH. ; 

i 

almost as far as ever from the attainment of their 

object, being then only arrived at the point where | 
the labours of a siege could commence. 

But the maintenance of Bayonne must at all 
times depend upon keeping possession of the ; 
citadel. The city lying upon a plain, and the 
castle standing upon an eminence immediately \ 
above it, it is clear that, were the latter taken, I 
the former must either surrender or be speedily 
reduced to ruins. It is true that, by destroying ; 
the bridge which connects them, all communica- 
tion between the two places would be cut off; butH 
the distance from the one to the other being not \ 
more than half-musket shot, and the guns of the i 
fort pointing directly down upon the streets and ^ 
houses of the city, any attempt to hold out could I 
cause only the destruction of the town, and the j 
unavenged slaughter of its garrison. Of the | 
truth of this the French were as much aware as ; 
their enemies, nor did they neglect any means \ 
which an accurate knowledge of engineering i 
could point out, for the defence of what they | 
justly considered as the key of the entire posi- 
tion. In addition to its own very regular and i 
well-constructed fortifications, two strong re- I 
doubts were thrown up, on two sides of the fort, I 
upon the only spots of ground calculated for the 
purpose ; both of which, I was informed by my j 



II.] BAYONNE. 21 

guide, were undermined and loaded with <run- 
powdcr, ready to be sprung as soon as they should 
fall into our hands. They had judged, and judged 
correctly, that if ever the phice should be in- 
vested, it would be here that the trenches would 
be opened, and the breaching batteries erected ; 
and they made every preparation to meet the 
danger, which great prudence and military skill 
could suggest. 

Bayonne, though a populous place, does not 
cover so much ground as a stranger would be led 
to suppose. Like most walled towns, its streets, 
vnth. the exception of one or two, are in general 
narrow, and the houses lofty : but it is compact, 
and, on the whole, clean, and neatly built. The 
number of inhabitants I should be inclined to 
estimate at somewhere about thirty thousand, 
exclusive of the garrison, which at this time 
amounted to fourteen or fifteen thousand men ; 
but as most of the families appear to live in the 
style of those in the old town of Edinburgh, 
that is to say, several under the same roof, 
though each in a separate story or flat, it is not 
difficult to conceive how they contrive to find 
sufficient room, ^^4thin a compass apparently so 
narrow. Of its commerce and manufactures I 
can say little, except that I should not imagine 
either to be extensive. I am led to form this 



22 BAYONNE. [ch: 

opinion, partly from having seen no shipping at^ 
the wharfs, and partly because the Adour, though ^ 
here both wide and deep, is rendered unnavi^ '' 
gable to vessels of any size, by a shallow or bai^ 
at its mouth. There was, indeed, a sloop of war 
close to the town, but how it got there I am at a 
loss to conceive, unless it were built upon the 
river, and kept as an additional protection against 
a surprise from the water. The shops are, how- 
ever, good, particularly those where jewellery is 
sold ; an article in the setting and adorning of 
which the French, if they do not excel us in 
really substantial value, undoubtedly surpass us 
in elegance. 

When I had taken as complete a survey of the 
town as I felt disposed to take, I crossed the 
bridge with the intention of inspecting the inte- 
rior of the citadel. Here, however, I was dis- 
appointed, no strangers being admitted within 
its gates ; but as there was no objection made to 
my reconnoitring it from without, I proceeded 
towards the point where our trenches had been 
dug, and where it had been designed to breach 
and storm the place. To this I was urged by 
two motives, partly from the desire of obtaining 
the best view possible of the fort, and partly that 
I might examine the ground upon which the 
desperate affair of the 14th of April took place 



II.] ST. KTIENNE. 23 

I'lC reader cannot liave forj^ottcn, thai some 
hours before dayhght on the niorninj^ of that 
d ly, a viirorous and well - arranircd sortie was 
ji /^dc l)y the garrison, and tliat it was not with- 
out hard fighting' and a severe loss on both sides, 
that the attack was finally repulsed. 

Mounting the heights, I soon arrived at St. 
Etienne, a little village nearly on a level with the 
citadel, and not more than a quarter of a mile 
from its walls. From this point I could satisfy my 
curiosity to the full, and as the account may not, 
perhaps, be uninteresting, I shall describe, as well 
as I am able, the scene which here met my eyes. 

The ridge of little hills upon which the fort and 
village are built, though it rises by gentle grada- 
tion from the sea, towards the spot where I now 
stood, is nevertheless intersected and broken here 
aid there by deep glens or ravines. Two of 
these glens, one to the right, the other to the left, 
chance to occur immediately under the ramparts 
of the fortress, suppl3ing, in some measure, the 
purposes of a ditch, and leaving a sort of table 
or elevated neck of land between them, the ex- 
tremity of which is occupied by the village. On 
this neck of land the besieured had constructed 
one of the redoubts to which I alluded as having 
been lately thro\vn up, whilst on another table, at 
the opposite side of the left ravine, which winds 



24 ST. ETIENNE. [CH. i 

i 
I 

round in the direction of the wall, as nearly as if \ 
it were the work of art, stands the other redoubt, j 
Beyond this again, there is a perpendicular pre- I 
cipice, the hills there abruptly ending ; so that on | 
two sides the walls of the fort skirt the extremity i 
of a bare rock. It was along the outer ridges of | 
these ravines, and through the churchyard of St. \ 
Etienne, that our trenches were drawn, the vil- - 
lage itself being the most advanced British post ; ! 
and it was along these ridges, and in the street of i 
this village, that the action of the 14th of April i 
was fouo^ht. i 

It is not my business, neither indeed is it my ; 
intention, to relate here the particulars of that i 
affair. The French having contrived, in a dark ' 
nighty to elude the vigilance of our sentinels, came I 
upon the pickets unperceived, and took them com- j 
pletely by surprise. The battle was maintained on i 
both sides with great determination, and had it 1 
not been for the unfortunate capture of Sir John I 
Hope, and the fall of General Hay, the assailants | 
would have had little cause to rejoice at the result : 
for though the loss of the English was certainly j 
great, that of the French was at least not inferior. \ 
Yet the business was an unfortunate one to both j 
parties, since, before it took place, Buonaparte had : 
already abdicated, and the preliminaries of peace I 
were already signed between the two nations. 



II.] ST. KTIENNK. 25 

I found the villasjc, in wliich tlic fie:htinor had 
been most, obstinately maintained, in the condi- 
tion of most villan^es where such dramas liavc 
been acted. The street liad been barricaded, but 
the barricade was abnost entirely torn down ; the 
houses, trees, and church, like those we had ])assed 
upon the march, were covered with the marks of 
cannon and musket balls, whilst quantities of 
round and grape shot, of musket and pistol bul- 
lets, broken bayonets, swords, &c. &c., lay scat- 
tered about in every direction. Nor were these 
the only evidences of strife discernible. In many 
places, — on the pavement of the street, in the 
church-yard, but above all, on the floor of the 
church itself, — the traces of blood were still dis- 
tinctly visible. Beside the remains of the barri- 
cade, there stood a solitary six-pounder, which 
had been taken and re-taken nine times durinir 
the struggle; and a sprinkling of what looked like 
a mixture of blood and brains still adhering to its 
carriage and breech, showed that it had never been 
given up without the most desperate resistance. 
The mounds, too, under which the dead were 
buried, presented a peculiarly striking a])pear- 
ance ; for the field of action having been narrow, 
those that fell, fell in heaps together, and being 
buried in the same way, one was led to form an 
idea of greater slaughter, than if double the 

c 



26 ST. ETIENNE. [CH. 

number of graves had been distinguishable in a 
more extended space. 

Having now accomplished my wishes as far as 
I could, and beginning to feel somewhat fatigued 
with strolling about, I adjourned to an hotel in 
the city, from whence, in the evening, I went to 
the play. The house was poor, and the perform- 
ance miserable, consequently there was no great 
inducement to sit out the whole of the piece. 
After witnessing an act or two, therefore, I re- 
turned to the inn, where I slept, and at an early 
hour next morning rejoined my regiment, already 
under arms and making preparations for the con- 
tinuance of the march. 

As it would have been considerably out of our 
way to go round by the floating bridge,* permis- 
sion was applied for and granted, to pass directly 
through Bayonne. With bayonets fixed, band 
playing, and colours flying, we accordingly marched 

* The bridge here alluded to was thrown across the Adour 
by the Duke of Wellington, at the commencement of the 
siege. It was composed of a number of small fishing ves- 
sels fastened together with cords, and planked from one to 
another, the whole firmly moored about three miles below 
Bayonne. Whether the daringness of the attempt, or the 
difficulties surmounted in its completion, be considered, the 
construction of this bridge maybe looked upon as one of the 
most extraordinary actions of that extraordinary man. 



II.] MARCH THROUGH BAYONNE. 2 



c t 



aloii<2^ the streets of tliat city ; a large ])ro])orti()n 
of the garrison being drawn up to receive us, and 
the windows crowded with spectators, mah» and 
female,, eager to beliold the troops from whom, 
not long ago, they had prol)al)ly expected a visit 
of a very different nature. The scene was certainly 
remarkable enough, and the transition from ani- 
mosity to good-will, as singular as it was sudden; 
nor do I imagine that it would be easy to define 
the sensations of either party, on being tluis 
strangely brought in contact with the other. The 
females, indeed, waved their handkerchiefs, wliilst 
we bowed and kissed our hands ; but I thouirht I 
could discover something like a suppressed scowl 
upon the countenances of the military. Certain it 
is, that in whatever light the new state of affairs 
might be regarded by the great bulk of the nation, 
with the army it was by no means popular ; and 
at this period they appeared to consider the pas- 
sage of British troops through their lines, as the 
triumphal entrance of a victorious enemy. 

As soon as we had cleared the entrenchments 
of Bayonne, and got beyond the limits of the 
allied camps, we found ourselves in a country 
more peaceful and more picturesque than any we 
had yet traversed. There were here no signs of 
war, or marks of violence. The cottages were 
covered with honeysuckle and roses, the gardens 



c2 



28 MARCH TO ONDRES. [CH. 

were blooming in the most perfect order ; the 
corn was growing in great plenty and richness, 
and the vines were clustering round their poles 
like the hops in the gardens in Kent. It is im- 
possible to describe the feeling of absolute re- 
freshment, which such a sight stirred up in men 
who, for so long a time, had looked upon nothing 
but ruin and devastation. It is true that with 
respect to grandeur, or even beauty, the scenery 
through which we now travelled was not to be com- 
pared with the sublime passes of the P3Tenees, or 
with many other spots which we had beheld ; but 
in truth, an hamlet iminjured and tenanted by 
its OAvn rude peasantry, a field of Indian corn ex- 
hibiting no wasteful track of foragers, nay a single 
cottage with its flowers and evergreens bvidding 
around it, was at this time a more welcome object 
to our eyes, than the wildest mountains, or most 
romantic valleys, displaying no habitations except 
white tents, and no inhabitants except soldiers. 
For my own part, I felt as if I had once more re- 
turned into the bosom of civilized and domestic 
life, after having been for many months a wan- 
derer and a savage. 

The road along which we proceeded had been 
made by Napoleon, and was remarkably good. It 
was sheltered, on each side, from the rays of the 
sun, by groves of cork trees mingled with fir ; by 



U] MARCH TO ONDKES. 29 

which means, though the day was ovcTpowcTin«;ly 
hot, we did not siilFcr so much as we sliould other- 
wise have done. Our march was, therefore, ex- 
ceedingly agreeable, and we came in, about noon, 
very little fatigued, to the village of Ondres, 
where the tents were pitched, and we remained 
till the morrow. 



30 [CH. 



CHAPTER III. 

The dawn was just beginning to appear, when 
the bugles sounded, and the tents were struck. 
For the first few leagues, our route to-day re- 
sembled that of yesterday, in almost every par- 
ticular. There was the same appearance of 
peaceful quiet, the same delightful intermingling 
of woods, corn-fields, vineyards, and pasture ; but 
we had not proceeded far, when a marked dif- 
ference was perceptible ; every step we trod, the 
soil became more and more sandy, the cultivation 
less frequent, and the wood more abundant, till 
at last we found ourselves marching through the 
heart of an immense forest of pines. We had 
diverged, it appeared, from the main road, which 
carries the traveller through a rich and open 
country, and were pursuing another through the 
middle of those deserts and savannahs which lie 
towards the coast, a district known by the name 
of les Landes. There was something, if not beau- 
tiful, at least new and striking, in the scenery 
now around us. Wherever the eye turned, it 



HI.] LES LA.NDES. 31 

was met by one wide waste of i^loomv ]»ine-trocs; 
diversilied, here and there, by the uiiexjjocted 
appearance of a modest hamlet, wliich looked as if 
it were the abode of some newly-arrived settlers, 
in a country :, hitherto devoid of human habi- 
tations. 

Were I to continue the detail of a long; march 
throuii'h tliesc barren re<>ions, I should soon fa- 
tiguc, without amusing my reader: 1 shall, there- 
fore, content myself with observin<^% that day after 
day the same dreary prospect ])rcsented itself, 
varied by the occasional occurrence of hui^e un- 
cultivated plains, which apparently chequer the 
forest, at certain intervals, with spots of stunted 
and unprofitable pasturage ; upon these there 
were usually ilocks of sheep gTazing-, in the nu)de 
of watching which, the peasants fully evinced the 
truth of the old proverb, that necessity is the 
mother of invention. I do not know whether the 
practice to which I allude be generally known, but 
as it struck me as very remarkable, 1 shall oiler 
no apology for relating it. 

The whole of this district, as well where it is 
wooded, as where it is bare, is perfectly flat, con- 
taining scarcely a knoll or eminence of any s(»rt, 
as far as the eye can reach. In addition to this, 
the vast plains where the sheep are fed, many 
of which extend two or three leai^nies in every 



32 LES LANDES. [CH. 

direction, produce not so much as a fir-tree, by 
climbing which, a man might see to any of its 
extremities : and the consequence is, that the 
shepherds are constantly in danger of losing 
their sheep, as one loses sight of a vessel at sea, 
in the distance. To remedy this evil, they have 
fallen upon a plan not more simple than ingeni- 
ous ; they all walk upon stilts, exactly similar to 
those with which our school-boys amuse them- 
selves ; the only difference lying here, that whereas 
the schoolboys' stilts are with us seldom raised 
above ten or twelve inches from the ground, those 
of the French peasants are elevated to the height 
of six or eight feet. 

When we first caught a glimpse of these figures, 
it was in the dusk of the morning, and for a while, 
we were wilHng to persuade ourselves that the 
haze had deceived us, by seeming to enlarge bodies 
beyond their real dimensions. But when we looked 
at the trees, we saw them in their own proper size, 
nor could we suppose that the atmosphere would 
have an effect upon one object, which it had not 
upon another ; yet there appeared to be no other 
way of accounting for the phenomenon, unless 
indeed this wild country were the parent of a race 
of giants, for the men whom we saw resembled 
moving towers rather than mortals. I need not 
observe that our astonishment was very great; nor 



111.] LES LANDES. ii.J 

in fact was it much diminlslu'd \vlicn, on a nearer 
approach, we discovered the trutli, and witnessed 
the agility with which they moved, and the ease 
with which, aided by the poles which each carried 
in his hand, they would stoop to the ground, jnck 
up the smallest article, and stand upriglit again. 
But if we admired the skill of one or two indivi- 
duals, our admiration rose to a still higher pitch, 
when wc saw crowds of them together, all ccpially 
skilful ; till they informed us that the thing was 
not an amusement, but universally practised for 
the purpose I have stated. 

Besides this, 1 know of nothing in the customs 
of this isolated people at all worthy of notice, un- 
less, indeed, it be their method of supplying them- 
selves with lights. Being completely cut off from 
the rest of the world, it is not in their power, ex- 
cept when once or twice a year they travel to tlie 
nearest towns with their wool, to ])urchasc can- 
dles ; and, as they have no notion how these can 
be made, they substitute in their room a lamp fed 
with the turpentine extracted from the fir-trees. 
The whole process is simple and primitive : to 
obtain the turpentine, they cut a hole in the tree, 
and fasten a dish in it to catch the sap as it oozes 
through; and as soon as the dish is filled, tliey 
put a wick of cotton into the midst of the liijuor, 
and burn it as we do a lamp. The light is not 

c 5 



34 MARCH TO BOURDEAUX. [CH. 

indeed of the most brilliant nature, but it is at 
least better than none ; and, as they have fir trees 
in abundance Avithin their reach, there is no danger 
of their oil being quickly exhausted. 

In this manner was an entire week expended, 
each succeeding day introducing us to a repeti- 
tion of the same adventures, and a renewal of the 
same scenery, which had amused us during the 
day before ; nor was it till the morning of the 
twenty-third that we at last began to emerge 
from the forests, and to find ourselves once again 
in a more open country. At first, however, it can- 
not be said that, with respect to beauty, the change 
was greatly for the better. Upon the borders of 
the deserts, there is a little village called Le Barp, 
where we spent the night of the twenty-second ; 
from whence, till you arrive at a place called Belle- 
Vue, the country is exactly in that state which 
land assumes when nature has begun to lose 
ground, and art to gain it — when the wild simpli- 
city of the one is destroyed, and the rich luxuri- 
ance of the other has not yet been superinduced. 
So far, therefore, we proceeded, regretting, rather 
than rejoicing that we had quitted the woods; 
but no sooner had we attained that point, than 
there burst upon us, all on a sudden, a prospect 
as gloriously fertile as ever delighted the eyes of 
a weary traveller. 



111.] MAKCII TO HOUKDKAUX. 35 

Instead of bouiullcss forests of \nuc, the whole 
face of the countiy was now covered witli vine- 
yards, inters]>ersed, in the most exquisite and 
tasteful manner, witli corn-iields and meadows of 
the ricliest pasturaire. Nor was there any defi- 
ciency of timber ; a well-wooded chateau, witli its 
lawn and plantations, here and there presenting 
itself, while quiet hamlets and solitary cottages, 
scattered in great abundance over the scene, gave 
to it an appearance of life and pros|)erity, exceed- 
ingly bewitching. Had there been but the addi- 
tion of a fine river flowiny; throuoli the midst of 
it, and liad the ground been somewhat more 
broken into hill and dale, I shoi>ld have pro- 
nounced it the most enchanting ])rospect of tlie 
kind 1 had ever beheld ; but, unfortunately, both 
these were wanting. Though the effect of a first 
viev.', therefore, was striking and delightful, and 
though to the last we could not help acknowledg- 
ino' the richness of the land and its hi<i'h state of 
cultivation, its beauty soon began to pall. The 
fact is, that an immense plain, however adorned 
by the labour of man, is not an object u])on whicli 
it is pleasing to gaze for any length of time ; the 
eye becomes wearied with tlie extent of its own 
stretch, and as there is no boundary but the hori- 
zon, the imagination is left to picture a continu- 
ance of the same plain, till it becomes as tired of 



3G BOURDEAUX. [CH. 

fancying as the eye is of looking. Besides, we 
were not long in discovering that the vineyards 
were unworthy to be compared, in point of 
luxuriant appearance, with those of Spain and 
the more southern regions of France. In this 
neighbourhood, the vine is not permitted to grow 
to a greater height than three or four feet from 
the ground ; whereas in Spain, and on the bor- 
ders, it climbs, like the hop-plant in England, to 
the top of high poles, and hangs over from one 
row to another, in the most graceful festoons. In 
spite of these objections, however, no one could 
do otherwise than admit, that the change we had 
experienced was agreeable, and we continued to 
move on with greater alacrity, till it was evident, 
from the increasing number of seats and villas, 
that we were rapidly approaching the vicinity of 
Bourdeaux. 

Nor was it long before the towers and build- 
ings of that magnificent city began to be dis- 
cernible in the distance. Prompted by I know 
not what impulse, we almost involuntarily quick- 
ened our pace at the sight, and in a short time 
reached the suburbs, which, like those of most 
French towns, are composed of low houses, in- 
habited by the poorest and meanest of the people. 
Here we halted for a few minutes to refresh the 
men, when having again resumed the line of 



III.] BOURDEAUX. 37 

march, wo advanced under a triinn])lKd arch, ori- 
<;inally erected in honour of Na])olcon. hut now 
inscrihed with the name of the Duke l)'An"-()u- 
leme, and ornamented with j^arUrnds of llowcrs. 
Passini^ under tliis, we proceeded alon<^ one or 
two handsome streets, till we reached the MiH- 
tary Hospital, a large and commodious structure 
fitted up for the reception of several thousands of 
sick, where it was arranged that we should spend 
the night. 

The city of Bourdcaux has been too often de- 
scribed, and is too well known to my countrymen, 
in general, to render any particular account of it 
at all necessary from me ; and were the case other- 
wise, I confess that my opportunities of examin- 
ing it were not suilicient to authorize my entering 
upon such an attempt. Tlic whole extent of our 
sojourn was only during the remainder of that 
day (and it was past noon before we got in) and 
the ensuing night ; a space of time which ad- 
mitted of no more than a hurried stroll through 
some of the principal streets, and a hasty visit to 
such public buildings as are considered most 
worthy of attention. The palace of the Duke 
D'Angouleme, the Military Hospital, the Theatre, 
and the Cathedral, are all remarkably fme of their 
kind; whilst the public gardens, the Exchange, 



38 MACAU. fCH. ' 

•- j 

I 
I 

and fashionable promenades, are inferior only to I 
those of Paris itself. | 

I have said that our sojourn in Bourdeaux was ; 
limited to the short space of a few hours. We 
could have Avished indeed to prolong it, but to | 
wish was needless, for at an early hour next j 
morning we were again in motion, and proceeded \ 
to an extensive common, near the village of Ma- ■ 
cau, about three leagues from Bourdeaux, where , 
we found a considerable force already assembled. 1 
Judging from the number of tents upon the ' 
heath, I conceive that there could not be fewer j 
than eight or ten thousand men in that camp, the ] 
whole of whom, w^e naturally concluded, were | 
destined for the same service with ourselves, i 
The sight was at once pleasing and encouraging, i 
because there could be no doubt that such a j 
force, ably commanded, would carry everything 
before it. 

In this situation we continued, without the oc- 
currence of any incident deserving of record, till 
the 27th, when an order arrived for the officers to 
dispose of their horses without delay. This was 
necessarily done at an enormous loss; and, on 
the morning of the 28th, we set forward towards 
the point of embarkation. But, alas ! in the num- 
bers allotted for the trans- Atlantic war, we found 



I 



111.] LA MOE. :j'.) 

ourselves grievously disappointed, since, insti'ad 
of the whole division, only two regiments, nt-itlur 
of tliem surpassingly numerous, were directed to 
move; it was not our business, however, to t[Lus- 
tion the wisdom of any measure adopted by our 
superiors, and we accordingly marched on in as 
high spirits, as if we had been followed by tiie 
entire Peninsular army. 

The remainder of our journey occupied two 
days, nor do I often remember to Iiave s])ent a 
similar space of time with greater satisfaction ; our 
route lay through some of the most fertile cHstricts 
in France, passing Chateau Margaux, famous for 
its wine, with other places not inferior to it eitlier 
in richness of soil, or in beauty of prospect. The 
weather was delightful, and the grapes, though 
not vet ripe, were hanging in heavy bunches from 
the vines, giving promise of much wealth to come ; 
the hav season had commenced, and numerous 
groups of happy-looking peasants were busy in 
every field; in short, it was a march upon wliicli 
I shall never look back without pleasure. 

The close of the first days ])rogress brought us 
to a village called La Moe, beautifully situated 
within view of the majestic waters of the Garonne. 
Here, for the first time since we cpiitted Bayonne, 
were we quartered upon the inhabitants; a mea- 
i sure which the loss of our tents rendered neces- 



40 AT SEA. [CH. III. 

sary. They received us with so much frankness, 
and treated us with so much civility, I had ahnost 
said kindness, that it was not without a feeling of 
something like regret that we parted from them. 
The second day carried us to Pauliac, an incon- 
siderable town upon the banks of the same river, 
where we found boats ready to convey us to the 
shipping, which lay at anchor to receive us. 

To embark the troops in these boats, and to 
huddle them on board two dirty little transports, 
occupied some time, and the prQvoking part of 
the business was, that all this trouble was to be 
gone through again. The men-of-war, in which 
we were to cross the Atlantic, could not come up 
so high, for want of water ; and on this account it 
was that transports were sent as passage-boats to 
carry us to them. But the wind was foul, and 
blew so strong, that the masters would not ven- 
ture to hoist a sail ; so we were obliged to endure 
the misery of a crowd in a small vessel for two 
nights and a day ; nor was it till past noon on 
the 3 1st, that the regiment to which I was at- 
tached found itself finally settled in His Majes- 
ty's ship of 64 guns. 



41 



CHAPTER IV. 

The land army, destined for the invasion of the 
United States, which took shipping- at this })eriod 
in the Garonne, consisted but of three battahons 
of infantry, the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments ; 
the two former mustering each about eiglit liun- 
dred bayonets, the last not more than six luin- 
dred. In addition to these, there were two officers 
of engineers, a brigade of artillery, a detachment 
of sappers and miners, a party of artillery drivers, 
with a due proportion of officers bclongmg to the 
Medical and Commissariat departments. The 
whole together could not be computed at more 
than two thousand five hundred men, if indeed it 
amounted to so great a number ; and was placed 
under the command of Major-General Russ, a 
very gallant and experienced officer. 

The fleet, again, consisted of the Royal Oak, 
of 74 guns, bearing the flag of Rear- Admiral 
Malcolm; the Diadem and Dictator, two sixty- 
fours, armed en flute; the Pomone, Menelaus, 
Trave, Weser, and Thames, frigates, the three 



i 



42 AT SEA. [CH. 



i 



last armed in the same manner as the Diadem 
and Dictator ; the Meteor and Devastation, bomb 
vessels ; together with one or two gun-brigs, 
making, in all, a squadron of eleven or twelve 
ships of war, with several store ships and trans- 
ports. 

On board the Royal Oak were embarked the' 
General, Avith his staff, and the artillery; the 
Trave and Weser were filled with the 4th ; the 
44th were divided between the Dictator and the 
Thames, in the first of which ships were also the j 
engineers ; the 85th occupied the Diadem ; and 
the rest were scattered through the fleet, partly in 
the men-of-war, and partly in the transports. 

As soon as the troops, with all their baggage, 
were finally settled in the vessels allotted for their 
accommodation, the signal was made to weigh ; but 
the wind being adverse, and the navigation of th^ 
Garonne far from simple, it could not be obeyed 
with safety. Every thing, therefore, remained 
quiet till the evening of the 2nd of June, when the 
gale moderating a little, the anchors were raised, 
and the sails hoisted. The tide was beffinnino; 
to ebb when this was done, favoured by which 
the ships drifted gradually on their covirse ; but 
before long, the breeze shifting, blew directly in 
their sterns, when they stood gallantly to sea, 
clearing the river before dark ; and, as there 



rt! 

IV.] ST. MICHAEL S. H 

. was no lull diiriiifi: the whole of the nii^lii. l»y day- 
brcak the coast of France was not to be discerned. 
i All was now one wide waste of waters, as far as tlie 
eye could reach, bounded on every side by the 
distant horizon; a scene which, thoui^h at lirst it 
must strike with awe and wonder a ])erson unac- 
customed to it, soon becomes insipid, and even 
wearisome, from its constant sameness. 

The fair wind which carried us out of the Ga- 
ronne, continuinir to blow without any interrup- 
tion till the 19th of June, it was that day calcu- 
lated, by consulting the log and taking observa- 
tions, that the Azores, or Western Islands, could 
not be very distant. Nor, as it turned out, were 
these calculations incorrect ; for, on ascendin«r the 
deck next morning, the first object that met our 
e^-es was the high land of St. Michaels, rising, 
like a collection of blue clouds, out of the water. 
^\ ith such a prospect before us, our consternation 
may be guessed at, when we found ourselves de- 
serted by the breeze which had hitherto so uni- 
formly favoured us, and lyino- as motionless as 
logs, under the influence of a dead calm. 

But the complaints to which we had begun to 
give utterance, were speedily changed again into 
rejoicings, for before mid-day the breeze once 
more freshened, and we approached every moment 
nearer and nearer to the object of our wishes. 



44 ST. MICHAELS. [CH. 

As soon, too, as we contrived to double the pro- 
jecting headland which had attracted our atten- 
tion in the morning, our course became productive 
of much interest and pleasure. We had neared 
the shore considerably, and were moving at a rate 
sufficiently rapid to prevent further repining, and 
at the same time slow enough to permit a distinct 
and calm survey of the beach, with ihe numerous 
villages, seats, and convents, that adorned it. 

The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even 
to the very edge of the water, but the heights, 
though lofty, do not present a rugged or barren g 
appearance. Here and there, indeed, bare rocks j 
push themselves into notice, but in general the 
ascent is easy, and the hills are covered to the 
tops with groves of orange-trees and beautiful , 
green pasturage. Like other Portuguese settle- j 
ments, this island abounds in religious houses, 
the founders of many of which do not appear to 
have been deficient in taste when they pitched 
upon situations for building. There was one of 
these in particular that struck me : it stood upon 
a sort of platform or terrace, about half-way be- 
tween the sea and the summit of the mountain ; 
above it were hanging woods, whether natural or 
artificial I cannot say, broken in upon here and 
there by projecting rocks; and round it were 
plantations of orange-trees loaded with fruit, and 



i 



i 



IV.] ST. Michael's. ^15 

interspersed with myrtles, and otlier odorifcTous 

shrubs. Being greatly pleased with tlic mansion 

and the surrounding scenery, I naturally iiuiuircd 

from the pilot (for one had already come off to 

us) as to its use, and the quality of its owner ; 

and from him I learnt that it was a convent. I 

forget of what order, — a piece of intelligence 

which was soon confirmed hy the sound of hells 

distinctly audible as wc passed. 

In this manner wc continued to coast along, 

beinc: seldom at a o-reater distance than four or 

hvc miles from the land, till we came oppo.sitc to 

a small town called Villa Franca. Here, as the 

wind threatened to die away, several others and 

mvself a<rreed to 2:0 on shore : a boat was accord- 
ed o 

ingly lowered, and we pushed ofl' from the ship ; 
but the operation of landing did not prove to be 
altogether so simple as we had expected. An 
immense reef of roclvs, some under water, others 
barely above it, but none distinguishable till we 
had almost run against them, opposed our pro- 
gress ; and it was not without considerable dif- 
ficulty, and the assistance of the country people, 
who made siu:nals to us from the beach, that we 
contrived to discover a narrow channel leading 
up to the strand. 

Havinfr at length so far attained our wislies as 
to tread once more upon firm ground, the next 



46 VILLA FRANCA. [CH. 

thing to be done was to find out some inn, or 
house of public entertainment, where we might 
pass the night, a measvire which the increasing 
darkness rendered necessary. In this, however, 
we were disappointed, the town of Villa Franca 
boasting of no such convenience on any scale. 
But we were not on that account obliged to bi- 
vouac ; for the Alcalde, or mayor of the place, 
'politely insisted upon our accompanying him 
home, and entertained us with great hospitality ; 
nor, in truth, had we any cause to regret the un- 
successful issue of our inquiries, since, in addition 
to the good cheer with which we were presented, 
our host, being an intelligent person, did not fail 
to render himself an agreeable companion ; and 
what contributed in no sli2:ht deOTee to the faci- 
lity of our intercourse was, that though he assured 
us he had never quitted St. Michael's in his life, 
he spoke English with the fluency of a native. 
Among other pieces of information, we learnt 
from him that the reef which impeded our pro- 
gress towards the land, had formerly been an 
island. It appeared, he affirmed, one morning, 
in the most sudden and extraordinary manner, 
as if it had been thrown up by an earthquake 
during the night, and having continued so long 
above water as to embolden a single family of 
fishers to settle upon it, it disappeared again as 



i 



IV.] VILLA FRANCA. -H 

siuklenly as it had come, loiivini;- no trace of its 
c\istunL-e, except (he rocks which we had toinid 
so troublesome. Wlietlier tliere ])e truth in (liis 
story, 1 cannot ])retend to determine ; and yet I 
see no reason to doubt the word of a man of re- 
spectability, who could have no motive whatever 
for deceiving us. But this was not all that we 
learnt from him respectin<j^ the reef lb' de- 
clared, that previous to the appearance of the 
island, the water in that very spot was unfathom- 
able ; and it was not till after it had sunk, that 
a single rock stood in the way to prevent the 
largest ship of war from anchoring within a 
stones throw of the beach. 

Finding our new acquaintance so civil and 
obliging, we naturally inibrmed him of our inten- 
tion to proceed next morning to Ponto del Gada, 
the principal town in St. jNIichaefs, and rec[uested 
his assistance in procuring some mode of convey- 
ance; but we wxn'e startled by the intelligence, 
that nothing of the kind could be had, and that 
there were not even horses or mules to be hired 
at any place nearer than the very town whither 
we were going. This was rather an alarming 
piece of news, for our boat had left us, tlie 
weather was too hot for walking, and the dis- 
tance to be travelled full fifteen miles. Had we 
been prudent enough to detain our boat, the 



48 VILLA. FRANCA. [CH. i 

matter would have been easily managed, because j 
we might have sailed round to the point where i 
the fleet was to anchor ; but this was no longer \ 
in our power, and being rather unmlling to i 
pursue our journey on foot, we were altogether ' 
at a loss upon what course to determine. Whilst | 
we thus hesitated, the Alcalde suggested, that ; 
if we would condescend to ride upon asses he i 
thought he could obtain a sufficient number for i 
our party ; a proposal with which we gladly ^ 
closed, prudently determining that any mode of i 
beino^ carried was better than walldnsf. Leaving ' 
the arrangement of this affair, therefore, to our \ 
obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean \ 
comfortable mattresses spread for us on the floor ; i 
and, on waking in the morning, we found that he | 
had not been negligent in the charge assigned ! 
to him. Our party consisted of five officers, ! 
with five servants, for whose accommodation we | 
found ten asses at the door, each attended by its | 
driver, who wielded a long pole tipped with an i 
iron spike, for the purpose of goading the animal ' 
whenever it should become lazy. \ 

It was not without a good deal of laughing, that j 
the cavalcade, after bidding adieu to the hospita- { 
ble Mayor, began to move forward. Our asses, ' 
of no larger size than ordinary English donkeys, : 
were uncaparisoncd, at least with bridles ; and j 



IV.] VILLA IKANCA. 49 

the saddles were neither more nor k^ss Ihaii the 
pack-saddles upon which (]^oods are transported to 
market. For our own comfort, therefore, we were 
obliged to sit^, a lafimelln, and liavini^ no com- 
mand over the heads of our steeds, we were con- 
tent to be guided by the hallooing and ])uncliing 
of the drivers. In spite, however, of these incon- 
veniences, if so they may be called, I shall never 
cease to congratulate myself on having been of 
the party, because the ride proved to be one of 
the most agreeable I remember at any time to 
have taken. 

The road from Villa Franca to Ponto del Gada 
quits the water's edge, and turns, for a little way, 
inland, carrying you through a region as romantic 
and beautiftd as can well be imairined. There arc 
here no level plains, no smooth paths over which 
a landau or tilbury might glide, but, on the con- 
trary, a rugged and stony track, sometimes lead- 
ing down the face of steep hills, sometimes scaling 
heights which at the distance of a mile appear to 
be almost perpendicular, and sometimes winding 
along the side of a cliff, and by the edge of a fear- 
ful precipice. Except when you reach the sum- 
mit of a mountain, the road is in general shaded 
by the richest underwood, hanging over it from 
above; but the whole aspect of the country is 
decidedly that of a volcanic production : the rocks 

D 



50 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

seem to have been cast up and torn asunder by 
some prodigious violence, and hurled by a force 
which nothing but a volcano could possess^ into 
the most grotesque and irregular shapes. It is 
no uncommon tiling to pass under a huge crag, 
leaning almost horizontally over the road, and 
bedded in the earth by a foundation apparently 
so slight, as to appear liable to fall every moment, 
precipitating the enormous mass upon the luck- 
less wretch beneath. Nay, the very colour of the 
stones, and the quantity of what bears every re- 
semblance to vitrification, scattered about, all tend 
to induce the belief, that the main island owes 
its formation to the same cause which doubtless 
produced the smaller one, that has now disap- 
peared. 

It is not, however, to be inferred from the above 
description, that St. Michael's is nothing but a 
barren rock; far from it. There is, indeed, in 
tliis direction, at least, a fair proportion of that 
commodity ; but tracts of cultivated ground are 
not therefore wanting. I should not certainly 
suppose that the soil was remarkably rich in any 
part of the island ; but it produces the fig, the 
orange tree, and a grape from which the inhabi- 
tants make very tolerable wine; and there is 
excellent pasture for sheep, and a competent 
supply of grain. But that in which the Azores, 



IV.] ST. MICHAELS. .•)I 

and St. Michael's among- tlic number, ])avliciil;irly 

excel, is the extreme salubrity of the cHmate. 

Lying in nearly the same degree of latituilc witli 
Lisbon, the intense heat which oppresses in that 
city, is here alleviated by refreshing sea-breezes ; 
by which means, tliough I believe there is no 
occasion at any season to complain of cold, it 
is only in the very height of the dog-days, if 
then, that a person, not actually engaged in 
violent exercise, is justified in complaining of 
sultriness. 

The trade of St. Michaers, as far as I could 
learn, is confined exclusively to fruit: tiie fn*- 
and the orange are the staple commodities, and 
being both very abundant, they are, of course, 
proportionably cheap. Into the piMi.^e of a St. 
Michael's orange, it is unnecessary for me to 
enter, because it is generally allowed to be the 
best with which the English market is supplied; 
but of the excellence of the St. Michael's fio-, I 
am not sure that my countrymen in general are 
so much aware. It might be, that not liaving 
seen a fig for a considerable lapse of time, my 
appetite was peculiarly sharpened towards its 
good qualities, but it struck me that I ne\er be- 
fore tasted any so highly llavoured or so delicate. 
Besides these, they sell to vessels putting in. as 
we did;, for water, some of the wine made in this 



d2 



52 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

and the neiglibouring islands; but the quantitj^ 
thus disposed of, must be too inconsiderable to 
entitle it to be classed among the articles of mer- 
chandise. 

I find, however, that I am entering upon sub- 
jects in which I am but little versed, and digress- 
ing from my narrative. Let me return, then, to 
self, that beloved idol of all travellers, and state, 
that after we had ridden about six miles, the road, 
which had hitherto conducted us along a narrow 
glen, where the vision was intercepted on both 
sides, now carried us to the summit of a lofty 
mountain, from whence we enjoyed the satisfac- 
tion of an extensive prospect, both of the sea and 
of the interior. Looking towards the former, we 
beheld our own fleet bearing down majestically 
upon Ponto del Gada, and fast approaching the 
anchorage. Turning our eyes inland again, we 
were delighted with a view of mountain and val- 
ley, rock and culture, wood and pasturage, inter- 
mingled in the most exquisite degree of irregu- 
larity ; but what principally attracted our attention, 
was a thick dark smoke rising slowly from the 
summit of a high hill that bounded the prospect. 
Our curiosity being excited by this phenomenon, 
we inquired from our guides into its cause, and 
were informed that the mountain in question was 
a volcano, and that, at its base, and along its 



I 



IV.] ST. MlCIIAKl/s. 53 

sides, were hot springs oi' w;iter, of a tein])era<urc 
sufficient to Loil an egg in tluee minutes. 'I'liis 
piece of intelligence conlirmed nie in my former 
opinion relative to the operative cause in the ])ro- 
duction of these islands ; thougli, indeed, had 
such evidence been wanting, I should have ecpudly 
concluded, either that they were thrown up, in 
their present form, from the bottom of tlie sea, or 
at least that they were torn asunder from one 
another by the force of lire. It must be confessed, 
however, that mine is the opinion of one who has 
devoted little of his attention to geology ; but 1 
would by all means advise the disciples of Werner 
to come hither, if they desire further helps in tlie 
prosecution of that very interesting and practi- 
cally useful study. 



54 [cH. 



CHAPTER V. 

Descending the mountain, on which we had 
paused for a few minutes, to feast our e3'es and 
satisfy our curiosity, we arrived at a small hamlet, 
or rather a group of two or three hovels, as roman- 
tically situated as it is possible for the imagination 
of man to conceive. They stood at the further end 
of a sort of recess, formed by the hills, which are 
here broken into a circular valley, cut off, to all 
appearance, from the rest of the habitable world ; 
behind them rose a towering crag, as perpendicular 
as the drop of a plummet, from the top of which a 
little rivulet came tumbling down, giving to the 
scene an appearance of the most delightful cool- 
ness, and amusing the ear with the unceasing roar 
of a v/aterfall. From the very face of the cliff", 
where there seemed to be scarcely soil enough to 
nourish a thistle, numerous shrubs and dwarf trees 
protruded themselves, whilst above it, and on every 
side of the area, the hills were covered with wood, 
interrupted now and then by the bald forehead of 



v.] ST. mipiiakl's. 55 

a blackened rock. In front of the lianilct a^ain, 
there was an opening siiflicient to admit the most 
delicious i»;limpse of the ocean ; and tln*oii<;li this 
the stream, after boiling for awhile in a littk* basin, 
whicli it has excavated for itself out of wluit re- 
sembles the foundation of the clifl', makes its way, 
brawling over a clear })ebbly bottom, till it joins 
the sea. 

This paragon of valleys burst upon us as such 
scenes, to be witnessed with advantage, ought to 
do, without the slightest warning or expectation. 
The road by which we approached it, being com- 
pletely shut in with wood, and winding consider- 
ably to aid the descent, brought us out nearly at 
he G'orire of the vale, so as to throw the hamlet, 
the cliff, and the waterfall, into the background; 
and, as the wdiolc was of such extent as to be taken 
in at one glance, the effect was striking l)eyond 
anything of the kind I ever witnessed. It is but 
natural to suppose that we had no desire to hurry 
through such a glen as this ; and needed not the 
additional motive which the weariness of our don- 
keys afforded, to persuade us to a temporary halt. 
Givino; the animals, therefore, to the care of their 
owners, we dismounted, and went into .some of the 
cabins, the inhabitants of which ai)peared to be as 
simple as the situation of their abodes had prepared 
us to expect. The men were all goatherds, and 



56 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

the women seemed to be as idle as their country- 
women in Portugal, sitting at the doors of their 
houses, surrounded by groups of half-naked and 
filthy -looking children. If it be fair to judge from 
their dress, and the furniture of their hovels, they 
were miserably poor, though perfectly contented ; 
they did not ask us for money, but astonished, 
I suppose, at the glaring colour of our coats, they 
were very inquisitive to know who we Avere, and 
whence we had come. The English, the French, 
and the Portuguese, seemed to be the only three 
nations of whose existence they had any know- 
ledge; and having been assured, in answer to their 
first question, that we were not French, they imme- 
diately added, then you must be English. They 
did not appear, however, to be without some de- 
gree of cunning, for as long as we paused in re- 
plying to their query, they were silent ; but no 
sooner had we answered in the negative, than 
they launched forth into the most violent invec- 
tives against the French; convincing us, that the 
animosity of the mother-country towards its bar- 
barous invaders, was not more implacable than 
that of the colonies. 

Having loitered away half an hour in this ro- 
mantic spot, and distributed a few dollars among 
its inhabitants, we remounted our steeds, and con- 
tinued our journey. The remainder of the ride 



v.] ST. miciiai:l*s. 57 

carried us tliroiigli scenery very similar to wluit 
we had already- passed ; the only dillerencLMvas, 
that the nearer we approached to Ponto del Ciuda, 
the more frequent became the spots of cultivation, 
tlie width and smootlmess of the road impruvinj; 
in proportion; till, at last, when we had attained 
the brow of an eminence, from whence the town 
with its port and bay were distinguishahle, wc 
looked down upon an extensive valley, richly 
covered with fields of standing corn. (Quickening 
our pace, we soon entered the capital of St. Mi- 
cliaeFs, and were conducted by the tlriver.s to a 
good hotel, kept by an Englishwonuui of the 
name of Currie, where we found every acconnno- 
dation wliich wc could desire, at a very moderate 
expense. 

As wc had started at an early hour from A'illa 
Franca, the clocks were just striking ten, when 
wc alighted at Mrs. Curries hotel; consequently, 
there was a long day yet before us, in which wc 
might sec everything that was to be seen in the 
place. Having discharged our muleteers, there- 
fore, who seemed overjoyed at the receipt of one 
dollar a-piece, swallowed a hasty breakfast, and 
made ourselves somewhat comfortable, we lost no 
time in setting out upon a stroll of examination 
and discovery. 

Ponto del Gada is, on the whole, rather a neat 

D 5 



58 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

town, containing from twelve to fourteen thousand 
inhabitants ; but being built, especially in the out- 
skirts, without much regard to compactness, it 
covers more ground than many places of double 
the amount in population. It stands upon a little 
bay, formed by two projecting headlands, and can 
boast of a tolerable harbour and excellent road- 
stead. In its immediate vicinity the country is 
more uniformly level than any I had yet observed; 
the vale extending to the distance of four or five 
miles on every side, and ending in an amphitheatre 
of low green hills, which resemble, in appearance, 
the downs as they are seen from Eastbourne, in 
Sussex. The wdiole of this flat is in a state of 
high cultivation, being cleared, perhaps, too com- 
pletely, of wood, and portioned off into differ- 
ent fields and parks by hedges and stone walls. 
Judging from the appearance of the crops, I 
should conceive that the soil was here of some 
depth, as well as fertility ; the whole valley being 
covered with wdieat, barley, and Indian corn. 
And in truth, if the aspect of the country beyond 
the downs, w^here rocks tower one above another 
in rude and barren grandeur, furnish a legitimate 
criterion by which to determine respecting the 
general fertility of the island, I should be almost 
tempted to believe that the whole industrj^ of its 
people has been expended upon this spot, simply 



v.] ST. Michael's. 59 

because it was the only one ('a])al)le of rewarclingf 
it. 1 was assured, liowever, by tlie natives, that 
such is not the case; and that, in tlie interior, and 
towards the opposite coast, tlie ru<>'<ied mai^nifi- 
cencc of mountain scenery gives place to a more 
profitable, though less pictures(|ue clianipaign. 

The principal streets of Ponto del (iada are 
paved, and kept at once cool and clean by a con- 
stant sprinkling of water, which it is the business 
of two or three men stationed at pumps within a 
certain distance of one anotlier, to scatter over 
them. Of the bye streets little can be said in 
praise, they being, like those of other Portuguese 
towns, composed of mean cottages, unpaved, and 
extremely dirty. There is, however, an air of 
elegance given to the town, particularly when 
looked at from a distance, by the intermixture of 
oranire irroves amon<>: the houses; the largest of 
these, wherever they happen to stand, being, in 
general, surrounded by extensive gardens, all of 
-which are abundantly stocked with that graceful 
and odoriferous plant. Add to this the number 
of tow^ers and spires with which its numerous 
churches and convents are supplied, and the lirst 
aspect of the whole may be conceived to be ex- 
tremely strildng and imposing. 

As soon as we had taken a hurried survey of 
the streets, the next object of attention was the 



60 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

religious houses. In these, there was but little to 
admire, the architecture being of the plainest kind, 
and even the chapels as much wanting in ornament 
as can be imagined. There were, indeed, in most 
of them, some trifling attempts at carved work and 
gilding upon the roof, a little stained glass, neither 
rich nor ancient, in the windows, and a few tawdry 
pictures suspended above the altars; but the gene- 
ral appearance was decidedly that of buildings 
which did not even aim at beauty or grandeur. 
The monks we found a good-natured, obliging set 
of men, very willing to give us any information in 
their power ; by one of whom we were fortunate 
enouiifh to be conducted throuorh a convent of Au- 
gustine friars. Into their mode of living it is not 
to be supposed that we could obtain much insight. 
It seemed, however, to be less indolent than that 
of some convents, which we had visited in the old 
country, and approached proportion ably nearer to 
a college life among ourselves ; though it must be 
admitted that the fellows and under-graduates of 
Oxford and Cambridge have a better notion of 
both comfort and elegance, than the Augustine 
friars of St. Michael's. Of the nuns, we of course 
saw nothing, excepting through the grates. We 
found them full of curiosity, and eager to know as 
much as they could learn of the world from which 
they were excluded; but quite as fond of flirting 



v.] ST. Michael's. (31 

as any set of youni;' ladies at a l)oardin«;-scho()l. 
It was amusing to observe their mode of l»eti,i::iiig 
for all the nuns in this part of the wuiKl are 
licensed beggars. The younger and fairer mem- 
bers of the sisterhood came to the grate first; 
chatted, sung, and presented us witli artiiicial 
flowers, and then retiring, made way for tlie old 
and the ugly, who requested a little money for the 
irood of our souls and their bodies. To solicita- 
tions thus expressed, it was im])ossiblo to turn a 
deaf ear, and the consequence was, that we soon 
discovered it to be quite as expensive an amuse- 
ment to flirt with a nun, as with any other belle in 
London or elsewhere. 

Besides the churches and convents, amounting 
in all to not fewer than nine, there is a fort 
erected for the protection of the harbour, which wc 
likewise endeavoured to see, but were prevented 
by the sentinel at the gate, who refused us ad- 
mittance. The disappointment, however, was not 
great, as it was easy to perceive, from its outward 
appearance, that the fort could possess few ])oints 
worthy of observation ; and, indeed, we attributed 
the reluctance evinced, in admitting strangers, to 
its utter uselessness as a place of defence. 

To describe all this occupies but a small ])or- 
tion of time ; but to see it was the laborious em- 
ployment of an entire day. Wearied out at lenglii 



62 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

with my exertions, and not feeling much rewarded, 
at least for the latter part of my trouble, I re- 
turned in the evening to the hotel, where, as 
the ships were still at anchor taking on board 
water and fresh provisions, I ventured to spend 
the night. 

Having thus discovered that there was little in 
the works of art, and a great deal in those of 
nature, throughout St. Michael's, to interest the 
traveller, a friend and myself determined to set off 
next morning on a visit to the volcano. With this 
design we ordered asses, for asses are the only 
animals for hire, to be in readiness by day-break ; 
and finding them in waiting at the time appointed, 
we took a guide Avith us and pushed forAvard in 
the direction of the dark smoke. The mountain 
with its crater being distinctly visible from Ponto 
del Gada, we took it for granted that the distance 
between the two places could not exceed twelve 
or fourteen miles ; but, on inqiiiring of our guide, 
we learned that the nearest road would carry us 
at least twenty-seven miles from the town. This 
was at once a startling and unpleasant piece of 
intelligence, affecting our arrangements in no tri- 
fling degree. To proceed was dangerous, because, 
mounted as we were, to go and return in one clay 
was impossible ; and, if we remained so far from 
the shipping during the night, the fleet might 



v.] ST. MICHAKl/s. 63 

sail before we sliould be able to get back. On 
the other hand, to c^ive up our design, and quit a 
country where a volcano was to be seen, witliout 
seeing it, appeared rather a mortifying ])r()S])ect. 
After weiii'hins: for a few minutes the cliances on 
both sides, — I shall not say with the utmost im- 
partiality, curiosity iinally prevailed over a])])re- 
hension ; and, in order to prevent any i'l.irther 
repentance and consequent change of mind, we 
put our donkeys into a gallop, and hurried on as 
fast as they could carry us. But the speed of 
the asses and our own venturous determination 
proved, after all, equallv unavailing; for, on gain- 
ing the sununit of the downs, and looking back 
upon the fleet, we beheld, to our great sorrow, the 
signal for sailing displayed at the tojmiasts of all 
the ships. Mortified at our disappointment, and 
at the same time rejoicing that we liad got no 
further on our journey, w^e were compelled to turn 
our asses' heads, and to retrace our steps towards 
Ponto del Gada, where we found everything in 
the bustle and confusion of a re-embarkation. 
The beach w^as covered with sailors, soldiei's. bul- 
locks, and casks of fresh water, hurrvini;-. and 
being hurried, indiscriminately into the boats 
which had arrived to take them off. Tlu» towns- 
people were running about upon the strand, some 
offering their skiffs to convey the officers on board 



64 ST. Michael's. [ch. 

the ships, some helping to swing the bullocks into 
the barges, and others shouting and hallooing ap- 
parently from the disinterested love of noise. In 
short, it was a scene of great liveliness and bustle, 
perhaps rather too much so to be agreeable. 

Seeing this universal eagerness to reach the 
fleet, we, like the rest, threw ourselves into the 
first boat we could approach, and in a short time 
found ourselves on board our own ship. But here 
a very tantalizing piece of intelligence awaited us, 
for -we learnt that, in spite of all this show of pre- 
paration, the admiral had not begun to weigh 
anchor; and that no intention of moving Avas 
entertained, at soonest, before the morrow. The 
opportunity, however, was lost ; it could not be re- 
covered, and we were obliged to submit as cheer- 
fully as we could, though it was hupossible to help 
regretting, what had at first been a source of con- 
solation, the circumstance of our having caught 
a vievv' of the signal at the time we did. But, as 
the event proved, all had turned out for the best ; 
for on the day following the signal was again re- 
peated ; and by way of giving additional weight 
to it, the admiral began to shake loose his top- 
sails. Nor did it prove, like that of yesterday, 
a false alarm. By mid-day, the victualling and 
watering being complete, the fleet immediately 
began to get under weigh ; and, as the wind blew 



k 



v.] AT SKA. n.") 

fair and fresh, before dark llie mountains of St. 
Micliacrs could be seen only like a thin vapour 
in tlie sky. Next mornino;, nothing' l)i.t tlie old 
prospect of air and water met the gaze, as we 
stood our course, at a rapid rate, towards Ber- 
muda. 

The voyage from St. Michaefs to Bermuda 
occupied the space of almost an entire month, the 
first having been lost sight of on the 27th of June, 
and it being the 24th of July before the low shores 
of the last could be discerned. It was, however, 
a passage of more interest, and productive of more 
variety than that from Bourdeaux to the Azores. 
AVe had now arrived within the intluence of the 
tropical climate, and were not un frequently amused 
•with water-spouts, and other phenomena peculiar 
to warm regions. The flying fish, likewise, and 
its pursuer the dolphin, afforded at least some- 
thing to look at ; whilst many idle hours were 
whiled away in attempts to catch, or strike the 
latter with harpoons. In these we were nut al- 
ways unsuccessful, consequently we enjoyed se- 
veral opportunities of watching the change of 
colour which that fish undergoes whilst it is dying; 
and though the description generally given of it 
is certainly indebted in some degree to tb.e ima- 
gination of voyagers, I must confess that the 
transitions from blue to purple, and from purple 



i 

66 AT SEA. [CH. 

to green, mtli all their intermediate shades, are 
extremely beautiful. When the fish is in the 
water, it is by no means remarkable for brilliancy 
of hue, and as soon as it is dead it returns to its 
original colour — a dingy sea-green ; but whilst it 
is floundering and flapping upon the deck, it is 
impossible to say what is its real appearance, so 
many, and so different are the hues which it as- 
sumes. Nor did we escape without the occasional 
occurrence of a less agreeable species of variety ; 
I mean squalls, thunder-storms, and whirhvinds. 
As we approached Bermuda, indeed, these be- 
came too frequent to excite any interest beyond 
an earnest desire that they would cease ; but 
while we Avere yet a good way off", and the incident 
rare, they were witnessed with more of admiration 
than terror. 

Besides these amusements with which nature 
supplied us, we were not backward in endeavour- 
ing to amuse ourselves. Being now pretty well 
accustomed to the atmosphere of a ship, we began 
to consider ourselves at home, and to give balls 
and other public entertainments through the fleet. 
One of these I shall take leave to describe, be- 
cause I am sure it must interest from its novelty. 

On the 19th of July, at an early hour in the 
morning, a signal was made from the Royal Oak, 
that the admiral would be happy to see the officers 



v.] AT SEA. 67 

of tlic fleet on board his ship tliat eveniiin;. Boats 
were according-ly sent off from llie (lifferent ves- 
sels, loaded with visitors; and, on niountiiin- the 
gangway, a stage, with a green curtain heforc 
it, was discovered upon the quarter deck. The 
whole of the deck, from the poop to tlie main- 
mast, was hung round with flags, so as to form 
a moderate sized theatre; and the carronadcs 
were removed from their port-holes, in order to 
make room for the company. Lam])s were sus- 
pended from all parts of the rigging and shrouds, 
casting a brilliant light upon this singular play- 
house ; and the crew, arrayed in their best attire, 
crowded the booms, yards, and fore part of the 
deck ; whilst the space from the mainmast to the 
foot of the stage was set with benches for the 
more genteel part of the audience. 

At seven o'clock the curtain drew up, and dis- 
covered a scene painted with such taste, as would 
not have disgraced any theatre in London. The 
play was the " Apprentice," with the " Mayor of 
Garret" as an afterpiece, performed by the offi- 
cers of the ship, and of the artillery, and went otf 
in high style, applauded as it deserved to be 
applauded, with the loudest acclamations. The 
quarter-deck of a British line-of-batfle shi]) lias 
often enouo'h been a staire for the exhibition of 
bloody tragedies, but to witness a comedy and a 



68 AT SEA. [CH 

farce upon that stage, and in the middle of the 
Atlantic ocean, was delightful from its very sin- 
gularity. When the performance came to an 
end, the stage was knocked down, the seats re- 
moved, and everything cleared for dancing. The 
music was excellent, being composed of the Land 
of the Hoyal Oak ; and the ball was opened by 
Admiral Malcolm and the Honourable Mrs. Mul- 
lens, in a country dance, followed by as many 
couples as the space would permit; the gi'eatcr 
number of officers dancing, as necessity required, 
with one another. In this amusement every per- 
son, from the admiral and general, down to the 
youngest ensign and midshipman, joined, laying 
aside, for the time, all restraint or form of dis- 
cipline ; and having kept it up with great spirit 
till considerably beyond midnight, a blue light 
Avas hoisted as a signal for the different boats to 
come off for the strangers, and each returned to 
his own ship highly gratified with the evening's i 
entertainment. 



:* ( 



VI.] 69 



CHxVPTER VI. 

By employing ourselves in this manner, and by- 
keeping up what is emphatically called a good 
heart, we contrived to pass our time agreeably 
enough. As often as the weather would permit, 
and the fleet lay well together, we made parties 
of pleasure to the different ships ; when the wind 
I was too high, and the fleet too much scattered 
for such proceedings, we remained at home, and 
amused ourselves in the best way we could. 
Some of the captains, and ours among the num- 
ber, were possessed of very tolerable libraries, 
the doors of which they politely threw open for 
the benefit of their mihtary guests ; and tluis, 
by reading, fishing, and boating, we were enabled 
to make head, with some success, against the 
encroachments of ennui. It must be confessed, 
however, that in spite of strenuous efforts to the 
contrary, that determined enemy of all idle per- 
sons, was beginning to gain ground upon us, 
when, about mid-day on the 21th of duly, a cry 
of land was heard from the mast-head. All eyes 



70 BERMUDA. [CH 

were immediately turned in the direction to which 
the sailor pointed, and as the wind blew fair, and 
moderately fresh, no great length of time elapsed 
before the same object w^as distinguishable from 
the deck. A signal was immediately hoisted for 
a pilot, who lost no time in coming off to us ; and 
before dark we were at anchor opposite to the 
tanks in Bermuda. 

The appearance of Bermuda is altogether as 
different from that of St. Michael's, as one thing 
can be from another. AVliilst the last, with its 
lofty mountains and bold shores, can be seen at 
the distance of many leagues, a ship must be 
within a few miles of the first before the slight- 
est symptom of land is discernible. On this 
account it is, that mariners find greater diffi- 
culty in making Bermuda, than perhaps any 
other island or continent in the known world ; 
the most experienced seaman frequently sailing 
past it, and not a few suffering shipwreck every 
year, upon its numerous shoals and rocks. For 
not only is the land itself low, and thus apt to 
be run against by vessels wliich may have ap- 
proached in stormy weather, too near to put 
about, but for many miles round, reefs of sunken 
rocks stretch out into the sea in every direc- 
tion; insomuch, that even the approach to the 
principal anchorage is no more than a narrow 



VI.] IJERMUDA. 71 

channel between two reel's, in many ]>hiccs scarcely 
exceeding a mile, or a mile and a hall' in width. 
The navio^ation, even in calm weather, is tliere- 
forc attended with considerable danuer; tlio idea 
of which is greatly heightened by the remark- 
able clearness of the water, and the peculiar 
brightness of the rocks. In some ydaces this is 
so much the case, that the bottom may be seen at 
the depth of six or seven fathoms : whilst the 
aspect of the reefs Mhich lie on each side, as you 
steer towards the anchorage, is such, as almost to 
persuade you, contrary to the evidence of reason, 
that a man might leap upon them from a boat, 
without incurring the danger of being wet above 
the knees. Yet these very reefs are seldom 
covered with less than six, and sometimes with 
fourteen and fifteen feet of water. 

Low as they are, the shores of Bermuda arc 
nevertheless extremely beautiful. They are co- 
vered with cedar, a tree which here, at least, 
seldom exceeds the height of twenty feet, and 
from which, before the sun has risen, and after he 
has set, the land breeze comes loaded with the 
most delicious perfume. Under the wood there 
grows a rich short turf, apparently struggling to 
spread itself over the chalky rocks, of which the 
entire island, or rather islands, seem to be com- 
posed; and, as the houses of the better orders 



1 



72 BERMUDA. [CH. 

arc cliiefly built witliin reach of the cool air from 
the water, they, with their little lawns and gar- 
dens, produce a lively and pleasing- effect. 

As darkness had come on before the ship could 
be properly moored, no boats were permitted to 
leave her that night ; but at an early hour next 
morning, I embraced the first opportunity of going 
on shore. To reach St. George's, the capital of 
the colony, you are obliged to row, for several 
miles, up a narrow frith called the ferry, imme- 
diately on entering which, the scenery becomes in 
the liighest degree picturesque. Though still re- 
taining its character of low, the ground on each 
side looks as if it were broken into little swells, 
the whole of them beautifully shaded with groves 
of cedar, and many of them crowned with country 
houses, as Avhite as the drifted snow. But the 
fact is, that this appearance of hill and dale is 
owing to the prodigious nvimber of islands which 
compose the cluster ; there being, in all, according 
to vulgar report, not fewer than three hundred and 
sixty-five ; of w^hich the largest exceeds not seven 
or eight miles in diameter. Yet it is only when 
you follow what at first you are inclined to mistake 
for a creek, or the mouth of a river, that you dis- 
cover the absence of valleys from between these 
hills ; and even then you are more apt to fancy 
yourself upon the bosom of a lake studded with 



VI.] BERMUDA. 73 

islets, than steering amid spots ol' carlli wliicli 
stand, each of them distinct, in the middle of the 
Atlantic Ocean. 

In the town of St. George's, there is nothing 
to be seen at all worthy of record. It consists of 
about fifty or sixty houses, the glare from wliich, 
as they are all built of the chalk-stone, is ex- 
tremely dazzhng to the eyes. It is called tlic 
capital, because here the court-house stands, and 
the magisterial sittings are lield ; but in point of 
size, and, as far as I could learn, in every other 
respect, it is greatly inferior to Hamilton, another 
town at the opposite extremity of the cluster, 
wdiich I did not Adsit. A little way from St. 
George's, and on the summit of a bare rock, 
stand the barracks, fitted up for the accommo- 
dation of a thousand men ; and about a mile and 
a half beyond them are the tanks, well wortli the 
notice of travellers. The object of this work is to 
catch and preserve the rain, — a measure wliich 
the total deficiency of fresh springs throughout 
the colony renders absolutely necessary. There 
are, indeed, wells dug upon the beach, but the 
^vater in these is nothing more than sea-water, 
filtered and rendered brackish in making its way 
through the sand, and by no means iit to be 
used, at least, in any quantity. To supply this 
deficiency, the bad effects of which were experi- 

B 



74 BERMUDA. [CH. 

enced in the unhealtliiness of many of the crews 
upon the American station, government was in- 
duced to build these tanks; consequently the 
water contained in them is the property of the 
king, and none but king's ships, with the troops 
in garrison, are permitted, except in extreme 
cases, to be supplied from thence. 

The climate of Bermuda has been extolled by 
many, and among the rest by Mr. Moore in his 
odes and epistles, as salubrious and delightful. 
It is possible that he, and the rest of its eulogists, 
may have visited these islands at a season of the 
year different from that in which I visited them, 
but to me the heat was beyond measure oppres- 
sive. Lying, as they do, under the influence of a 
vertical sun, and abounding in all directions with 
cliffs of white chalk, it is obvious that the constant 
reflection of the sun's rays thereby occasioned 
must be quite overpowering. If these panegyrists 
mean to say, that as long as you contrive to keep 
in the shade, and take care not to stir abroad till 
after sunset, you will find the Bermudas deserving 
of their title of summer-islands, then I will agree 
with them ; but I believe there is no man who ever 
walked the street of St. George's at noon, or any 
other spot where the sun-beams could reach him, 
that did not consider the heat as anything rather 
than temperate. 



VI.] BERMUDA, 75 

But whatever may be tliounjit of tin- climate, 
there can, I think, be but one opinion as to the 
soih It is generally admitted, tlial tlierc is no 
more unproductive spot of eartli upon \\w liice of 
the deep, than Bermuda. Tlie only animals wliich 
appear to thrive are the goat and the duck ; the 
cedar and a few calabash trees are the only wood, 
and, except the most common kinds of vegetables, 
such as cabbages, onions, and sweet potatoes, I 
know of hardly another thing brought to perfec- 
tion, even in the gardens. The friuts which a 
stranger may meet with arc no doubt delicious, 
since among them he will find the shaddock and 
the pine-apple ; but for these, as well as for almost 
all their other comforts and luxuries, the Bernui- 
dians are indebted to the continent of America, or 
to the West Indies. Whether this be owinjr to the 
natural sterility of the soil, or to the extreme in- 
dolence of the inhabitants, I cannot pretend to 
decide ; though I should be inclined to suspect 
that both were, in some degree, to blame ; but its 
consequences are felt by all visiters, in a very 
sensible manner, every article of living being here 
sold for thrice its intrinsic value. Tliat provisions 
should be dear in this country cannot suri)risc, 
when it is considered that this small colony is 
the general depot and place of resort for repairs 
and stores to a large proportion of the British 

E 2 



76 BERMUDA. [CH. 

navy, scattered along the coast of America ; but, 
surely, if the natives were a little more indus- 
trious, they might afford to sell their goods at 
a cheaper rate, and at the same time secure an 
equal, if not a greater profit. But their indo- 
lence is beyond all conception, and can be attri- 
buted only to, what I believe is its real cause, 
the facility with which they acquire fortunes, 
from men who are necessitated to give whatever 
they demand for the most trifling article. The 
poorest and meanest freeman upon the island 
never dreams of applying his own hand, or even 
his own head, to the cultivation of the ground; 
and being abundantly supplied with negro slaves, 
they leave everything, even the care of providing 
necessaries for themselves, to the industry of that 
Ill-used race. I may perhaps be considered as 
expressing myself with too much severity towards 
the Bermudians, but, in truth, I repeat only what 
I was told by some of themselves ; nor did I, from 
my own personal observation, discover any cause 
to question the veracity of my informers. 

In the praise bestowed by Mr. Moore upon 
the beauty of these regions, I do, however, most 
cordially join. There is something bewitchingly 
pretty, for pretty is perhaps the most appropriate 
epithet to be used, in every one of the many 
views which you may obtain from different points. 



VI.] in.RMlDA. 



I i 



Tlic low and elegant cedar, the green sliort turl", 
the frequent recurrence of the white and dazzhiif 
rock, the continual rise and fall of the numerous 
small islands,, but above all, the constant inter- 
mingling of land and water, seem more like a 
drawing of fairy land than a reality. There is 
nothing grand, nothing imposing, or calculated 
to excite any feeling bordering u])on the awful, 
throughout the whole ; but it is soft, gentle, and 
exquisitely pleasing. 

Having spent the day at St. George's, I returned 
on board to sleep ; and on the morrow removed, 
with my baggage, to a transport then lying at 
anchor within the ferrv, which was thenceforth to 
be my head-quarters. Thither my friend (Jrey 
also removed, and as our ship was well stored, 
and its commander civil and accommodating, wo 
had no reason to complain of any suffering con- 
sequent upon our change of residence. 

It Avill be readily believed that a very small 
portion of our time was now wasted on board 
ship; for economy's sake we usually slept there, 
because at the inn the charge for beds, as well 
as for everything else, was enormous ; but all 
the hours of daylight were devoted to rowing 
round the different islands, and climbing the 
different eminences, from whence the most ex- 
tensive prospects were to be obtained. Among 



78 BERMUDA. [CH. 

other curiosities, we were informed of two caves 
in one of the little isles, distant about four or 
five miles from the place where we lay. Being 
assured that they were highly deserving of notice, 
we determined to visit them ; and setting off one 
evening for that purpose, we reached the spot 
which had been pointed out to us a little before 
dark. We fastened the boat to the stump of a 
tree, and were proceeding towards the caves, 
when a fine manly voice, singing one of the Irish 
melodies, attracted our attention. Being rather 
curious to discover who, in this extramundane 
place, had learnt to sing with so much taste, we 
followed the direction of the sound, till we came 
upon a party sitting under the shade of a tent, 
and like ourselves enjoying the cool of the even- 
ing ; on perceiving us, some of them came for- 
ward, and the satisfaction was mutual, when we 
recognised one another as old acquaintances. 
They urged us to relinquish our design, and to 
partake of their good cheer, with which, as the 
hour was late, we had small reluctance in com- 
plying ; and it was agreed, that instead of going 
on without proper guides, and at so unseason- 
able a time, we should breakfast together at 
the same spot in the morning, and proceed in 
a bodv to examine the caverns. Here, there- 
fore, we remained till the moon had risen, when 



VI.] BERMUDA. 79 

we returned to our boat, and sailed back to the 
ship. 

Next morning everything was prepared for tlie 
expedition, but a heavy squall coming on, ])re- 
vented us from setting out as early as we had in- 
tended ; as soon, however, as this blew over, we 
took to oiir boat, and reached the place of rendez- 
vous in time to share the remains of a good break- 
fast, which our friends had prepared for themselves 
and us. When our meal was finished, we su])plied 
ourselves with torches from some dry branches of 
the calabash tree, and headed by a guide, moved 
towards the mouth of the nearest and larsrest 
of the two caves. We descended into this by a 
ladder of sixteen steps, and arrived u])on a broad 
ledge of rock, where we halted for a few minutes 
to light the torches, and accustom our \'ision to the 
gloom ; when, both of these ends being attained, 
we advanced a few paces into the cave, and a sight 
of the most indescribable sublimity burst upon us. 
The appearance was that of a huge Gothic cathc- 
di'al, having its roof supported upon ])ilhirs of 
spar, moulded into the most regidar shapes, and 
fluted and carved after the most exact models of 
architecture. The roof itself was indeed too lofty 
to be discerned, nor could the eye penetrate to any- 
thing like an extremity, all bevond a certain extent 
being wTapped in the most profound darkness ; 



80 BERMUDA. [CH. 

but the flashes of light which at intervals streamed 
out, as the glare of the torches fell upon pieces of 
spar as clear as crystal, and the deep echo of our 
own voices as we spoke, inspired us with a feeling 
of awe, bordering upon superstition. It is in 
such a situation as this, that the poverty of the 
mightiest monument of human art becomes con- 
spicuous. The most magnificent churches and 
abbeys, with their sculptured pillars and vaulted 
ceilings, were thought of as mean in comparison 
of what was now before us ; indeed, I, for one, 
could not help imagining, that these very churches 
and abbeys had been built in humble imitation of 
this, which looked like a temple reared by some 
beings more powerful than men. It seemed a 
shrine worthy of the genii of old, while yet they 
were in the zenith of their glory, ere they had 
been driven from their thrones and oracles of 
darkness, by the light of Christianity. 

As w^e moved onward, we found the sides of 
the cave gradually narrow^ upon us, and the roof 
become lower and lower. There was, however, a 
continuance of the same fane-like appearance to the 
last, though growing more and more contracted ; 
till, finally, we were compelled to advance one by 
one, and to stoop in order to prevent our heads 
from coming in contact with the rock. We had 
proceeded as far as it was possible to proceed with 



VI.] BERMUDA. 81 

any degree of comfort, and were informed l^y tlie 
guide, that we were upwards of tliree hundred 
yards from the entrance, when we found it expe- 
dient to wheel about, and to return to tlie open 
air. But the effect of so sudden a change, from 
darkness to light, was exceedingly disagreeable ; 
insomuch, that we hastened into the smaller cave, 
as well for the purpose of deferring the moment 
of suffering, as to continue our searcli after the 
sublime. 

The entrance to this cavern is extremely dan- 
gerous, and not to be ventured upon without 
either a trusty guide, or a thorough knowledge 
of the ground. After descending a bidder, nut 
quite. so deep as that which leads into the larger 
cave, we arrived at the brink of a fearful chasm, 
across wliich a flat stone, about two feet in width, 
was laid, connecting the edges by a bridge four 
or five feet in length. To what depth the chasm 
may reach, the guide could not inform us ; but 
that it is considerable, we discovered, by dropping 
a large stone, which we could hear for some time 
as it dashed against the projecting edges of tlie 
rock, and at length splashed, with a tremendous 
echo, into water. The man maintained tluit the 
sea beat under the foundation of the island as far 
as the spot where we now stood, and his story was 
rendered at least probable, by the number of 

e5 



jl 



82 BERMUDA. [CH. 

pools of salt water which we met with in the inte- 
rior of the cave. 

After having visited the larger cavern, tliis 
certainly appeared to disadvantage; though in 
truth, it is in its dimensions onlv, that the one 
can be pronounced inferior to the other. The 
spar is equally clear, and proportionably as abun- 
dant, in both ; the pillars are quite as regularly 
formed ; and the lesser has an advantage over 
its rival in two or three broken columns, which 
give to it the semblance of a temple in ruins. 
There is, also, in this cave, a strange propinquity 
of salt and fi'csh water pools, the situation of two 
of which struck me as peculiarly curious. They 
were divided from each other by a piece of rock 
not much thicker than a man's hand; and yet 
the water from the one tasted as if it had been 
taken from the German Ocean, whilst that from 
the other was as fresh and pleasant as possible. 

We had by this time fully gratified our curio- 
sity, and once more ascended to the world of sun- 
shine, the splendour of which was at first almost 
insupportable. By degrees, however, our eyes 
became accustomed to the change, and recovered 
their original tone, when we separated, each party 
returning to its respective ship in high good hu- 
mour with the day's employment. 

But to dine quietly on board was no longer 



VI.] BERMUDA. 83 

endurable. A tent was accordiiiirly canitMl on 
shore, and having sought out tlie most shady and 
aofreeable nook within a moderate distance of the 
vessel, our dinner was brought thitlier, and we 
spent the evening, as we had done the morning, 
amonii: the works of nature. Here we remained 
till a late hour, talking over tlie adventures of 
the day, and occasionally attempting a bhnd jiecp 
into futurity, till our friend the moon, having 
risen, we again pulled on board by her light, and 
lay down to dream of sparry domes and enchanted 
temples. 



84 [cH. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Some apology is due to the reader, whose atten- 
tion has been thus long withdrawn from other 
and more important matters, to follow the adven- 
tures of an humble individual like myself. The 
fault, however, of which I have been guilty may 
be at once repaired, when I inform him, that on 
our arrival at Bermuda we found Sir Alexander 
Cochrane, in the Tonnant of eighty guns, wait- 
ing to receive us, and to take the command of 
the whole fleet. The secret of our destination 
likewise, which up to that moment had been kept, 
transpired almost as soon as we cast anchor off 
the island ; and it was publicly rumoured that our 
next point of debarkation would be somewhere 
on the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake. Nor 
are these the only interesting public occurrences 
of which no notice has as yet been taken. On 
the 4th of June our little army was reinforced 
by the arrival of the 21st Fusiliers, a fine bat- 
talion, mustering nine hundred bayonets, under 
the command of Colonel Patterson. On the even- 



Vil.] BERMUDA. R5 

ing of the 29th a squadron of four fri<;alcs and 
several transports appeared in the oflhii;, wliich 
by mid-day on the day following were all at an- 
chor in the roads. They proved to be from the 
Mediterranean, having the 21st, 29tli, and ()2n(l 
Regiments on board, of wliich tlie two latter were 
proceeding to join Sir George Prevost's army in 
Canada, whilst the former attached itself to tliat 
under the command of General Ross. By this 
very acceptable reinforcement, our numl)ers were 
increased to upwards of three thousand effect ivc 
men, and a greater confidence in themselves, as 
"well as a better grounded hope of success in wliat- 
ever they might undertake, was at the same time 
given to the troops. 

Having already dwelt sufficiently upon my own 
personal adventures at Bermuda, I shall not waste 
time by a particular detail of the various j)rc])a- 
rations which durinc; this interval were makine: 
throughout the fleet. Stores of provisions, fresli 
water, ammunition, clothing, &c., were provided, 
and magazines for the future supply of the expe- 
dition established ; when, on the 3rd of August, 
all things being complete, the ships once more 
got under weigh, and stood towards America. 

During the whole of this day tlie wind was 
light and unsteady, consequently little progress 
was made, nor did the white rucks of Bermuda 



86 AMERICA. [CH. 

disappear till darkness concealed them ; but to- 
wards morning a fresher and more favourable 
breeze springing up, the rest of the voyage was 
performed in reasonable time, and without the 
occurrence of any incident worthy of notice. The 
heat, indeed, became more and more oppressive 
every day, and the irksomeness of renewed con- 
finement was more sensibly experienced from the 
long holiday which we had enjoyed on shore ; but, 
in other respects, everything returned to its for- 
mer state, till towards evening on the 14th, when 
a signal was made by the Admiral that land was 
in sight. As yet, however, there was no appear- 
ance of it from the deck of our transport, nor, 
for a full half hour, covdd our anxious gaze be 
rewarded by the slightest trace of what it sought; 
but at the end of that time, the low sandy point 
of Cape Charles began to show itself, and we 
rejoiced in the prospect of a speedy release from 
the ennui of a seafaring life. 

The coast of America, at least in this quarter, 
is universally low and uninteresting ; insomuch, 
that for some time before the land itself can be 
discerned, forests of pines appear to rise, as it 
were, out of the water. It is also dangerous 
from the numerous shoals and sandbanks which 
run out in many places to a considerable extent 
into the sea, and which are so formidable that 



VII.] TTIE CnESAPF.AKT. S7 

110 master of a vessel, unless lie chance to be par- 
ticularly well acquainted with the naviii^ation, will 
venture to ap]n'oach after dark. The iU'et was 
accordingly anchored within a few miles of the 
shore, but no sooner had tlu^ day begun to break, 
than the sails were again hoisted, and the ships 
stecrino' under the influence of a leadiiiir wind, 
between the Capes Charles and Henry, stood in 
gallant style up the Chesapeake. 

This noble bay is far too wide, and the land on 
each side too flat, to permit any but an indistinct 
glimpse of the shore from the deck of a vessel 
which keeps well towards the middle. On the 
present occasion we could distinguish nothing, 
on either hand, except the tops of trees, with, 
occasionally, a windmill or a lighthouse ; but the 
view of our own fleet w^as in truth so magni- 
ficent as to prevent any murmuring on that ac- 
count. Immediately on entering, we were joined 
by Admiral Cockburn with three line-of-battlc 
ships, several frigates, and a few sloops of war 
and gun-brigs, by which means the squadron 
could now muster above twenty vessels entitled 
to dis])lay the pendant, besides an ecpial, if not 
a greater number of victuallers and transports. 
Nor were we strengthened by this addition in the 
naval part of the expedition alone. On board 
these ships was embarked a powerful reinforce- 



88 THE CHESAPEAKE. [CH. 

ment for the army, consisting of a battalion of 
seven hundred marines, a hundred negroes lately 
armed and disciplined, and a division of marine 
artillery, so that we could now calculate on land- 
ing a corps of at least four thousand men. The 
spectacle was therefore as agreeable and impos- 
ing as might be ; because we could not help 
remembering that this magnificent fleet was 
sailing in an enemy's bay, and that it was 
filled with troops for the invasion of that ene- 
my's country. Thus, like a snowball, we had 
gathered as we went on, and from having set 
out a mere handful of soldiers, were now become 
an army, formidable as well from its numbers as 
its discipline. 

The shoals and sandbanks which abound on 
the outside of the bay, continue to encumber the 
naviiration after it is entered, and the fleet was 
in consequence compelled to anchor every night. 
This proceeding unavoidably occasioned much 
delay. The first day's sail carried us only to 
the mouth of the James river, and the second 
to the mouth of the Potomac ; but, on both 
occasions we brought up at too great a dis- 
tance from the beach to permit a perfect or dis- 
tinct view of either of these rivers. Opposite 
to the latter, indeed, we remained for a night 
and a considerable part of the following day, and 



11 



VII.] THE PATUXENT. 89 

tlie sky being remarkably clear, wc saw something 
more of it than wc had been able to see ol" tho 
other river. It appeared to be a fine piece of 
water making its way through the centre of huge 
forests, and, though the current is in reality 
strong, flowing on without any apparent motion. 
But it would have been im])ossib]e to trace its 
course, even had wc been nearer to the shore, 
above a few miles, on account of its numerous 
windings, the first of whicli, overshadowed as it is 
with wood, shuts it out from farther observation. 
By continuing here so long, wc had begun to con- 
jecture that a landing somewhere on the banks of 
this river was in contemplation. In this, however, 
we W'Cre deceived, for about one o'clock the fleet 
was again under sail, and moving towards tlic 
Patuxent ; a river wliich empties itself into the 
bay, several miles above the Potomac. 

It was singular enough, that the ships had 
scarcely begun to lift their anchors, when the sky, 
which had hitherto continued clear and serene, be- 
came suddenly darkened, and overcast with heavy 
clouds : and the water, which before had been as 
smooth and bright as a mirror, began to rise in 
black waves tipped with foam, though there was 
not a breath of air to fill the sails. Hurricanes 
are, I believe, not unfrequent in this part oi the 
world, and it was expected that these changes in 



90 THE PATUXENT. [CH. f 

the sea and sky foreboded the arrival of one ; bvit 
they passed by without producing any violent re- 
sults, and when we brought up, which was done 
in the evening, the clouds had dispersed, and the 
water was again like a glassy lake. 

The 18th of August had now arrived, and as 
yet we had advanced no farther than to the mouth 
of the Patuxent. There we lay, as we had done 
the day before, anxiously expecting a breeze ; till 
about noon, the wind beginning to blow fair, the 
fleet entered the river and made its Avay slowly and 
majestically against the stream. The voyage soon 
became picturesque and interesting in the highest 
degree. Fields of Indian corn, with meadows of 
the most luxuriant pasture, stretched along the 
margin of the stream on either hand ; whilst the 
neat wooden houses of the settlers, all of them 
painted white, and surrounded with orchards and 
gardens, presented a striking contrast to the 
boundless forests which formed a back-ground to 
the scene. Of the prodigious extent and gloomy 
appearance of these forests, it is impossible for any 
language to convey an adequate conception. There 
is nothing, at least nothing which 1 have seen, in 
the Old World, at all resembling or to be compared 
with them ; and hemming in, as they do, on every 
side, the tiny spots of cultivation, they certainly 
convey no very enlarged idea of the power of 



k 



VII.] TJIK I'ATUXKNT. *.♦! 

human industry. The cleared fields on I lie hanks 
of the Patuxcnt, for examph\ couhl in no (hrection 
measure ahove half a mile across, — in many ])Uices 
their breadth fell short of that, from ihe river 
to the woods ; and then all was one vast forest, 
through which no eye could penetrate, nor any 
traveller venture to seek his way. We were, as 
may be imagined, greatly taken by scenery so 
novel ; and we continued to gaze upon it with 
the liveliest interest, till our attention was drawn 
away to other and more im])ortant nuitters. 

We had not proceeded many miles from the 
rivers mouth when a telegraph from tlie Admiral 
gave orders for the troops to be in readiness to 
land at a moment's notice. Everything was forth- 
with put in a state of forwardness ; provisions tor 
three days, that is to say, three pounds of pork, 
with two pounds and a half of biscuit, were cooked 
and given to the men ; the cart ouch-boxes were 
supplied with fresh ammunition, and the arms and 
accoutrements handed out. The fleet, however, 
continued to move on, without showing any incli- 
nation to bring to; till, at length, having ascended 
to the distance of ten leao-ues from the bav, tlic 
ships of the line began to take the ground : and, 
in a little while after, even the frigates could ])ro- 
ceed no farther. But, by this time, the sun liad 
set, and darkness was coming on ; consecpiently. 



92 THE PATUXENT. [CH. 

there was no possibility, for tliat day, of getting 
the troops on shore without much confusion, if 
not danger. All therefore remained quiet for the 
night, with this exception, that the soldiers were 
removed from the large ships into such as drew 
least water ; which running up as high as pru- 
dence would permit, under convoy of the gun- 
brigs and sloops of war, there cast anchor. 

As soon as the dawn began to appear, on the 
morning of the 19th, there was a general stir 
throughout the fleet. A gun-brig had already 
taken her station within a hundred and fifty yards 
of a village called St. Benedict's, on the left bank 
of the river, where it was determined that the dis- 
embarkation should be eflected. Her broadside 
was turned towards the shore, and her guns, loaded 
with grape and round shot, were pointed at the 
beach, to cover the landing of the boats; and 
being moored fore and aft with spring-cables, she 
was altogether as manageable as if she had been 
under sail. The rest of the ships were several 
miles lower down the stream, some of them being 
aground at the distance of four leagues from this 
point ; but the boats were quickly hoisted out 
from every one of them, and the river was covered 
in a trice, with a well-manned and warlike flo- 
tilla. The disembarkation was conducted wdth the 
greatest regularity and dispatch. Though the 



VII.] Tin: PATPxr.NT. 03 

stream ran strorif^ ap^-alnst tluMii. and some of tluMn 
were obliired to row fourteen or fifteen miles l)ack- 
wards and forwards, so strenuously did the sailors 
exert themselves, that hy three oVlorh in the after- 
noon the whole arm}' was landed, and occujMed a 
strono- position about two miles above the vilhiirc. 
From what I liave stated respecting' the i^un- 
bri<2;, it will be seen that all thinn's were in readi- 
ness to meet and repel opposition, should sucii be 
offered. Her broadside being pointed directly 
towards the village, whilst it hindered the enemy 
from bringing down troo])s in that direction, gave 
to our people an op]iortunity of forming, and 
being able to meet, in good order, whatever force 
might be posted to check their advance up the 
country. Had a few ])ieces of artillery been 
mounted, indeed, upon the high ground, after- 
wards taken possession of by us, some execution 
mio-ht have been done upon the boats, as tlicy 
drew towards the beach; but even that would 
have been trifling, because, unless they had had 
leisure to heat their shot, no artillery in the open 
country could have long stood before the Are of 
even a srun-brio:, armed as this was for the occa- 
sion with long thirty-two pounders. Kach boat- 
load of soldiers, likewise, drew up the moment 
they stepped on shore, forming line without any 
regard to companies or battalions ; whilst parties 



94 THE PATUXENT. [CH. 

were instantly dispatched to reconnoitre, and to 
take possession of every house, as well as to line 
every hedge, in front of the shore where their 
comrades were arriving. But these preparations, 
though no more than common prudence required, 
were unnecessary ; since there was not only no 
opposition to the landing, but, apparently, no 
enemy within many miles of the place. 

So much time was unavoidably expended in 
establishing the different regiments on the gi-ound 
allotted to them, in bringing up the hospital and 
commissariat stores, and arranging the materiel, 
that when all things were ready, the day appeared 
too far spent to permit an advance into a country, 
of the nature and military situation of which we 
were of course ignorant. The afternoon was ac- 
cordingly devoted to a proper distribution of the 
force ; which was divided into three brigades, in 
the following order : — 

The first, or light brigade, consisted of the 
85th, the light infantry companies of the 4th, 21 st, 
and 44th Eegiments, with the party of disciplined 
negroes, and a company of marines, amounting in 
all to about eleven hundred men ; to the command 
of which Colonel Thornton, of the 85th Regiment, 
was appointed. The second brigade, composed of 
the 4th and 44th Regiments, which mustered toge- 
ther fourteen hundred and sixty bayonets, was 



VII.] ST. benedict's. 95 

entrusted to tlic care of Colonel Brooke, ol the 
44tli ; and the third, made up of the 2 J st. and the 
battalion of marines, and equalling' in nunilxT the 
second brigade, was commanded by Colonel Pat- 
terson, of the 21st. The whole of the infantry 
may, therefore, be estimated at four thousand and 
twenty men. Besides these, there were landed 
about a hundred artillery-men, and an equal 
number of drivers ; but for want of horses to drag 
them, no more than one six-pounder and two 
small three-pounder gims were brought on shore. 
Except those belonging to the general and staff- 
officers, there was not a single horse in the whole 
army. To have taken on shore a large park of 
artillery would have been, under such circum- 
stances, absolute folly ; indeed, the pieces which 
were actually landed, proved in the end of very 
little service, and were drawn by seamen sent from 
the different ships for the purpose. The sailors, 
thus employed, may be rated at a hundred, and 
those occupied in carrying stores, ammunition, and 
other necessaries, at a hundred more ; and thus, 
by adding these, together with fifty sappers and 
miners, to the above amount, the whole lunnber 
of men landed at St. Benedict's may be computed 
at four thousand five hundred. 

This little army was posted upon a heiglit which 
rises at the distance of two miles from the river. 



96 ST. benedict's. [ch. 

In front was a valley, cultivated for some way, 
and intersected with orchards ; at the farther ex- 
tremity of which the advanced picqucts took their 
ground ; pushing forward a chain of sentinels to 
the very skirts of the forest. The right of the 
position was protected by a farm-house with its 
inclosure and out-buildings, and the left rested 
upon the edge of the hill, or rather mound, which 
there abruptly ended. On the brow of the hill, 
and about the centre of the line, were placed the 
cannon, ready loaded, and having lighted fusees 
beside them ; whilst the infantry bivouacked im- 
mediately under the ridge, or rather upon the 
slope of the hill which looked towards the ship- 
ping ; in order to prevent their disposition from 
being seen by the enemy, should they come down 
to attack. But, as we were now in a country 
where we could not calculate upon being safe in 
rear, any more than in front, the chain of picquets 
was carried round both flanks, and so arranged, 
that no attempt could be made to get between the 
army and the fleet, without due notice, and time 
given to oppose and prevent it. Everything, in 
short, was arranged with the utmost skill, and 
every chance of surprise provided against; but the 
night passed in quiet, nor was an opportunity af- 
forded of evincing the utility of the very soldier- 
like dispositions which had been made. 



VIII.] 97 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Next morning the troops, as is customary during 
a state of active warfare, were under arms an 
hour before daylight ; and remained in ])ositI()n 
till after the sun had risen. It was then confi- 
dently expected that the column would he put in 
motion, though in wliat direction it was to ])ro- 
ceed, or what was the object of the descent, none 
but the General himself appeared to know. A 
rumour, indeed, prevailed, that a flotilla of gun- 
boats upon the Patuxent, commanded by the 
American commodore Barney, was the point of 
attack; and that while the land force advanced 
up the river to prevent their retreat, armed boats 
from the fleet were to engage them in front. That 
such was in reality the primary object of the land- 
ing, I have every reason to believe, though cir- 
cumstances afterwards occurred to bring about a 
change in the plan of operations. Into these, 
however, I shall not now enter, because they are 
in no way connected with the present stage of my 
narrative, but shall merely observe, that in their 
expectations of an immediate advance, the troops 

F 



98 NOTTINGHAM. [CH. 

were disappointed. Wliether it was that the 
arrangements had not been completed, or that 
intelligence respecting the state of the country, 
and the enemy's preparations, was wanting, I do 
not know ; but the regiments returned to the 
ground which they had occupied during the night, 
and everything resumed the same face which it 
had worn on the evening before. 

In this state affairs continued till four o'clock 
in the afternoon, when the general suddenly made 
his appearance in the camp, the bugles sounded, 
and the regiments formed in order for marching. 
Nor did many minutes elapse before the word was 
given, and the army began to move, taking the 
direction of Nottingham, a town situated on the 
river, where it was understood that the flotilla 
lay at anchor. The march was conducted with 
the same caution and good order that had marked 
the choice of ground for encamping, and the dis- 
position of the troops in position. The advanced 
guard, consisting of three companies of infantry, 
led the way. These, however, were preceded by 
a section of twenty men, moving before them at 
the distance of a hundred yards ; and even these 
twenty w^ere but the followers of two files, sent 
forward to prevent surprise, and to give warning 
of the approach of the enemy. Parallel with the 
head of the three companies marched the flank 



VIII.] NOTTINGHAM. \)\) 

pat roles; parties of ibrty or iii'ty men, wliidi, ex- 
tending in liles from each side of the road, swept 
the woods and iields to the distance of nearly luilf 
a mile. After the advanced o-uard, leavintr an 
interval of a hundred, or a hundred and iifty 
yards, came the light brigade; wliich, as well as 
the advance, sent out flankers to secure itself 
against ambuscades. Next to it, again, marclied 
the second brigade, moving steadily on, and leav- 
ing the skirmishing and reconnoitring to those in 
front; then came the artillery, consisting, as I 
have already stated, of one six and two three- 
pounder guns, drawn by seamen ; and last of all 
came the third brigade, leaving a detachment at 
the same distance from the rear of the column, as 
the advanced guard was from its front. 

In moving through an enemy's country, the 
joui-neys of an army will, except under particular 
circumstances, be regulated by the nature of the 
ground over which it passes : thus, though eight, 
ten, or even twelve miles may be considered as a 
short day's march, yet if at the end of that s])ace 
an advantageous position occur, (that is, a piece 
of ground well defended by natural or accidental 
barriers, and at the same time calculated 'for the 
operations of that species of force ;[of which the 
army may be composed,) it would be tlie lieight 
of imprudence to push forward, merely because a 



> . > 



f2 



100 NOTTINGHAM. [CH. 

greater extent of country might be traversed 
without fatiguing the troops. On the other hand, 
should an army have proceeded eighteen, twenty, 
or even twenty-five miles, without the occurrence 
of any such position, nothing except the prospect 
of losing a large proportion of his men from 
weariness, ought to induce a general to stop, 
until he has reached some spot at least more 
tenable than the rest. Our march to-day was, 
upon this principle, extremely short, the troops 
halting when they had arrived at a rising ground 
distant not more than six miles from the point 
whence they set out ; and liaving stationed the 
piquets, planted the sentinels, and made such 
other arrangements as the case required, fires 
were lighted, and the men were suffered to lie 
down. 

It may seem strange, but it is nevertheless 
true, that during this short march of six miles, a 
greater number of soldiers dropped out of the 
ranks, and fell behind, from fatigue, than I recol- 
lect to have seen in any march in the Peninsula 
of thrice its duration. The fact is, that the men, 
from having been so long cooped up in ships, 
and unused to carry their baggage and arms, 
were become relaxed and enervated, to a degree 
altogether unnatural ; and this, added to the ex- 
cessive sultriness of the day, which exceeded any- 



Vlll.] NOTTINGHAM. 1 1) I 

thing' wc liad yet cxpcrioncod, quito ovcqxiwcred 
thcui. Tlie load wliicli tliey carried, likt'wiso. was 
far from trifling, since, independent of their arms 
and sixty rounds of ball cartridge, each man bore 
upon his back a knapsack, containing shirts, slioes, 
stockings, &:c., a blanket, a haversack, with ])r()- 
visions for three days, and a canteen or wooden 
keir iilled with water. Under these circumstances, 
the occurrence of the position was extremely for- 
tunate, since not only would the speedy failure of 
light have compelled a halt, whetlier the ground 
chanced to be favourable or the reverse ; but even 
before darkness had come on, scarcely two-thirds 
of the soldiers would have been found in their 
places. 

The ground upon which wc bivouacked, though 
not remarkable for its strength, was precisely such 
as might tempt a general to halt, who found his 
men w^ary, and in danger of being benighted. It 
was a gentle eminence, fronted by an open and 
cultivated country, and crowned witli two or three 
houses, having barns and walled gardens attached 
to them. Neither flank could be said to rest nimn 
any point peculiarly well defended, but they were 
not exposed; because, by extending or condensing 
the line, almost any one of these houses miglit bo 
converted into a protecting redoubt. 1 lie out- 
posts, again, were so far arranged differently irom 



102 NOTTINGHAM. [CH. 

those of yesterday, that, instead of covering only 
the front and the two extremities, they extended 
completely round the encampment, inclosing the 
entire army within a connected chain of sentinels ; 
and precluding the possibility of even a single in- 
dividual making his way within the lines unper- 

ceived. 

These precautions were, however, like those of 
the preceding day, unnecessary, no enemy making 
his appearance, even to reconnoitre ; and yet it 
cannot be said that the night was passed in unin- 
terrupted quiet, for the troops had scarcely lain 
down, when they were disturbed by a tremendous 
storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied by 
a heavy fall of rain. The effect of the lightning, 
as it glanced for a moment upon the bivouac, and 
displayed the firelocks piled in regular order, and 
the men stretched like so many corpses beside 
them, was extremely fine. The efiect of the rain, 
however, was not so agreeable, for being perfectly 
destitute of shelter, we were speedily wet to the 
skin ; and the remainder of oiu' resting- time- was 
rendered thereby the reverse of comfortable. But 
the feelinir of fretfulness natural on such an occa- 
sion, lasted no longer than till the day dawned, 
and the line of march was again formed ; when 
their former good-humour returning, and sea- 
soned, in some degree, by the fatigues of yester- 



I 



Vill.J NOTTINGHAM. I D.'J 

day, the troops moved on in cxcclleni ordrr, iind 
in the highest spirits. /; ) 

The route to-day was different, in many re- 
spects, from that of yesterday. In tlie first place, 
we had now got beyond tlie stretch of cuUivaiion, 
and were proceeding through forests of immea- 
surable extent ; this, of itself, gave a very dif- 
ferent aspect to all around, because hitherto we 
had seen houses and fields of corn on each side of 
the road, and now we could discover nothing but 
wild savannahs, apparently untenanted by a single 
human being. In the next place, we learnt from 
some of the country-people, who had been im- 
pressed as guides into our service, that numerous 
detached bodies of riilemen lay in ambush among 
the thickets ; and the very expectation of having 
something to do, created a degree of excitement 
which, till now, we had not experienced. In con- 
sequence of that information, the fiank patrols 
were strenjrthened and commanded to extend to 
a greater distance ; the advanced guard marched 
at a greater interval from the head of the cohnnn, 
and the whole army moved forward with more 
caution and circumspection than had hitherto 
been used. 

In the course of this day's march, a little ad- 
venture occurred to myself which, in the ilhbe- 
rality of my heart, I could not but regard as 



104 NOTTINGHAM. [CH. 

strikingly characteristic of the character of the 
people to whom we were now opposed, and which, 
as at the time it had something in it truly comical, 
I cannot resist the inclination of repeating, though 
aware that its title to drollery must in a great 
measure be lost in the relation. Having been 
informed that in a certain part of the forest, a 
company of riflemen had passed the night, I took 
with me a party of soldiers, and proceeded in the 
direction pointed out, with the hope of surprising 
them. On reaching the place, I found that they 
had retired, but I thought I could perceive some- 
thing like the glitter of arms a little farther to- 
wards the middle of the wood. Sending several 
iiles of soldiers in different directions, I contrived 
to surround the spot, and then moving forward, I 
beheld two men dressed in black coats, and armed 
with bright firelocks and bayonets, sitting under a 
tree ; as soon as they observed me, they started 
up and took to their heels, but being hemmed in 
on all sides, they quickly perceived that to escape 
was impossible, and accordingly stood still. I 
hastened towards them, and having arrived within 
a few paces of where they stood, I heard the one 
say to the other, with a look of the most perfect 
simplicity, " Stop, John, till the gentlemen pass." 
There was something so ludicrous in this speech, 
and in the cast of countenance which accompanied 



Vni.] NOTTINGHAM. 1 ().j 

it, tliat I could not lielp laugliinrr aloud ; nor was 
my mirth diminished by their attempts to per- 
suade me that they were quiet country people, 
come out for no other ])urpose than to shoot 
scpiirrels. When I desired to know whether tliey 
carried bayonets to char<^e tlic scpiirrels, as well 
as muskets to shoot them, they were rather at a. 
loss for a reply ; but they grumbled cxceedin<^ly 
when they fovmd themselves prisoners, and con« 
ducted as such to the column. 

But to return to the principal narrative. The 
army had now advanced within a few miles of 
Nottingham, and the men were beginning to look, 
forward with some anxiety to a lialt ; whilst as 
yet nothing beyond the capture of a few strag- 
glers had occurred to confirm the rumours which,, 
in the morning, and during the whole of the 
march, had occasioned so much more circumspec- 
tion than appeared to be recpiisite. The day was 
likewise far spent, and, as was to be expected, the 
ranks were beginning to be less carefully pre- 
served, when a smart firing in the wood upon the 
right of the road gave new life and energy to the 
soldiers. It -was now confidently expected that 
the enemy would make a stand. The colunm 
closed its order, ready to wheel into line in a mo- 
ment, and everything was on the (jid vivc : but it 
proved to be no more than a rencounter between 

F 5 



lOG NOTTINGHAM. [CH. 

a party of American riflemen and the flank patrol. 
After firing a few shots, the enemy gave way, and 
our main body, which had continued to move on 
during the skirmish, came in without the slightest 
opposition to the town of Nottingham. 

We found this place (a town or large village, 
capable of containing from a thousand to fifteen 
hvmdred inhabitants) completely deserted. Not 
an individual was to be seen in the streets, or re- 
mained in the houses ; whilst the appearance of 
the furniture, &c., in some places the very bread 
left in tlie ovens shoAved that it had been eva- 
cuated in great haste, and immediately before our 
arrival. The town itself stands upon the banks of 
the Patuxent, and consists of four short streets, 
two running parallel with the river, and two others 
crossino^ them at riirht angles. The houses are 
not such as indicate the existence of much wealth 
or grandeur among the owners, being in general 
built of wood, and little superior to cottages ; but 
around the village are others of a far better 
description, which convey the idea of good sub- 
stantial farm-houses, a species of mansion very 
common in the United States. For several miles 
in every direction, the country was in a high state 
of cultivation ; though instead of the maize and 
wheat which we had hitherto seen, the fields were 
covered Avith an abundant and luxuriant crop of 



VIII.] NOTTINGHAM. 107 

tobacco. This plant seems, indeed, to be at all 
times the staple commodity of that district ; for, 
besides what was growing and unri})e. we f»Mnid 
numerous barns filled with the remains of hist 
year's crop ; the whole of which was of course 
seized in the name of His Majesty King George 
the Third. But in the main object of our pur- 
suit we were disappointed. The flotilla, which 
had been stationed opposite to Nottingliam, re 
tired, on our approach, higher up the stream ; 
and we were consequently in the situation of a 
huntsman who sees his hounds at fault, and has 
every reason to apprehend that his game will 
escape. 

In this posture, the army continued during the 
night, haling its right defended by tlie river, and 
its left extending considerably beyond the town ; 
and secured, as usual, by a connected chain of 
out-posts ; nor was it put in motion, as had been 
done the day before, as soon as there was sufficient 
light to distinguish objects. There seemed, in- 
deed, to be something like hesitation as to the 
course to be pursued, — wdiether to follow tlie gun- 
boats, or to return to the shipping; but. at last, 
the former proceeding was resolved upon, and the 
column set forward about eight o'clock, in the di- 
rection of Marlborough, another village, about ten 
miles beyond Nottingham. The road by which 



108 MARLBOROUGH. [CH. 



/"I 



we travelled, as well to-day as during' the whole 
of the excursion, was remarkably good ; in some 
places rather heavy, from being cut through a 
sandy soil, but in general hard, dusty, and, to use 
an expressive phrase, having a sound bottom. 
Running, as it did for the most part, through the 
heart of thick forests, it was also well sheltered 
from the rays of the sun ; a circumstance which, 
in a climate like this, is of no slight importance. 
To-day, our whole journey was of this description, 
nor did we reach a single cultivated spot till we 
approached the vicinity of Marlborough; when 
we found ourselves in a country not more fertile 
than beautiful. The ground, which had been 
hitherto perfectly flat, was now broken into the 
most graceful swells, generally cleared of wood to 
within a short space of the summits, and then 
crowned with hoar and venerable forests. The 
village itself lies in a valley, formed by two green 
hills ; the distance from the base of one hill to 
the base of the other, may be about two miles, the 
whole of which was laid out in fields of corn, hay, 
and tobacco ; whilst the slopes themselves were 
covered with sheep, for whose support they fur- 
nished ample means. But Marlborough is not, 
like an English village, compact, and consisting 
of one or two lanes : the houses are scattered over 
the plain, and along the sides of the hills, at con- 



VIII.] MARLBOROUGH. 100 

sidcrable intervals from one another, and are all 
surrounded by orchards and i>;ardens. abounding 
in peaches and other I'ruits of the most delicious 
flavour. To add to the beauty of the place, a 
small rivulet makes its way throuixh the bottom, 
and winding- round the foot of one of these ridges, 
falls into the Patuxent, which Hows at its ])ack. 

During our progress to-day, the same caution 
Avas observed which had been practised yesterday. 
Nor was it altogether unnecessary, several bodies 
of the enemy's horse occasionally showing them- 
selves ; and what appeared to be the rear guard 
of a column of infantry evacuating Marlborough, 
as our advance entered. There was, however, little 
or no skirmishing, and we were allowed to remain 
in the villajre all niirht without molestation. But 
if we were not harassed, we were at least startled 
on the march by several heavy explosions. The 
cause of these we were at first unable to discover ; 
but we soon learnt that they were occasioned by 
the blowing up of the very squadron of which we 
were in pursuit ; and which Commodore Barney, 
perceiving the impossibility of preserving. i)ru- 
dently destroyed, in order to prevent its falling 
into our hands. 

In Marlborou"'h we remained not only during 
the night, but till past noon on the following day. 
The hesitation which had caused the loss of a few 



110 MARLBOROUGH. [CH. 

hours at Nottingham, again interfered, and pro- 
duced a delay which niicrht have been attended 
with serious consequences. At length, however, 
orders were given to form, and we quitted Marl- 
borouo^h about two in the afternoon, takinjr the 
road to Washington. During this days march, 
there was more skirmishins: than had vet occurred. 
We had scarcely got above three miles from the 
village, when the advanced guard fell in with a 
partv of riflemen, who maintained a sharp contest 
before they gave way. The column, however, con- 
tinued to move on without molestation, till arriving 
at a ]:)oint where two roads meet, the one leading 
to Washington, the other to Alexandria, a strong 
body of troops, \vith some artillery, were observed 
upon the slope of a height opposite. The capture 
of AVasliington was now the avowed object of our 
invasion, but the General, like an experienced 
officer, was desirous of keeping his enemy in the 
dark as to his plan of operations. Whilst the 
advanced guard, therefore, reinforced by two ad- 
ditional companies, marched directly forward to 
dislodge the party from the heights, the rest of 
the army wheeled to the left, taking the road 
which leads, not to Washington, but to Alexan- 
dria. These movements were not lost upon the 
enemy: who, obser\'ing by the dust in what direc- 
tion the main body had filed off, immediately 



I 



VIII.] WOODYARD. I I I 

began to retreat, without waitinpj for the approach 
of the detachment sent against them. As they 
ascended the hill, however, they made a show of 
haltino' and forming: a line. Our men moved 
steadily on, in column, covered by one com])aiiy 
in extended order along the front, but the enemy 
haA-ing merely thrown a few round shot, with great 
precision, among the skirmishers, broke once again 
into marching order, and were quickly hid by the 
rising ground. As soon as they had disappeared, 
the advance halted; and having remained for 
about an hour on a little hill, to watch tlieir 
motions, turned to the left, and followed the rest 
of the army, which they found advantageously 
posted at a place called Woodyard. 



112 [CH. 



CHAPTER iX. 

I HAD almost forgotten to state, that from the 
iirst moment of our landing, the want of cavalry, 
so useful in obtaining information, and reconnoi- 
tring the open countr}', was very sensibly felt. 
To remedy tliis evil, as far as it could by such 
means be remedied, orders had been issued to 
catch and bring in all the horses that were found 
in the fields or stables of any houses along the 
road ; and these orders being pimctually obeyed, 
there were now fifty or sixty in the camp. Upon 
these some of the artillery drivers were mounted, 
and the command of the troop being given to an 
officer of experience, it was found of great service 
durino; the remainder of the march. 

The advanced guard having joined the main 
body, the whole army, with the exception of a 
party which had been sent to the rear to bring 
up a convoy of provisions, was now bivouacked 
upon a rising ground, Avell defended by hedge- 
rows and thickets. The night, however, was not 



! IX.] MARCH TO WASHINGTON. J | .i 

Spent in as much quietness as usual. 1( was late 
before the troops got to their ground, conse- 
quently the piquets, for want of light, could not 
I be posted in their customary good order, neithui- 
had there been time to examine the country in the 
neighbourhood of the position. The out-posts 
were, therefore, kept in a state of constant anxiety 
by the frequent appearance of small ])arties of the 
enem}^ who hovered about, probably with tlic 
design of cutting off stragglers, or perhaps of sur- 
prising, if they could, some of the piquets them- 
selves. But whatever their intentions might be, 
the vigilance of the sentries contrived to render 
them abortive, nor did anything occur, during 
the night, productive of serious alarm ; and the 
following day, being joined by the convoy which 
came up in safety, the column was again in mo- 
tion, hastening across the country into the high 
road, which had been deserted for no other pur- 
pose than to mislead the Americans. 

Having started, on the 24th, at an early hour, 
our march was, for some time, both cool and 
agreeable. The road, if road it could i)i' c ailed, 
wound for the first five miles through tlie heart 
of an immense forest, and being, in every sense 
of the word, a by-path, was completely oversha- 
dowed by projecting branches of trees, so closely 



/ 



114 MARCH TO WASHINGTON. [CH. 

interwoven, as to prevent a single sunbeam from 
making its way, even at noon, within the arch. 
We continued to move on, therefore, long after 
the sun had risen, without being sensible that 
there was not a cloud in the sky to screen us from 
his influence; whilst a heavy moisture, continu- 
ally emitted from the grass and weeds on both 
sides of us, produced a coolness, which, had it 
been less confined, would have proved extremely 
pleasant. So far, then, we proceeded without ex- 
periencing any other inconvenience than what was 
produced by the damp and foetid atmosphere 
which we breathed ; but no sooner had we begun 
to emerge from the woods, and to enter the open 
country, than an overY)owering change was per- 
ceived. The sun, from which we had been hi- 
therto defended, now beat upon us in full force ; 
and the dust rising in thick masses from under 
our feet, without a breath of air to disperse it, 
flew directly into our faces, occasioning the greatest I 
inconvenience both to the eyes and respiration. I 
have stated this at length, because I do not re- 
collect a period of my military life during which 
I suffered more severely from heat and fatigue ; 
and as a journey of a few miles, under such cir- 
cumstances, tells more than one of thrice the dis- 
tance in a cool day, and along a firm wintry road. 



iX.J MARCH TO WASHINGTON. 11.") 

it is not surprising that before many hours had 
elapsed, numbers of men began to fall beliind, 
from absolute inability to keep up. 

Yet, in spite of all this, there was that in to- 
day's march Avhich rendered it infinitely more in- 
teresting than any we had performed since the 
landing. We had learnt, from various quarters, 
that the enemy was concentrating his forces for 
the purpose of hazarding a battle in defence of 
liis capital. The truth of these rumours we had 
no cause to doubt, confirmed as they wer€ by 
what we had ourselves witnessed only the evening- 
before ; indeed the aspect of various fields on each 
side of the high road (which we had now re- 
gained), where smoking ashes, bundles of straw, 
and remnants of broken victuals wx*re scattered 
about, indicated that considerable bodies of troops 
had passed the night in this neighbourliood. Ttie 
appearance of the road itself, likewise, imprinted 
as it was with fresh marks of many feet and hoofs, 
proved that these troops could be no great way 
before us ; whilst our very proximity to Washing- 
ton, being now distant from it not more than ten 
or twelve miles, all tended to assure us that wc 
should at least see an American army before dark. 

It was now that we experienced the great use- 
fulness of our badly mounted troopers, or as they 



116 MARCH TO WASHINGTON. [CH. 

were called by the private soldiers, our Cossacks. 
The country, from being extremely close, had be- 
come open on every side to a considerable extent, 
although thick groves, instead of hedges, fi'e- 
quently separated one field from another. This 
was exactly the ground on which cavalry could 
act with advantage ; because they might lie in 
ambush behind these groves, totally imperceived, 
and when an opportunity offered, charge the co- 
lumn, before it had time to prepare for their re- 
ception. There were one or two places, indeed, 
where such events were confidently anticipated ; 
whole rows of paling having been pulled up from 
the side of the road, and open spaces left, through 
which several squadrons of horse might gallop ; 
and the consequence was that every man held his 
breath in expectation, and yjrcpared himself to 
form square in a moment. It was here that the 
mounted drivers became peculiarly useful. They 
were divided into small parties of six or eight, and 
sent out in different directions to reconnoitre, two 
of them generally taking post at every suspicious 
corner, that one miffht ffive notice to the column, 
whilst the other watched the motions of an enemy. 
It so happened that these precautions were un- 
necessarv, for whatever might be the strength of 
the Americans in cavalrv, their General did not 



IX.] MARCH. 117 

think fit to employ it in liarassin^^ our niari-h. 
But the very knowlede^e that every danirer was 
provided against, and that they could not be at- 
tacked without havinjr time to make readv, cave 
to the soldiers a degree of steady confidence whicli 
they would otherwise have wanted ; and tlie want 
of which, had the case been different, might have 
been productive of disorder at a moment when 
good order was of vital importance. 

We had now proceeded about nine miles, dur- 
ino^ the last four of which the sun's ravs had beat 
continually upon us, and we liad inhaled almost 
as great a quantity of dust as of air. Numbers 
of men had already fallen to the rear, and manv 
more could with difficulty keep up ; consecpiently, 
if we pushed on much farther without resting, the 
chances were that at least one half of the army 
would be left behind. To prevent this from hap- 
pening, and to give time for the stragglers to 
overtake the column, a halt was determined 
upon, and being led forward to a spot of ground 
^ycll wooded, and watered by a stream which 
crossed the road, the troops were ordered to re- 
fresli themselves. Perhaps no halt ever arrived 
more seasonably than this, or bid fixir to be pro- 
ductive of more beneficial effects ; yet so oppres- 
sive was the heat, that we had not resumed our 
inarch above an hour, when the banks by the 



118 MARCH. [CH. 

way side were again covered with stragglers ; some 
of the finest and stoutest men in the army being 
literally unable to go on. 

The hour of noon was approaching, when a 
heavy cloud of dust, apparently not more than 
two or three miles distant, attracted our attention. 
From whence it originated there was little diffi- 
culty in guessing, nor did many minutes expire 
before surmise was changed into certainty ; for on 
turning a sudden angle in the road, and passing a 
small plantation, wliich obstructed the vision to- 
wards the left, the British and American armies 
became visible to one another. The position oc- 
cupied by the latter was one of great strength, 
and commanding attitude. They were drawn up 
in three lines upon the brow of a hill, having their 
front and left flank covered by a branch of the 
Potomac, and their right resting upon a thick 
wood and a deep ravine. This river, which may 
be about the breadth of the Isis at Oxford, 
flowed between the heights occupied by the Ame- 
rican forces, and the little town of Bladensburg. 
• Across it was thrown a narrow bridge, extending 
from the chief street in that town to the continua- 
tion of the road, which passed through the very 
centre of their position ; and its right bank (the 
bank above which they were drawn up) was 
covered with a narrow stripe of willows and larch 



IX.] BLADENSBURG. 1 lij 

trees, whilst the left was alto<rether hare, low. and 
exposed. Such was the general asy)cct of their 
position as at the Ih'st glance it presented itself; 
of which I must endeavour to give a more de- 
tailed account, that my description of the battle 
may be in some degree intelligible. 

I have said that the right hank of tlie Potomac 
was covered with a narrow stripe of willow and 
larch trees. Here the Americans had stationed 
strong bodies of riflemen, who, in skirmishing 
order, covered the whole front of their army. 
Behind this plantation, again, the lields were 
open and clear, intersected, at certain distances, 
by rows of high and strong paUngs. About the 
middle of the ascent, and in the rear of one of 
these rows, stood the first line, composed entirely 
of infantry ; at a proper interval from this, and in 
a similar situation, stood the second line ; while 
the third, or reserve, was posted within the skirts 
of a wood, which crowned the heights. The artil- 
lery, again, of which they had twenty pieces in 
the field, was thus arranged : on the iiigh joad, 
and commanding the bridge, stood two heavy 
guns; and four more, two on each side of the 
road, swept partly in the same direction, and 
partly dowai the whole of the slope into the 
streets of Bladensburg. The rest were scattered, 
with no great judgment, along the second line of 



120 BLADENSBURG. [CH. 

infantry, occupying diiferent spaces between the 
right of one regiment and the left of another; 
whilst the cavalry showed itself in one mass, 
within a stubble field, near the extreme left of 
the position. Such w^as the nature of the ground 
which they occupied, and the formidable posture 
in which they waited our approach ; amounting, 
by their own account, to nine thousand men, a 
number exactly doubling that of the force which 
was to attack them. 

In the mean time, our column continued to ad- 
vance in the same order which it had hitherto pre- 
served. The road having conducted us for about 
two miles in a direction parallel with the river, and 
of consequence with the enemy's line, suddenly 
turned, and led directly towards the town of 
Bladensburg. Being of course ignorant whether 
this town might not be filled with American 
troops, the main body paused here till the ad- 
vanced guard should reconnoitre. The result 
proved that no opposition was intended in that 
quarter, and that the whole of the enemy's army 
had been withdrawn to the opposite side of the 
stream, whereupon the column was again put in 
motion, and in a short time arrived in the streets 
of Bladensburg, and within range of the Ameri- 
can artillery. Immediately on our reaching this 
point, several of their guns opened upon us, and 



IX.] RLADENSBURG. 121 

kept up a quick and well-directed cannonade, from 
which, as we were again commanded to halt, the 
men were directed to shelter themselves as mucli 
as possible behind the houses. The object of tliis 
halt, it was conjectured, was to give the General 
an opportunity of examining the American hnc, 
and of trying the depth of the river; because at 
present there appeared to be but one practicable 
mode of attack, by crossing the bridge, and taking 
the enemy directly in front. To do so, however, 
exposed as the bridge was, must be attended 
with bloody consequences, nor could the delay of 
a few minutes produce any mischief wliicli the 
discovery of a ford would not am])ly compensate. 
But in this conjecture we were altogether mis- 
taken; for without allowing time to the column 
to close its ranks, or to be joined by such of the 
many stragglers as were now hurrying, as fast 
as weariness would permit, to regain their places, 
the order to halt was countermanded, and tlie 
word given to attack ; and we immediately pushed 
on at double quick time, towards tlie head of 
the bridjre. Vvliile we were movinii^ alonu^ the 
street, a continued fire was kept up, with some 
execution, from those guns which stood to the 
left of the road ; but it was not till the bridge 
was covered with our people that the two-gun 
battery upon the road itself began to play. — 

G 



122 BLADENSBURG. [CH. 

Then, indeed, it also opened, and with tremen- 
dous effect ; for at the first discharge almost an 
entire company was swept down ; but whether 
it was that the guns had been previously laid 
with measured exactness, or that the nerves of 
the gunners became afterwards unsteady, the 
succeeding discharges were much less fatal. The 
riflemen likewise began to gall us from the 
wooded bank, mth a running fire of musketry ; 
and it was not without trampling upon many of 
their dead and dying comrades, that the light 
brigade established itself on the opposite side of 
the stream. 

When once there, however, everything else 

appeared easy. Wheeling off to the right and 

left of the road, they dashed into the thicket, and 

quickly cleared it of the American skirmishers ; 

who, falling back with precipitation upon the | 

first line, threw it into disorder before it had 

fired a shot. The consequence was, that our 

troops had scarcely shown themselves when the 

whole of that line gave Avay, and fled in the 

greatest confusion, leaving the two guns upon the 

road in possession of the victors. 

But here it must be confessed that the light 
brigade was guilty of imprudence. Instead of 
pausing till the rest of the army came up, the 
soldiers lightened themselves by throwing away 



IX.] BLADENSnURG. 123 

tlicir lvna])sacks and havcTsacks ; and extending 
their ranks so as to show an equal front willi the 
encni}-, pushed on to tlie attack of the second 
line. — The Americans, however, saw their weak- 
ness, and stood firm, and liaving the whole of 
their artillery, with the exception of the pieces 
captured on the road, and the greater part of 
their infantry in this line, they first checked tlic 
ardour of the assailants by a heavy fire, and then, 
in their turn, advanced to recover the <rround 
which was lost. Against this charge, the ex- 
tended order of the British troops would not 
permit them to offer an eficctual resistance, and 
they were accordingly borne back to the very 
thicket upon the river's brink; where they main- 
tained themselves with determined obstinacy, re- 
pelling all attempts to drive them througli it; 
and frequently following, to within a short dis- 
tance of the cannon's mouth, such parts of the 
enemy's line as gave way. 

In this state the action continued till the second 
brigade had likewise crossed, and formed upon the 
right bank of the river; when the 44th regiment 
moving to the right, and driving in fhe skir- 
mishers, debouched upon the left flank of tlie 
Americans, and completely turned it. In that 
quarter^, therefore, the battle was won; because 



g2 



124 BLADENSBURG. [CH. 

the raw militia-men, who were stationed there as 
being the least assailable point, when once broken 
could not be rallied. But on their right, the 
enemy still kept their ground with much resolu- 
tion : nor was it till the arrival of the 4th Eegi- 
mcnt, and the advance of the British forces in 
■firm array to the charge, that they began to 
waver. Then, indeed, seeing their left in full 
flight, and the 44th getting in their rear, they 
lost all order, and dispersed, leaving clouds of 
riflemen to cover their retreat ; and hastened to 
conceal themselves in the woods, where it would 
have been madness to follow them. The rout I 
was now c^eneral throusrhout the line. The re- 
serve, which ought to have supported the main 
body, fled as soon as those in its front began to 
give way; and the cavalry, instead of charging the 
British troops, now scattered in pursuit, turned 
their horses' heads and galloped off", leaving them 
in undisputed possession of the field, and of ten 
out of the twenty pieces of artillery. 

This battle, by which the fate of the American 
capital was decided, began about one o'clock 
in the afternoon, and lasted till four. The loss 
on the part of the English was severe, since, out 
of two-thirds of the army, which were engaged, 
upwards of five hundred men were killed and 



IX.] BLADENSBURG. 125 

wounded; and what rendered it d()iil)ly severe 
was, that among these were numbered several 
officers of rank and distinction. Colonel Tlioru- 
ton wlio commanded the hi^ht brii»ade, Lieute- 
nant Colonel Wood commandinii: the 85tb Hciri- 
ment, and IMajor Brown who led the advanced 
guard, were all severely wounded ; and General 
Ross himself had a horse shot under him. On 
the side of the Americans the slaughter was not 
so great. Being in possession of a strong posi- 
tion, they were of course less exposed in defend- 
ing, than the others in storming it; and had tbey 
conducted themselves with coolness, and resolu- 
tion, it is not conceivable how the battle could 
have been won. But the fact is, that, witli the 
exception of a party of sailors from the gun boats, 
under the command of Commodore Barney, no 
troops could behave worse than they did. The 
skirmishers were driven in as soon as attacked, the 
first line gave way without offering the sliglilest 
resistance, and the left of the main body was 
broken within half an hour after it was seriously 
engaged. Of the sailors, however, it would be 
injustice not to speak in the terms which their 
conduct merits. They were employed as gunners, 
and not only did they serve their guns with a 
quickness and precision which astonished their 
assailants, but they stood till some of them were 



126 BLADENSBURG. [CH. 

actually bayoneted, witli fuzes in their hands ; nor 
was it till their leader was wounded and taken, 
and they saw themselves deserted on all sides by 
the soldiers, that they quitted the field. With 
respect to the British army, again, no line of dis- 
tinction can be drawn. All did their duty, and 
none more gallantly than the rest ; and though 
the brunt of the affair fell upon the light brigade, 
this was owing chiefly to the circumstance of its 
being at the head of the column, and perhaps, 
also, in some degree, to its own rash impetuosity. 
The artillery, indeed, could do little; being unable 
to show itself in presence of a force so superior ; 
but the six-pounder was nevertheless brought into 
action, and a corps of rockets proved of striking 
utility. 

Our troops being worn down from fatigue, and 
of course as ignorant of the country, as the Ame- 
ricans were the reverse, the pursuit could not be 
continued to any distance. Neither was it at- 
tended with much slaughter. Diving into the 
recesses of the forests, and covering themselves 
with riflemen, the enemy were quickly beyond 
our reach ; and having no cavalry to scour even 
the high road, ten of the lightest of their guns 
were carried off in the flight. The defeat, how- 
ever, was absolute, and the army Avhich had been 
collected for the defence of Washinj^ton, was 



IX.] BLADENSBURG. 127 

scattered beyond tlie possibility of, at least, an 
immediate reunion ; and as the distance from 
Bladensburg to that city does not exceed four 
miles, there appeared to be no further obstacle in 
the Tvay to prevent its immediate capture. 



]2S 



[CH. 



CHx\PTER X. 

An opportunity so favourable was not endanf^ercd 
by any needless delay. While the two brigades 
whicli liad been engaged remained upon the field 
to recover their order, the third, which had formed 
the reserve, and was consequently imbrolcen, took 
the lead, and pushed forward at a rapid rate 
towards Washington. 

As it was not the intention of the British Go- 
vernment to attempt permanent conquests in this 
part of America ; and as the General was well 
aware that, with a handful of men, he could not 
pretend to establish himself, for any length of 
time, in an enemy's capital, he determined to lay 
it under contribution, and to return quietly to the 
shipping. Nor was there anything unworthy of 
the character of a British officer in this determi- 
nation. By all the customs of war, whatever pub- 
lic property may chance to be in a captured town, 
becomes, confessedly, the just spoil of the con- 
queror ; and in thus proposing to accept a certain 



X.] WASHINGTON. 129 

sum of money in lieu of that property, lie was 
showing mercy, rather than severity, to the van- 
quished. It is true, that if they chose to reject 
his terms, he and his army would be deprived of 
their booty, because, without some more conve- 
nient mode of transporting it than we possessed, 
even the portable part of the property itself could 
not be removed. But, on the other hand, there 
was no difficulty in destroying it ; and thus, 
thougli we should gain nothing, the American Go- 
vernment would lose probably to a much greater 
amount than if they had agreed to purchase its 
preservation by the money demanded. 

Such being the intention of General Ross, he 
did not march the troops immediately into the 
city, but halted them upon a plain in its imme- 
diate vicinity, whilst a flag of truce was sent 
forward with terms. But whatever his proposal 
might have been, it was not so much as heard ; 
for scarcely had the party bearing the flag entered 
the street, when it was fired upon from the win- 
dows of one of the houses, and the horse of the 
General himself, who accompanied it, killed. The 
indignation excited by this act throughout all 
ranks and classes of men in the army, was such as 
the nature of the case could not fail to occasion. 
Every thought of accommodation was instantly 
laid aside; the troops advanced forthwith into the 

g5 



130 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

toAvn, and having first put to the sword all who 
were found in the house from which the shots 
were fired, and reduced it to ashes, they proceed- 
ed, without a moment's delay, to burn and destroy 
every thing in the most distant degree connected 
with Government. In this general devastation 
were included the Senate-house, the President's 
palace, an extensive dock-yard and arsenal, bar- 
racks for two or three thousand men, several large 
store-houses filled with naval and military stores, 
some hundreds of cannon of different descriptions, 
and nearly twenty thousand stand of small arms. 
There were also two or three public rope-walks 
which shared the same fate, a fine frigate pierced 
for sixty guns, and just ready to be launched^ 
several gun brigs and armed schooners, with a 
variety of gun boats and small craft. The powder 
magazines were set on fire, and exploded with a 
tremendous crash, throwing down many houses in 
their \dcinity, partly by pieces of the walls strik- 
ing them, and partly by the concussion of the 
air ; whilst quantities of shot, shell, and hand- 
grenades, which could not otherwise be rendered 
useless, were cast into the river. In destroying 
the cannon, a method was adopted, which I had 
never before witnessed, and which, as it was both 
effectual and expeditious, I cannot avoid relating. 
One gun of rather a small caUbre was pitched 



X.] WASHINGTON. 131 

upon as the executioner of the rest ; and being 
loaded with ball, and turned to the muzzles of the 
others, it was fired, and thus beat out their breech- 
ings. Many, however, not being- mounted, could 
not be thus dealt with ; these were spiked, and 
having' their trunnions knocked off, were after- 
wards cast into the bed of the river. 

All this was as it should be, and had the arm 
of vengeance been extended no further, there 
would not have been room given for so much as 
a whisper of disapprobation. But, unfortunately, 
it did not stop here ; a noble library, several 
printing offices, and all the national archives were 
likewise committed to the flames, which, though 
no doubt the property of Government, might better 
have been spared. It is not, however, my intention 
to join the outcry, which was raised at the time, 
against what the Americans and their admirers 
were pleased to term a line of conduct at once bar- 
barous and unprofitable. On the contrary, I con- 
ceive that too much praise cannot be given to the 
forbearance and humanity of the British troops 
who, irritated as they had every right to be, spared, 
as far as possible, all private property, neither 
plundering nor destroying a single house in tlic 
place, except that from which the General's horse 
had been killed. 

Whilst the third brigade was thus employed. 



132 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

the rest of the army, having recalled its stragglers, 
and removed the wounded into Bladensburg, be- 
ofan its march towards Washinofton. Thoiio^h the 
battle came to a close by four o'clock, the sun had 
set before the different regiments were in a con- 
dition to move, consequently this short journey 
was performed in the dark, The work of destruc- 
tion had also begun in the city, before they quit- 
ted their gi'ound ; and the blazing of houses, 
ships, and stores, the report of exploding maga- 
zines, and the crash of falUng roofs, informed 
them, as thev proceeded, of what was going for- 
ward. It would be difficult to conceive a finer 
spectacle than that which presented itself as they 
approached the town. The sky was brilliantly 
illumined bv the different conflagrations ; and a 
dark red light was thrown upon the road, suffi- 
cient to permit each man to \-iew distinctly his 
comrade's face. Except the burning of St. Se- 
bastian's, I do not recollect to have witnessed, at 
anv period of my life, a scene more striking or 
more sublime. 

Having advanced as far as the plain, where the 
reserve had pre\'iously paused, the first and second 
brigades halted; and, forming into close column, 
passed the night in bivouac. At first, this was 
asreeable enouo-h, because the air was mild, and 
weariness made up for what was wanting in 



X] WASHINGTON. 133 

comfort. But towards morning, a violent storm 
of rain, accompanied with thunder and liglitninir, 
came on, which disturhed the rest of all wlio were 
exposed to it. Yet, in spite of tlie inconvenience 
arising: from the shower, I cannot sav tliat I felt 
disposed to grumble at the interruption, for it 
appeared that what I had before considered as 
superlatively subhme, still wanted this to render 
it complete. The flashes of lightning vied in bril- 
lianc}' with the flames which burst from the roofs 
of burning houses, whilst the thunder drowned, 
for a time, the noise of crumbling walls, and was 
only interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, 
and of large depots of gunpowder, as they one by 
one exploded. 

I need scarcely observe, that the consternation 
of the inhabitants was complete, and that to them 
this was a night of terror. So confident had they 
been of the success of their troops, that i'ew of 
them had dreamt of quitting their houses, or aban- 
doning the city; nor was it till the fugitives from 
the battle began to rush in, filling every i)lace as 
they came with dismay, that the President himself 
thought of providino^ for his safety. That ircn- 
tleman, as I was credibly informed, hadirone forth 
in the morning with the army, and had continued 
among his troops till the British forces began to 
make their appearance. Whether the sight of his 



134 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

enemies cooled his courage or not, I cannot say, 
but, according to my informant, no sooner was the 
gUttering of our arms discernible, than he began 
to discover that his presence was more wanted in 
the senate than in the field ; and having ridden 
through the ranks, and exhorted every man to do 
his duty, he hurried back to his own house, that 
he might prepare a feast for the entertainment of 
his officers, Avhen they should return victorious. 
For the truth of these details I will not be an- 
swerable ; but this much I know, that the feast 
was actually prepared, though, instead of being 
devoured by American officers, it went to satisfy 
the less delicate appetites of a party of English 
soldiers. When the detachment, sent out to 
destroy Mr. Maddison's house, entered his dining 
parlour, they found a dinner table spread, and 
covers laid for forty guests. Several kinds of 
wine, in handsome cut-glass decanters, were cool- 
ing on the sideboard; plate-holders stood by the 
fire-place, filled with dishes and plates; knives, 
forks and spoons, were arranged for immediate 
use ; everything in short was ready for the enter- 
tainment of a ceremonious party. Such were the 
arrangements in the dining-room, whilst in the 
kitchen were others answerable to them in every 
respect. Spits, loaded with joints of various sorts, 
turned before the fire ; pots, saucepans, and other 



X.] WASHINGTON. 13fi 

culinary utensils, stood u])on the iriatc ; and all 
the other requisites for an eleoant and substan- 
tial repast, were in the exact state which indi- 
cated that they had been lately and precipitately 
abandoned. 

The reader will easily believe, that these pre- 
parations were beheld, by a party of lumgry sol- 
diers, with no indifferent eye. An elegant dinner, 
even though considerably over-dressed, was a 
luxury to wliich few of them, at least for some 
time back, had been accustomed ; and which, after 
the dangers and fatigues of the day, ai)peared 
peculiarly inviting. They sat down to it, there- 
fore, not indeed in the most orderly manner, but 
with countenances which would not have disgraced 
a party of aldermen at a civic feast ; and having 
satisfied their appetites with fewer complaints 
than would have probably escaped their rival 
gourmands, and partaken pretty freely of the 
wines, the}^ finished by setting fire to the house 
which had so liberally entertained them. 

I have said that, to the inhabitants of Wabhing- 
ton, this was a night of terror and dismay. From 
whatever cause the confidence arose, certain it is, 
that they expected anything rather than the ar- 
rival amonii' them of a British armv ; and their 
consternation was proportionate to their previou.s 
feeling of security, when an event, so little anti- 



136 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

cipatcd, actually came to pass. The first impulse 
natarall}' prompted tliem to fly, and the streets 
were speedily crowded with soldiers and senators, 
men, women, and children, horses, carriages, and 
carts loaded with household furniture, all hasten- 
ing towards a wooden bridge which crosses the 
Potomac. The confusion thus occasioned was ter- 
rible, and the crowd upon the bridge was such as 
to endanger its giving way. But Mr. Maddison, 
as is affirmed, having escaped among the first, w^as 
no sooner safe on the opposite bank of the river, 
than he gave orders that the bridge should be 
broken down ; which being obeyed, the rest were 
obliged to return, and to trust to the clemency of 
the victors. 

In this manner was the night passed by both 
parties ; and at daybreak next morning, the light 
brigade moved into the city, whilst the reserve fell 
back to a height, about half a mile in the rear. 
Little, however, now remained to be done, be- 
cause everything marked out for destruction was 
already consumed. Of the senate-house, the Pre- 
sident's palace, the barracks, the dock-yard, &c., 
nothing could be seen, except heaps of smoking 
ruins; and even the bridge, a noble structure 
upwards of a mile in length, was almost entirely 
demolished. There was, therefore, no further 
occasion to scatter the troops, and they were 



X,] WASHINGTON. 137 

accordingly kept together as much as possihlc on 
the Capitol Hill. 

Of the city of AVashington, I have purposely 
declined attempting any minute description, be- 
cause it possesses no leading features, by catching 
which I might hope to convey to a person who 
has not seen it, something like an accurate notion 
of the whole. It was then, and is, I believe, still 
in its infancy, few of the streets being finished, 
and many containing not more than three or four 
houses, at wide intervals from each other. But 
its situation gives to it advantages such as few 
capitals cither in the new or old world can l)oast 
of, and if it continue to be the head of the Ame- 
^rican States for another centur}^ it will become, I 
'doubt not, one of the most flourishing cities in 
existence. America is, and always will be, a com- 
mercial nation, nor can a single town throughout 
the whole of that vast continent boast of a better 
harbour than Washington. Standing upon the 
Potomac, one of the most navigable of all the 
rivers that empty themselves into the Chesapeake, 
the depth of which is sufficient to float a frigate 
for some way above the town, it possesses un- 
rivalled facilities for the carrying on of an exten- 
sive trade ; whilst its distance from the coast is 
such as to place it, in a great measure, l)cyond 
reach of insult from an enemy. Such an assertion. 



138 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

coming from one who lias just detailed the par- 
ticulars of its capture, may, indeed, appear to 
partake not slightly of the nature of a paradox ; 
but there is no denying that the fall of Washing- 
ton ought to be attributed much more to the mis- 
conduct of the Americans themselves, than to the 
skill or enterprise of those who effected it. Had 
the emergency been contemplated, and in a proper 
manner provided against, or had the most mode- 
rate ingenuity and courage been displayed in re- 
tarding the progress of our troops, the design, if 
formed at all, would have been either abandoned 
immediately, or must have ended in the total de- 
struction of the invaders. 

Like other infant towns, Washington is but 
little ornamented with fine buildings ; except the 
Senate-house, I really know of none worthy to be 
noticed. This however is, or rather was, an edi- 
fice of some beauty. It stood, where its ruins now 
stand, upon a mound called the Capitol Hill, and 
near a trifling stream named the Tiber ; from 
which circumstances, these modern republicans 
are led to flatter themselves, that the days are 
coming when it will rival in power and grandeur 
the Senate-house of ancient Rome herself. It 
was built entirely of freestone, tastefully worked 
and highly polished; and, besides its numerous 
windows, was lighted from the top by a large and 



X.] WASHINGTON. ]'.][) 

handsome cuY^ola. Perhaps it could not he Raid 
to hclong to any decided style of architect uro* 
hut its central appearance was light, airy, iuid 
elegant. After traversing a wide and spacious 
entrance-hall, you arrived at the foot of a hand- 
some spiral hanging staircase; on the right of 
which were two spacious apartments, one above 
the other, which were occupied as sitting cham- 
bers by the two houses of representatives. From 
these branched off several smaller rooms, fitted 
up as offices, and probably used as such by the 
various officers of state. On the right of the 
staircase, again, w^re two other apartments equal 
in size to those on the left, with a like number of 
smaller rooms branching off from them. These 
were furnished as a public library', the two larger 
being well stocked with valuable books, jirinci- 
pally in modern languages, wliilst the others, 
filled with arcliives, national statutes, acts of 
legislature, &c., were used as the private rooms 
of the librarians. 

The Presidents house, on the other hand, 
though likewise a public building, was remark- 
able for nothing except the absence of taste ex- 
hibited in its structure. It was small, incom- 
modious, and plain ; in no respect likely to excite 
the jealousy of a people peculiarly averse to all 
pomp or parade, even in their chief magistrate. 



140 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

Besides these, there were also a custom-house, j 
several bankmg-houses, and a school or college, 
all clahuing to themselves the distinction of public 
works ; but in them there was a plainness amount- 
ing almost to coarseness, and a general air of 
republicanism, by no means imposing. With re- 
spect to the number of inhabitants which Wash- 
ington contained, I confess that I cannot pretend 
to give an opinion : but if any judgment may be 
formed from the extent of ground covered by 
what is considered as the town, I should say that 
they amounted to somewhere about sixty thou- 
sand. George Town, the quarter where the Pre- 
sident's house stood, is compact and regular, 
containing, I should conceive, at least twenty 
thousand souls within itself; nor can the popula- 
tion of the other qviarters be estimated at less 
than double that number. 

Such was then the city of Washington, of which 
our hasty and unfriendly visit did not allow us to 
take a very minute survey. I return now to the 
movements of the British army. 

I have stated above that our troops were this 
day kept as much together as possible upon the 
Capitol Hill. But it was not alone on account of 
the completion of their destructive labours that 
this was done. A powerful army of Americans 
already began to show themselves upon some 



X.] WASHINGTON. I | I 

! hciglits, at the distance of two or three iiiilcs from 
the city; and as they sent out detaclinu-nls of 
horse even to the very siiburhs, for the purpose of 
-svatching our motions, it would liave l)een unsafe 
to permit more stra^^glino; flmn was absolutely 
necessary. The army which we had overthrown 
the day before, though defeated, was far from 
annihilated; it had by this time recovered its 
panic, began to concentrate itself in our front, 
and presented quite as formidable an a])pearancc 
as ever. Vie learnt, also, that it was joined by 
a considerable force from the back settlements, 
which had arrived too late to take part in the 
action, and the report was, that both combined, 
amounted to nearly twelve thousand men. 

Yv'hether or not it was their intention to attack, 
I cannot pretend to say, because it was noon be- 
fore they shov>ed themselves ; and soon after, when 
something like a movement could be discerned in 
their ranks, the sky grew suddenly dark, and tlio 
most tremendous hurricane ever renuMubered by 
the oldest inhabitant in the place, came on. Of 
the prodigious force of the wind, it is impossible 
for one, who was not an eye-witness to its eftects, 
to form a conception. Eoofs of houses were torn 
off by it, and whirled into the air like sheets of 
paper ; whilst the rain which accom])anied it re- 
sembled the rushing of a mighty cataract, rather 



142 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

than the dropping of a shower. The darkness 
was as great as if the sun had long set, and the 
last remains of twilight had come on, occasionally 
relieved by flashes of vivid lightning streaming 
through it ; which, together with the noise of the 
wind and the thunder, the crash of falling build- 
ings, and the tearing of roofs as they were stript 
from the walls, produced the most appalling effect 
I ever have, and probably ever shall, witness. 
The storm lasted for nearly two hours without 
intermission ; during which time, many of the 
houses spared by us were blown down ; and thirty 
of our men, besides several of the inhabitants, 
buried beneath their ruins. Our column was as 
completely dispersed as if it had received a total 
defeat ; some of the men flying for shelter behind 
walls and buildings, and others falling flat upon 
the ground, to prevent themselves from being 
carried away by the tempest ; nay, such was the 
violence of the wind, that two pieces of light can- 
non, which stood upon the eminence, were fairly 
lifted from the ground, and borne several yards 
to the rear. 



k 



XI.] Ii3 



CHAPTER XL 

When tlie hurricane had blown over, the camp of 
tlic Americans a]:>pearcd to l)e in as great a state 
of confusion as our own; nor could either party 
recover themselves sufficient! v, during* the rest of 
the da}-, to try the fortune of a battle. Of this 
General Koss did not fail to take advantairc. 
He had already attained all that he could iiopc, 
and perhaps more than he originally expected to 
attain ; consequently, to risk another action, would 
only be to spill blood for no purpose. Whatever 
might be tlie issue of the contest, he could derive 
from it no advantage. If he were \'ictorious, it 
would not do away with the necessity wliich 
existed of evacuating Washington ; if defeated, 
his ruin was certain. To avoid fighting was, 
therefore, his object, and perhaps he owed its ac- 
complishment to the fortunate occurrence of the 
storm. Be that, however, as it may, a retreat was 
resolved upon ; and we now only waited for night, 
to put the resolution into practice. 



144 WASHINGTON. [CH. 

There was, however, one difficulty to be sur- 
mounted in this proceeding. Of the wounded, 
many were so ill, as to preclude all possibility of 
their removal, and to leave them in the hands of 
an enemy whom we had beaten, was rather a mor- 
tifying anticipation. But for this there was no 
help ; and it now only remained to make the best 
arrangements for their comfort, and to secure for 
them, as far as could be done, civil treatment 
from the Americans. 

It chanced that, among other prisoners taken at 
Bladensburg, was Commodore Barney, an Ame- 
rican officer of much gallantry and high sense of 
honour. Being himself wounded, he was the 
more likely to feel for those who were in a similar 
condition, and having received the kindest treat- 
ment from our medical attendants, as long as he 
continued under their hands, he became, without 
solicitation, the friend of his fellow- sufferers. 
To him, as well as to the other prisoners, was 
given his parole, and to his care were our 
wounded, in a peculiar manner, intrusted, — a 
trust which he received with the utmost willing- 
ness, and discharged with the most praiseworthy 
exactness. Among other stipulations, it was 
agreed that such of our people as were left be- 
hind, should be considered as prisoners of war, i 
and should be restored to us, as soon as they 



XI.] WASHINGTON. 1 j.") 

were al)lo to travol ; and lliat, as s(3on as (hoy 
roaclicHl the sliij)s, tlu' Coininodori' and his couii- 
iryinen would, in excliango, be released Ironi their 
onii-ao'cments. 

As soon as these arrang-ements were completed, 
and darkness liad come on, the tliird brij^'ade, which 
was posted in the rear of our army, be^'an to witli- 
draw. Then followed the g'uns, afterwards the 
second, and last of all the Hii-ht briirade, exactlv 
reversing' the order which had been maintained 
during the advance. Instead of an advanced 
guard, this last now furnished a party to cover 
the retreat, and the whole procession was closed 
by the mounted drivers. 

It being a matter of great importance to deceive 
the enem}^ and to prevent pursuit, the rear of the 
column did not quit its ground upon the Capitol 
till a late hour. During- the day, an order had 
been issued that none of the inhabitants should 
be seen in the streets after eight o'clock ; and as 
fear renders most men obedient, the order was 
punctually attended to. i\ll the horses l)elong- 
ing to dili'erent officers were removed to drag- the 
guns, no one being- allowed to ride, lest a neigli, 
or even the trampling of hool's, should excite 
suspicion. The fires were trimmed, and matle to 
blaze brightly ; fuel enough was left to keep them 
BO for some hours • and finally, about half past 

H 



146 WASTlINCiTOX. [CH. 

iiino o'clock, the troops formed in ra arching' order, 
and moved off in the most profound silence. Not 
a word was spoken, nor a sino;le individual per- 
mitted to step one inch out of his place, by which 
means they passed along- the streets perfectly un- 
noticed, and cleared the town without any alarm 
being given. Our yjace, it will be imagined, was 
none of the most tardy, consequently it was. not 
lone: before we reached the crround which had 
been occupied by the other brigades. Here we 
found a second line of fires blazing: in the same 
manner as those deserted by ourselves ; and tlie 
same precautions, in every respect, adopted, to 
induce a belief that our army was still quiet. — 
Beyond these, again, we found two or three soli- 
tary fires, placed in such order as to resemble 
those of a chain of piquets. In a word, the 
deception was so well managed, that even we 
ourselves were at first doubtful whether the rest 
of the troops had fallen back. 

When we reached tlie ground where yester- 
day's battle had been fought, the moon rose, and 
exhibited a spectacle by no means enlivening. — 
Tlie dead were still unburied, and lay about in 
every direction, completely naked. They had 
been stripped even of their shirts, and having 
been exposed in this state to the violent rain in 
the morning, they appeared to be bleaclied t j a 



vl.] ULADENSUURG. 147 

most, unnatural degree of wliitcncss. The lieal 
and rain together liad likewise affected them in 
a different manner; and the smell which rose upon 
the niii-ht air was horrible. 

There is soniethino-, in such a scene as this, ex- 
tremely humLling', and repugnant to the feelings 
of lunnan nature. Durin<r the ai^fitation of a 
battle, it is nothing to see men fall in hundreds by 
your side. You may look at them, |)erha])s, for 
an instant, but you do so almost without beinir 
'yourself aware of it, so comj)letely are 3-our 
thoughts carried away by the excitation of the 
moment, and tlie shouts of your com])anions. — 
But wlien you come to yiew the dead in an hour 
of calmness, stripped as they generally are, you 
cannot help remembering how frail may liiiye been 
the coyering which saved yourself from being the 
loathsome thing on which you are now^ gazing. — 
For myself, I confess that these reilections rose 
within my mind on the present occasion ; and if 
iny one should say, that, similarlv situated, they 
vvould not rise in his, I should giye him no credit 

or a superior degree of courage, though 1 might 
ae inclined to despise him for his want of the 

ommon feelings of a reasonable being. 
In Bladensburg, the brigade halted for an hour, 

^dlile those men who had thrown away their knap- 

acks endeavoured to recover them. Durmg this 

II 2 



la 



14S BLADEXSBURG. [CU. 

intcrvaL I strolled up to a house which had been 
converted into an hospital, and paid a hasty visit 
to the wounded. I found them in o-reat pain, and 
some of them deeply aifected at the thought of 
heino- abandoned bv their comrades, and left to 
the mercv of their enemies. Yet, in their ap])rc- 
hcnsion of evil treatment from the Americans, the 
event proved that they had done injustice to that 
people ; who were found to possess at least one 
o'cnerous trait in their character, namely, that of 
behavino- hindlv and attentivelv to their prisoners. 
As soon as the stragglers had returned to their 
ranhs, we ai^ain moved on, continuing to march 
without once stopping to rest, during the whole 
of the niii'ht. Of the fati2:ue of a nio-ht march 
none but those who have experienced it can form 
the smallest conception. Oppressed with the most 
intolerable drovs'siness,, we were absolutely dozing 
upon our le2:s ; and if anv check at the head of 
the column caused a momentary delay, the road 
was instantlv covered with men fast asleep. It is 
li^enerally acknowledged, that no inclination is so 
difficult to resist as the inclination to sleep ; but 
when vou are compelled not onlv to bear up 
a'^'ainst that, but to struo'irle also with weariness, 
and to walk at the sam.e time, it is scarcely pos- 
sible to hold out loui^. Bv seven o'clock in the 
morning,, it was found absolute!}- necessary to 



X!.] MAKLBOROCOII. 149 

pause, because numbers had already fallen be- 
hind, and numbers more were ready to folloir 
their example; when throwinij; ourselves upon tho 
ground, almost in the same order in wh'ih \vc 
liad marched, in le.ss than five minutes there was 
not a single unclosed eye throughout the whole 
brigade. Piquets were of course stationed, and 
sentinels placed, to whom no rest was granted, 
but, except these, the entire army resembled a 
heap of dead bodies on a field of battle, rather 
than living men. 

In this situation we remained till noon, when 
we were attain roused to continue the retr 
Though the sun was oppressively jmwerful, wc 
moved on without resting till dark, when haxin;^ 
arrived at our old position near Marlborough, wo 
halted for the night. During this day's marclu 
we were joined by numbers of negro slaves, who 
implored us to take them along with us, ofiering 
to serve either as soldiers or sailors, if we would 
but give them their liberty ; but as General Uo^s 
persisted in protecting private property of every 
description, few of them were fortunate enough to 
obtain their wishes. 

Wc had nowj>roceeded a distance of thirty-fivc 
ntiks, and began to consider ourselves l)eyond the 
danger of pursuit. The remainder of the rctrc.it 
w as accordingly conducted with more leisure ; our 



150 NOTTDTGHAM. [CH. 

next march carryinsr us no farther than to Not- 
tingham, where Ave remained during an entire dav, 
for the purpose of resting the troops. It cannot, 
however, be said, that this resting-time was spent 
in idleness. A gun-brig, with a number of ships' 
launches, and lonir-boats, had made their war up 
the stream, and were at anchor opposite to the 
town. On board the former were carried such of 
the wounded as had been able to travel, whilst the 
latter were loaded ^^-ith flour and tobacco, the only 

4/ 

spoil which we found it practicable to bring off. 

^Miilst the infantrv v.- ere thus employed, the 
cavalrv was sent back as far as ^larlborous^h, to 
discover whether there were any American forces 
in pursuit : and it was well for the few stragglers 
who had been left behind that this recognizance 
was made. Though there appeared to be no dis- 
position on the part of the American general to 
follow our steps, and to harass the retreat, the in- 
habitants of that villafrc. at the instisration of a 
medical practitioner called Bain, had risen in arms 
as soon as we departed : and falling upon such 
individuals as straved from the column, put some 
of them to death, and made ethers prisoners. A 
soldier whom thev had taken, and who had es- 
caped, gave information of these proceedings to 
the troopers, just as they were about to return 
to head -quarters ; upon which they immediately 



XI.] ST. iji:m:i)h:t's. IJI 

wlioclcil about, ami ^allopiiiL;; into ihc vilU're, 
pulled the doctor out oi" lus bed, ^lor it was early 
m the iiioriiing,; (.-oinpclU'd him, l»v a tlin-al of in- 
btaiit death, to liberate his prisonerb; and iiumnl- 
iii^ him before one of the party, brought him m 
triumph to the camp. 

The wounded, tlie artillery, and i)hin(ler. bcini; 
all embarked on the 2fSth, at daybreak on the 
21'lh v.e took the direction of St. Jn-nedict's, 
where we arrived, without any adventure, at u late 
iiour in the evening. Here we again occuj)icJ 
the ground of which we had taken )>osse6siun on 
lirst landing, passing the night in perfect <juict; 
and next dav, the boats of tlie lleet being ready 
to receive us, the regiments, one by one, marched 
down to the beach. We found the shore covered 
with sailors from the diiferent ship^ of war, who 
welcomed our arrival witli loud cheers ; and hav- 
ing contrived to bring up a larger llotilla tluu 
had been employed in the disembarkation, they 
removed us within a few hours, and witliout the 
occurrence of any accident to our respective 
vessels. 

Such is a i)lain impartial account of the inroad 
upon A\'ashington, an aifair than which the whole 
war produced none more brilliant or more daring. 
In whatever light we may regard it, whether \vc 
look to the amount of dilficulties whicli it behi)vrd 



152 ST. benedict's. [err, 

him to overcome, the inadequacy of the force 
which he commandech or the distance which he 
was called upon to march, in the midst of a hostile 
population, and through deep and trackless forest s, 
Ave cannot deny to General Ross the praise which 
is his due, of having- planned and successfully 
accomplished an expedition, which none but a 
sagacious mind could have devised, and none hut 
a gallant spirit carried into execution. Among 
the many important transactions Avhich then occu- 
pied the puhlic attention, the campaign at Wash- 
ington was, I believe, but little spoken of; and 
even now, it is overwhelmed in the recollections 
of the all- engrossing Waterloo ; but the time will 
probably come, when he, who at the liead of four 
thousand men, penetrated upwards of sixty miles 
into an enemy's country ; overthrew an army 
more than double his own in point of numbers; 
took possession of the capital of a great nation, 
and havinc: held it as lono* as it suited his own 
purposes to hold it, returned again in triumph to 
his fleet, will be ranked, as he deserves to be ranked, 
amon<x the number of those who have most success- 
fully contributed to elevate Great Britain to the 
heii!;ht of military glory on which she now stands. 
It has been said that the entire merit of this 
brilliant expedition is due, not so much to the 
brave man who conducted it, as to Sir George 



XI.] ST. iJEMCDicr's. i:)3 

Cockburn, at uhoyc sii<!;f;;cstiun it was undrr- 
tiikcn. Tu the great galliiiUry and hln;li taU'iitHuf 
Sir (ieorgv Cockbiirn no one who sc'r\ed williiu 
the compass of the Bay of* Chesapeake wlU rel'uv; 
to bear testimony ; nor is it improbabh* that in 
attributini;- to hiiii the ori^-inal debiii-ii of hiviu"- 
AVashington itself under contribution, conunon re- 
])ort speaks truly. But with whomsoever the i(h'a 
iirst orig'inated, to General Ross belonj^stlie undi- 
vided iame of luiving carried it into ctlect. From 
Sir George Cockburn, aiul indeed from tlic whole 
fleet, the army received every assistance whiih it 
was in the power of the licet to bestow ; but liad 
110 Koss been at the head of the land forces, llie 
capital of the United States would have sullered 
no insult. 1 have ventured to make these remarks, 
not with any desig'u of taking away, in the slij^ht- 
cst degree, from the well-earned reputation of the 
living; but merely as an act of justice towards the 
memory of the gallant dead, whose services have 
hardly received all the notice, eitlier from the go- 
vernment or the country, whicli they deserved. 

Of the degree of military sagacity exhibited oi\ 
both sides, during the progress of hostilities, it 
scarcely becomes me to speak. Perhaps our leader 
delaved somethini2: too lonu; in makinir ui) his mind 
as to the ultimate end to be pursued, after iho 
trcops had penetrated so far into the interior as. 

li o 



154 ST. benedict's. [ch. 

Marlborough. Had he pushed on at once, it is 
barel}' possible that Washington might have fallen 
at a less expense of human life than actually oc- 
curred. Perhaps, too, he commenced the attack 
at Bladensburg with a degree of precipitancy 
Avhich hindered him from talcins: advantas^e of an 
open ford, and compelled him to expose his troops 
to the fire of the enemy's artillery, whilst crossing 
a narrow brido'e in a sinoie column. But these 
errors, if errors they may be termed, were amply 
compensated by the perfect success of his opera- 
tions ; whilst in every other particular his conduct 
was beyond the reach of censure. In his choice of 
ground for halting, in the order both of his ad- 
vance and retreat, and in the rapidity of his move- 
ments as soon as his plans had been arranged, 
General Ross exhibited himself in the light of an 
able and dilicrent commander. No man could 
possess more than he a soldier's eye in examining 
the face of a country ; and in what little manoeuvr- 
ing the circumstances permitted, he displayed the 
proficiency of one well practised in the arts of 
campaigning. It will be recollected, that on 
the 23rd, the day previous to the battle, we fell 
in with a strong body of the enemy, to de- 
ceive whom, we wheeled off from the main road, 
and took the direction of Alexandria. The 
plan was attended by the most perfect success ; 



^I.] bT. liKMiDlCl's. lo5 

the party deccivcHl. l)Lini;- in iacL the advauccd- 
^•uard of tht' nuihi army, 'riiinlvini; that Alt'xan- 
dna, and nut W'asiiin^lun, was thrcalrncil. the 
Aniciican general abandoned a stronj^ posiliun, 
Avhic'h lie had seized on the main road, haiUN.^cd 
liis troops by a needless march towards that town; 
and discovered liis mistake, only time enouj^h to 
occupy the heig'hts of Uladenshurji; a very few 
minutes before we came in siiiht. 

With respect to tiie Americans, again, criticism 
necessarily degenerates into un(|ualified censure. 
From the beginning to the end of tiie affair, they 
acted in no one instance like prudent or sagacious 
men. In the lirst place, they ought on no account 
to have risked a general action in an open country, 
however stronij; and steei); and secondly, they 
deserved to sutler much more severely than tliev 
did sutfer, for permitting an enemy's army to 
penetrate beyond Nottingham. In allowing us 
to hind without o})position, they were perhaps 
guilty of no great mistake ; but having done no, 
instead of concentrating their forces in one jdace. 
they ought to liavc liarasscd us with continual 
sl^irmishing ; felled trees on each side, and thrown 
them across tlie road ; dug deep ditches at certain 
intervals ; in a word, it was their wisdom to adopt 
the mode of warfare to wliich their own habits, as 
well as tlie nature of their country, invited them. 



156 ST. Benedict's. [cu. 

In America, cvcrv man is a marlcsman from his 
very liovliood, and cvcrv man serves in the mili- 
tia; Lilt to briiiir an armv of raw militia-mcn, 
however excellent they might be as marksmen, 
into a fair field against regular troops, could end 
in nothing but defeat. "When two lines oppose 
each other, very little depends upon the accuracy 
with which individuals tahe aim. It is then that 
the habit of actino: in concert, the confidence which 
each man feels in his companions, and the rapidity 
and good order in which difTcrcnt movements can 
be executed, arc alone of real service. But put 
these raw militiamen into thick woods, and send 
your regular troops to drive them out, and you will 
immediately lose all the advantages of discipline, 
and reduce vour battle to so manv sin";]c combats. 

Here, therefore, lav their principal error : had 
they left all clear, and permitted us to advance as 
far as Nottingham, then broken up the roads, and 
covered them with trees, it would have been im- 
possible for us to go a step beyond. As soon as 
this was effected, they might have skirmished with 
us in front, and kept our attention alive with part 
of their troops, till the rest, acquainted as they 
doubtless were with every inch of the country, 
had got into our rear, and, by a similar mode of 
proceeding, cut off our retreat. Thus wc should 
have been taken in a snare, from which it would 



M.] ST. BKNr.DlCTS. l;>7 

have I ecu no easy task to extricate oi'.rselvcs, and 
might. ])crhaj)s, have been ohUj^ed in the end to 
sui render at diseretion. 

But so ohvious and so natural a ]»lan of de- 
fence tliey cliose to reject ; antl detenninini:;' to 
trust all to the fate of a hat tie. tliev were iruiltv 
of a monstrous error a<:-ain. Eladenshur*:: ouirlit 
not to have been left unoccupied. Tlie most open 
villa2:c, if rcsolutelv defended, Avill cost manv men 
before it falls ; Avhercas Bladensbur*^, being com- 
posed of substantial brick lionses, miglit liave been 
maintained for hours against all our eHbrts. In 
the next place thev displayed great want of mili- 
tary knowledge in the disposition of both their 
infantrv and artillery. Tiierc was not, in the 
whole space of their position, a single point where 
an enemy would be exposed to a cross fire. Tlie 
troops were drawn up in three straight lines, like 
so manv regiments upon a gala parade; whilst 
the u'uns were used as connecting links to a cliain, 
being posted in the same order, by ones and twos* 
at cverv interval. 

In maintaininfr themselves, likewise, when at- 
tacked they exhibited neither skill nor resolution. 
Of the personal courage of the Americans tlicre 
can be no doubt; thev are, individuallv taken, as 
brave a nation as any in tlie world. But they are 
not soldiers : thev liavc not the experience nor tlic 



158 ST. BENEDICTS. [CH. 

habits of soldiers. It was tlic height of folly, i, 
therefore, to bring them into a situation where 
iiotliing exce])t that experience and those habits 
.will avail ; and it is on this account that 1 repeat 
what I have already said, that the capture of 
Washington was more owing to tlie bhndness of 
the Americans themselves, than to any otlier 
cause. 



XII.] l.V.) 



CHAPTEll XII. 

Whilst tlie army was tlius active! v cm- 
ployed, tlie fleet did not remain idle. A squa- 
dron of frigates, with two Lomb-sliips, under the 
conniiand. of Captain Gordon, of the Sea-liorse, 
penetrated, up the Potomac, and a])peared beiore 
Alexandria. The whole of the niihtia of tlie dis- 
trict was at this time called aw ay for the defence 
of the capital, consequently no place could be less 
prepared to resist an invader than that city. A 
party accordingly landed from the ships without 
opposition, and. having destroyed, the barracks, 
];ublic works, and all the cannon which they 
found on shore, they seized a number of schoon- 
ers and other small craft, then lying in the liar- 
bour, and loading them with Hour and tobacco, to 
a considerable amount, prepared to rejoin the ileet 
in the bay. 

But by this time the country was alarmed; a 
detachment was sent from the main army, and 
being joined by the reserve of militia, it was de- 
termined to intercept the squadron on its return. 



IGvO ALEXANDRIA. [CH. 

With tliis view, several pieces of licavy cannon 
Avere mounted upon a steep part of the hank, 
where the river, in niahing' an angle, narrows con- 
siderahly in its cluinneh Thither, also, hastened 
large bodies of infantry; and before the frigates 
had begun to weigh anchor, nearly 5000 men 
were assembled to prevent their passage. 

Of these preparations Captain Gordon did not 
on<r remain i<>:norant ; nor was lie backward in 
making the best arrangements possible to meet 
the danger. By shifting the ballast in each of the 
vessels entirely to one side, he caused them to lean 
in such a manner as that their artillery could 
be elevated to a surprising degree, and the shot 
rise even to the summit of the hill. The guns 
were then stuffed, rather than loaded, with grape 
and musket-balls ; and the ships, taking their 
stations according to their draft of water, the 
lightest keeping nearest to the enemy's shore, set 
sail, and, favoured by a leading breeze, stood 
leisurely down the river. 

As soon as they arrived within tangible dis- 
tance, a brisk cannonade was opened upon them 
I'rom the heights, and the whole of the infantry 
appeared in line along the brow of the eminence, 
lleirardlcss of these formidable salutations, the 
ships continued to hold their course witliout 
changing their order, or returning a shot, till they 



I 



XII.] ALEXANDRIA. {{')[ 

reached tlic base of the hill wyon wlilcli llic in- 
fantry stood, and received a voHey of inuscjuetry 
into their decks. Then, indeed, tliev answered 
the fire ; and ^vith such effect, tliat at the first 
broadside the enemy's o-uns were ahandonecL and 
their infantry took to iliglit. The Americans had 
persuaded themselves that no ship could point 
her guns so as to sweep the top of the hill ; and 
under this idea had (h-awn up their troops along 
the ridge, with the intention of overawing the 
squadron by a display of their lunnbers. But in 
the event they found themselves mistaken, for so 
Avell had Captain Gordon arranged matters, that 
not a single shot fell under its mark; and as the 
ships' artillery had been loaded for the occasion. 

; a shower of balk of every size and uescri])tion 
came amongst them, such as it was im])ossible to 
withstand. A single broadside was sullicient to 
secure the safe passage of his squadron ; but witli 

i this Captain Gordon was not contented. Seeing 
the enemy driven from their cannon, he immedi- 
ately landed his marines, spiked the guns, and 
blew up the expense magazines ; when, having 

! received them all safely on board again, he con- 
tinued his voyage, and regained the Chesapeake 
without further molestation. 

Nor was this the only operation in which the 
navy were employed. Cruising about in every 



162 ALEXANDRIA. [CH. 



1 






direction, tliey threatened the wliole Unc of coast, 
from the entrance to the very bend of the bay ; 
and thus kept the Americans in a constant state 
of alarm. Whenever a favourable opportunity 
presented itself, parties landed, plundered or de- 
stroyed the government stores, laid towns and dis- 
tricts under contribution, and brought off all the 
shipping \Yhich could be reached. In a word, the 
hostilities carried on in the Chesapeake resembled 
the expeditions of the ancient Danes against Great 
Britain, rather than a modern war between civil- 
ized nations. But these hasty excursions, though 
generally successful, were not always performed 
without loss to the invaders. Many men and 
.some ofliccrs were killed and wounded, among 
wh.om was Captain Sir Peter Parker, of the Me- 
• nelaus frigate, an officer distinguished for his gal- 
Jantry and knowledge of naval tactics. Plaving 
learnt that an encampment of 300 men and six 
pieces of cannon had been formed, at the distance 
of a few miles from the banks of the Potomac, 
and about nine leajrucs below Alexandria, lie de- 
termined, with part of his ship's crew, to surprise 
it, and to capture the guns. Eunning his frigate 
.with this view up the river, he cast anchor oppo- 
site to the place where the American forces lay ; 
and leaving on board only a sufficient number of j| 
sailors to manage the ship, and to guard against , 



XII.] Tin: I'ATUXKNT. Id^ 

surprise, with the rest, iiinountini;- to !i()l) , . n 
tiiid iiuirincs, he hiudecl, and niurcheil lapidly 
to^Ya^ds the enemy's eanp. But intelHjj^i'iiee oi' Wm 
proceeding's had aheady reachi-d tliiin; palroh's 
of horse hovering continually along the coast for 
the purpose of watching the motions of our lleet. 
AVhen, therefore, he arrived at tlie ])oint ol" desti- 
nation, he found the bivouack deserted, and the 
rear-iruard in fidl retreat, ^\'ith these a little 
skirmishing ensued, and he received a ritle-ball iu 
tlie thigh. Not suspecting that the wouiul was 
dangerous, he continued to push iorward, till he 
fell exhausted from loss of blood; when, on exa- 
mining the hurt, it was found that the femoral 
artery had been cut ; and before any proper as- 
sistance could be allbrded, he literally bled to 
death. Seeing their leader killed, and the enemy 
xetiring apparently with the design of drawing 
tliem away from the coast, the sailors now halted ; 
and taking up their dead comnuuuUr, returned to 
the river witliout being able to eliect auNtlunij 
wliicli might, in any degree, console them Ibr tlieir 

loss. 

In the mean time the army continut'il. Ibr some 
days, quietly on board the ships in the Tatuxeiit. 
The wounded wliose cases a])peared must desi>o- 
ratc were removed to vessels litted u]) lor their 
reception, and sailed, some for Halifax, and others 



1G4 THE PATUXENT, [cfi'. 

for England. The dispatclies were likewise made 
out and sent oif in the Ipliig'enia, whilst a sort of 
breathing-tiine Avas given to those who had been 
of late so actively employed. Whilst this sabbath 
continued, I amused myself by landing ; and, 
under the pretext of shooting, strolled sometimes 
farther up the country than prudence exactly war- 
ranted. The houses and villas, upon the innnc- 
diate banks of the river, I found universally de- 
serted, and thoroughly plundered. The corn, 
however, was uninjured ; and even flocks of sheep 
were seen o-razino; within a short distance of the 
water, protected only by negro slaves. Of these 
none were taken without an eraiivalent bcino; as 
faithfully paid as if they had been sold in the 
market-place of New York; a circumstance which 
favoured the belief that the houses had been ran- 
sacked, not by the British troops, but by the in- 
habitants themselves. Whether it was really so 
or not I cannot say, but this I know, that from 
the time of our arrival in the Chesapeake, all acts 
of individual plunder or violence were strictly 
prohibited, and severely punished. 

But this appearance of ruin and desertion ex- 
tended not more than a mile or two from the 
coast. Be3-ond that, I found the cottages occupied 
by their owners, and everything remaining as if no 
enemy were within a hundred miles. The young^ 



XII.] Tin; i'ATUXKNT. J G.j 

iiuMi, Indt etl. "Wore o-cMicrally absrnf. Ix'caiisc* every 
man lit to bear arms was now servini^ with tho 
army ; but tlie old men and tlie women sei-metl to 
live as comfortably as if tlie most jjrofound ])eaco 
had reiu'ned tlirouiihout tlie State. Nor did i find 
them altogether so liostile to our interest as 1 had 
expected. The}' professed to be Federalists ; and 
though they regretted the events of the war. they 
blamed their own rulers for its commencement. 
Tempted by this show of quietness, 1 one day con- 
tinued m}' walk to a greater distance fri)m tho 
fleet than I luid yet ventured to do. My servant 
was with me, but had no arms, and I was armed 
only with a double-barrelled Ibwling-piece. J lav- 
ing wearied myself with looking for game, and 
penetrated beyond my former land-nuirks, I came 
suddenly upon a small handet, oc-cu])ying a piece 
of cleared ground in the very lieart of a thick 
wood. With tliis, to confess the truth, I was by 
no means delighted, more especially as 1 i)erceiveil 
two stout-lookinu: men sitting at the door of one 
of tlie cottaires. To retire, unobservctl. was. how- 
ever, impossible, because the rustling wliich 1 had 
made amono' the trees attracted their attention. 
and tliey saw me, probably, before 1 liad seen 
them. Perceiving that their eyes were fixed upon 
me, 1 determined to put a bold face upon the 
matter \ and calling aloud, as if to a party to halt. 



IG6 THE PATUXENT. [CH» 

I advanced, with m}^ servant, towards tliem. They 
were dressed in sailors' jackets and trowsers, and 
rose on my approach, taking off their hats with 
much civihty. On joining them, I demanded to 
be informed whether they were not EngUshmcn, 
and deserters from the fleet, stating that I was in 
search of two persons very much answering their 
description. They assured me that they were 
Americans, and no deserters, begging that T 
would not take them away ; a request to which, 
after some time, I assented. They then conducted 
me into the house, Avhere I found an old man and 
three women, who entertained me with bread, 
cheese, and new milk. While I was sitting here, a 
third youth, in the dress of a labourer, entered, 
and whispered to one of the sailors, who immedi- 
ately rose to go out, but I commanded him to sit 
still, declaring that I was not satisfied, and should 
certainly arrest him if he attempted to escape. 
The man sat down sulkily; and the young la- 
bourer coming forward, begged permission to exa- 
mine my gun. This was a request which I did not 
much relish, and with which I, of course, refused to 
comply ; telling the fellow that it was loaded, and 
that I was unwilling to trust it out of my own 
hand, on account of a weakness in one of the locks. 
I had now kept up appearances as long as they 
could be kept up, and therefore rose to withdraw ; 



I 



XII.] TIIIC PATIXKNT. If'7 

a measure to whieli I was additionally iiulurcd by 
the ajjpearanee of two ulhcr tuuntryiiu'n at tlia 
opposite end of tlie liandet. 1 tin reforc told tho 
sailors that, ii" they would ])le(li^e themselves t<» 
remain quietly at home, without joiniuir the Aine- 
litan army. 1 would not molest them ; warninij 
them, at the same time, not to venture bevond the 
viUao-e, lest they should lall into the hands of otluT 
])arties, avIio were also in search of de.serters. 'I'hc 
])romise thev i^ave, but not with nuieh alacritv, 
when I rose, and kee])ini»; my e3'e fixed u])on them, 
and mv ixun ready cocked in mv hand, walked out. 
followed by my servant. They conducted us to 
the door, and stood starinir after us till we iiot to 
the cdiije of the wood ; when 1 observed tlicm 
movina: towards their countrymen, who also irazed 
upon us, without either advancini:^ or Jlyinj]^. Tlie 
reader will readily believe, that as soon as we found 
ourselves concealed by the trees, we lost no time iu 
endeavourino; to discover the direct way towardjj 
the sliiiiping-; but pluns^iui:: into the thickets, run 
with all speed, without thinkinu: of auirht except 
an immediate escape from ])ursuit. ^\*hether the 
Americans did attempt to follow, or not. I cannot 
tell. If they did, they took a wrons^ direction, Ibr 
in somethino' more than an hour 1 found myself at 
the edge of the river, a little way above the ship- 
ping-, and returned safely on board, iully resolved 



168 THE PATAPSCO. • [cH. 

not ag'aln to expose myself to sucli risks, without 
necessity. 

In this manner the time was spent, till day- 
break on the Gth of September ; when the whole 
fleet got under weigh, and stood towards tlie 
Chesapeake. The wdnd w-as fair, and we speedily a 
cleared the river ; but instead of standing up the 
bay as we had expected, we ran down a few miles 
below the mouth of the Patuxent, and there an- 
chored. A signal was then made by telegraph, 
for all ships to send in a return of the number of 
seamen whom, in addition to marines, they could 
land with small arms. Every ship's crew was 
accordingly mustered, and it was found that, be- 
sides the numbers necessary for conveying stores, 
and draf>"<i^lnir iruns, one thousand sailors could be , 
spared from the fleet. Thus, in spite of our loss { 
at Bladensburg, we were enabled, on our next 1 
debarkation, to bring into the field about five 
thousand fighting men. | 

Next morning we again weighed, and directed 
our covu'se towards the Potomac. We entered this 
river soon after mid-day, and continued to stem 
the stream during the night, and till dusk on the 
following evening, when we again brouglit up. 
Here we were joined by Admiral Cockburn, Avho 
had quitted the anchorage some days before the 
rest of the fleets witli a large flotilla of prizes and 



1 



11 
\t 
li 
ir 

ed 



XH.] TIIK PATAI'SCO. 1^1) 

small craft ; and liaving. on the Dili, once more set 
sail, and steered for a few hours in the direction of 
Alexandria, we suddenly ])iit about, and. iavoured 
by a fresh breeze, ran down to the hav, turnini; 
our heads upwards towards the Patapsco. Balti- 
more, it was now understood, was the ■|)oint of 
attack, and towards the river. u])on whicli tiiat 
town is built, we hastened under a heavy press of 
sail. 

The object of this manoeuvring was evidently 
to deceive the enemy, and by keeping him in sus- 
pense as to the place threatened, to ])revent his 
concentrating his forces, or throwing up works for 
its defence. But in the attainment of our ohji-ct, 
the event proved that we were but ])artiallv suc- 
cessful. Certain it is, however, that ihc utmost 
consternation prevailed in every town or village 
opposite to which Ave made our appearance. In 
passing AnapoliS; a considerable town built u})on 
the ba}', and possessing a tolerable harbour, we 
stood in so close as to discern the inhabitants Hy- 
ing from their houses : carts and waggons loaded 
with furniture hurrying along the roads, a!i(l 
horsemen galloping along the shore, as if watch- 
ing the fearful moment when the boats should 
be hoisted out, and the troo])s ([uit the vessels. 
Wherever a lighthouse or siiinal station was erect- 
ed, alarm-guns were fired, and beacons lighted. 

I 



170 THE PATAPSCO. [CH. 

In a word, all tlie horrors of doubt and apprehen- 
sion seemed to oppress the inhabitants of this 
devoted district. 

The fair wind continuing to blow without in- 
terruption, on the 11th we came in sight of the 
projecting headland, where it was designed to 
disembark the troops. It was a promontory 
washed by the Patapsco on one side, and a curva- 
ture of the bay itself on the other. It was deter- 
mined to land here, rather than to ascend the 
river, because the Patapsco, though broad, is far 
from deep. It is, in fact, too shallow to admit a 
line-of-battle ship ; and, as no one could guess 
what impediments might be thrown in the way to 
obstruct the navigation, prudence forbade that five 
thousand men should be intrusted to the convoy 
of the smaller vessels alone. Besides, the distance 
from the point to Baltimore did not exceed four- 
teen or fifteen miles ; a space wdiich might easily 
be traversed in a day. 

But wdiile the land forces moved in this direc- 
tion upon Baltimore, it was resolved that the fri- 
gates and bomb-ships should endeavour to force 
their way through ever}^ obstacle, and to obtain 
possession of the navigation of the river, so as, if 
possible, to co-operate with the army, by bombard- 
ing the place from the water. A frigate w^as ac- 
cordingly dispatched to try the depth, and to take 



i 



J; 



XII.] TIIK I'ATAPSCO. ]7| 

soumlino-s of tlu' cluiniu'l, whilst llu* nMnainiliT of 
the lleet ciime to an anchor oH" llie point. In tlu» 
nu'antinic all was a^-ain hiistk' and preparation on 
board tlie troop-slii]>s and transports. Three days' 
provisions were cooked, as helbre, and given to tho 
men; and as we were now to carrv (^-ervthin^* 
by a coup-de-main, twenty rounds of annnunition 
were added to the sixty witli wliich soldiers are 
usually loaded ; whilst a smaller (piantitv of other 
baggage was directed to be taken on shore. A 
blanket, with a spare shirt and ]»air of shoes, was 
considered enough for each man on an exj)edition 
of so rapid a nature; whilst brushes and other 
articles of that description were divided between 
comrades, one carrying what would suffice for 
both. Thus the additional load of twenty car- 
trido'cs was more than counterbalanced by (he 
clothing amd necessaries left behind. 

It was dusk when we reached the anchorage, 
consequently no landing could take place before 
the morrow. But as the boats were ordered to 
be in readiness at dawn, every man slept in his 
clothes, that he might be ])rc])ared to start at a 
moment's warning. There was something in this 
state of preparation at once solemn and exciting. 
That we should obtain possession of a place so im- 
portant as Baltimore without lighting was not to 
be expected ; and, therefore, this arming, and this 

I 2 



172 THE PATAPSCO. [CH. 

bustle seemed, in fact, to be the prelude to a bat- 
tle. But no man, of the smallest reflection, can 
look forward to tlie chance of a sudden and violent 
death, without experiencing sensations very dif- 
ferent from those which he experiences under any 
other circumstances. When the battle has fairly 
begun, I may say with truth that the feelings of 
those engaged are delightful ; because they are, in 
fact, so many gamblers playing for the highest 
stake that can be offered. But the stir and noise 
ef equipping, and then the calmness and stillness 
of expectation, — these are the things which force 
a man to think. On the other hand, the warlike 
appearance of everything about you, the careless 
faces and rude jokes of the private soldiers, and 
something within yourself, which I can compare 
±0 nothing more seemly than the mirth which cri- 
minals are said sometimes to experience and to ex- 
press previous to their execution ; all these com- 
bine to give you a degree of false hilarity, I had 
.almost said painful, from its very excess. It is an 
ao-itation of the nerves, such as we may suppose 
madmen feel ; which you are inclined to wish re- 
moved, though you are not unwilling to admit that 
it is agreeable. 

And yet, as if in mockery of these deadly pre- 
parations, I do not recollect to have seen a more 
lieavcnly night than the present. The heat of the 



1 



i 



XII.] THE PATAPSCO. 1 T.J 

day was past, a full clear moon shone l)ii<rlitlv in 
a sky where not a cloud could be discerned, and a 
heavy dew falling appeared to refresh t lie earth 
which liad been parched and burnt u]) by the sun. 
We lay at this time within two miles of the shore, 
consequently every object there was dislinctly 
visible. Around us were moored numerous ships, 
Avhich, breaking the tide as it ilowed gently on- 
Avards, produced a ceaseless murmur like the gush- 
ing of a mountain stream. The voices of the 
sentinels, too, as they relieved one another on the 
decks ; and the occasional splash of oars, as a soli- 
tary boat rowed backwards and forwards to the 
admiral's ship for orders, sounded peculiarly musi- 
cal in the perfect stillness of a calm night. Tliougli 
I am far from giving the preference, in all respects, 
to a sailor's life, it must, nevertheless, be confessed 
that it has in it many moments of exquisite en- 
joyment, and the present seemed to me to be of 
the number. 



174 [CH. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

But tlie stillness of niglil ^oon passed away, 
and at three o'clock in the morning every ship in 
the fleet began to lower her boats, and the soldiers 
were roused from their slumbers. The same pre- 
cautions which had been formerly used to cover 
the landing were again adopted ; several gun- 
brigs laying themselves within cable's length of 
the beach, and the leading boats in every division 
being armed Avitli carronades, loaded and ready 
for action. But, as had been the case at St. 
Benedict's, they were unnecessary^ for the troops 
reached the shore without opposition, and leisurely 
formed in an open field close to the river. 

It was seven o'clock before the whole army was 
disembarked, and in order for marching. The 
same arrano-ements w^hicli had been made on the 
late expedition, were, as far as circumstances 
w^ould permit, again adopted on this. The light 
brigade, now commanded by Major Jones of the 
4th Kegiment, led the advance ; then followed the 
artillery, amounting to six fieldpieces and two 






XIII.] MARCH. 17.; 

howitzers, all of thcni drawn by liorscs ; next 
came the second brigade, tlien the siiilors. and 
last of all the third brigade. Flank patroles and 
reconnoitring parties were likewise sent out : in 
short, the same admirable dispositions regulated 
the present march which had. governed our mareli 
to AVashington. 

The column being put in motion, advanced, 
without the occurrence of any incident deserving 
of notice, for about an hour, when it arrived at a 
piece of ground w^hich appeared as if it liad been 
lately in possession of the enemy. It was a nar- 
row neck of land, confined between the river on 
one side, and the head of a creek on the other, 
measuring, perhaps, a mile across. From the river 
to the creek a breast-work had been begun, and 
was partly completed. In front of it there were 
lines drawn apparently for the purpose of marking 
out the width of a ditch; in some places the ditch 
itself was dug, and the commencement of what re- 
sembled an enfilading battery in the centi'e, show- 
ed that a considerable degree of science had been 
displayed in the choice of this spot as a military 
position. And, in truth, it was altogether sucli a 
position as, if completed, might have been main- 
tained by a determined force against very superior 
numbers. Both flanks were completely protected, 
not only by water, but by thick wood, while a 



17G MARCH. [CII. 

gentle eminence in the very middle of the line 
offered the most desirable situation for the pro- 
jecting battery which had been begun ; because 
a fire from it would have swept the wliole, both to 
the right and left. In its present state, however, 
it was untenable, unless by a force as able to attack 
as to defend; consequently the Americans, who 
acted solely on the defensive, did wisely in 
choosinii; another. 

But the aspect of the ground was such as led us 
to conclude that the enemy could not be very dis- 
tant. The trooj)s were accordingly halted, that 
the rear might be well up, and the men fresh and 
ready for action. Whilst this was done, part of 
the liank patrole came in, bringing with them three 
light-horsemen, as prisoners. These were young 
gentlemen belonging to a corps of volunteers, fur- 
nished b}^ the town of Baltimore, who had been sent 
out to wakh our motions, and convey intelligence 
to the American sreneral. Bcinir but little accus- 
tomcd to such service, they had suffered them- 
selves to be surprised ; and, instead of reporting 
to their own leader as to the number and dis- 
positions of their adversaries, they were now cate- 
chized by General Ross respecting the strength 
and preparations of their friends. From them we 
learned that a force of no less than twenty thou- 
sand men was embodied for the defence of Balti- 



I 



XIII.] MARCH. 177 

more; but as the accounts of prisoners are f^enc- 
rally over-rated, we took it for granted that tliey 
made their report only to intimidate. 

Having rested for the space of an hour, wo 
again moved forward, but had not proceeded 
above a mile when a sharp fire of musketry was 
heard in front, and shortly afterwards a mounted 
officer came galloping to the rear, who desired us 
to cjuicken our pace, for that the advanced guard 
was engaged. At this intelligence the ranks Avere 
closed, and the troops advanced at a brisk rate^ 
and in profound silence. The firing still continued, 
though, from its running and irregular sound, it 
promised little else than a skirmish; but whether 
it was kept up by detached parties alone, or by 
the outposts of a regular army, we cx-uld not tell ; 
because, from the quantity of wood with which 
the country abounded, and the total absence of 
all hills or eminences, it was impossible to discern 
what was going on at the distance of half a mile 
from the spot where we stood. 

We were already drawing near to the scene of 
action, when another officer came at full speed 
towa-rds us, with horror and dismay in his coun- 
tenance, and calling loudl^^ for a surgeon. Every 
man felt within himself that all was not right, 
though none was wilhng to believe tlie wliispcrs 
of his own terror. But what at first we would not 

i5 



178 ATTACK. [CH 

guess at, because v/e dreaded it so mucli, was soon 
realized ; for the aide-de-camp had scarcely passed, 
when the general's horse, without its rider, and 
with the saddle and housings stained with blood, 
came plunging onwards. Nor was much time 
given for fearful surmise as to the extent of our 
misfortune. In a few moments we reached the 
ground wdierc the skirmishing had taken place, 
and beheld General Ross laid by the side of the 
road, under a canopy of blankets, and apparently 
in the as^onies of death. As soon as the firino- 
began, he had ridden to the front, that he might 
ascertain from whence it originated, and, mingling 
"vvith the skirmishers, was shot in the side by a 
rifleman. The wound was mortal : he fell into 
the arms of his aide-de-camp, and lived only long 
enough to name his wife, and to commend his 
family to the protection of his country. He was 
removed towards the fleet, but expired before his 
bearers could reacli the boats. 

It is impossible to conceive the effect which 
this melancholy spectacle produced throughout the 
army. By the courteousness and condescension of 
his manners. General Eoss had secured the abso- 
lute love of all who served under liim, from the 
hio'hest to the lowest ; and his success on a former 
occasion, as well as his judicious arrangements on 
the present, had inspired every one with the most 



XIII.] ATTACK. 171) 

perfect confidence in his abilities. His very error, 
if* error it may be called, in so youns^ a li-ader — I 
mean that diffidence in liiniself ^vllicll had occa- 
sioned some loss of time on the marcli to \\'asli- 
ington, appeared now to liave loft him. His move- 
ments were at once rapid and cautious; nay, his 
very countenance indicated a fixed determination, 
and a perfect security of success. All eyes were 
turned upon him as we passed, and a sort of in- 
voluntary groan ran from rank to rank, from the 
front to the rear of the column. 

By the fall of our gallant leader, the command 
now devolved upon Colonel Brook, of the 44th 
Regiment, an officer of decided personal courage, 
but, perhaps, better calculated to lead a battalion 
than to guide an army. Being informed of his 
unexpected and undesired elevation, he came to 
the front, and vinder him we continued to move 
on; sorrowful, indeed, but not dejected. The 
skirmishing had now ceased, for the American 
riflemen were driven in; and iu a few minutes we 
found ourselves opposite to a considerable force 
drawn up with some skill, and occupying a strong 
position. Judging from api)earances, 1 shoukl say 
that the corps now opposed to us amounted to 
six or seven thousand men. They covered a neck 
of land, very much resembling tliat whicli we had 
passed; having both flanks defended by little 



ISO ATTACK. [CH. 

inland lakes ; the whole of their position was well 
wooded, and in front of their line was a range of 
high palings, similar to those which intersected 
the field of Bladensburg. About the centre, 
tliough some way advanced, was a farm-liouse, 
with its out-buildings and stack-yard ; and near 
to the right ran the main road. Their artillery, 
which could not greatly exceed our own, either in 
weight of metal, or number of guns, was scattered 
along the line of infiintry in nearly the same order 
as had been preserved at Bladensburg, and their 
reserve was partly seen, and partly hid by a thick 
wood. 

The v.'hole of this country is flat and unbroken. 
About half a mile in rear of the enemy's position 
were some heights, but to occupy these as they 
should be occupied would have required a much 
greater number of men than the American army 
could muster. Their general, therefore, exhibited 
some judgment in his choice of ground, but, per- 
haps, he would have exhibited ' more had he de- 
clined a pitched battle altogether. Yet, to do him 
justice, I repeat that the ground was well chosen; 
for, besides the covering of wood which he secured 
for his own people, he took care to leave open 
fields in his front ; by which means we were of 
necessity exposed to a galling fire, as soon as we 
came within range. Of one error, however, he 



lY 



XITT.] ATTACK. IS I 

was guilty. Either he did not possess liiniseif of 
tlie farm-house at all, or he suirered it to he tida-ii 
from him witli very little resistance; for. on the 
arrival of the column at the ground \vhere it was 
to form, it was in the occu])ation of our advanced 
o'uard. He was likewise to hlame in not iilHn<'- 
the wood upon our left with skirmishers. In 
short, he acted unwisely in merely attempting to 
repel attacks, without ever dreaming that the most 
effectual mode of so doing is to turn the tables, 
and attack the assailants. 

As our troops came up, they filed off to the 
right and left, and drew up, just within cannon 
shot, in the following order. The light brigade, 
consisting, as I have formerly stated, of the both 
Kegiment, and the light companies of the otlu-r 
corps, in extended order, threatened the whole 
front of the American army. The 21st remained 
in column upon the road; the 4th moved off to 
the right, and advanced through a thicket to turn 
the enemy's left ; and the 44th, the seamen and 
marines, formed line in rear of the light brigade. 

While this formation was going on, the artil- 
lery being brought up, opened u])on the Ameri- 
can army, and a smart cannonade ensued on botli 
sides. That our guns were well served. I mysi'lf 
can bear witness ; for I saw the Shrapnel shells 
which were thrown from them strike among the 



182 ATTACK. [CH. 

enemy, and make fearful gaps in the line. Our 
rockets likewise began to play, one of which, fall- 
ing short, lighted upon a hay-stack in the barn- 
yard belonging to the farm-house, and immedi- 
ately set it on fire. The house itself, the stables, 
barns, and outhouses, as well as all the other 
stacks, one after another caught the flames, and 
were quickly in a state of conflagration ; and the 
smoke and blaze which they emitted, together 
^vith the roar of cannon and flashes of the guns, 
produced altogether a very fine effect. 

In the meantime the American artillery was 
not idle. Pushing forward two light field-pieces 
upon the road, they o])ened a destructive fire of 
grape upon the 21st Kegiment, and such of the 
sailors as occupied that point. Three other guns 
were directed against our artillery, between which 
and several of our pieces, a sort of duel was main- 
tained ; and the rest played, without ceasing, upon 
the 85th, and the light companies, who had lain 
down while the other regiments took up their 
ground. Neither was their infantry altogether 
quiet. They marched several strong bodies from 
the riirht to the left, and Avithdrcw others from 
the left to the right of their line, though for what 
end this marching and countermarching was un- 
dertaken, I am at a loss to conceive. While thus 
fliictnatinsr, it was curious to observe their dread 





XIII.] ATTACK. 1S3 

of every spot where a cannon-ball hud struck. 
Having seen the sliots fall, I kept my eye u])an 
one or two places, and perceived tliat each com- 
pany, as it drew near to those points, hung back ; 
and then assuming, as it were, a momentary cou- 
rage, rushed past, leaving a vacancy between it 
and the company which next succeeded. 

All this while the whole of our infantry, exce])t 
the 4th Regiment, lay or stood in anxious expec- 
tation of an order to advance. This, however, 
was not given till that corps had reached the 
thicket through which it was to make its way ; 
when Colonel Brook, with his Staff, having gal- 
loped along the line to see that all was ready, 
commanded the signal to be made. The charge 
was accordingly sounded, and echoed back from 
every bugle in the army, when, starting from the 
ground Avhere they had lain, the troops moved on 
in a cool and orderly manner. A dreadful dis- 
charge of grape and canister shot, of old locks, 
pieces of broken muskets, and everything which 
they could cram into their guns, was now sent 
forth from the whole of the enemy's artillery ; and 
some loss was on our side experienced. Regard- 
less of this, our men went on without either quick- 
ening or retarding their ])ace, till they came within 
an hundred vards of the American line. As yet 
not a musket had been fired, nor a word spoken on 



Il 



184 ATTACK. [CU, 

cither side, but the enemy, now raising a shout, 
fired a volley from right to left, and then kept up 
a rapid and ceaseless discharge of musketry. Nor 
were our people backward in replying to these 
salutes ; for, giving them back both their shout ; 
and their volley, we pushed on at double-quick, 
with the intention of bringing them to the charge. 
The bayonet is a weapon peculiarly British ; 
at least it is a weapon which in the hands of a 
British soldier is irresistible. Though they main- 
tained themselves with great determination, and 
stood to receive our fire till scarcely twenty yards 
divided us, the Americans would not hazard a 
charge. On the left, indeed, where the 21st ad- 
vanced in column, it was not without much diffi- ] 
culty and a severe loss that any attempt to charge 
coLdd be made ; for in that quarter seemed to be 
the flower of the enemy's infantry, as well as the 
main body of their artillery ; towards the right, 
however, the day was quickly won. Tlie only 
thing to be regretted, indeed, was that the attack 
had not been for some time longer deferred ; be- 
cause the Americans were broken and fled, just as 
the 4th Regiment began to show itself upon the 
brink of the water which covered their flank ; and 
before a shallow part could be discovered, and 
the troops were enabled to pass, they had time to 
escape. 



II 



XII].] ATTACK. 1S5 



As soon as tlicir left <:;avc way, the whole Ainc- 
rican army fell into confusion ; nur Jo 1 recollect 
on any occasion to have \vitnesse{l a more com- 
plete rout. Infantr)', cavalry, and artillery, were 
luuklled too-etlier, without the smallest reirard to 
order or regularity. The sole object of anxiety 
seemed to be, which should escape iirst from the 
I field of battle ; insomuch, that numbers were ac- 
tually trodden down by their countrynien in the 
hurry of the flight. Yet, in spite of the sliort 
duration of the action, which lasted little more 
than two hours from its first commencement, tlie 
enemy's loss was severe. Tliey stood, in some 
respects, better than at Bladensburg, consecpiently 
wc were more mingled with them when they gave 
■way, and wxre thus enabled to secure some ])rison- 
ers; an event, which their more immediate flight 
had on the other occasion prevented. In the cap- 
ture of guns, however, we were not so fortunate. 
Their pieces being light, and well supplied with 
horses, they contrived to carry ofl" all except two; 
both of which would have also esca]>ed, but for 
the shooting of the leaders. 

I have said that the number of killed and 
wounded in the American army was very great ; 
in ours, on the other hand, the casualties were 
fewer by far than might have been expected. 
The 2] St and seamen sufi'ered a good deal, the 



18(3 iiAi.T. [en. 

85tli and liglit companies, a little ; but liad our 
gallant General been spared, we should have pro- 
nounced this a glorious, because a comparatively 
bloodless day. In the loss of that one man, how- 
ever, we felt ourselves more deeply wounded than 
if the best battalion in the army had been sacri- 
ficed. 

In following up the flying enemy, the same ob- 
stacles which presented themselves at Bladens- 
burg again came in the way. The thick woods 
quickly screened the fugitives, and as even our 
mounted drivers were wanting, their horses hav- 
inir been taken for the use of the artillery, no 
effectual pursuit could be attempted. We accord- 
ingly halted upon the field of battle, of necessity 
content with the success which we had obtained ; 
and having collected the stragglers, and called in 
the pursuers, it was resolved to pass the night in 
this situation. Fires were speedily lighted, and 
the troops distributed in such a manner as to 
secure a tolerable position in case of attack; and 
the wounded bein"; removed into two or three 
houses scattered along the ground, the victors lay 
down to sleep under the canopy of heaven. 

Havinc: thus <riven a distinct and connected 
detail of this affair, I shall beg leave to finish the 
present Chapter with one or two anecdotes, which 
may be not unamusing. It is said that when 



xiii.] HALT. 187 

Admiral Coclvbiirn, ^vlK) accompanied the army, 
and attended General iioss with the (ideUty of an 
aide de-camp, was in ttie wood where the latter 
fell, he observed an American riilcman taking: 
deliberate aim at him from behind a tree. In- 
stead of turning aside, or discharging- a pistol at 
the fellow, as any other man would have done, the 
brave Admiral, doubling his fist, shook it at his 
enemy, and cried aloud, " O you d — d Yankee, 
111 give it you !" upon which the man dropped 
his musket in the greatest alarm, and took to his 
heels. 

It is likewise told of an officer of engineers, that 
having overtaken an American soldier, and de- 
manded his arms, the fellow gave him his rifle 
very readily, but being ordered to resign a hand- 
some silver-hilted dai>:<>:er and silver-mounted 
cartouch-box, which graced his side, he refused 
to comply, alleging that they Avere private pro- 
perty, and that, by our own proclamations, private 
property should be respected. This was an in- 
stance of low cunning, which reminded me of my 
own adventure with the squirrel-hunters, and 
which was attended with equal success. 

One other anecdote, of a different nature, and 
for the truth of which I can myself answer, may 
likewise be related. In strolling over the field of 
battle, 1 came unexpectedly upon a wounded 



188 HALT. [CH. 

American, who lay among some bushes with his 
leg broken. I drew near to offer him assistance, 
but on seeing me, the wretch screamed out, ancb 
appeared in the greatest alarm ; nor was it with- 
out some difficulty that I could persuade him he: 
had nothino; to fear. At last, beins: convinced] 
that I intended him no harm, the fellow informedl 
me that it was impressed upon the minds of thee 
American levies, that from the British they mightl 
expect no quarter ; and that it was conscquently|( 
their determination to give no quarter to thee 
British troops. The fellov/ might belie his coun-^ 
trymen, and I hope and believe he did, but such^ 
was his report to me. To convince him of thei' 
crroneousness of his notions, I removed him to."' 
one of our hospitals, where his leg was ampu- 
tated ; and he saw himself, as well as many others' 
of his wounded comrades, treated with the same' 
attention which was bestowed upon our own sol-- 
diers. 



I 

or J 189 



, 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Vt an early hour on tlie 13tli, the troops Avcre 

oused from their hiirs, and forming upon the 

;round, waited till daylight should appear. A 

icavy rain had come on about midnight, and now 

, (11 with so much violence, that some precautions 

1 vcre ncccssar}", in order to prevent the hrelocks 

f "rom being rendered useless by wet. Such of the 

J lien as were fortunate enough to possess leathern 

,. ases, wrapped them round the locks of their mus- 

„ :cts, whilst the rest held them in the best manner 

,^, hey could, under their elbows; no man thinking 

[. )f liimself, but only how he could best keep his 

Lims in a serviceable condition. 

As soon as the first 2:limmerin2^ of dawn could 
)C discerned, we moved to the road, and took up 
)ur Avonted order of march ; but before we pushed 
brward, the troops were desired to lighten tliem- 
clves still further, by throwing off tlieir blankets, 
vliich were to be left under a slender guard till 
heir return. This was accordingly done ; and 
)eiDg now unincumbered, except by a knapsack 



i 



190 MARCH. [CH. 

almost empty, every man felt his spirits height cned 
in proportion to the diminution of his load. The 
srrief of soldiers is seldom of lono- duration, and 
though I will not exactly say that poor Ross was 
already forgotten, the success of yesterday hadi 
reconciled at least the privates to the guidance of 
their new leader ; nor was any otiier issue antici- 
pated, than what would have attended the excur- 
sion, had he still been its mainspring and director. 
The country through wliich we passed resembled, 
in every particular, that already described. Wood 
and cultivation succeeded each other at intervals, 
though the former surjiassed the latter in tenfold 
extent; but instead of deserted villages and empty 
houses which had met us on the way to Washing- 
ton, we found most of the inhabitants remainino; 
peaceably in their homes, and relying upon the 
assurance of protection given to them in our pro- 
clamations. Nor had they cause to repent of that 
confidence. In no instance were they insulted, 
plundered, or ill-treated ; whereas every house 
which was abandoned, fell a prey to the scouts 
and reconnoitring parties. 

But our march to-day was not so rapid as our 
motions generally Avere. The Americans had at 
last adopted an expedient which, if carried to its 
proper length, might have entirely stopped our 
progress. In most of the woods they had felled 






XIV.] MARCH. I<|( 

trees, and thrown tliem iicross lliu roiul ; l.ul a.s 
tliese abattis were without (h'fendcrs, wu expe- 
rienced no other inconvenience tlian wluit arose 
from loss of time; being obbged to lialt on all 
snch occasions till the pioneers had removed tlie 
obstacle. So great, however, was even this liin- 
derance, that we did not come in sight of tlie main 
army of the Americans till evening, although the 
distance travelled covild not exceed ten miles. 

It now appeared, that the corps whicli we liad 
beaten yesterday was only a detachment, and not 
a large one, from the force collected for the de- 
fence of Baltimore; and that the account given 
by the volunteer troopers was in every res])ect 
correct. Upon a ridge of hills, which concealed 
the town itself from observation, stood tlie grand 
army, consisting of twenty thousand men. Not 
trusting to his superiority in numbers, their 
General had there entrenched them in the most 
formidable manner, having covered the whole face 
of the heights with breast-works, thrown back liis 
left, so as to rest it upon a strong fort, erected for 
the protection of the river, and constructed a 
chain of field redoubts, which covered his right, 
and commanded the entire ascent. Along the 
side of the hill were likewise flcches, and other 
projecting works, from which a cross fire might 
be kept up ; and there were mounted throughout 



192 



HALT. [CfJ- 



this commanding' position no less than one hun- 
dred pieces of cannon. 

It would be absurd to suppose that the sight of 
preparations so warlike did not m some degree 
clamp the ardour of our leader; at least it would 
have been madness to storm such works, without 
pausing to consider how it might best be at- 
tempted. The whole of the country within can- 
non-shot was cleared from wood, and laid out in 
o-rass and corn fields ; consequently there was no 
cover to shelter an attacking army from any part 
of the deadly fire which would be immediately 
poured upon it. The most prudent plan, there- 
fore, was to wait till dark ; and then, assisted by 
the frigates and bombs, which he hoped were by 
this time ready to co-operate, to try the fortune 
of a battle. 

Havino- resolved thus to act, Colonel Brook 
halted his army; and, secured against surprise 
by a well-connected line of piquets, the troops 
were permitted to light fires, and to cook their 
provisions. But though the rain still fell in tor- 
rents, no shelter could be obtained ; and as even 
their blankets were no longer at hand, with which 
to form gipsy-tents, this was the reverse of an 
a^n'ceable bivouac to the whole army. 

Darkness had now come on, and as yet no intel- 
r^gence had arrived from the shipping. To assail 



XIV.] HALT. 193 

sucli a position, lio\vev(^r, withov.t tlu^ aid of tlic 
ilcet, was deemed in)])racti(.'al)le ; at U-ast our 
chance of success would be o-ivatlv dimlnisluHl 
without their co-operation. As the k'I't of the 
American army extended to a fort, l)uilt u])()n the 
very brink of the river, it was clear that, could 
the ships be brought to bear upon that point, and 
the fort be silenced by their fire, that flank of tlic 
position would be turned. This once effected, 
there would be no difficulty in pushing- a column 
within their works ; and as soldiers entrenched 
always place more reliance upon the strength of 
their entrenchments than upon their own personal 
exertions, the very sight of our people on a level 
with them would in all probability decide tlic 
contest. At all events, as the cohnr.u was to 
advance under cover of night, it might easily 
push forward and crown the hill above the enemy, 
before any eifectual opposition could be oflered ; 
by which means they would be inclosed between 
two fires, and lose the advantage which their 
present elevated situation bestowed. All, how- 
ever, depended upon the abihty of the fleet to 
lend their assistance; for without silencing tlie 
fort, this flank could scarcely be assailed with any 
chance of success, and, therefore, the whole plan 
of operations must be changed. 

Havino; waited till it was considered imprudent 

K 



194 SEARCH. [CH. 

to wait longer, without knowing whether he was 
to be supported. Colonel Brook determined, if 
possible, to open a communication with the fleet. 
That the river could not be far off we knew, but 
how to get to it mthout falling in with wandering 
parties of the enemy was the difficulty. The 
thing, however, must be done; and as secrecy, 
and not force, was the main object, it was resolved 
to despatch for the purpose a single officer without 
an escort. On this service, a particular friend of 
mine chanced to be employed. Mounting his 
horse, he proceeded to the right of the army, 
where, having delayed a few minutes till the moon 
rising gave light enough through the clouds to 
distinguish objects, he pushed forward at a ven- 
ture, in as straight a line as he could guess at. It 
was not long before his progress w^as stopped by 
a high hedge. Like knight-errants of old, he then 
gave himself up to the guidance of his horse, which 
taking him towards the rear, soon brought him 
into a narrow lane, that appeared to wind in the 
direction of the enemy's fort : this lane he deter- 
mined to follow, and holding a cocked pistol in 
liis hand, pushed on, not perhaps entirely com- 
fortable, but desirous at all hazards of executing 
his commission. He had not ridden far, when the 
sound of voices through the splashing of the rain 
arrested his attention. Pulling up, he listened in 



XIV.] SKAIUni. I<)5 

silence, and soon discovered that tliey came from 
two American soldiers; whether stragi^lers or sen- 
tinels, it was impossible to divine ; but wIiocvit 
they w^ere, they seemed to be approach hi «;•. It 
now struck him, that his safest course would be to 
commence the attack, and having therefore waited 
till he saw them stop short, as if they had perceived 
him, he rode forward, and called out to tliem to 
surrender. The fellows turned and fled, but sral- 
loping after them, lie overtook one, at whose head 
he presented a pistol, and who instantly threw 
down his rifle, and 3"ielded himself prisoner; wliilst 
the other, dashing into a thicket, escaped, pro- 
bably to tell that he had been attacked by a whole 
regiment of British cavalry. Having thus taken 
a prisoner, my friend resolved to make him of 
some use; with this view he commanded Iiim to 
lay hold of his thigh, and to guide him directly to 
the river, threatening, if he attempted to mislead 
or betray him into the hands of the Americans, 
that he would instantly blow out his brains. 
Finding himself completely in my friend's power, 
the fellow could not refuse to obey ; and accord- 
ingly, the man resting his hand upon the left 
thigli of the officer, they proceeded along the lane 
for some time, till they came to a part where it 
branched off in two directions. My friend Iuto 
stopped for a moment, and again rcjx'ated liis 

K 2 



19G SEARCH, [CH. 

tlircat, swearing that the instant his conduct be- 
came suspicious should be the last of his life. The 
soldier assured him that he would keep his word, 
and moreover informed him that some of our 
ships were almost within gun-shot of the fort ; a 
piece of information which was quickly confirmed 
by the sound of firing, and the appearance of 
shells in the air. They now struck to the right, 
and in half an hour gained the brink of the river; 
where my friend found a party just landed from 
the squadron, and preparing to seek their way 
towards the camp. By them he was conducted to 
the Admiral, from whom he learnt that no effec- 
tual support could be given to the land force ; 
for such was the shallowness of the river, that 
none except the very lightest craft could make 
their way within six miles of the town ; and even 
these were stopped by vessels sunk in the channel, 
and other artificial bars, barely within a sheirs 
longest range of the fort. With this unwelcome 
news he was accordingly forced to return ; and 
taking his unwilling guide along with him, he 
made his way, without any adventure, to our ad- 
vanced posts ; where, having thanked the fellow 
for his fidelity, he rewarded it more effectually, by 
setting him at liberty. 

Having brought his report to head-quarters, 
a council of war was instantly summoned to de- 



XIV.] MARCH. 



11)7 



liberate upon what was best to be done. Without 
the help of the fleet, it was evident that, ;i(U)pt 
what i^lan of attack we could, our loss must be 
such as to counterbalance even success itsell'; 
whilst success, under existing circumstances, was, 
to say the least of it, doubtful. And even if we 
should succeed, what would be o-ained bv it / 
We could not remove anything- from Baltimore, 
for want of proper conveyances. Had the ships 
been able to reach the town, then, indeed, the 
quantity of booty might have repaid the sur- 
vivors for their toil, and consoled them for the 
loss of comrades ; but as the case now stood, wo 
should only fight to give us an opportunity of 
re acting the scenes of Washington. To distress 
an enemy is, no doubt, desirable, but, in tiie pre- 
sent instance, that distress, even if brought upon 
the Americans, would cost us dear ; wliereas, if we 
failed, it was hardly possible to avoid destruction. 
Such was the reasoning which influenced the 
council of war to decide that all idea of stormiuir 
the enemy's lines should be given up. To draw 
them from their works would require manoeuvring, 
and manoeuvring recjuires time ; but delays were 
all in their favour, and could not possibly advan- 
tage us. Every hour brought in reinforcements 
to their army, whereas ours had no source from 
which even to recruit its losses ; and it was, there- 



]9S MARCH. [CH. 

fore, deemed prudent, since we could not figlit 
at once/ to lose no time in returning to the 
sliipping. 

About three hours after midnight, the troops 
were accordingly formed upon the road, and began 
their retreat ; leaving the piquets to deceive the 
enemy, and to follow as a rear-guard. The rain, 
■wliich had continued with little interruption since 
the nijrht before, now ceased, and the moon shone 
out bright and clear. We marched along, there- 
fore, not in the same spirits as if we had been 
advancing, but feeling no debasement at having 
thus relinquished an enterprise so much beyond 
our strength. 

When the day broke, our piquets, wdiich had 
withdrawn about an hour before, rejoined us, and 
we went on in a body. Marching over the field 
where the battle of the 12th had been fought, w^e 
beheld the dead scattered about, and still un- 
buried ; but so far different from those which we 
had seen at Bladensburg, that they were not 
stripped, every man lying as he had fallen. One 
object, however, struck me as curious. I saw 
several men hanging lifeless among the branches 
of trees, and learnt that they had been riflemen, 
who chose, during the battle, to fix themselves in 
these elevated situations, for the combined pur- 
poses of securing a good aim, and avoiding 



XiV.] RALLY. 11)9 

danger. Whatever might be their success in tlic 
first of these designs, in the last they failed ; lor 
our men soon discovered them, and, considcrino- 
the thing as unfair, refused to give them quuitcr, 
and shot them on their perches. 

Here we paused for about an hour, that the 
soldiers might collect their blankets, and refresh 
themselves ; when we again moved forward, pass- 
ing the wood where the gallant Eoss was killed. 
It was noon, and as yet all had gone on smoothly 
without any check or alarm. So little indeed was 
pursuit dreamt of, that the column began to strag- 
gle, and to march without much regard to order ; 
when suddenly the bugle sounded from the rear, 
and immediately after some musket shots were 
heard. In an instant the men were in their 
places, and the regiments wheeled into line, facing 
towards the enemy. The artillery turned round 
and advanced to the front ; indeed I have never 
seen a manoeuvre more coolly or more steadily 
performed on a parade in England, than this 
rally. The alarm, however, turned out to be 
groundless, being occasioned only by the sud- 
den aj^pearance of a squadron of horse, which' 
had been sent out by the American General to 
track our steps. These endeavoured to charge 
the rear-guard, and succeeded in making two 



200 HALT. [CH. 

prisoners ; but a single Shrapnel chcclvcd their 
farther advance, and sent them back at full speed 
to boast of the brave exploit which they had per- 
formed. 

Seeing that no attack was seriously intended, 
the army broke once more into the line of march, 
and proceeded to a favourable piece of ground, 
near the uncompleted position which 1 have al- 
ready described; where we passed the night under 
little tents made with blankets and ramrods. No 
alarm occurring, nor any cause of delay appearing, 
at day-break we again gotunder arms, and pushed 
on towards the shipping, which in two hours were 
distinguishable. 

The infantry now halted upon a narrow neck of 
land, while the artillery was lifted into boats, and 
conveyed on board the fleet. As soon as this was 
done, brigade after brigade fell back to the water's 
edge, and embarked, till finally all, except the 
light troops, were got off. These being left to 
cover the embarkation, were extended across the 
entire space which but a little before contained 
the whole army ; but as no attempt was made to 
molest them, they had only the honour of being 
the last to quit the shore. 

Were I to enter into a review of the military 
proceedings in this expedition, I should be con- 



f 



^^^•] HALT. 201 

dcmned to repeat, almost word for word, tlie re- 
marks which I ventured to make upon tlie opera- 
tions previous to the capture of Wasliin-ton. On 
the present occasion, however, neither liesitation 
nor precipitancy was dispL^yed by the Britisli 
General. He threw his valuable life away, indeed, 
by exposing his person unnecessarily in a trifling- 
skirmish ; but who will blame a soldier for exce.s^ 
of courage, or a leader for excess of alertness ? Like 
other able men, he was unwilling to trust to the 
report of his subalterns, when it was in his powc>r 
to ascertain wliat he sought to know by personal 
observation ; and, like other brave men, he would 
not be deterred from prosecuting his design by the 
apprehension of danger. In the plan of the expe- 
dition here, he displayed both skill and resolution. 
Instead of wasting time by an attempt to ascend 
the river, he chose to land where he was least 
likely to meet with immediate opposition; and 
such was the celerity of his motions, that, had lie 
lived, the chances are that we should have fouo-ht 
two battles in one day. But of what a man might 
have done, I have nothing to say ; let me rather 
do justice to his successor and his advisers. Of 
these latter, there is one whom it would be impro- 
per not to mention by name — I mean Lieutenant 
Evans, Deputy Assistant Quarter Master G eneral. 

K 5 



202 HALT. [CH 

The whole arrangement of our troops in order of 
battle was committed to him ; and the judicious 
method in which they were draw^n up, proved that 
he was not unworthy of the trust. With respect 
to the determination of the council of war, I choose 
to be silent. Certain it is, that the number of our 
forces would hardly authorize any desperate at- 
tempt ; yet had the attempt been made, I have 
very little doubt that it would have been made 
successfully. 

On the part of the Americans, again, the same 
blunders were committed which marked their pro- 
ceedings during the incursion to Washington ; 
with this exception, that more science w^as dis- 
played now than formerly in the distribution of 
their forces along their principal position. At 
Bladensburg, indeed, there existed no works, and 
the troops were badly arranged in an open 
country : here there w^ere not only fortifications, 
bvit fortifications constructed in a scientific man- 
ner, and troops draAvn up in such order, as that, 
even without their works, many cross fires would 
have protected their front. But they neglected 
numerous favourable opportunities of harassing 
both our advance and retreat. They felled trees, 
but left no guards to keep them from being re- 
moved, and took no advantage of the delays which 



XIV.] HALT. 20:i 

their removal created. They risked a l)attlc with 
a part of their army, Avhen there was no necessity 
for it ; in a word, they committed all those errcjrs 
which men generally commit who are not soldiers, 
and yet love war. 



204 [cH. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Having once more received the troops on board, 
the fleet remamed quietly at anchor till the 17th, 
when, at an early hour, we set sail and stood to- 
wards the Patuxent. In this voyage we passed 
close to Kent Island, and again threw the inha- 
bitants of Anapolis into alarm by approaching 
almost within gun-shot of their town ; but at nei- 
ther place were hostilities attempted, and on the 
lyth we arrived, without any adventure, at our 
former anchorage in the river. Here we brought 
up, and parties were sent on shore to dig wells in 
the sand, to which the boats resorted in great 
numbers for water. Cattle and sheep were like- 
wise purchased from the natives ; some of the 
Hour which had been captured was converted into 
biscuit ; and every preparation seemed to be 
making for a long voyage. 

To facilitate these operations, the fleet now 
separated, part remaining here, and part proceed- 
ing under Admiral Malcolm to the Potomac; 
whilst Sir Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, 



XV.] THE PATUXENT. 2 05 

with several frigates and g\m-brigs, quitted us 
altogether, and set sail, as it was given out, for 
Halifax. But our situation was by no means 
agreeable. The climate of this part of America 
is, at certain seasons, far from healthy ; and the 
prevalence of dysentery througli tlie armament 
proved that the unhealthy season liad already 
commenced. Neither did there appear to be any 
prospect of further employment. No one talked 
of a future enterprise, nor was the slightest ru- 
mour circulated as to the next point of attack. 
The death of General Ross seemed to have disor- 
ganized the whole plan of proceedings, and tlie 
fleet and army rested idle, like a watch without 
its main spring. 

Whilst things were in this state, whilst the 
banks of the rivers continued in our possession, 
and the interior was left unmolested to the Ame- 
ricans, a rash confidence sprang up in the minds 
of all, insomuch that parties of pleasure would 
frequently land without arms, and spend many 
hours on shore. On one of these occasions, se- 
veral officers from the 85th Ke<2iment airreed to 
pass a day together at a farm-house, about a 
quarter of a mile from the stream ; and taking 
with them ten soldiers, unarmed, to row the 
boat, a few sailors, and a young inidsliii»man, 
not more than twelve years of age, they pro- 



i 



206 THE PATUXENT. [CH. 

cceded to put their determination into practice. 
Leaving the men under the command of their 
youthful pilot, to take care of the boat, the officers 
went on to the house ; but they had not remained 
there above an hour, when they were alarmed by 
a shout, which sounded as if it came from the 
river. Looking out, they beheld their party sur- 
rounded by seventy or eighty mounted riflemen ; 
the boat dragged upon the beach, and set on fire. 
Giving themselves up for lost, they continued for 
an instant in a sort of stupor ; but the master of 
the house, to whom some kindness had been 
shown by our people, proved himself grateful, and, 
letting them out by a back door, directed them to 
hide themselves in the wood, whilst he should en- 
deavour to turn their pursuers on a wrong scent. 
As they had nothing to trust to except the honour 
of this American, it cannot be supposed that they 
felt much at ease ; but, seeing no better course 
before them, they resigned themselves to his guid- 
ance, and plunging into the thicket, concealed 
themselves as well as they could among the under- 
wood. In the mean time the American soldiers, 
having secured all that were left behind, except 
the young midshipman, who fled into the wood 
in spite of their fire, divided into two bodies, one 
of which approached the house, whilst the other 
endeavoured to overtake the brave boy. It so 



it 



k 



XV.] THE PATUXENT. 207 

chanced that the party in pursuit passed close to 
the officers in concealment, but by the <T-rcatest 
good fortune failed to observe them. They suc- 
ceeded, however, in catching a ghmpse of the 
midshipman, just as he had gained the water's 
edge, and was pushing off a Hght canoe which 
he had loosened from the stump of a tree. The 
barbarians immediately gave chase, firing at the 
brave lad, and calling out to surrender; but the 
gallant youth paid no attention either to their 
voices or their bullets. Launching his little bark, 
he put to sea with a single paddle, and, regardless 
of the showers of balls which fell about him, re- 
. turned alone and unhurt to the ship. 

Whilst one party was thus employed, the other 
hastened to the house in full expectation of cap- 
turing the British officers. But their host kept 
his word with great fidelity, and, having directed 
his countrymen tow^ards another farm-house at 
some distance from his own, and in an opposite 
quarter from the spot wdiere his guests lay, he 
waited till they were out of sight, and then joined 
his new friends in their lurking-place. Bringing 
with him such provisions as he could muster, he 
advised them to keep quiet till dark, when, their 
pursuers having departed, he conducted them to 
the river, supplied them with a large canoe, and 
sent them off in perfect safety to the fleet. 



(I 



208 THE POTOMAC. [CH. 

On reaching their ship, they found the 85th 
Ecgiment under arms, and preparing to land, for 
the purpose of either releasing their comrades 
from captivity, or inflicting exemplary punish- 
ment upon the farmer by whose treachery it was 
supposed that they had suffered. But when the 
particulars of his behaviour were related, the latter 
alternative was at once abandoned; and it was 
determined to force a dismissal of the captives, by 
advancing up the country', and laying waste every 
thing with hre and sword. The whole of the light 
brigade was accordingly carried on shore, and 
halted on the beach, whilst a messenger was sent 
forward to demand back the prisoners. Such, 
however, was the effect of his threatening, that 
the demand was at once complied with, and they 
returned on board without having committed any 
ravages, ^or marched above two miles from the 
boats. 

Besides this trifling debarkation, another little 
excursion was made by the second and third bri- 
gades, the Ught troops being left most unaccount- 
ably on board of ship. Colonel Brook, having 
heard that an encampment was formed a few miles 
from the left bank of the Potomac, determined, 
if possible, to come up with and engage the force 
there stationed. With this view, two brigades 
were landed on the night of the 4th of October, 



XV.] JAMES rivl:r. 2(i9 

and pushed forward at a brisk pace ; but tlic cnc-iny 
being- on the alert, had timely notice of the move- 
ment, and retired ; by Avhich means our j)eo|)lc 
returned on the 5lh, without effcctino- anytliiiiir. 

By this time the whole fleet was once more col- 
lected together, and crowded the Potomac witli 
their keels. The Diadem being an old ship and 
a bad sailer, it was determined to remove from 
her the troops which she had formerly carried, to 
All her with American prisoners, and to send lier 
to England. The Menelaus was likewise de- 
spatched with such officers and soldiers as required 
the benefit of their native air to complete the cure 
of their wounds; and the rest, o-cttinir under 
v/eigh on the Gth, stood directly towards the 
mouth of the Chesapeake. When we reached 
the James River, we anchored, and were joined 
by an American schooner bearing a flag of truce. 
She brouii'ht with her Colonel Thornton, Lieu- 
tenant- Colonel Wood, with the rest of the oflicers 
and men who had been left behind at Bladens- 
bur"', and, beinir under the i^^-ii^^^i^^ ^^ Commo- 
dore Barney, that gentleman was enabled to dis- 
charge his trust even to the very letter. 

It may readily be supposed that the meeting 
between friends thus restored to eacli other was 
very agreeable. But there was another source 
of comfort which this arrival communicated, of 



210 THE CHESAPEAKE. [CH. 

greater importance than tlie pleasure bestowed 
upon individuals. In Colonel Thornton we felt 
that we had recovered a dashing and enterprising 
officer ; one as well calculated to lead a corps of 
light troops, and to guide the advance of an army, 
as any in the service. On the whole, therefore, 
the American schooner was as welcome as if she 
had been a first-rate man-of-war, filled with rein- 
forcements from England. 

The wounded being now sent off, and Colonel 
Wood among the number, the remainder of the 
fleet again set sail, and reached the mouth of the 
bay without interruption. Here they were met 
by a frigate and two brigs, which spoke to the 
Admiral, and apparently communicated some im- 
portant intelligence ; for we immediately put 
about, and stood once more up the Chesapeake. 
The wind, however, blew with great violence, 
and directly against us. After beating about, 
therefore, for some time, without making any 
progress, we turned our heads towards the ocean, 
and flying between the Capes with amazing velo- 
city, stood out to sea, directing our course to- 
wards the vS.S.E.; and proceeding at the rate of 
seven miles an hour under bare poles. The 
sea ran tremendously high, and the sky was 
dark and dreary ; insomuch, that by a landsman 
the gale might safely be accounted a storm. 



XV.] AT SEA. 211 

Under these circumstances, the ship rolliii£r as if 
she would dip her top-masts in tlie water, and 
the waves breaking in at the hack windows of 
the cabin, nothine: remained to be done but to (H) 
to bed. Thither most of us accordingly repaired, 
and holding ourselves in our berths by clinging 
to the posts, we amused ourselves by watching 
the motions of stools^ books, trunks, and other 
articles, as they floated majestically from one side 
of the cabin to the other. But the effects of the 
gale were not, in every respect, ludicrous. Two 
small schooners, which had been captured at 
Alexandria and converted into tenders, foun- 
dered and went down, witho\it an opportunity 
being afforded of saving an individual of their 
crews. 

At length the wind began to moderate, and on 
the 18th there was a dead calm. In point of com- 
fort, however, I cannot say that much change was 
experienced; for, though the gale had ceased, the 
swell still continued ; and the motion produced b) 
a heavy sea after a storm is even more disagree- 
able than that occasioned by the storm itself. 
But on this day the minds of all were set at ease, 
as to the place whither we were going, a tele- 
graph signal being made to steer for Jamaica. It 
was likewise vmderstood that we should be there 
joined by strong reinforcements, and proceed upon 



212 AT SEA. [CH. 

a secret expedition against some place on the 
southern borders of the United States. 

The cahn which had succeeded the storm did 
not last long, for on the 19th a fair breeze sprang 
np, and sent us, at a moderate and agreeable 
rate, upon our course. The heat, however, was 
most oppressive ; even awnings being unable to 
afford sufficient shelter. We were fast approach- 
ing the tropic of Cancer, and every day expe- 
rienced a greater degree of sultriness; till at 
length, on the 25th, we crossed that imaginary 
boundary. Here we were visited, according to 
custom, by Neptune and his wife; and, as the 
ceremony of shaving may be unknown to some of 
my readers, I shall beg leave to relate the par- 
ticulars of that operation. 

A clever active seaman, dressed up grotesquely 
in party-coloured rags, adorned with a long beard 
made of the stuff which sailors call spun-yarn, 
and armed with a tri-pronged harpoon, per- 
sonates the God of the Ocean. Another sea- 
man, arrayed in like manner, except that, instead 
of a beard, he wears an hideous mask, performs 
the part of the lady. These are attended by a 
troop of sea- gods and nymphs, similarly equipped ; 
and advancing from the bow of the vessel, as 
if just stepped on board, they come forward to 
the mainmast, and summon before them all such 



XV.] AT SFA. , 213 

persons as have never sworn the oaths, or pre- 
\iously visited their capital. At the foot of the 
mast is placed a large tub full of sea-water, and 
covered by a piece of canvass, which is held tltrjit 
by four of their attendants. Upon this unsteady 
throne is the luckless wight, whom they desi<;n 
to initiate, compelled to sit ; and being ashed 
several questions, which he cannot answer, and 
taking several oaths, very much resembling those 
said to be administered at Highgate, Neptune 
proceeds to confer upon him the honour of filia- 
tion, by rather an extraordinary process. Two 
of the sea-nymphs, generally tall stout fellows, 
pinion his arms to his sides ; and another, bring- 
ing a bucket filled with grease and slops from 
the kitchen, sets it down at his godship's feet, 
putting a small painting brush into his hand. 
Neptune now dips his brush into the filth, and 
proceeds to spread a lather over the face of the 
novice, taking care to ask questions during tlie 
Avhole process ; and if the adopted be simple 
enough to reply, the brush is instantly thrust 
into his mouth. As soon as a sufficient quantity 
of grease is laid upon the face, Neptvme seizes a 
piece of rusty iron, generally the broken lioop 
of some water-cask, with which he scrapes off all 
that has been applied. If the novice take all 



214 AT SEA. [CH. 

this patiently, his face is washed, and he is per- 
mitted to descend from his throne in peace ; but 
if he lose his temper, which most men are apt 
to do, a bucket of sea-water is poured upon his 
head. If this be sufficient to cool his m-ath, he 
suffers no more ; but if it only increase his indig- 
nation, bucket after bucket is emptied over him, 
and, at last, the holders of the sail-cloth suddenly 
retiring, he is plunged, overhead, into the tub. 
To crown all, the unfortunate wretch who has en- 
dured these miseries is fined by his tormentor in 
a gallon of rum ; a fine which the force of custom 
compels him to pay. It must be confessed that 
this is a barbarous amusement, much resembling 
that of the boys, in the fable of the boys and the 
frogs. Though very agreeable to those who act, 
and to the lookers on, it is not so to him that 
suffers. 

In this manner many persons were treated, till 
at length Neptune, growing weary from the num- 
ber of novices, was content to admit the rest to 
the privileges of initiation, on condition that the 
fines should be punctually paid ; an agreement 
into which most of us very thankfully entered. 

Next morning, the first object which met our 
eyes was the land of Caycos island. We were so 
close to the shore, when daylight discovered it. 



XV.] THE WEST INDIES. 215 

that had the wind been at all adverse, we must 
unquestionably have struck; but being assisted by 
a fair and gentle breeze, the ships put about im- 
mediately, and escaped the danger. Standinc^ out 
to sea, the fleet now doubled the promontory, and 
steering round by the other side, sailed on without 
losing sight of the land, till late in the evening. 

On the following day, a signal was made from 
the Admiral's ship, that the Golden Fleece trans- 
port, under convoy of the Volcano bomb, should 
proceed to Port Royal, whilst the rest of the fleet 
held their course towards Negril bay. These two 
vessels accordingly set all sail, and pushed for- 
ward by themselves ; the others keeping on at a 
more moderate rate, that none might stray from 
the convov : for the West India seas at this time 
swarmed with American privateers, and it was of 
great consequence to keep the store-ships and 
heavy transports in the middle of the squadron. 

It so chanced that I took my passage in one of 
the two ships which proceeded forward by them- 
selves. The wind was fair, and we made gi-eat pro- 
gress, insomuch that before dark the liigh land of 
St. Domingo on one side, and the mountains of 
Cuba on the other, were discernible. In spite of 
the heat, therefore, our voyage soon became truly 
delightful. Secure of getting on under the influence 



21G THE WEST I^'DIES. [cH. 

of the trade winds, we had nothing to distract our 
thoughts, or keep us from feasting our eyes upon 
the glorious shores of these two islands ; whilst in 
addition to the sight of land, which of itself was 
chcerino-, we were amused with water-spouts, ap- 
parently playing about us in every direction. One 
of these, however, began to form within a little 
distance of the ship, and as they are dangerous 
as well as interesting, a cannon was got ready to 
break it before it should reach us. But it did not 
complete its formation, though I cannot tell why ; 
for, after one spout had risen into the air some 
heia'ht, and another bent down from the clouds, to 
meet it, they were suddenly carried away in dif- 
ferent directions, and fell into the sea with the 
noise of a cataract. 

Among other sources of amusement, our atten- 
tion was drawn, on the 29th, to a shark, which 
made its appearance at the stern of the vessel. A 
strong hook was immediately prepared, and baited 
with a piece of salt pork, which, being thrown 
over, was instantly gulped by the voracious mon- 
ster. But, as soon as he felt the pain occasioned 
by the hook in his jaws, he plunged towards the 
bottom of the sea with such violence, as to render 
the very taffarel hot, by the rapidity of the cord 
gliding over it. Having permitted him to go a 



XV.] THE WEST INDIES. 217 

certain length, lie was again hauled \ip to the 
surface, where he remained without offerln«»- fur- 
ther resistance, till a boat was lowered, and a 
strong noose thrown over his head. Beino- thus 
made fast to the gunwale of the boat, he was 
brought round to the gangway, when the end 
of the noose being cast over the main-yard, he was 
lifted out of the sea and swung upon tlie ship's 
deck. Hitherto he had suffered quietly enough, 
in apparent stupefaction from the pain of liis 
jaw; but he began now to convince us that nei- 
ther life nor strength had deserted him ; lashing 
his tail with such violence as speedily to clear 
the quarter-deck, and biting in the most furious 
manner at everything within his rea^h. One of 
the sailors, however, who seemed to understand 
these matters more than his comrades, took an 
axe, and watching his opportunity, at one blow 
chopped off his tail. He was now perfectly harm- 
less, unless, indeed, one had chosen to thrust one's 
hand into his mouth; and the same sailor ac- 
cordingly proceeded to lay him open, and to take 
out his entrails. And now it was that the tenacity 
of life, peculiar to these animals, displayed itself 
After his heart and bowels were taken out, tlic 
shark still continued to exhibit proofs of anima- 
tion, by biting Avith as much force as ever, at a 

L 



2L8 



THE WEST INDIES. 



[CH. 



bag of carpenter's tools that happened to he 
within his reach. • 

Being cut up, he was distributed in portions 
among the soldiers and ship's crew. The tail 
part only, was reserved as the chief delicacy for 
our cabin, which, though dry and hard, with little 
flavour or taste, was on the present occasion con- 
sidered as agreeable food, because it was fresh. 



XVI. 1 



j' THE WEST INDIES. 219 



CHAPTER XVI. 

But what I principally relished, in this part of 
our voyage, was the exquisite beauty of its night- 
scenery. To an inhabitant of Great Britain, the 
splendour of a night- scene in these climates is 
altogether unknown. Shining broad and full iti 
a sky perfectly cloudless, the moon sends forth a 
clear and mellow lustre, little inferior, in point of 
brilliancy, to the full twilight in England. By 
this means you never lose sight of land, either by 
night or day, as long as your course lies between 
Cuba and Saint Domingo ; whilst the delicious 
coolness, which follows the setting of the sun, 
tempts you, in spite of all the whispers of pru- 
dence, to expose yourself to dews and damps, 
rather than forego the pleasures of vdiich they 
are the bane. Besides, you have constantly the 
satisfaction of observing yourself move steadily 
on at the most airreeable of all rates, about live 
or six miles an hour ; a satisfaction far from 
triflino; in a sea-hfe. Then the ocean is so 
smooth, that scarcely a ripple is seen to break 
the moon-beams as they fall; whilst the quiet 

l2 



I 



220 THE WEST INDIES. [CH. 

dash of little waves against the ship's side, and 
the rushing noise occasioned by the moving of 
her bow through the water, produce altogether 
an effect which may, without affectation, be termed 
absolutely refreshing. It was my common prac- 
tice to sit for hours after night-fall upon the taf- 
farel, and strain my eyes in the attempt to dis- 
tinguish objects on shore, or strange sails in the 
distance. 

It happened that, on the 30th, I was tempted 
to indulge in this idle but bewitching employ- 
ment, even beyond my usual hour for retiring, 
and did not quit the deck till towards two o'clock 
in the morning of the 31st. I had just entered 
my cabin, and was beginning to undress, when a 
cry from above, of an enemy in chase, drew me 
instantly to the quarter-deck. On looking astern, 
I perceived a vessel making directly after us, and 
was soon convinced of the justice of the alarm, by 
a shot which whistled over our heads. All hands 
were now called to quarters, the small sails were 
taken in, and having spoke to our companion, 
and made an agreement as to position, both ships 
cleared for action. But the stransrer seeing his 
signal obeyed with so much alacrity, like\vise 
slackened sail, and, continuing to keep us in 
view, followed our wake without approaching 
nearer. In this state things continued till day- 



XYI.] THE WEST INDIES. 221 

break, we still holding our course, and he hani^in*^ 
back ', but as soon as it was light, he set more 
sail and ran to windward, moving just out of gun- 
shot, in a parallel direction with us. It was now 
necessary to fall upon some plan of deceiving him, 
otherwise there was little probability that he would 
attack. In the bomb, indeed, the height of the 
bulwark served to conceal some of the men ; but 
in the transport no such screen existed. The 
troops were, therefore, ordered below, and only 
the sailors, a few blacks, and the officers, kept the 
deck. The same expedient was likewise adopted, 
in part, by Captain Price, of the Volcano ; and in 
order to give to his ship a still greater resem- 
blance than it already had to a merchantman, he 
displayed an old faded scarlet ensign, and drew 
up his fore and mainsail in what sailors term a 
lubberly manner. 

As yet the stranger had shown no colours, but 
from her build and rigging, there was little doubt 
as to her country. She was a beautiful schooner, 
presenting seven ports on a side, and apparently 
crowded with men, — circumstances wdiich innne- 
diately led us to beheve that she was an American 
privateer. The Volcano, on the other hand, was 
a clumsy strong-built ship, carrying twelve guns ; 
and the Golden Fleece mounted eight ; so tliat, in 
point of artillery, the advantage was rather on our 



222 THE WEST INDIES. [CH. 

side; but the American's sailing was so much 
superior to that of either of us, that this advan- 
tajre was more than counterbalanced. 

Having dodged us till eight o'clock, and recon- 
noitred with great exactness, the stranger began 
to steer gradually nearer and nearer, till at length 
it was judged that she had arrived within range. 
A gun was accordingly fired from the Volcano, 
and another from the transport, the balls from 
both of which passed over her, and fell into the 
sea. Finding herself thus assaulted, she instantly 
threw off her disguise, and hung out an American 
ensign ; when, putting her helm up, she poured a 
broadside, with a volley of musquetry, into the 
transport ; and ran alongside of the bomb, which 
sailed to windward. 

As soon as her flag was displayed, and her in- 
tention of attacking discerned, all hands were 
ordered up, and she received two well-directed 
broadsides from the Volcano, as well as a warm 
salute from the Golden Fleece. But such was the 
celerity of her motion, that she was alongside of 
the bomb in less time than can be imagined; and 
actually dashing her bow against the other, at- 
tempted to carry her by boarding. Captain Price, 
however, was ready to receive them. The boarders 
were at their posts in an instant, and the enemy 
discovering, when it was too late, the mistake into 



XVI.] THE WEST INDIES. 223 

which he had fallen, left about twenty of his men 
upon the Volcano's bowsprit, all of whom were 
throAvn into the sea; and filling his sails, sheered 
off with the same speed with which he had borne 
down. In attempting to escape, he unavoidably 
fell somewhat to leeward, and exposed the whole 
of his deck to the fire of the transport. A tre- 
mendous discharge of musketry saluted him as he 
passed ; and it was almost laughable to witness 
the haste with which his crew hurried l^elow, leav- 
ing none upon deck except such as were abso- 
lutely wanted to work his vessel. 

The Volcano had by this time filled, and gave 
chase, firing with great precision at the privateer's 
yards and rigging, in the hope of disabling him. 
But as fortune would have it, none of liis important 
ropes or yards were cut ; and we had the mortifica- 
tion to see him, in a few minutes, beyond our reach. 

In this affair, a marine officer and two men 
were killed on board the bomb ; and some of the 
tackling was shot away. The transport sutfcred 
nothing in killed or wounded, having been in a 
great degree protected from the enemy's fire by 
her commodore; and only one rope, not, I be- 
lieve, an important one, was destroyed. 

The battle having ended, and the chase being 
given up as fruitless, we continued our course 
without any other adventure; and before dark. 



224 THE WEST INDIES. [CH, 

were able to distinguish the blue mountains of 
Jamaica. St. Domingo and Cuba had both dis- 
appeared, and this was now the only land visible ; 
but it was not till the first of November that we 
could obtain a distinct view of it. Then, indeed, 
we found ourselves within a few miles of the shore, 
and seldom has landscape appeared more attrac- 
tive to the eyes of a voyager, than the romantic 
shores of Jamaica now appeared to ours. 

Jamaica is in general a bold and mountainous 
island, but on this side it is peculiarly so. It ap- 
peared to me that even the Pyrenees, magnificent 
as they are, were not to be compared, in point of 
altitude, to the hills now before me ; and early in 
the morning, while yet the mists hung upon their 
summits and concealed them, no prospect can be 
imagined more sublime than that which they pre- 
sented. It was, in truth, a glorious scene ; and 
as the wind blew light and uncertain, we were 
permitted, from the slowness of the ship's pro- 
gress, to enjoy it to the full. Towards evening, 
indeed, the breeze died entirely away, which com- 
pelled us to anchor about eight miles from the 
harbour of Port Royal. 

In spite of the little rest which I had procured 
during the two preceding nights, having sat up till 
an early hour this morning, to watch several strange 
sails that hovered about us, I could not bring 



XVI.] THE WEST INDIES. 225 

myself to quit the deck till after midnight, so 
beautiful, in all respects, were the objects around 
me. The moon shone with her accustomed bril- 
liancy, and exhibited every crag and tree upon 
the land, changed and confounded in shape, but 
still plainly ; whilst the perfume, borne off upon 
the breeze, was odoriferous in the highest degree. 
The sound of the waves, likewise, breaking upon 
the rocks, and the occasional cry of seamen, as 
they adjusted ropes and sails, together with the 
sight of several vessels which took advantage of 
tlie night-wind and stood to sea, with canvass 
glittering in the moon-beams, produced so delight- 
ful a combination, as completely riveted me to my 
seat ; nor was it without much reluctance that 
I at length yielded to the drowsy god, and de- 
scended to my cabin. 

Next morning, the ship got under weigh at an 
early hour, but, owing to the unsteadiness of the 
breeze, it was ten o'clock before we made any sa- 
tisfactory progress. As we approached the bay 
which forms the harbour of Port Koyal, a novel 
and jjleasing sight presented itself. The hills 
dying gradually awa}^ gave place to gentle slopes 
and green knolls, till, towards the entrance, the 
coast became perfectly level. Pushing forward, 
we soon found ourselves in a narrow channel be- 
tween two projecting headlands, beautiftdiy orna- 

l5 



226 PORT ROYAL. [CH. 

mented with cocoa-nut trees, and so near to each 
other, that I could with ease have thrown a biscuit 
from the ship's deck upon either. At the extre- 
mity of these necks, just where the bay begins its 
sweep, stand two well-built forts, bristling with 
cannon ; and at the opposite side may be seen a 
third, ready to sink whatever hostile fleet should 
be fortunate enough to force an entrance. But 
these were not the most striking parts of the scene. 
The water in this strait is remarkably clear, and 
exhibits with great distinctness the tops and chim- 
neys of houses at the bottom. It will be recol- 
lected, that many years ago, an earthquake not 
only demolished great part of the town of Port 
Royal, but likewise covered it with the sea ; by 
which means, the site of the harbour was com- 
pletely changed, and that which was formerly dry 
land, and a town, became part of the entrance of 
the bay. 

Having doubled the. promontories, a rich and 
extensive prospect meets the eye. You find your- 
self, as it were, in a large inland lake, the banks of 
which are covered with plantations of sugar-cane, 
gi'oves of cocoa-nut and plantain trees, and other 
woods pecuhar to these regions, beautifully inter- 
spersed with seats and villages. On your right, is 
the town of Port Royal, lying almost on a level 
with the water, and strongly protected by fortifica- 



XVI.] KINGSTON. 227 

tions, whilst in various other directions are castles 
and batteries, adding an appearance of security 
to that of plenty. The banks, though not lofty, 
slope gently upAvards, with occasional falls or 
glens, and the back-ground is composed in gene- 
ral of the rugged tops of distant mountains. 

Having waited till the ship dropped anclior, I 
put myself into a sort of bai'gc rowed by four ne- 
groes, and proceeded to Kingston. Though not 
the capital of the island, Kingston is the largest 
town in Jamaica. It stands upon the brink of a 
frith, about nine miles above Port Eoyal ; and 
thence enjoys all the advantages of the chief mart 
in this trading country. Like most other mercan- 
tile seaports, it is built without much regard to 
regularity. The streets, though wide, are in gene- 
ral the reverse of elegant, being composed almost 
entirely of wooden houses, and by no means re- 
markable for cleanliness. Of public buildings, it 
possesses none worthy of notice. Its inns are, liuw- 
ever, excellent ; and thoudi ccrtainlv not mode- 
rate in their charges, they are at least more so 
than those of Bermuda. In a word, it is exactly 
such a tow^n as one would expect to find, holding 
the principal commercial rank in a colony where 
men's minds seldom aspire be3'ond the occui)ations 
of trade. 

Of the intense heat in this place, none but those 



223 Kl^GSTON. [CH. 

who have experienced it can form a notion. It is 
impossible to walk out with any comfort, except 
before the sun has risen, or after he has set ; and 
even within doors, with the aid of thorough 
draughts, and all the other expedients usually 
adopted on such occasions, it is with the utmost 
difficulty that you can contrive to keep your 
blood in a moderate degree of temperature. In 
the town itself, therefore, few of the higher classes 
reside ; the closeness produced by a proximity of 
houses being in this climate pecuharly insupport- 
able. These inhabit for the most part little villas, 
called Pens, about three or four miles in the coun- 
try ; the master of each family generally retain- 
ing a suite of apartments, or perhaps an entire 
mansion, in some open street, for his own use, 
when business obliges him to exchange the com- 
fort of fresh air for the suffocating atmosphere 
of Kingston. Towards the outskirts, indeed, in 
one direction, a few genteel famiUes inhabit one 
or two handsome houses, surrounded by extensive 
gardens and shrubberies ; but these are not nume- 
rous, and they are so far removed from the heart 
of the town, as to be in great measure beyond the 
influence of its smoke and other nuisances. 

During our sojourn in this place, we received 
the most hospitable attention from several persons 
of the first distinction. Balls and other entertain- 



XVI.] KINGSTON. 220 

ments were given, at which all the l)cauty and 
fashion in this part of the island attcndi'd ; and 
for some days I had little leisure or inclination 
for any other pursuit than the enjoyment of 
civilized pleasure; a pursuit which, from lonuj 
disuse, possessed more than ordinary zest. But, 
at length, having seen as much of Kingston and 
its vicinity as I desired to see, I determined to 
take advantage of the opportunity which fortune 
had placed within my reach, and to make an ex- 
cursion into the heart of the Blue Mountains. 
To this I was additionally induced by an invi- 
tation from an old friend to visit him at Annotto 
Bay; and as, along with his letter, he sent a 
horse for my own conveyance, and a mule for the 
conveyance of my baggage, no dilliculty respect- 
ing a mode of being transported stood in the way 
to obstruct my design. 

Having made up my mind to this journey, I 
waited till sun-set, on the 9th, when, starting in 
the cool of the evening, I reached a little tavern 
called the Plum-tree, about half an hour after 
dark. My ride carried me through an open and 
fertile country, covered with sugar-canes, codec* 
and such other plants as are cultivated in the low 
grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one. nut 
more than twelve miles in extent; but I was 
forced to halt where I did, because 1 had gained 



230 JAMAICA. [CH. 

the foot of the mountains ; and if I had passed 
the Plum-tree, well known as a sort of half-way 
house on such toiu's, I might have travelled all 
night without finding any place of accommodation. 
As darkness set in, one of the beautiful pecu- 
liarities of a tropical climate, wliich I had not pre-* 
piously witnessed, came under my observation. 
The air was tilled with fire flies, which emitting a 
phosphoric light, something similar to the light 
of the glow-worm, only more red and brilliant, 
danced around me like sparks from a smith's anvil, 
when he is beating a bar of red-hot iron. These 
creatures flutter about with a humming noise, and 
frequently settle in large swarms upon branches 
of trees, giving them the semblance of so many 
pieces of timber taken newly out of a fire. When 
1-iewed by day-hght, they are in no way remark- 
able for their elegance, resembling in the shape of 
the body a long beetle, which may be seen in 
the fields after sun- set. without winsfs or scales. 
In colour they are a dingy brown, and, like the 
glow-worm, carry their light in the tail. 

As I had not before chanced to see anything of 
the kind, and forgot at the moment that such an 
insect as the fire-fly existed, I was for a few mi- 
nutes at a loss to what cause to attribute the phe- 
nomenon ; and was at last indebted to my negro 
guide for refreshing my memory on the subject. 



XVI.] THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 2,31 

The effect, however, cannot he conceived, without 
beini^ witnessed. A cluster of two or tliree <;low- 
worms sliine so brilliantly, that they will furnish 
subject for the commendatory eloquence of any 
one fortunate enough to perceive them together ; 
but their brilliancy is as a farthing candle to the 
sun, when compared with that of the fire-fly. Not 
two or three^ but thousands of these creatures 
dance around, filling the air with a wavering and 
uncertain glimmer, of the extreme beauty of 
v>-hich no vrords can convey an adequate con- 
ception. 

Having passed the night at tliis tavern, a small 
cottage kept by a free negro and his "^^-ifc, I rose 
two hours before da^^•n, and prosecuted my journey. 
From the moment I cpitted the Plum-tree, 1 be- 
gan gradually to ascend, till, at day-break, I found 
myself in the midst of the most glorious scenery 
that the imagination of man can conceive. Every 
thins: around was new and romantic. Tlie hills, 
towering into the very sky, were covered I'rom 
top to bottom with the richest herbage, and the 
most luxuriant wood. Rarely could a barren crag 
be discerned, and when it did appear, it was only 
a sharp point, or a bold projection pushing itself 
forward from the midst of the thickest foHage. 
But what to me formed the most bewitching part 
of the prospect, was the elegance of the trues, and 



232 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. [CH, 

their perfect dissimilitude to any which I had 
previously beheld. The cocoa-nut and plantain 
were mingled with the wild pine and lime-tree ; 
while the cashew and wild coffee, with numberless 
other shrubs, loaded at once with fruit and blos- 
som, formed the underwood to these graceful 

forests. 

As yet I had been favoured with a wide and 

good road, but now it began gradually to narrow, 

till at last it ended in a path little more distinct 

than the sheep-tracks over the hills in Scotland. 

Winding along the sides of the mountains, it 

brought me frequently to spots, where the wood 

parting, as if artificially, displayed deep ravines, to 

look down which, without becoming dizzy, required 

no little strength of head ; whilst above, the same 

hill continued to stretch itself to a height, far 

beyond any I had before gazed upon. Presently 

after, it conducted me gently down into valleys 

completely shut out from the rest of the world ; 

and as I descended, I could hear the roar of 

water, though neither the stream nor the bottom 

of the glen could be perceived. On one of these 

occasions, after passing through a thick grove, I 

beheld a river of some width, dashing: alone: the 

glen, and chafing so as to produce the noise of a 

mighty waterfall. Towards the brink of this 

river my guide conducted me ; when, plunging in. 



XVI.] THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 233 

we made our way, with some difficulty, to the 
opposite bank, and again began to ascend. 

For several hours, the same scenery surrounded 
me, only varied by the occasional appearance of 
clustres of negro huts. Than these, it is impos- 
sible to imagine any species of huts or dwellings 
more beautifully picturesque. They are con- 
structed of strong limbs of trees, thatched over 
with straw, and usually ending in a cone ; having 
no windows, but only two, or sometimes four doors, 
for the purpose of admitting a free current of air. 
The spots chosen for then* erection, are generally 
small platforms or terraces in the sides of the hills. 
A little path, similar to that along which I tra- 
velled, winds down from their doors to the bottom 
of the valley, and conducts to the edge of the 
river, from whence the inhabitants are supplied 
"vvith water. Other tracks likewise branch off in 
different directions, some towards the summit, and 
others along the sides of the mountains ; leading, 
probably, to the fields or spots where the inhabit- 
ants labour. These huts have no chimney, but 
only a large hole in the roof, to give free passage 
to the smoke ; and I could perceive, by its rise at 
present, that fires were now burning. 

It would be labour lost, were I to attempt any 
more minute description of this delightful journey. 
Every step I took presented something new, and 



234 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. [CH. 

sometliing more grand and sublime than I had 
just quitted ; whilst the continual fording of the 
swollen river, (for I crossed the same stream no 
fewer than eight-and-twenty times,) gave an addi- 
tional interest to the scene, arising from the sense 
of danger. The rainy season having just ended, 
this stream, the Wag-water, a most appropriate 
name, had not as yet returned to its natural size ; 
but at the fords, which in general would not cover 
a horse's knees, the depth was such as to moisten 
the saddle-girths. So great a quantity of water, 
in a furious mountain-torrent, pouring on with all 
the violence produced by a steep descent, occa- 
sioned no slight pressure upon my steed ; nor was 
it without considerable floundering on his part, 
and some anxiety on mine, that once or twice we 
succeeded in making good our passage. 



XVII.] . 235 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Noon Avas approaching -wlien my sooty feUow- 
travellcr directed my attention to a neat cottage, 
romantically situated on the top of a low mound, 
which stood alone in the middle of stupendous 
mountains. It commanded one of the most ex- 
quisite prospects that fancy can represent. A sort 
of glen surrounded it on ev^ery side, richly and 
beautifully wooded ; behind, rose some of the most 
lofty of the blue mountains ; on the right there 
was an opening, which admitted a fine -v-iew of 
Annotto Bay ; whilst in the other direction, the 
hills sloping gradually upwards^ presented an in- 
clined plane, covered with fields of sugar-cane, and 
ending, at a considerable distance, in one abrupt 
and broken ridge. 

The cottage in question was the residence of 
my friend, and the resting-place whither my steps 
were turned ; nor did I experience any regret at 
finding myself so near my journey's end. The 
heat had for some time been almost intole- 
rable, and having eaten nothing since the night 



236 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. [CH. 

before, nature began to cry out for repose and 
repletion; and, in truth, the welcome which I 
experienced, was of a nature to take away all 
desire of wandering farther. We had not met for 
several years, — not, indeed, since I was a child, — 
and in the interval, some melancholy changes had 
occurred in the family of my host ; but he re- 
ceived me with the cordial hospitality which a 
warm heart produces, and forgot his private sor- 
rows for a time, that he might not throw a damp 
upon my enjoyments. 

The remainder of this day I spent, as a power- 
ful sensation of fatigue warned me to spend it, 
within doors ; but on the following morning I set 
out at an early hour, for the purpose of gratifying 
my curiosity on a number of points which had 
frecjuently exercised it. In this excursion, and 
indeed in all the excursions which I undertook 
during my residence at his Pen, my friend accom- 
panied me ; and an excellent and most intelligent 
guide he proved to be. We made the tour of 
several estates, saw the process of making sugar, 
visited the sugar and coffee plantations, and in- 
spected several hospitals, with one of which each 
estate is supplied, for the accommodation and cure 
of sick negroes. In the course of these rambles, 
1 made it my business to inquire into the condition 
and treatment of the slave population ; inspecting 



XVII.] THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 237 

their huts, and even examining their provisions; 
and I frankly confess that, thouc^h I hei^an my 
researches under the influence of as many ])re- 
judices as, on such a subject, are wont to be en- 
tertained by Englishmen in general, tlic result of 
the whole was to convince me that I liad done 
glaring injustice to the character of the Jamaica 
planters, as well as fostered notions of the wretch- 
edness of the negroes, utterly and iniquitously 
erroneous. It is no business of mine, and, if it 
were, this is no proper place to take part in what 
has of late been termed the West- Indian contro- 
versy; but, as an eye-witness, I may venture to 
speak out on one point, by affii-ming, that a count- 
less proportion of the stories with which the 
British public is amused, touching tlie barbarous 
treatment of slaves b}' owners and overseers, arc, 
if not absolute fables, at all events gross exagge- 
rations. I am aware that my residence in the 
island was too brief, and my acquaintance witli it 
too limited, to entitle my opinions to the weight 
which a more protracted sojourn might have ob- 
tained for them ; but it is but justice to state, that 
whilst I was there, I enjoyed opportunities of 
seeino: the ne^ro at all times, and under all cir- 
cumstances, such as few casual visiters can boast 
of. My host was not a planter, but a medical 
practitioner ; and one prejudiced rather against 



23S THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. [CH. 

the slave system than in favour of it : there was 
therefore no disposition on his part to cast dust 
into my eyes, or to present to them only the 
bright side of the picture. Under his guidance, 
I beheld the negro at work in the fields, in the 
bosom of his family, in the sick ward, and at 
market ; and I never saw him other than a con- 
tented and light-hearted being. No doubt there 
are instances of cruelty on the part of overseers 
in Jamaica, exactly as there are instances of 
tyranny on the part of parish officers and county 
magistrates in England ; but had these been as 
numerous, or as flagrant, as they are represented 
to be, I cannot doubt but that something of the 
kind must have passed under my eyes, even within 
the space of one week. No such event, however, 
took place ; and, as far as I could learn, no such 
event was to be expected. 

Far be it from me to stand forward as the ad- 
vocate of personal bondage in the abstract, — it is 
a grievous e\-il; and wherever men are so far 
ci\ilized as to render its abolition desirable, it is 
an evil wliich ought to be abolished. But it is an 
evil of long standing, authorized in the Bible, 
and therefore, we may presume, not without its 
counterbalancing benefits. He, therefore, who 
would seek, at all hazards and under all circum- 
stances, to dissolve the tie which binds a master 



XVII.] THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 23f) 

to his slave, and a slave to liis master — wliilst ho 
would be doing that which the Apostles never 
did, and which Christians are nowhere commanded 
to do — would run no slight hazard of causing a 
quantity of mischief to both parties, for which 
the benefits bestowed upon either would not com- 
pensate. With respect to our o\vn colonies, in 
particular, it is manifest that the whole matter 
resolves itself into one consideration. If the 
Negroes be in such a state, as that the boon of 
universal freedom would be productive to them of 
universal benefit, by all means let it be bestowed 
at once, even though it be attended by so much 
national expense, as the fair demands of the pro- 
prietors for compensation shall impose upon us. 
If they be not thus situated, let every practicable 
method be adopted to advance them on the scale 
of civilization ; but till they be advanced far be- 
yond their present station, let no false hopes be 
excited, that the moment of their liberation is at 
hand. Many measures for their improvement 
have been adopted since the year 1814, and many 
more are in daily process of adoption ; but it is 
gi-eatly to be apprehended, that mucli of the 
benefit which these measures promised to bring 
about, has been obstructed by the indiscreet zeal 
of those who profess, and probably feel the Hve- 
liest interest in their welfare. 



240 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. [CH. 

Besides adding to my stock of knowledge as to 
the cultivation of the sugar-cane, the making of 
sugar, rum, &c. &c., I had an opportunity of see- 
ing something of the Maroons, or free Negroes, 
who inhabit the mountains. These people dwell 
apart from the European settlers, holding very 
little intercourse with them, though a single Eu- 
ropean generally resides in each of their villages, 
as a sort of chief or magistrate. They struck me 
to be a lazy, indolent, and harmless race of human 
beings; and they formed, in all their habits, a 
strikins: contrast with their enslaved brethren. 
Whilst the latter devote their spare hours to the 
culture of their own little spots, to cudgel-playing, 
dancing, or other gambols, the former appear to 
spend their whole time in a state between sleep- 
ing and waking, at the doors of their huts, or 
under the shelter of trees. Some of the Maroon 
females, I observed, were really handsome, their | 
features being high, and their persons elegantly 
formed ; but in general they differed nothing 
from the other negroes, from whom, indeed, they 
are principally descended. 

I heard that the men carry on a petty trade in 
feathers, but that their principal occupation, at 
least that from which they derive the largest 
emolument, consists in apprehending, and lead- 
ing back to their masters, run-away slaves. For 



XVII.] STONEY HILL. 2H 

their services in this department, they were wont 
to receive a pension from the i^overnnicnt ; and 
they are still, I believe, supplied with muskets 
and ammunition at the expense of the colonial 
authorities. But enough of these details. 

My sojourn in St. Mary's having extended con- 
siderably beyond the limits which prudence would 
have imposed upon it, I set out on the morning 
of the 13th, on my return towards Kingston. 
The country through wdiich I travelled differed 
in many respects from that which I had crossed in 
my way hither : it was in general less wild, and 
less mountainous ; but it possessed features of 
striking beauty, rich corn-fields being interspersed 
amidst graceful forests, and here and there a wild 
hill-side rising as a contrast to both. The most re- 
markable variety, and not perhaps the least agree- 
able, was, however, to be found in the absence of 
the Wag-water ; my guide having led me in a di- 
rection^ by wdiich its tortuous course was avoided. 

As it was late before I started, my ride soon 
became toilsome on account of the heat, and I was 
fain to stop short for the night at a place called 
Stoney Hill, about twelve miles from Kingston. 
Here I was hospitably entertained by the officers of 
the 102nd Regiment ; and, rising at an early hour 
on the following morning, I contrived to complete 
my journey before breakfast. And it was well 

M 



242 PORT ROYAL. [CH. 

that no further time had been expended in my pro- 
gress. The ships, I found, were preparing to put 
to sea ; the stock ^^^as all embarked, and the crews 
on board ; nothing' therefore remained for me but 
to follow the general example, and to establish 
myself with as little delay as possible in my cabin. 

In spite of these preparations, the i5th and 
IGth of November both passed away without 
any movement being made. It was, however, my 
custom not to neglect any opportunities which 
chanced to come in my way of viewing strange 
places, and obtaining an acquaintance with strange 
people ; neither on the present occasion did I fail 
to make the most of the interval, by landing and 
wandering over the town of Port Royal. But to 
describe minutely a place so little deserving of 
description, would hardly repay me for the labour 
of writing, or the reader for the toil of perusing 
what 1 write. It is sufficient to observe, that 
except to him who takes delight in beholding a 
well-constructed military work, there is nothing in 
the busy, bustling town of Port Royal which will 
at all compensate for the heat and fatigue which 
he must undergo, who, like myself, traverses its 
streets and lanes at noon-day. 

The long looked-for signal to weigh was hung 
out at last; and at an early hour on the 17th we 
put to sea. Our point of destination was Negril 



XVII.] NEGRIL BAY. 243 

Bay, the appointed place of rendezvous for the 
whole armament ; and we reached it without the 
occurrence of mishap or adventure on the cven- 
ins: of the 1 9th. We found here a laro^e fleet 
already assembled ; but tlie horses were all landed, 
many officers were dwelling in tents on the shore, 
and every tiling gave indication that some fur- 
ther delay might be expected. To say the truth, 
I experienced no de2:ree of satisfaction at this 
prospect ; for the point of the island opposite to 
which we now lay was neither rema^rkable for its 
natui'al beauty, nor very thickly inhabited ; and 
had the contrary been the case, I had seen as 
much of Jamaica and its people as I was at all 
desirous to see. Besides, it was impossible not to 
feel, that vv^hatever the object of our expedition 
might be, it was not likely to be furthered by 
this tardy mode of entering upon it; and ru- 
mours already beg?ai to spread abroad, of disco- 
veries incautiously and untimely made. It was, 
therefore, with no slight degree of pleasure, that 
on the morning of the 24th, the topmasts of a 
numerous squadron were seen over the eastern 
promontor}^ in full sail towards us ; and it was 
with still greater dehght, that in a short time, we 
were able to discern the flags of Sir Alexander 
Cochrane and xVdmiral Malcolm floating in the 
breeze. By and by the Tonnant and Royal Oak 

m2 



244 NKGRIL BAY. [CH. 

showed their hulls in the offing; and a short 
while afterwards, these ships, followed by a large 
fleet of troopers and transports, majestically 
entered the bav. As mav be imasfined. our curi- 
osity was strongly excited to learn what reinforce- 
ments they contained, and what intelhgence they 
brought : insomuch, that they had scarcely drop- 
ped anchor when they were boarded from almost 
eyery one of the sliips which they came to join. 

It appeared that this powerful reinforcement 
consisted of the following corps. The 93rd Regi- 
ment, a fine battalion of Highlanders, mustering 
nine hundred bavonets ; six companies of the 95th 
rifle corps : two West India Eegiments, each eight 
hundred strong ; two squadrons of the I4th Dra- 
goons dismounted ; detachments of artillery, rock- 
ets, sappers, and engineers ; recruits for the dif- 
ferent corps already in this part of the world ; 
and though last, not least, Major-General Kcane 
to take upon himself the command of the whole. 
The intelliGfence brouc^ht was hkewise interestinoc, 
for it informed us of the point whither we were 
to proceed; and it was soon known throughout 
the fleet, that the conquest of New Orleans was 
the object in \-iew. 

But before I pursue my narrative further, hav- 
inor arrived, as it were, at a second commencement, 
it mav be well if I state in full the number of 



XVII.] NEGRIL BAY. 245 

men of which the army now consisted. In the first 
place, then, there were the 4th, 44th, and 85th 
Regiments originally dispatched from Bourdcaux, 
and the 24 st, which joined the expedition at Ber- 
muda. These battalions being considerably re- 
duced by past service, could not at present mus- 
ter conjunctly above two thousand two hundred 
men ; and being hkewise deprived of the Marine 
battalion, wliich had fought beside them in the 
Chesapeake, they retained no followers except the 
Artillery, Sappers, Sec. which had accompanied 
them from the first. The whole amount of this 
corps, may, therefore, be estimated at two thou- 
sand five hundred men. 

Without computing the individual strength of 
each detachment now arrived, I will venture to 
fix the aggregate at two thousand five hundred ; 
and thus the whole, taken collectively, ^^ill amount 
to five thousand combatants. That it might some- 
what exceed or fall under this computation, I do 
not deny ; but neither the excess nor deficiency 
could be considerable r and therefore my state- 
ment may be received as correct, with very little 
allowance. 

This, it must be confessed, w^as a formidable 
force, and such as, had all its parts been trust- 
worthv, mio;ht have done much. But on the black 
corps little reliance could be placed, especially if 



246 VEGRIL EAY. [CH. 

the climate should prove colder than was antici- 
pated ,: consequently, there were not more than 
three thousand four hundred men upon whom a 
general could fully depend. 

Tosrether with these forces, were brought out 
abundant stores of ammimition, some clothing for 
the troops, and tents to be used when an opportu- 
nitv should offer. There were also numerous 
additions to the commissariat and medical depart- 
ments : in short, the materiel of the army was 
increased in proportion to its increase in number. 

To find himself in the chief command of the 
army, exceeded the expectation, and perhaps the 
desire, of General Keane. Being a young and 
dashing officer, he had been selected as most fit to 
ser\-e under General Eoss ; and haWns" sailed from 
England before the death of that gallant chief was 
known, he reached ]^Iadeira before his elevation 
was communicated to him. \oung as he was, 
however, his arrival yjroduced much satisfaction 
throuc^hout the armament : for thouofh no one 
entertained a doubt as to the personal courage of 
Colonel Brook, it was felt that a leader of more 
experience was wanted on the present expedition. 

As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had 
anchored, the Bav was covered \\-ith boats, which 
conveyed parties of officers from ship to ship, 
hastening to salute their comrades, and to inquire 



X\-II.] NEGRIL BAY. 247 

into the state of things at home. Greetings and 
hearty embraces were interchans^ed between 
friends thus agam brought together : and a few 
passing ejaculations of sorrow bestowed upon 
tliose who could not now take part in the meeting. 
Many questions were put, relative to persons and 
places in England ; in a word, the day was spent 
in that species of employment, which can be com- 
pletely kno^vn only to those who have been simi- 
larly situated. 



248 [CH. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

JBuT the period granted for such mdulgence was 
not of long duration, for, on the following morn- 
ing, the Tonnant, Ramilies, and two brigs, stood 
to sea, and on the 26th, the rest of the fleet got 
under weigh, and followed the Admiral. It is 
impossible to conceive a finer sea-view than this 
general stir presented. Our fleet amounted now 
to upwards of fifty sail, many of them vessels of 
war, which shaking loose their topsails, and lifting 
their anchors at the same moment, gave to Negril 
Bay an appearance of bustle such as it has seldom 
been able to present. In half an hour all the 
canvass was set, and the ships moved slowly and 
proudly from their anchorage, till, having cleared 
the head-lands, and caught the fair breeze which 
blew without, they bounded over the water with 
the speed of eagles, and long before dark the 
coast of Jamaica had disappeared. 

There is something in rapidity of motion, whe- 
ther it be along a high road, or across the deep, 
extremely elevating; nor was its cff"ectunperccivcd 



XVIII.] AT SEA. 240 

\ 

1 

on tlic present occasion. It is true, tliat there 
were other causes for the high spirits wliicli now 
pervaded the armament, but I question if any 
proved more efficient in their production tlian the 
astonishing rate of our saiUng. Whether the bu- 
siness we were about to undertake wouhl prove 
bloody, or the reverse, entered not into the cal- 
culations of a single individual in the fleet. The 
sole subject of remark was the speed with which 
we got over the ground, and the probability that 
existed of our soon reaching the point of debark- 
ation. The change of climate, likewise, was not 
without its effect in producing pleasurable sensa- 
tions. The farther we got from Jamaica, the 
more cool and agreeable became the atmosphere ; 
from which circumstance we were led to hope that, 
in spite of its soutiiern latitude. New Orleans 
would not be found so oppressively hot as we had 
been taught to expect. 

The breeze continuing without interruption, 
on the 29th we came in sight of the island 
of Grand Cayman. It is a small speck in the 
middle of the sea, lying so near the level of 
the water, as to be unobscrvable at any consi- 
derable distance. Though we passed along with 
prodigious velocity, a canoe nevertheless ventured 
off from the shore, and making its way tlu'ough 
waves which looked as if they would swallow it 

M 5 



250 AT SEA. [CH. 

up, succeeded in reaching our vessel. It contained 
a white man and two negroes, who brought oiF a 
quantity of tine turtle, which they gave us in 
exchange for salt pork ; and so great was the 
value put upon salt provisions, that they bartered 
a pound and a half of the one for a pound of the 
other. To us the exchange was very acceptable, 
and thus both parties remained satisfied with their 
bargain. 

Havins: lain to till our turtle merchants left us^ 
we affain filled and stood our course. The land 
of Cayman w^as soon invisible ; nor was any other 
perceived till the 2nd of December, when the 
western shores of Cuba presented themselves. 
Towards them we now directed the ship's head, 
and reaching in within a few miles of the beach, 
coasted along till we had doubled the promontory, 
which forms one of the jaws of the Mexican Gulf 
Whilst keeping thus close to the shore, our sail 
was more interesting than usual, for, though this 
side of Cuba be low, it is nevertheless picturesque, 
from the abundance of wood with which it is orna- 
mented. There are likewise several points where 
huge rocks rise perpendicularly out of the water, 
presenting the appearance of old baronial castles, 
with their battlements and lofty turrets ; and it 
will easily be believed, that none of these escaped 
our observation. The few^ books which we had 



XVIII.] AT SEA. 251 

broui^lit to sea were all read, many of them twice 
and three times through ; and there now remained 
notliing to amuse, except what the variety of Ihe 
voyage could produce. 

But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, 
and the old prospect of sea and sky again met the 
gaze. There was, however, one circumstance 
from which we experienced a considerable diminu- 
tion of comfort. As soon as we entered the gulf, 
a short disagreeable swell was perceptible ; differ- 
ing in some respects from that in the Bay of 
Biscay, but to my mind infinitely more unpleasant. 
So great was the motion, indeed, that all walking 
was prevented ; but, as we felt ourselves drawing 
every hour nearer-and nearer to the conclusion of 
our miseries, this additional one was borne with- 
out much repining. Besides, we found some 
amusement in watching, from the cabin windows, 
the quantity and variety of weed with whicli the 
surface of the gulf is covered. The current being 
here extremely rapid, the weed sails continually 
in the same direction, — that is to say, it goes 
round by the opposite side of Cuba, towards the 
banks of Newfoundland, and is carried sometimes 
as far as Bermuda, and even to the Western 
Isles. 

It is not, however, my intention to continue the 
detail of this voyage longer than may be interest- 



252 NEW ORLEANS. [CH. 

ing ; I shall therefore merely state, that, the wind 
and weather having undergone some variations, it 
was the 10th of December before the shores of 
America could be discerned. On that day we 
found ourselves opposite to the Chandeleur Islands, 
and near the entrance of Lake Borgne. There 
the fleet anchored, that the troops might be re- 
moved from the heavy ships into such as drew 
least water ; and from this and other preparations 
it appeared, that to ascend this lake was the plan 
determined upon. 

But before I pursue my narrative further, it 
will be well if I endeavour to give some account 
of the situation of New Orleans, and of the nature 
of the country against Avhich our operations were 
directed. 

New Orleans is a town of some note, containing 
from twenty to thirty thousand inhabitants. It 
stands upon the eastern bank of the Mississippi, 
in 30° north latitude, and about 110 miles from 
the Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself unfortified, 
it is difficult to conceive a place capable of pre- 
senting greater obstacles to an invader ; and at 
the same time more conveniently situated with 
respect to trade. Built upon a narrow neck of 
land, which is confined on one side by the river, and 
on the other by impassable morasses, its means of 
defence require little explanation; and as these 



XVIII.] >'EW ORLEANS. 253 

morasses extend to the distance of only a few 
miles, and are succeeded by Lake Pontchartrain, 
which again communicates through Lake Borgne* 
with the sea, its peculiar commercial advantages 
must be equally apparent. It is by means of the 
former of these Lakes, indeed, that intercourse is 
maintained between the city and the northern 
parts of West Florida, of which it is the capital ; 
a narrow creek, called, in the language of the 
country, a Bayo or Bayouke, navigable for vessels 
drawing less than six feet water, running up 
through the marsh, and ending within two miles 
of the town. The name of this creek is the 
Bayouke of St. John, and its entrance is de- 
fended by works of considerable strength. 

But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct 
point of view, it will be necessary to say a few 
words respecting that mighty river upon wliich it 
stands. The Mississippi, (a corruption of the 
word iMechasippi, signifying, in the language of 
the natives, '' the father of rivers,") is allowed to 
be inferior, in point of size and general naviga- 
bility, to few streams in the world. According to 

* These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. 
From the entrance, however, as far as Ship Island, is called 
"by the inhabitants Lake Borgne, whilst all above that point 
goes under the name of Lake Pontchartrain. They are both 
extremely shallow, varying from 12 to 6 feet in depth. 



254 NEW ORLEANS. [CH. 

the Sioux Indians, it takes its rise from a large 
swamp, and is increased by many rivers emptying 
themselves into its course as far as the fall of St. 
Anthony, which, by their account, is upwards of 
seven hundred leagues from its source. But this 
fall, which is formed by a rock tlu'own across the 
channel, of about twelve feet perpendicular height, 
is knov* n to be eight hundred leagues from the 
sea ; and therefore the whole course of the Mis- 
sissippi, from its spring to its mouth, may be com- 
puted at little short of 5000 miles. 

Below the fall of St. Anthony, again, the Mis- 
sissippi is joined by a number of rivers consider- 
able in point of size, and leading out of almost 
every part of the continent of America. These 
are the St. Pierre, which comes from the west; 
St. Croix, from the east ; the Moingona, which is 
said to run 150 leagues from the west, and forms 
a junction about 250 below the fall ; and the Illi- 
nois, which rises near the Lake Michigan, 200 
leagues east of the Mississippi. 

But by f^r the most important of these auxiliary 
streams is the Missouri, the source of which is as 
little known as that of the Father of Rivers him- 
self It has been followed by traders upwards of 
400 leagues, who traffic with the tribes which 
dwell upon its banks, and obtain an immense re- 
turn for European goods. The mouth of tliis 



X^^II.] NEW ORLEANS. 255 

river is five Icairues below that of the Illinois, and 
is supposed to be 800 from its source, which, 
judging from the flow of its waters, lies in a north- 
west direction from the Mississippi. It is remark- 
able enough, that the waters of this river arc 
black and mAiddy, and prevail over those of the 
Mississippi, which, running with a clear and 
e:entle stream till it meets with this addition, be- 
comes from that time both dark and rapid. 

The next river of note is the Ohio, which, 
takino' its rise near Lake Erie, runs from the 
north-east to the south-west, and joins the Missis- 
sippi about seventy leagues below the Missouri. 
Besides this, there are the St. Francis, an incon- 
siderable stream, and the Arkansas, which is said 
to orio:inate in the same latitude with Santa Fe in 
New Mexico, and which, holding its course nearly 
300 leagues, falls in about 200 above New Or- 
leans. Sixty leagues below the Arkansas, comes 
the Yazous from the north-east ; and about fifty- 
eio4it nearer to the city is the Rouge, so called 
from the colour of its waters, which are of a red- 
dish dye, and tinge those of the Mississippi at the 
time of the floods. Its soiu'ce is in New Mexico, 
and after running about 200 leagues it is joined 
by the Noir thirty miles above the place where it 
empties itself into the Mississippi. 

Of all these rivers, there is none which will not 



i 



256 NEW ORLEANS. [CH. 

answer the purposes of commerce, at least to a 
very considerable extent ; and as they join the 
Mississippi above New Orleans, it is evident that 
this city may be considered as the general mart of 
the whole. Whatever nation, therefore, chances 
to possess this place, possesses in reality the com- 
mand of a greater extent of country than is 
included within the boimdary line of the whole 
United States ; since from every direction are 
goods, the produce of East, West, North, and 
South America, sent down by the Mississippi to 
the Gulf. But were New Orleans properly sup- 
plied with fortifications, it is evident that no ves- 
sels could pass without the leave of its governor ; 
and therefore is it that I consider that city as of 
greater importance to the American government, 
than any other within the compass of their terri- 
tories. 

Having said so much on its commercial advan- 
tages, let me now point out more distinctly than I 
have yet done the causes which contribute to its 
safety from all hostile attempts. The first of these 
is the shallowness of the river at its mouth, and 
the extreme rapidity of the current. After flow- 
ing on in one prodigious sheet of water, var3dng 
in depth from one hundred to thirty fathoms, the 
Mississiyjpi, previous to its joining the Mexican 
Gulf, divides into four or five mouths, the most 



XVIII.] NEW ORLEANS. 257 

considerable of which is encumbered by a sand- 
bank, continually liable to shift. Over this bank, 
no vessel drawinix above seventeen feet water 
can pass ; when once across, however, there is no 
longer a difficulty in bein<^ floated; but to anchor 
is hazardous, on account of the huge logs which 
are constantly carried down the stream. Should 
one of these strike the bow of the ship, it would 
probably dash her to pieces ; whilst, independent 
of this, there is always danger of drifting, or 
losing: anchors, owino- to the number of sunken 
logs which the under-current bears along within 
a few feet of the bottom. All vessels ascending 
the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be 
foul, to make fast to the trees upon the banks ; 
because, without a breeze at once fair and power- 
ful, it is impossible to stem the torrent. 

But besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the 
mouth of the river is defended by a fort, which, 
from its situation, may be pronounced impreg- 
nable. It is built upon an artificial causeway, and 
is surrounded on all sides by swamps totally imper- 
vious, which extend on both sides of the river to a 
place called the Detour des Amjlais, within twenty 
miles of the city. Here two other forts are erected, 
one on each bank. Like that at the river's mouth, 
these are surrounded b}' a marsh, a single narrow 
path conducting from the commencement of firm 



258 NEW ORLEANS. [CH. 

ground to the gates of each. If, therefore, an 
enemy should contrive to pass both the bar and 
the first fort, he must here be stopped, because all 
landing is prevented by the nature of the soil ; and 
however fair his breeze may have hitherto been, 
it will not now assist his further progress. At this 
point the Mississippi winds almost in a circle, in- 
somuch that vessels which arrive are necessitated 
to make fast, till a change of wind occur. 

From the Detour des Anglais towards New Or- 
leans, the face of the country undergoes an alter- 
ation. The swamp does not, indeed, end, but it 
narrows off to the riglit, leaving a space of firm 
ground, varying from three to one mile in width, 
between it and the river. At the back of this 
swamp, again, which may be about six or eight 
miles across, come up the waters of Lake Pont- 
chartrain, and thus a neck of arable land is formed, 
stretching for some way above the city. The 
whole of these morasses are covered, as far as the 
Detour, with tall reeds ; a little wood now suc- 
ceeds, skirting the open country, but the vrood 
measures no more than one mile in depth, when 
it again gives place to reeds. Such is the aspect 
of that side of the river upon which the city is 
built ; with respect to the other, I can speak with 
less confidence, having seen it but cursorily. It 
appears, however, to resemble this in almost every 



XMII.] NEW ORLEANS. 259 

particular, except tliat it is more wooded, and less 
confined with marsh. Both sides arc Hat, contain- 
ing no broken ground, nor any other cover for 
military movements ; for on the open shore there 
are no trees, except a few in the gardens of those 
houses which skirt the river, the whole being laid 
out in large fields of sugar-cane, separated from 
one another by rails and ditches. 

From the preceding brief account of the coun- 
try, the advantages possessed by a defending army 
must be apparent. To approach by the river is 
out of the question, and therefore an enemy can 
land only from the Lake. But this can be done 
nowhere, except where creeks or bayos offer con- 
veniences for that purpose, because the banks of 
the Lake are universally swampy ; and can hardly 
supply footing for infantry, far less for the trans- 
portation of artillery. Of these, however, there 
are not above one or two which could be so used. 
The Bayo of St. John is one ; but it is too well 
defended, and too carefully guarded for any at- 
tempts ; and the Bayo of Catiline is another, 
about ten miles below the city. That this last 
might be found useful in an attack, was proved 
by the landing effected by our army at that point ; 
but what is the consequence .'' The invaders ar- 
rive upon a piece of ground, where the most con- 
summate generalship will be of little avail. If 



I 



260 NEW ORLEANS. [CH. 

the defenders can but retard their progress — 
which, by crowding the Mississippi with armed 
vessels, may very easily be done, the labour of a 
few days will cover the narrow neck with en- 
trenchments ; wliilst the opposite bank remaining 
in their hands, they can at all times gall their 
enemy with a close and deadly cannonade. Of 
wood, as I have already said, or broken ground 
which might conceal an advance, there exists not 
a particle. Every movement of the assailants 
must, therefore, be made under their eyes ; and 
as one flank of their army will be defended by a 
morass, and the other by the river, they may bid 
defiance to all attempts at turning. 

Such are the advantages of New Orleans ; and 
now it is only fair that I should state its disad- 
vantages : these are owing solely to the climate. 
From the swamps with which it is surrounded, 
there arise, during the summer months, exhalations 
extremely fatal to the health of its inhabitants. 
For some months of the year, indeed, so deadly 
are the effects of the atmosphere, that the garrison 
is Avithdrawn, and most of the families retire from 
their houses to more genial spots, leaving the town 
as much deserted as if it had been visited by a 
pestilence. Yet, in spite of these precautions, 
agues and intermittent fevers abound here at all 
times. Nor is it wonderful that the case should be 



XVIIl.] NEW ORLEANS. 2G1 

SO ; for independent of the vile air wliicli tlic 
vicinity of so many putrid swamps .occasions, this 
country is more liable tlian perhaps any otlier to 
sudden and severe changes of temperature. A 
night of keen frost, sufficiently powerful to produce 
ice a quarter of an inch in thickness, frequently 
follows a day of intense heat ; whilst heavy rains 
and bright sunsliine often succeed each other seve- 
ral times in the course of a few hours. But these 
changes, as may be supposed, occur only during 
the winter ; the summer being one continued series 
of intolerable heat and deadly fog. 

Of all these circumstances, the conductors of the 
present expedition were not ignorant. To reduce 
the forts which command the navigation of the 
river, was regarded as a task too difficult to be 
attempted ; and for any ships to pass without their 
reduction, seemed impossible. Trusting, there- 
fore, that the object of the enterprize was unknown 
to the Americans, Sir Alexander Cochrane and 
General Keane determined to effect a landing 
somewhere on the banks of the Lake ; and push- 
ing directly on, to take possession of the town, 
before any effectual preparation could be made 
for its defence. With this view the troops were 
removed from the larger into the lighter vessels, 
and these, under convoy of such gun-brigs as the 
shallowness of the water would float, began on the 



262 LAKE BORGNE. [CH. 

iSth to enter Lake Borgne. But we had not 
proceeded far, when it was apparent that the 
Americans w^ere well acquainted with our inten- 
tions, and ready to receive us. Five large cutters, 
armed with six heavy guns each, were seen at 
anchor in the distances ; and as all endeavours to 
land, till these were captured, would have heen 
useless, the transports and largest of the gun- 
brigs cast anchor, whilst the smaller craft gave 
chase to the enemy. 

But these cutters were built purposely to act 
upon the Lake. They accordingly set sail, as soon 
as the English cruizers arrived within a certain 
distance, and running on, were quickly out of 
sight, leaving the pursuers fast aground. To 
permit them to remain in the hands of the enemy, 
however, would be fatal, because, as long as they 
connnancled the navigation of the Lake, no boats 
could venture to cross. It was, therefore, deter- 
mined at all hazards, and at any expense, to take 
them ; and since our lightest craft could not float 
where they sailed, a flotilla of launches and ships' 
barges was got ready for the purpose. ^j 

This flotilla consisted of iifty open boats ; most 
of them armed with a carronade in the bow, and 
well manned with volunteers from the different 
ships of war. The command was given to Cap- 
tain Lockier, a brave and skilful officer, who 



XVIII.] LAKE BORGNE. 263 

immediately pushed off; and about noon came in 
sight of the enemy, moored fore and aft, with 
broadsides pointing towards him. Having pulled 
a considerable distance, he resolved to refresh his 
men before he hurried them into action ; and, ac- 
cordingly, letting fall grapplings just beyond the 
reach of the enemy's guns, the crews of the dif- 
ferent boats coolly ate their dinner. 

As soon as that meal w^as finished, and an hour 
spent in resting, the boats again got ready to 
advance. But, unfortunately, a light breeze which 
had hitherto favoured them, now ceased to blow, 
and they were in consequence compelled to make 
way only with the oar. The tide also ran strong 
against them, at once increasing their labour and 
retarding their progress ; but all these difficulties 
appeared trifling to British sailors ; and, givino- a 
hearty cheer, they moved steadily onward in one 
extended line. 

It w as not long before the enemy's guns opened 
upon them, and a tremendous shower of balls 
saluted their approach. Some boats were sunk, 
others disabled, and many men were killed and 
wounded; but the rest pulling with all their 
might and occasionally returning the discharges 
from their carronades, succeeded, after an hour's 
labour, in closing with the Americans. The ma- 
rines now began a deadly fire of musketry ; whilst 



264 LAKE BORGNE. [CH. 

the seamen, sword in hand, sprang up the vessels' 
sides in spite of all opposition ; and sabring every 
man that stood in their way, hauled down the 
American ensign, and hoisted the British flag in 
its place. 

One cutter alone, which bore the commodore's 
broad pennant, was not so easily subdued. Having 
noted its pre-eminence. Captain Lockier directed 
his own boat against it ; and happening to have 
placed himself in one of the lightest and fastest 
sailincr barges in the flotilla, he found himself 
alongside of liis enemy before any of the others 
were near enousfh to render him the smallest 
support. But nothing dismayed by odds so fear- 
ful, the firallant crew of this small bark, follow- 
in s their leader, instantly leaped on board the 
American. A desperate conflict ensued, in wliich 
Captain Lockier received several severe wounds ; 
but after fisrhtinor from the bow to the stern, the 
enemv were at length overpowered : and other 
barsres coming up to the assistance of their com- 
mander, the commodore's flag shared the same 
fate with the others. 

Having destroved all opposition in this quarter, 
the fleet again weighed anchor, and stood up the 
L.ake. But we had not been many hours under 
sail, when ship after ship ran aground : such as 
still floated were, therefore, crowded with the 



XVIIl.] LAKE BORGXE. 265 

troops fi-om those wliicli could go no farther, till 
finally the lightest vessel stuck fast; and the 
boats were of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a 
distance of upwards of thirty miles. To be con- 
fined for so long a time as the prosecution of this 
voyage would require, in one posture, was of itself 
no very agreeable prospect ; but the confinement 
was but a trifling miser}-, Avhen compared \\'iththat 
which arose from the chansre in the weather. In- 
stead of a constant bracing fi'ost, heavy rains, such 
as an inhabitant of Ensfland cannot dream of. and 
against which no cloak could furnish protection, 
began. In the midst of these were the troops em- 
barked in their new and straitened transports, and 
each division, after an exposure of ten hours, 
landed upon a small desert spot of earth, called 
Pine Island, where it was determined to collect 
the whole army, pre^-ious to its crossing over to 
the main. 

Than this spot, it is scarcely possible to imagine 
any place more completely wretched. It was a 
swamp, containing a small space of firm srround 
at one end, and almost wholly unadorned with 
trees of any sort or description. There were, in- 
deed, a few stinted firs upon the yeiy edge of the 
water, but these were so diminutive in size, as 
hardly to deserve a hischcr classification than 

ml O 



266 PINE ISLAND. [CH. 

anions^ the meanest of shrubs. The interior was 
the resort of wild ducks and other water-fowl ; and 
the pools and creeks A^dth which it was intercepted 
abounded in dormant alligators. 

Upon this miserable desert the army was as- 
sembled, without tents or huts, or any covering to 
shelter them from the inclemency of the weather ; 
and in truth we may fairly affirm, that our hard- 
ships had here their commencement. After hav- 
ing been exposed all day to a cold and pelting rain, 
we landed upon a barren island, incapable of fur- 
nishing even fuel enough to supply our fires. To 
add to our miseries, as night closed, the rain gene- 
rally ceased, and severe frosts set in ; which, con- 
gealing our wet clothes upon our bodies, left little 
animal warm.th to keep the limbs in a state of 
activity ; and the consequence was, that many of 
the wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were 
altogether new, fell fast asleep, and perished 
before morning. 

For provisions, again, we were entirely depen- 
dent upon the fleet. There were here no living 
creatures which would suffer themselves to be 
caught ; even the water-fowl being so timorous, 
that it was impossible to approach them within 
musket-shot. Salt meat and ship biscuit were, 
therefore, our food, moistened by a small allowance 



XVIII.] PINE ISLAND. 267 

of rum ; fare which, thoui^h no doubt very whole- 
some, was not such as to reconcile us to the cold 
and wet under which we suffered. 

On the part of the nav}^ a^^ain, all these hard- 
ships were experienced in a four-fold degree. 
Night and day were boats pulling from the fleet 
to the island, and from the island to the fleet ; for 
it was the 2Lst before all the troops were got on 
shore ; and as there was little time to inquire into 
men s turns of labour, many seamen were four or 
five days continually at the oar. Thus, they had 
not only to bear up against variety of temperature, 
but against hunger, fatigue, and want of sleep in 
addition ; three as fearful burdens as can be laid 
upon the human frame. Yet in spite of all this, 
not a murmur nor a wdiisper of complaint could 
be heard throughout the wdiole expedition. No 
man appeared to regard the present, whilst every 
one looked forward to the future. From the 
General, down to the 3'oungest drum-boy, a con- 
fident anticipation of success seemed to pervade 
all ranks ; and in the hope of an ample reward in 
store for them, the toils and grievances of the 
moment were forgotten. Nor was this anticipa- 
tion the mere offspring of an overvrcening con- 
fidence in themselves. Several Americans had 
already deserted, who entertained us with accounts 
of the alarm experienced at New Orleans. They 

n2 



268 PINE ISLAND. [CH. 

assured us that there were not at present 5000 
soldiers in the State ; that the principal inhabi- 
tants had long ago left the place ; that such as 
remained were ready to join us as soon as we 
should appear among them ; and that, therefore, 
we might lay our account with a speedy and 
bloodless conquest. The same persons likewise 
dilated upon the wealth and importance of the 
town, upon the large quantities of government 
stores there collected, and the rich booty which 
would reward its capture ; subjects well calculated 
to tickle the fancy of invaders, and to make them 
unmindful of immediate afflictions, in the expec- 
tation of so great a recompense to come. 



XIX.] 2G1) 



CHAPTER XIX. 

It is well known, that at the period to vrliicli my 
narrative refers, an alliance, offensive and defen- 
sive, subsisted between the Government of Great 
Britain, and the heads of as many Indian nations, 
or tribes, as felt the aggressions of the settlers 
upon their ancient territories, and were disposed 
to resent them. On this side of the continent, our 
principal allies were the Chaktaws and Cherokees, 
two nations whom war and famine had reduced 
from a state of comparative majesty, to the lowest 
ebb of feebleness and distress. Driven from 
hunting-ground to hunting-ground, and pursued 
like wild beasts wherever seen, tliey were now 
confined to a narrow tract of country, lying chiefly 
along the coasts of the gulf, and the borders of 
the lakes which adjoin to it. For some time pre- 
vious to the arrival of the expedition, the warriors 
of these tribes put themselves under the command 
of Colonel Nickolls, of the Iloyal ^Marines, and 
continued to harass the Americans, by frequent 
incursions into the cultivated districts. It so 



270 PI^'E ISLAND. [CH. 

happened, however, that, being persuaded to at- 
tempt the reduction of a fort, situated upon 
Mobile point, and being, as might be expected, 
repulsed with some loss, their confidence in their 
leader, and their dependence upon British aid, 
had begun of late to suffer a serious diminution. 
Though not very profitable as friends, their local 
position, and desultory mode of warfare, would 
have rendered them at this period exceedingly 
annoying to us as enemies; it was accordingly 
determined to dispatch an embassy to their settle- 
ments, for the purpose of restoring them to good 
humour, or at least discovering their intentions. 

Whilst the troops were assembling upon Pine 
Island, a cutter, having proper ofl^icers on board, 
and carrying presents of clothing, arms, and rum, 
was dispatched upon this business. It reached its 
place of destination in safety, and the ambassa- 
dors found very little difficulty in bringing back 
the fickle Indians to their wonted reliance upon 
British support. Several of the chiefs and war- 
riors, indeed, requested and obtained permission to 
visit our Admiral and General, and to follow the 
fortunes of our troops ; and a very grotesque and 
singular appearance they presented, as they stood 
upon the quarter-deck of the Tonnant. But the 
costume, habits, and customs of these savages, have 
been too frequently and too accurately described 



XIX.] PINE ISLAND. 271 

elsewhere, to rcniler any accoant of them, on the 
present occasion, desirable. It is sufHcient to ob- 
serve, that whilst tlie}' gazed upon every thing; 
around them with a look expressive of noastonisli- 
ment whatever, they were tliemselves objects of 
eag-er curiosity to us ; and that they bore our close 
inspection, and somewhat uncourteous deportment, 
with the most perfect philosophy. But to my tale. 
The enemy's cutters having fallen into our 
hands, at an earlv hour on the mornin"* of the 
iGth, the disembarkation of the troops began. So 
deficient, however, was the fleet in boats and other 
small craft lit to navigate the lakes, that it was 
late on the evening of the 21st before the last 
division took up its ground upon Pine Island, and 
even then the inconveniences of our descent were 
but beginning. The troops had yet to be arranged 
in corps and brigades ; to each of these its pro- 
portion of Connnissaries, Purveyors, and Medi- 
cal attendants, &,c. &c., required to be allotted ; 
and some attempt at establishing depots of provi- 
sions and military stores behoved to be made. In 
adjusting these matters the whole of the 22d was 
occupied, on wliich day the General likewise re- 
viewed the whole of the arm v. This beine: ended, 
the force was next distributed into divisions, or 
corps ; and the following is the order it assumed. 



272 PLNE ISLAKD. [CII. 

Instead of a light brigade, the General resolved 
to set apart three battalions as an advanced guard. 
The reo:iments nominated to that service, were the 
4th, the 85th Light Infantry, and the 95th Rifles ; 
and he selected Colonel Thornton of the 85th, as 
an officer of talent and enterprise^, to command 
them. Attached to this corps were a party of 
rocket-men, with two light three-pounders, — a spe- 
cies of gun convenient enough, Avhere celerity of 
movement is alone regarded, but of very little 
real utility in the field. The rest of the troops 
were arranged, as before, into two brigades. The 
first, composed of the 21 st, 44th, and one black 
regiment, was intrusted to Colonel Brook ; and 
the second, containing the 93rd, and the other black 
corps, to Colonel Hamilton, of the 7th West India 
regiment. To each of these, a certain proportion 
of artillery and rockets was allotted : whilst the 
dragoons, who had brought their harness and 
other appointments on shore, remained as a sort 
of body-guard to the General, till they should 
provide themselves with horses. 

The adjustment of these matters having occu- 
pied a considerable part of the 22nd, it was deter- 
mined that all things should remain as they were 
till next morning. Boats, in the mean time, began 
to assemble from all Cjuarters, supplies of ammuni- 



XIX.] riNE ISLAND. 273 

tion were packed, so as to prevent the possibility of 
damage from moisture, and stores of various de- 
scriptions were got ready. But it appeared that, 
even now, many serious inconveniences must be 
endured, and obstacles surmounted, before the 
troops could reach the scene of action. In the 
first ])lace, from Pine Island to that part of the 
main towards which prudence directed us to steer^, 
was a distance of no less than 80 miles. This, of 
itself, was an obstacle, or at least an inconvenience 
of no slight nature ; for should the weather prove 
boisterous, open boats, heavily laden with soldiers, 
would stand little chance of escaping destruction 
in the course of so long a voyage. In the next 
place, and what was of infinitely greater import- 
ance, it was found that there were not. throughout 
the whole fleet, a sufficient number of boats to 
transport above one-third of the army at a time. 
But to land in divisions, would expose our forces 
to be attacked in detail, by which means one party 
might be cut to pieces before the others could 
arrive to its support. The undertaking was, there- 
fore, on the whole, extremely dangerous, and such 
as would have been probably abandoned by more 
timid leaders. Ours, however, were not so to be 
alarmed. They had entered upon a hazardous 
business, in whatever way it should be prosecuted ; 
and since they could not work miracles, they 

N 5 



274 THE LAKE. [CH. 

resolved to lose no time in bringing their army 
into the field, in the best manner which circum- 
stances would permit. 

With this view, the advance, consisting of 1 600 
men and two pieces of cannon, was next morning 
embarked. 1 have already stated that there is 
a small creek, called the Bayo de Catiline, which 
runs up from Lake Pontchartrain through the 
middle of an extensive morass, about ten miles 
below New Orleans. Towards this creek were 
the boats directed, and here it was resolved to 
effect a landing. When we set sail, the sky was 
dark and lowering, and before long a heavy rain 
began to fall. Continuing without intermission 
during the whole of the day, towards night, it, as 
usual, ceased, and was succeeded by a sharp frost ; 
which, taking effect upon men thoroughly exposed, 
and already cramped by remaining so long in one 
posture, rendered our limbs completely powerless. 
Nor Avas there any means of dispelling the be- 
numbing sensation, or effectually resisting the 
cold. Fires of charcoal, indeed, being lighted in 
the sterns of the boats, were permitted to burn 
as long as daylight lasted; but as soon as it grew 
dark, they were of necessity extinguished, lest 
the flame should be seen by row-boats from the 
shore, and an alarm be thus communicated. Our 
situation was, therefore, the reverse of agreeable; 



XIX.] Tin: LAKE. 275 

since oven sleep was denied us, from the appre- 
hension of fatal consequences. 

IIavin<r remained in this uncomfortable state till 
midnio-ht, the boats cast anchor, and hoisted awn- 
ings. There was a small picpiet of the enemy sta- 
tioned at the entrance of the creek, by which it 
was intended to effect our landing^. This it was 
absolutely necessary to surprise ; and whilst the rest 
lay at anchor, two or three fast-sailing barges were 
pushed on to execute the service. Nor did they 
experience much difficulty in accomplishing their 
object. Nothing, as it appeared, was less dreamt 
of by the Americans than an attack from this 
quarter, consequently, no persons could be less on 
their guard than the party here stationed. The 
officer who conducted the force sent against them, 
found not so much as a single sentinel posted 1 
but having landed his men at two places, above 
and below the hut which they inhabited, extended 
his ranks so as to surround it, and closing gra- 
dually in, took them all fast asleep, without noise 
or resistance. 

When such time had been allowed as was 
deemed sufficient for the accomplishment of this 
undertaking, the flotilla again weighed anchor, 
and without waiting for intelligence of success, 
pursued their voyage. Hitherto we had been hur- 
ried along at a rapid rate by a fair breeze, wliich 



276 LA?^B1NG. [CH. 

enabled us to carry canvass ; but this now left us, 
and we made w^ay only by rowing. Our progress 
"was therefore considerably retarded, and the risk 
of discovery heightened by the noise which that 
labour necessarily occasions ; but in spite of these 
obstacles, we reached the entrance of the creek by 
dawn; and about nine o'clock, were safely on 
shore. 

The place where we landed was as wild as it is 
possible to imagine. Gaze where we might, no- 
thing could be seen except one huge marsh, 
covered with tall reeds ; not a house nor a vestige 
of human industry covdd be discovered; and even 
of trees, there v\ere but a few growing upon the 
banks of the creek. Yet it was such a spot as, 
above all others, favoured our operations. No eye 
could watch us, or report our arrival to the Ame- 
rican General. By remaining quietly among the 
reeds, we might effectually conceal ourselves 
from notice ; because, from the appearance of all 
around, it was easy to perceive that the place 
which v.e occupied had been seldom, if ever before, 
marked with a human footstep. Concealment, how^- 
ever, was the thing of all others which w^e required ; 
for be it remembered that there were now only 
sixteen hundred men on the main land. The rest 
were still at Pine Island, where they must remain 
till the boats which had transported us should 



XIX.] MARCH. 277 

return for their conveyance, consequently mimy 
hours must chipsc before this small corps could 
he either reinforced or supported. If, therefore 
we had sought for a point where a descent might 
be made in secrecy and safety, we could not have 
found one better calculated for that purpose than 
the present ; because it afforded every means of 
concealment to one part of our force, until the 
others should be able to come up. 

For these reasons, it was confidently expected 
that no movement would be made previous to the 
arrival of the other brigades ; but. in our expec- 
tations of quiet, we were deceived. The deserters 
who had come in, and accompanied us as guides, 
assured the General that he had only to show him- 
self, when the whole district would submit. They 
repeated, that there were not five thousand men 
in arms throu2:hout the State : that of these, not 
more than twelve himdred were regular soldiers, 
and that the whole force was at present several 
miles on the opposite side of the town, expecting 
an attack on that quarter, and apprehending no 
danger on this. These arguments, together with 
the nature of the ground on wliich we stood, so 
ill calculated for a proper distribution of troops, 
in case of attack, and so well calculated to 
hide the movements of an army acquainted with 
all the passes and tracks which, for aught we 



278 MARCH. [CH. 

knew, intersected the morass, induced our leader 
to push forward at once into the open country. 
As soon, therefore, as the advance was formed, 
and the boats had departed, we began our march, 
following an indistinct path along the edge of 
the ditch or canal. But it was not without many 
checks that we were able to proceed. Other 
ditches, similar to tliat whose course we pursued, 
frequently stopped us by running in a cross direc- 
tion, and falling into it at right angles. These 
were too wide to be leaped, and too deep to be 
forded ; consequently, on all such occasions, the 
troops were obliged to halt, till bridges were 
hastily constructed of such materials as could be 
procured, and thrown across. 

Having advanced in this manner for several 
hours, we at length found ourselves approaching 
a more cultivated region. The marsh became 
gradually less and less continued, being inter- 
sected by wider spots of firm ground ; the reeds 
gave place, by degrees, to wood ; and the wood 
to inclosed fields. Upon these, however, nothing 
grew, harvest having long ago ended. They ac- 
cordingly presented but a melancholy appearance, 
being covered with the stubble of sugar-cane, 
which resembled the reeds which we had just 
quitted, in everything except altitude. Nor as 
yet was any house or cottage to be seen. Though 



XIX.] MARCH. 279 

wc knew, therefore, that human habitations could 
not be far off, it was impossible to guess where 
they lay, or how numerous they might prove ; 
and as we could not tell whether our guides 
might not be deceiving us, and whether ambus- 
cades might not be laid for our destruction, as 
soon as we should arrive where troops could con- 
veniently act, our march was insensibly conducted 
with increased caution and regularity. 

But in a little while some groves of orange- 
trees presented themselves; on passing which, 
two or three farm-houses appeared. Towards 
these, our advanced companies immediately hast- 
ened, with the hope of surprising the inhabitants, 
and preventing any alarm from being raised. 
Hurrying on at double-quick time, they sur- 
rounded the buildings, succeeded in securing the 
inmates, and capturing several horses ; but be- 
coming rather careless in watching their prisoners, 
one man contrived to effect his escape. Now, 
then, all hope of eluding observation might be 
laid aside. The rumour of our landing would, we 
knew, spread faster than we could march ; and it 
only remained to make that rumour as terrible as 
possible. 

With this view, the column was commanded 
to widen its files, and to present as formidable 
an appearance as could be assumed. Changing 



2S0 HALT. [CH. 

our order, in obedience to these directions, wc 
marched, not in sections of eight or ten abreast, 
but in pairs, and tlius contrived to cover with our 
small division as large a track of ground, as if we 
had mustered thrice our present numbers. Our 
steps were likewise quickened, that we might 
gain, if possible, some advantageous position, 
where wc might be able to cope with any force 
that might attack us ; and thus hastening on, 
we soon arrived at the main road, which leads 
directly to New Orleans. Turning to the right, 
we then advanced in the direction of that town 
for about a mile ; when, having reached a spot 
where it was considered that we might encamp in 
comparative safety, our little column halted ; tlie 
men piled their arms, and a regular bivouac was 
formed. 

The country where wc had now established 
ourselves, answered, in every respect, the descrip- 
tion which I have already given of the neck of 
land on which New Orleans is built. It was a 
narrow plain of about a mile in width, bounded 
on one side by the •Mississippi, and on the other 
by the marsh from which we had just emerged. 
Towards the open ground, this marsh was covered 
with dwarf- wood, having the semblance of a forest, 
rather than of a swamp ; but on trying the bottom, 
it was found that both characters were united. 



XIX.] HALT. 2Sl 

and that it was impossible for a man to make his 
way among the trees, so boggy was the soil upon 
which they grew. In no other quarter, however, 
v>'as there a single hedge-row, or plantation of any 
kind ; excepting a few apple and other fruit-trees 
in the srardens of such houses as were scattered 
over the plain, the whole being laid out in large 
fields for the growth of sugar-cane, a plant which 
seems as abundant in this part of the world as in 
Jamaica. 

Looking up towards the town, which we at this 
time faced, the marsh is upon your right, and the 
river upon your left. Close to the latter runs the 
main road, following the course of the stream all 
the way to New Orleans. Between the road and 
the water, is thro^^ii up a lofty and strong em- 
bankment, resembling the dykes in Holland, and 
meant to serve a similar purpose ; by means of 
wliich the Mississippi is prevented from overflow- 
ing its banks, and the entire flat is preserved from 
inundation. But the attention of a stranger is 
irresistibly drawn away from every other object, to 
contemplate the magnificence of this noble river. 
Pouring along at the prodigious rate of four miles 
an hour, an immense body of water is spread out 
before you ; measuring a full mile across, and 
nearly a hundred fathoms in depth. What this 



282 HALT. [CH. 

might}- stream must be near its mouth, I can 
hardly imagine, for we were here upwards of a 
hundred miles from the ocean. 

Such w'as the general aspect of the country 
which we had entered ; — our own position, again, 
was this. The three rejjiments turnin<r oti" from 
the road into one extensive green field, formed 
three close columns within pistol-shot of the 
river. Upon our right, but so much in advance 
as to be of no service to us, was a large house, 
surrounded by about twenty Avooden huts, pro- 
bably intended for the accommodation of slaves. 
Towards this house, there was a slight rise in the 
ground, and between it and the camp was a small 
pond of no great depth. As far to the rear again 
as the first was to the front, stood another house, 
inferior in point of appearance, and skirted by no 
out-buildings : this was also upon the right; and 
here General Keane, who accompanied us, fixed 
his head-quarters ; but neither the one nor the 
other could be employed as a covering redoubt, 
the flank of the division extending, as it were, 
between them. A httle way in advance, again, 
where the out-posts were stationed, ran a dry 
ditch and a row of lofty palings ; affording some 
cover to the front of our line, should it be formed 
diagonally with the main road. The left likewise 



XIX.] HALT. 283 

was well secured by the river ; but the right and 
the rear were wholly unprotected. Though in 
occupying this field, therefore, we might have 
looked very well had the country around us been 
friendly, it must be confessed that our situation 
hardly deserved the title of a military position. 



284 [cH. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Noon had just passed, when the word was given 
to halt, by which means every facihty was afforded 
of posting the piquets witli leisure and attention. 
Nor was this deemed enough to secure tranquil- 
lity : parties w^rc sent out in all directions to 
reconnoitre, who returned with an account that 
no enemy nor any trace of an enemy could he 
discerned. The troops were accordingly suffered 
to lijrht fires, and to make themselves comfort- 
able; only their accoutrements were not taken 
off, and the arms were piled in such form as to be 
within reach at a moment's notice. 

As soon as these agreeable orders were issued, 
the soldiers proceeded to obey them both in letter 
and in spirit. Tearing up a number of strong 
palings, large fires were hghted in a moment; 
water was brought from the river, and provisions 
w^ere cooked. But their bare rations did not con- 
tent them. Spreading themselves over the coun- 
try as far as a regard to safety would permit, they 
entered every house, and brouglit away quantities 



XX.] HALT. 285 

of hams, fowls, and wines of various descriptions ; 
Avliich being divided among tliem, all fared well, 
and none received too large a quantity. In this 
division of good things, they were not unmindful 
of their officers ; for upon active warfare the offi- 
cers are considered by the privates as comrades, 
to whom respect and obedience are due, rather 
than as masters. 

It was now about three o'clock in the after- 
noon, and all had as yet remained quiet. The 
troops having finished their meal, lay stretched 
beside their fires, or refreshed themselves by 
bathing, for to-day the heat was such as to render 
this latter employment extremely agreeable, when 
suddenly a bugle from the advanced posts sounded 
the alarm, which was echoed back from all in the 
army. Starting up, we stood to our arms, and 
prepared for battle, the alarm being now suc- 
ceeded by some firing ; but we were scarcely in 
order, when intelligence arrived from the front 
that there was no danger, only a few horse having 
made their appearance, who were checked and put 
to flight at the first discharge. Upon this infor- 
mation, our wonted confidence returned, and we 
again betook ourselves to our former occupations, 
remarking that, as the Americans had never yet 
dared to attack, there was no great probability of 
their doing so on the present occasion. 



286 ATTACK. [CH. 

In this manner the day passed without any far- 
ther alarm ; and darkness having set in, the fires 
were made to blaze with increased splendour, our 
evening meal was eaten, and we prepared to sleep. 
But about half-past seven o'clock, the attention of 
several individuals was draAvn to a large vessel, 
which seemed to be stealing up the river till she 
came opposite to our camp ; when her anchor was 
dropped, and her sails leisurely furled. At first 
M'c were doubtful whether she might not be one 
of our own cruisers which had passed the fort 
unobserved, and had arrived to render her assist- 
ance in our future operations. To satisfy this 
doubt, she was repeatedly hailed ; but returning 
no answer, an alarm immediately spread through 
the bivouac, and all thought of sleep was laid 
aside. Several musket-shots were now fired at 
her with the design of exacting a reply, of which 
no notice was taken ; till at length, having fast- 
ened all her sails, and swung her broadside to- 
wards us, we could distinctly hear some one cry 
out in a commanding voice, " Give them this for 
the honour of America." The w^ords were in- 
stantly followed by the flashes of her guns, and 
a deadly shower of grape swept down numbers in 
the camp. 

Against this destructive fire we had nothing 
whatever to oppose. The artillery which we had 



XX.] ATTACK. 287 

landed Avas too light to bring into competition 
with an adversary so powerful ; and as she had 
anchored within a short distance of the opposite 
bank, no musketry could reach her with an}^ pre- 
cision or effect. A few rockets were discharsred, 
which made a beautiful appearance in the air ; 
but the rocket is at the best an uncertain weapon, 
and these deviated too far from their object to 
produce even terror amongst those against whom 
they were directed. Under these circumstances, 
as nothing could be done offensively, our sole 
object was to shelter the men as much as pos- 
sible from the iron hail. With this view, they 
were commanded to leave the fires, and to hasten 
under the dyke. Thither all accordingly repaired, 
without much regard to order and regularity, and 
laying ourselves along wherever we could find 
room, we listened in painful silence to the patter- 
ing of grape-shot among our huts, and to the 
shrieks and groans of those who lay wounded 
beside them. 

The night was now as dark as pitch, the moon 
being but young, and totally obscured with clouds. 
Our fires deserted by us, and beat about by the 
enemy's shot, began to burn red and dull, and, ex- 
cept when the flashes of those guns which played 
upon us cast a momentary glare, not an object 
could be distinguished at the distance of a yard. 



238 ATTACK. [cn. 

In this state wc lay for nearly an lioiu% unable to 
inovc from our o^round, or offer any opposition to 
those who Ivept us tliere ; Avhen a stra^^gling fire 
of musketry called our attention towards tlic 
piquets, and warned us to prepare for a closer 
and more desperate struj^ii^le. As yet, however, 
it was uncertain from what cause this dro])ping 
fire arose. It mip;ht proceed from the sentinels, 
who, alarmed hy the cannonade from the river, 
mistook every tree for an American ; and till tlio 
real state of the case should be ascertained, it 
would be improper to expose the troops, by 
moving any of them from the shelter which tlie 
bank afforded. But these doubts were not per- 
mitted to continue long in existence. The drop- 
ping fire having ]>aused for a few moments, was 
succeeded by a fearful yell ; and the heavens were 
illuminated on all sides bv a semi-circular blaze 
of musketry. It Avas now manifest that we were 
surrounded, and that by a very superior force ; 
and that no alternative remained, except to surren- 
der at discretion, or to beat back the assailants. 

The first of these plans Avas never for an in- 
stant thought of; the second was immediately put 
into force. Pushing from under the bank, the 
85th and 95th flew to support the piquets, whilst 
the 4th, stealing to the rear of the encampment, 
formed close column, and remained as a reserve. 



XX.] ATTACK. 289 

And now began a battle of which no languao-e 
were competent to convey any distmct idea ; be- 
cause it was one to which the annals of modern 
warfare furnish no parallel. All order, all disci- 
pline were lost. Each officer, as he succeeded in 
collecting twenty or thirty men about him, plunged 
into the midst of the enemy's ranks, where it was 
fought hand to hand, bayonet to bayonet, and 
sabre to sabre. 

I am well aware that he who speaks of his 
own deeds in the field of battle lies fairly open 
to the charge of seeking to make a hero of him- 
self in the eyes of the public ; and feelino- this, 
it is not without reluctance that I proceed to re- 
count the part which I myself took in the affair 
of this night. But, in truth, I must either play 
the egotist awhile, or leave the reader without 
any details at all ; inasmuch as the darkness and 
general confusion effectually prevented me from 
observing how others, except my own immediate 
party, were employed. 

Offering this as my apology for a line of con- 
duct which I should otherwise blush to pursue, 
and premising that I did nothing, in my own 
person, which was not done by my comrades at 
least as effectually, I go on to relate as many of 
the particulars of this sanguinary conflict as 
came under the notice of my own senses. 

o 



290 ATTACK. [CH. 

My friend Grey and myself had been supplied 
by our soldiers with a couple of fowls taken from 
a neighbouring^ hen-roost, and a few bottles of 
excellent claret, borrowed from the cellar of one 
of the houses near. We had built ourselves a 
sort of hut, by piling together, in a conical form, 
a number of large stakes and broad rails torn up 
from one of the fences ; and a briglit wooden fire 
was blazing at the door of it. In the wantonness 
of triumph, too, we had lighted some six or eight 
wax-candles ; a vast quantity of which had been 
found in the store-rooms of the chateaux hard 
by; and having done ample justice to our luxu- 
rious supper, we were sitting in great splendour^ 
and in high spirits, at the entrance of our hut, 
when the alarm of the approaching schooner was 
communicated to us. With the sagacity of a 
veteran. Grey instantly guessed how matters 
stood : he was the first to hail the suspicious 
stranger ; and on receiving no answer to his chal- 
lenge, he was the first to fire a musket in the 
direction of her anchorage. But he had scarcely 
done so, when she opened her broadside, causing 
the instantaneous abandonment of fires, viands, 
and mirth, throughout the bivouac. 

As we contrived to get our men tolerably well 
around us. Grey and myself were among the 
first who rushed forth to support the piquets. 



II 



XX.] ATTACK. 291 

and check the advance of the enemy upon the 
right. Passing as rapidly as might be through 
the ground of encampment, amidst a shower of 
grape-shot from the vessel, we soon arrived at 
the pond; which being forded, we found our- 
selves in front of the farm-house, of which I have 
already spoken as composing the head-quarters 
of General Keane. Here we were met by a few 
stragglers from the out-posts, who reported that 
the advanced companies were all driven in ; and 
that a numerous division of Americans was ap- 
proaching. Having attached these fugitives to 
our little corps, we pushed on, and in a few 
seconds reached the lower extremity of a sloping 
stubble-field, at the other end of which we could 
discern a long line of men, but whether they 
were friends or foes, the darkness would not per- 
mit us to determine. We called aloud, for the 
purpose of satisfying our doubts ; but the signal 
being disregarded, we advanced. A heavy fire 
of musketry instantly opened upon us, but so 
fearful was Grey of doing injury to our own 
troops, that he would not permit it to be re- 
turned. We accordingly pressed on, our men 
dropping by ones and twos on every side of us, 
till having arrived within twenty or thirty yards 
of the object of our curiosity, it became to me evi- 
dent enough that we were in front of the enemy. 

o2 



292 ATTACK. [CH. 

But Grcv's humane caution still prevailed; he 
was not convinced, and till he should be con- 
vinced it was but natural that he should not alter 
his plans. There chanced to be near the spot 
where we were standing a huge dung-heap, or 
rather a lonor soUd stack of stubble, behind which 
we directed the men to take shelter, whilst one of 
us should creep forward alone, for the purpose of 
more completelv ascertaining a fact, of which all, 
except my brave and noble-minded comrade, were 
satisfied. Tlie event proved that mv sight had 
not deceived me ; I approached within sabre's 
lenerth of the line; and haviuir ascertained, be- 
yond the possibiUty of doubt, that the line was 
composed of American soldiers, I returned to 
my friend, and again urged him to charge. But 
there was an infatuation upon him that night, for 
which I have ever been unable to account : he 
insisted that I must be mistaken : he spoke of 
the improbability which existed, that any part of 
the enemvs armv should have succeeded in taking 
up a position in rear of the station of one of our 
out-posts, and he could not be persuaded that 
the troops now before him were not the 95th 
Eifle Corps. At last it was agi-eed between us 
that we should separate : that Grey, with one 
half of the party, should remain where he was, 
whilst I., with the other half, should make a short 



XX.] ATTACK. 293 

detour to the right, and come do^\^l upon the 
flank of the line, from whose fire we had suffered 
so severely. The plan was carried into imme- 
diate execution. Taking: vrith. me about a dozen 
or fourteen men, I quitted Grey, and we never 
met again. 

How or when he fell I know not; but judging 
from the spot and attitude in which I afterwards 
found his body, I conceive that my back could 
have been barely turned upon him, when the fatal 
ball pierced his brain. He was as brave a soldier 
and as good a man as the British army can boast 
of; beloved by his brother officers and adored by 
his men. To me he was as a brother ; nor have I 
ceased even now to feel, as often as the 23rd of 
December returns, that on that nig^ht a tie was 
broken, than which the progress of human life 
will hardly furnish one more tender or more 
strons:. But to mv tale. 

Leavino; Grev. — careless, as he ever was in 
battle, of his own person, and anxious, as far as 
mio:ht be. to secure the safetv of his followers. — I 
led my little party in the direction agi-eed upon, 
and fortunately falling in with about an equal 
number of English ritlemcn, I caused them to take 
post beside my own men. and turned up to the 
front. Springing over the paling, we found our- 
selves almost at once upon the left flank of the 



294 ATTACK. [CH. 

enemy ; and we lost not a moment in attacking it. 
But one volley was poured in, and then bayonets, 
musket-butts, sabres, and even fists, came in- 
stantly into play. In the whole course of my 
military career, I remember no scene at all re- 
sembling this. We fought with the savage fero- 
city of bull-dogs, and many a blade which till 
to-night had not drunk blood, became in a few 
minutes crimsoned enough. 

Such a contest could not, in the nature of 
things, be of very long continuance. The enemy, 
astonished at the vigour of our assault, soon began 
to waver, and their wavering was speedily con- 
verted into flight. Nor did we give them a mo- 
ment's time to recover from their panic. With loud 
shouts we continued to press upon them ; and 
amidst the most horrible din and desperate car- 
nage, drove them over the field and through the 
little village of huts, of which notice has already 
been taken as surrounding the mansion on our 
advanced right. Here we found a number of our 
own people prisoners, and under a guard of Ame- 
ricans. But the guard fled as we approached, 
and our countrymen catching up such weapons as 
came first to hand, joined in the pursuit. 

In this spot I halted my party, increased, by 
the late additions, to the number of forty ; among 
whom were two gallant young ofificers of the 



XX.] ATTACK. 295 

95th. Wo had not yet been joined, as I expected 
to be joined, by Grey, and feeling that we were at 
least far enough in advance of our own line, we 
determined to attempt notliing further, except to 
keep possession of the village should it be at- 
tacked. But whilst placing the men in convenient 
situations, another dark line was pointed out to 
us, considerably to the left of our position. That 
•we might ascertain at once of what troops it was 
composed, I left my brother officers to complete 
the arrangements which we had begun ; and walk- 
ing down the field, demanded, in a loud voice, to 
be informed who they were that kept post in so 
retired a situation. A voice from the throng made 
answer that they were Americans, and begged of 
me not to fire upon my friends. Willing to deceive 
them still further, I asked to w^hat corps they be- 
longed ; the speaker replied, that they were the 
second battalion of the first regiment, and inquired 
what had become of the first battalion. I told him 
that it was upon my right, and assuming a tone of 
authority, commanded him not to move from his 
present situation, till I should join him with a 
party of which I was at the head. 

The conversation ended here, and I returned to 
the village; when, communicating the result of 
my inquiries to my comrades, we formed our brave 
little band into line, and determined to attack. 



296 ATTACK. [CH. 

The men were cautioned to preserve a strict si- 
lence, and not to fire a shot till orders were given ; 
they observed these injunctions, and with fixed 
bayonets and cautious tread advanced along the 
iield. As we drew near, I called aloud for the 
commanding officer of the second regiment to step 
forward, upon which an elderly man, armed with 
a heavy dragoon sabre, stepped out of the ranks. 
When he discovered by our dress that we were 
English, this redoubtable warrior lost all self- 
command; he resigned his sword to me without a 
murmur, and consented at once to believe that his 
battalion was surrounded, and that to offer any 
resistance would but occasion a needless loss of 
blood. Nor was he singular in these respects : his 
followers, placing implicit reliance in our assur- 
ances, that they were hemmed in on every side by 
a very superior force, had actually begun to lay 
down their arms, and would have surrendered, in 
all probability, at discretion, but for the superior 
gallantry of one man. An American officer, whose 
sword I demanded, instead of giving it up, as his 
commander had done, made a cut at my head, 
which with some difficulty I managed to ward off; 
and a few soldiers near Mm, catching ardour from 
his example, discharged their pieces among our 
troops. The sound of firing was no sooner heard 
than it became general; and as all hope of success 



p 



XX.] ATTACK. 297 

by stratagem might now be laid aside, we were, of 
necessity, compelled to try the effect of violence. 
Again we rushed into the middle of the throng, 
and again was the contest that of man to man, in 
close and desperate strife ; till a panic arising 
among the Americans, they dispersed in all direc- 
tions, and left us masters of the field. 

In giving a detail so minute of my own adven- 
tures this night, I beg to repeat what has been 
stated already, that I have no wish whatever to 
persuade my readers that I was one whit more 
cool or more daring than my companions. Like 
them I was driven to depend, from first to last, 
upon my own energies ; and I believe the ener- 
gies of few men fail them, when they are satisfied 
that on them alone they must depend. Nor was 
the case different with my comrades. Attacked 
unexpectedly, and in the dark, — surrounded, too, 
by a numerous enemy, and one who spoke the 
same language with ourselves, — it is not to be 
wondered at if the order and routine of civilized 
warfare were everywhere set at nought. Each 
man who felt disposed to command, was obeyed 
by those who stood near him, without any ques- 
tion being asked as to his authority ; and more 
feats of individual gallantry were performed in 
this single night than many regular campaigns 
might furnish an opportunity to perform. 

o5 



298 ATTACK. [CH. 1 

The night was far spent, and the sound of 
firing had begun to wax faint, when, checking the 
ardour of our brave followers, we collected them 
once more together, and fell back into the village. 
Here, likewise, considerable numbers from other 
detachments assembled, and here we learned that 
the Americans were repulsed on every side. The 
combat had been long and obstinately contested : 
it began at eight o'clock in the evening, and con- 
tinued till three in the morning — but the victory 
was ours. True, it was the reverse of a bloodless 
one, not fewer than two hundred and fifty of our 
best men having fallen in the struggle : but even 
at the expense of such a loss, we could not but 
account ourselves fortunate in escaping from the 
snare in which we had confessedly been taken. 

To me, however, the announcement of the vic- 
tory brought no rejoicing, for it was accompanied 
with the intelligence that my friend was among 
the killed. I well recollect the circumstances 
under which these sad news reached me. I was 
standing \vith a sword in each hand — my own and 
that of the officer who had surrendered to me, and, 
as the reader may imagine, in no bad humour with 
myself or with the brave fellows about me, when 
a brother officer stepping forward abruptly told 
the tale. It came upon me like a thunderbolt ; 
and casting aside my trophy, I thought only of 



XX.] FIELD OF BATTLE. 299 

the loss which I had sustained. Regardless of 
every other matter, I ran to the rear, and found 
Grey lying behind the dung-heap, motionless and 
cold. A little pool of blood which had coagulated 
under his head, pointed out the spot where the 
ball had entered, and the position of his limbs gave 
proof that he must have died without a struggle. 
I cannot pretend to describe what were then my 
sensations, but of whatever nature they might be, 
little time was given for their i ndulgence; for tli 
bugle sounding the alarm, I was compelled to leave 
him as he lay, and to join my corps. Though the 
alarm proved to be a false one, it had the good 
effect of bringing all the troops together, by which 
means a regular line was now, for the first time 
since the commencement of the action, formed. 
In this order, having defiled considerably to the 
left, so as to command the highway, we stood in 
front of our bivouac till dawn began to appear ; 
when, to avoid the fire of the sc hooncr, we oce 
more moved to the river's bank, and lay down 
Here, during the whole of the succeeding day, 
the troops were kept shivering in the cold frosty 
air, without fires, without provisions, and ex- 
hausted with fatigue ; nor was it till the return 
of night that any attempt to extricate them from 
their comfortless situation could be made. 

Whilst others were thus reposing, I stole away 



300 FIELD OF BATTLE. [CH. 

with two or three men, for tlic purpose of per- 
form in fr the last sad act of affection which it was 
possible for me to perform to my friend Grey. 
As we had completely changed our ground, it was 
not possible for me at once to discover the spot 
where he lay ; indeed, I traversed a large portion 
of the field before I hit upon it. Whilst thus 
wandering: over the arena of last nii2;ht's contest, 
the most shocking and most disgusting specta- 
cles everywhere met my eyes. I have frequently 
beheld a jrrcater number of dead bodies within 
as narrow a compass, though these, to speak the 
truth, were numerous enough, but wounds more 
disfiguring, or more horrible, 1 certainly never 
witnessed. A man shot through the head or 
heart lies as if he were in a deep slumber ; inso- 
much, that when you gaze upon him you expe- 
rience little else than pity. But of these many 
had met their deaths from bayonet wounds, sabre 
cuts, or heavy blows from the butt ends of mus- 
kets ; and the consequence was, that not only 
were the wounds themselves exceedingly frightful, 
but the very countenances of the dead exhibited 
the most savage and ghastly expressions. Friends 
and foes lay together in small groups of four 
or six, nor was it difficult to tell almost the very 
hand by which some of them had fallen. Nay, 
such had been the deadly closeness of the strife. 



XX.] FIELD OF BATTLE. 301 

that in one or two places an English and Ame- 
rican soldier might be seen with the bayonet of 
each fastened in the other s body. 

Havinof searched for some time in vain, I at 
length discovered my friend lying, where, during 
the action, we had separated ; and where, when 
the action came to a close, I had at first found 
him ; shot through the temples by a rifle bullet 
so remarkably small, as scarcely to leave any 
trace of its progress. I am well aware that 
this is no fit place to introduce the working of 
my own personal feelings, but he was my friend, 
and such a friend as few men are happy enough 
to possess. We had known and loved each other 
for years ; our regard had been cemented by a 
long participation in the same hardships and dan- 
gers; and it cannot therefore surprise, if even 
now I pay that tribute to his worth and our 
friendship, which, however unavailing it may be, 
they both deserve. 

When in the act of looking for him, I had flat- 
tered myself that I should be able to bear his 
loss with something like philosophy, but when I 
beheld him pale and bloody, I found all my reso- 
lution evaporate. I threw m3^self on the ground 
beside him, and wept like a child. But this was 
no time for the indulgence of useless sorrow. Like 
the royal bard, I knew that I should go to him. 



302 HOSPITAL. [CH. i 

but he could not return to me, and I knew not 
whether an hour would pass before my summons 
might arrive. Lifting him, therefore, upon a cart, 
I had him carried down to head-quarter house, 
now converted into an hospital, and having dug 
for him a grave at the bottom of the garden, I 
laid him there as a soldier should be laid, arrayed, 
not in a shroud, but in his uniform. Even the 
privates, whom I brought with me to assist at his 
funeral, mingled their tears with mine, nor are 
many so fortunate as to return to the parent dust 
more deeply or more sincerely lamented. 

Retiring from the performance of this melan- 
choly duty, 1 strolled into the hospital, and visited 
the wounded. It is here that war loses its gran- 
deur and show, and presents only a real picture of 
its effects. Every room in the house was crowded 
witli wretches mangled, and apparently in the 
most excruciating agonies. Prayers, groans, and, 
I grieve to add, the most horrid exclamations, 
smote upon the ear wherever I turned. Some lay 
at length upon straw, with eyes half closed, and 
limbs motionless ; some endeavoured to start up, 
shrieking with pain, while the wandering eye and 
incoherent speech of others indicated the loss of 
reason, and usually foretold the approach of death. 
But there was one among the rest, whose appear- 
ance was too horrible ever to be forgotten. He 



II 



XX.] HOSPITAL. 303 

had been shot through the windpipe, and the 
breath making its way between the skin and the 
flesh had dilated him to a size absokitely terrific. 
His head and face were particularly shocking. 
Every feature was enlarged beyond what can well 
be imagined ; whilst his eyes were so completely 
hidden by the cheeks and forehead, as to destroy 
all resemblance to a human countenance. 

Passing through the apartments where the pri- 
vate soldiers lay, I next came to those occupied 
by officers. Of these there were five or six in one 
small room, to whom little better accommodation 
could be provided than to their inferiors. It was 
a sight peculiarly distressing, because all of them 
chanced to be personal acquaintances of my own. 
One had been shot in the head, and lay gasping 
and insensible ; another had received a musket- 
ball in the belly, which had pierced through and 
lodged in the back-bone. The former appeared 
to suffer but Httle, giving no signs of life, except 
what a heavy breathing produced; the latter 
was in the most dreadful agony, screaming out, 
and gnawing the covering under which he lay. 
There were many besides these, some severely, 
and others slightly hurt ; but as I have already 
dwelt at sufficient length upon a painful subject, 
I shall only observe, that to all was afforded every 
assistance which circumstances would allow ; and 



304 HOSPITAL. [CH. 

that the exertions of their medical attendants 
were such as deserved and obtained the grate- ^ 
ful thanks of even the most afflicted among the 
sufferers themselves. 



XXI. 1 305 



CHAPTER XXI. 

In the mean time the rest of the troops were 
landmg as fast as possible, and hastening to join 
their comrades. Tlioug-h the advance had set out 
from Pine Island by themselves, they did not oc- 
cupy all the boats in the fleet. Part of the second 
brigade, therefore, had embarked about twelve 
hours after their departure ; and rowing leisurely 
on, were considerably more than half way across 
the lakes when the action began. In the stillness 
of night, however, it is astonishing at what dis- 
tance a noise is heard. Though they must have 
been at least twenty miles from the Bayo when 
the schooner first opened her fire, the sound 
reachins: them roused the rowers from their 
indolence, who pulling with all their might, hur- 
ried on, whilst the most profound silence reigned 
among the troops, and gaining the creek in 
little more than three hours, sent fresh reinforce- 
ments to share in the danger and glory of the 
night. 

Nor was a moment lost by the sailors in re- 



306 ADVANCE. [CII. 

turning to the island. Intelligence of the com- 
bat spread like wildfire ; the boats were loaded 
even beyond what was strictly safe, and thus by- 
exerting themselves in a degree almost unparal- 
leled, our gallant seamen succeeded in bringing 
the whole army into position before dark on the 
24th. The second and third brigades, therefore, 
now took up their ground upon the spot where 
the late battle had been fought, and resting their 
right upon the woody morass, extended so far 
towards the river, as that the advance by wheel- 
ing up might continue the line across the entire 
plain. 

But instead of taking part in this formation, 
the advance was still fettered to the bank, from 
which it was additionally prevented from moving 
by the arrival of another large ship, which cast an- 
chor about a mile above the schooner. Thus were ■ 
three battalions kept stationary by the guns of 
these two formidable floating batteries, and it was 
clear that no attempt to extricate them could be 
made without great loss, unless midcr cover of 
niofht. During: the whole of the 24th, therefore, 
they remained in this uncomfortable situation ; 
but as soon as darkness had well set in, a change 
of position was effected. Withdrawing the troops, 
company by company, from behind the bank, 
General Keane stationed them in the village of 



XXI.] ADVANCE. 307 

huts ; by which means the high road was aban- 
doned to the protection of a piquet, and the left 
of the army covered by a large chateau. 

Being now placed beyond risk of serious an- 
noyance from the shipping, the whole army re- 
mained quiet for the night. How long we were 
to continue in this state nobody appeared to 
know; not a whisper was circulated as to the 
time of advancing, nor a surmise ventured re- 
specting the next step likely to be taken. In our 
guides, to whose rumours we had before listened 
with avidity, no further confidence was reposed. 
It w as quite evident, either that they had pur- 
posely deceived us, or that their information 
was gathered from a most imperfect source ; 
and hence, though they were not exactly placed 
in confinement, they were strictly watched, and 
treated more like spies than deserters. Instead 
of an easy conquest, w^e had already met with a 
vigorous opposition ; instead of finding the inha- 
bitants ready and eager to join us, we found the 
houses deserted, the cattle and horses driven away, 
and every appearance of hostility. To march by 
the only road was rendered impracticable, so com- 
pletely was it commanded by the shipping. In a 
word, all things had turned out diametrically 
opposite to what had been anticipated ; and it ap- 
peared, that instead of a trifling affair more 



308 ADVANCE. [CH. 

likely to fill our pockets, than to add to our re- 
nown, we liad embarked in an undertaking which 
presented difficulties not to be surmounted with- 
out patience and determination. 

Having effected this change of position, and 
covered the front of his army wdth a strong chain of 
outposts, General Keane, as I have said, re- 
mained quiet during the remainder of the night, 
and on the morrow was relieved from further care 
and responsibility by the unexpected arrival of Sir j 
Edward Pakenham and General Gibbs. As soon 
as the death of Ross w^as knoAvn in London, the 
former of these officers was dispatched to take 
upon himself the command of the army. Sailing 
immediately with the latter, as his second in com- 
mand, he had been favoured, during the whole 
voyage, by a fresh and fair w^ind, and now arrived 
in time to see his troops brought into a predica- 
ment from which all his abilities could scarcely 
expect to extricate them. Nor were the troops 
themselves io-norant of the unfavourable circum- 
stances in which they stood. Hoping every thing, 
therefore, from a change, they greeted their new 
leader with a hearty cheer; whilst the confidence 
which past events had tended in some degree to 
dispel, returned once more to the bosoms of all. 
It was Christmas Dav, and a number of officers 
clubbing their little stock of provisions, resolved 



XXI.] ATTACK. 309 

to dlnc together in memory of former times. But 
at so melancholy a Christmas dinner I do not re- 
collect at any time to have been present. We 
dined in a barn ; of plates, knives, and forks, there 
Avas a dismal scarcity, nor could our fare boast of 
much either in intrinsic good quality, or in the 
way of cooking. These, however, were mere 
matters of merriment : it was the want of many 
wcll-knov/n and beloved faces that gave us pain ; 
nor were any other subjects discussed, besides the 
amiable qualities of those who no longer formed 
part of our mess, and never would again form part 
of it. A few guesses as to the probable success 
of future attempts alone relieved this topic, and 
now and then a shot from the schooner drcAv our 
attention to ourselves ; for though too far removed 
from the river to be in much danger, we were still 
within cannon-shot of our enemy. Nor was she 
inactive in her attempts to molest. Elevating her 
guns to a great degree, she contrived occasionally 
to strike the wall of the buildins: within which 
we sat ; but the force of the ball was too far spent 
to penetrate, and could therefore produce no seri- 
ous alarm. 

Whilst we were thus sitting at table, a loud 
shriek was heard, after one of these explosions, 
and on running out, we found that a shot had 
taken effect in the body of an unfortunate soldier. 



310 ATTACK. [CH. 

I mention tliis incident, because I never beheld 
in any human being so great a tenacity of life. 
Though fairly cut in two at the lower part of the 
belly, the poor wretch lived for nearly an hour, 
gasping for breath, and giving signs even of pain. 
But to return to my narrative : as soon as he 
reached the camp, Sir Edward proceeded to ex- 
amine, with a soldier's eye, every point and ])lace 
within view. Of the American army nothing 
whatever could be perceived, except a corps of 
observation, composed of five or six hundred 
mounted riflemen, which hovered along our front, 
and watched our motions. The town itself was 
com})lctely hid, nor was it possible to see beyond 
the distance of a very few miles, either in front 
or rear, so flat and unbroken was the face of the 
country. Under these circumstances, little insight 
into the state of affairs could be obtained by 
reconnoitring. The only thing, indeed, which he 
could learn from it was, that while the vessels 
kept their present station upon the river, no ad- 
vance could be made ; and, as he felt that every 
moment's delay was injurious to us, and favour- 
able to the enemy, he resolved to remove these 
incumbrances, and to push forward as soon as 
possible. 

With this view nine field-pieces, two howitzers, 
and one mortar, were brought down to the brink 



XXI.] ATTACK. 311 

of the stream as soon as it was dark. Working 
parties were likewise ordered out, by whom a bat- 
tery was thrown up opposite to the schooner ; and 
having got all things in readiness, at dawn on the 
26th a heavy cannonade was opened upon her with 
I'ed-hot shot. It was not long before we could per- 
ceive her crew hastening into their boats, whilst 
the smoke, which began to rise from her decks, 
proved that the balls had taken effect. She was, 
in fact, on fire, and being abandoned without re- 
sistance, in little more than an hour she blew up. 
In itself the sight was a fine one, but to us it 
was peculiarly gratifying, for we could not but 
experience something like satiated revenge at the 
destruction of a vessel from which we had suffered 
so much damage. A loud shout accordingly fol- 
lowed the explosion, and the guns were imme- 
diately turned against the ship. But the fate of 
her companion had warned her not to remain till 
she herself should be attacked. Setting every inch 
of canvass, and hoisting out her boats, she began 
to stem the stream at the very instant the schooner 
took fire, and being impelled forward both by tow- 
ing and sailing, she succeeded in getting beyond 
the range of shot before the guns could be brought 
to bear. One shell, however, was thrown with ad- 
mirable precision, which, falling upon her deck, 
caused considerable execution ; but, excepting this. 



312 ATTACK. [CH. 



t 



II 



slie escaped witliout injury, and did not anchor 
again till she had got too far for pursuit. 

Having thus removed all a])parent obstacles to 
his future progress, the General made dispositions j| 
for a speedy advance. Dividing the army into two 
columns, he appointed General Gibbs to the com- 
mand of one, and General Keane to the command 
of the other. The left column, led on by the lat- 
ter officer, consisted of the 95th, the S5th, the 93rd, 
and one black corps ; the right, of the 4th, 21st, 
44th, and the other black corps. The artillery, of 
which Ave had now ten pieces in the field, thougli 
at present attached to the left column, was de- 
signed to act as circumstances and ihc nature of the 
ground would permit ; whilst the dragoons, few of 
whom had as yet provided themselves with horses, 
were appointed to guard the hospitals, and to 
secure the wounded from any sudden surprise or 
molestation from the rear. 

But the day was too far spent in making these i 
arrangements, and in clearing the Avay for future 
operations, to permit any movement before the 
morrow. The whole of the 26th was therefore 
spent in bringing up stores, ammunition, and a 
few heavy guns from the ships, which being placed 
in battery upon the banks of the river, secured us 
against the return of our floating adversary. All ' 
this was done quietly enough, nor was there any 



XXI.] ATTACK. 313 

cause of alarm till after sunset; but from tliat 
time till towards dawn, we were kept in a con- 
stant state of anxiety and agitation. Sending down 
small bodies of riflemen, the American General 
harassed our piquets, killed and wounded a few of 
the sentinels, and prevented tlie main body from 
obtaining any sound or refreshing sleep. Scarcely 
had the troops lain down, when they were roused 
b}' a sharp firing at the out-posts, which lasted only 
till they were in order, and then ceased ; but as 
soon as they had dispersed, and had once more 
addressed themselves to repose, the same cause of 
alarm returned, and they were again called to their 
ranks. Thus was the entire night spent in watch- 
ing, or at best in broken and disturbed slumbers, 
than which nothing is more trying, both to the 
health and spirits of an arm3\ 

With the piquets, again, it fared even worse. 
For the out-posts of an army to sleep, is at all times 
considered as a thing impossible ; but in modern 
and civilized warfare they are nevertheless looked 
upon as, in some degree, sacred. Thus, whilst 
two European armies remain inactively facing each 
other, the out-posts of neither are molested, imless 
a direct attack upon the main body be intended ; 
nay, so far is this tacit crood understandinc;- carried, 
that I have myself seen French and English sen- 

p 



n 



314 MARCH. [CH. 

tincls not more than twenty yards apart. But tlic 
Americans entertained no such chivah'ic notions. 
An enemy was to them an enemy, whether alone, 
or in the midst of five thousand companions ; and 
they therefore counted the death of every indivi- 
dual as so much taken from the strenirth of the 
whole. In point of fact, they no doubt reasoned 
correctly, hut to us at least it appeared an unge- 
nerous return to barharity. AVlienever they could 
approach unperceived within proper distance of 
our watch fires, six or eight riflemen would fire 
amongst the party that sat round them, while one 
or two, stealing as close to each sentinel as a re- 
gard to their own safety would permit, acted the 
part of assassins rather than that of soldiers, and 
attempted to murder him in cold blood. For the 
officers, likewise, when going their rounds, they 
constantly lay in wait, and thus, by a continued 
dropping fire, they not only wounded some of 
those against whom their aim was directed, but 
occasioned considerable anxiety and uneasiness 
throughout the whole line. 

It was on this night, and under these circum- 
stances, that I v/as indebted to the vigilance of 
my faithfid dog for my hfe. Amid all the bustle 
of landing, and throughout the tumult of the 
nocturnal battle, she never strayed from me ; at 



XXI.] MARCH. 3] 5 

least if she did lose me for a time, she failed not to 
trace me out again as soon as order was restored ; 
for I found her by my side^ when the dawn of 
the 24th came in ; and I never lost sight of her 
afterwards. It was my fortune, on the night of the 
26th, to be put in charge of an out-post on the 
left front of the army; on such occasions I seldom 
experienced the slightest inclination to sleep; 
and on the present, I made it a point to visit my 
sentinels at least once in every half hour. Going 
my rounds for this purpose, it was necessary that 
I should pass a little copse of low underwood, 
just outside of the line of our videttes ; and I did 
pass it again and again, without meeting with 
any adventure. But about an hour after midnip'ht, 
my dog, which, as usual, trotted a few paces be- 
fore me, suddenly stopped short at the edge of 
the thicket, and began to bark violent!}^, and in 
great a,pparent anger. I knew the animal well 
enough to be aware that some cause must exist 
for such conduct ; and I too stopped short, till 
I should ascertain whether danger were near. It 
was well for me that I had been thus warned ; 
for at the instant of my halting, about half-ar 
dozen muskets were discharged from the copse, 
the muzzles of which, had I taken five steps for- 
ward, must have touched my body. The balls 
whizzed harmlessly past my head; and, on my 

p2 



316 MARCH. [CU, 

returning the fire witli the pistol which I carried 
in my liand, tlie ambuscade l)rolve up, and the 
party composing- it took to their heels. I was 
Quixote enough to dash sword in hand into the 
thicket after them : but no one waited for me ; so 
I continued my perandudations in peace. 

Having continued this detestable system of 
warfare till towards morning, the enemy retired, 
and left us at rest. But as soon as day began to 
break, our ])i([uets were called in, and the troops 
formed in order of attack. The riiilit column, 
under General (libbs, took post near the skirts of 
the morass, tlirowing out skirmishers half way 
across the plain, whilst the left column drew up 
u])on the road covered by the ritlc corps, wliicli 
in extended order met the skirmishers from the 
other. With tliis last division went the artillcr}', 
already well supplied with liorses; and, at the 
signal given, the whole moved forward. 

It was a clear frosty morning, the mists liad 
dispersed, and the sun shone brightly upon our 
arms when we began our march. Tlie enemy's 
cor])s of observation fell back as we advanced, 
witliout offering in any way to impede our pro- 
gress, and it was impossible to guess, ignorant 
as we were of the position of his main body, at 
what moment opposition might be expected. Nor, 
in truths was it matter of much anxiety. Our 



xxl] march. 317 

spirits, in spite of the troubles of the niglit, were 
good, and our expectations of success were high, 
consequently many rude jests were bandied about, 
and many careless words spoken : for soldiers are, 
of all classes of men, the freest from care, and 
on that account, perhaps, the most happy. By 
being continually exposed to it, danger with 
them ceases to be frightful ; of death they have 
no more terror than the beasts that perish ; and 
even hardships, such as cold, w^et, hunger, and 
brohen rest, lose at least part of their clisagree- 
ableness, by the frequency" of their recurrence. 

Moving on in this merry mood, we advanced 
about four or five miles without the smallest 
check or hindrance ; when, at length, we found 
ourselves in view of the enemy's army, posted in 
a very advantageous manner. About forty yards 
in their front w^as a canal, which extended from 
the morass to within a short distance of the high 
road. Along their line were thrown up breast- 
works, not indeed completed, but even now for- 
midable. Upon the road, and at several other 
points were erected powerful batteries; whilst the 
ship,, Avith a large flotilla of gun-boats, flanked the 
vdiole position from the river. 

When I say that we came in sight of the enemy, 
I do not mean that he was gradually exposed to 
us in such a manner, as to leave time for cool 



I 

318 ATTACK. [Cll. 

examination and reflection. On the right, indeed, 
he was seen for some time, but on the left, a few 
houses built at a turning in the road entirely con- 
cealed him ; nor was it till they had gained that 
turning, and beheld the muzzles of his guns point- 
ed towards them, that those who moved in this 
direction were aware of their proximity to danger. 
But that danger was indeed near, they were quick- 
ly taught ; for scarcely had the head of the cohunn 
passed the houses, when a deadly fire was opened 
from both the battery and the shipping. That the 
Americans are excellent marksmen, as well with 
artillery as with rifles, we have had frequent cause 
to acknowledge ; but, perhaps, on no occasion did 
they assert their claim to the title of good artillery- 
men more efiectually than on the present. Scarce 
a ball passed over, or fell short of its mark, but 
all strikino' full into the midst of our ranks, oc- 
casioned terrible havoc. The shrieks of the 
wounded, therefore, the crash of firelocks, and 
the fall of such as were killed, caused at first some 
little confusion ; and what added to the panic, 
was, that from the houses beside which we stood 
bright flames suddenly burst out. The Americans, 
expecting this attack, had filled them with com- 
bustibles for the purpose ; and directing against 
them one or two gruns, loaded with red-hot shot, 
in an instant set them on fire. The scene was 



XXI.] ATTACK. 319 

altogether very sublime. A tremendous cannon- 
ade mowed down our ranks, and deafened us with 
its roar; whilst two large chateaux and their 
out-buildings almost scorched us wdth the ilames, 
and blinded us with the smoke which they 
emitted. 

The infantry, however, was not long suffered to 
remain thus exposed ; but, being ordered to quit 
the path, and to form line in the fields, the artil- 
lery was brought up, and opposed to that of the 
enemy. But the contest was in every respect un- 
equal, since their artillery far exceeded ours, both 
in numerical strength and weight of metal. The 
consequence ^vas, that in half an hour, two of our 
field-pieces, and one field -mortar, were dismounted; 
many of the gunners were killed ; and the rest, 
after an ineffectual attempt to silence the fire of 
the shipping, were obliged to retire. 

In the mean time the infantry, having formed 
line, advanced under a heavy discharge of round 
and grape shot, till they were checked by the ap- 
pearance of the canal. Of its depth, they were of 
course ignorant, and to attempt its passage with- 
out having ascertained whether it could be forded^ 
might have been productive of fatal consequences. 
A halt was accordingly ordered, and the men ^vere 
commanded to shelter themselves as well as they 
could from the enemy's fire. For this purpose. 



320 RETREAT. [CH, 

they were hurried into a wet ditch, of sufficient 
depth to cover the knees, where, leaning- forward, 
they concealed themselves behind some high 
rushes wliich grew upon its brink, and thus 
escaped many bullets which fell around them in 
all directions. 

Thus fared it with the left of the army, whilst 
the right, though less exposed to the cannonade, 
was not more successful in its object. The same 
impediment which checked one column, forced tlic 
other likewise to pause ; and after having driven 
in an advanced body of the enemy, and endea- 
voured, without effect, to penetrate through the 
marsh, it also was commanded to halt. In a 
word, all thought of attacking was for tliis day 
abandoned ; and it now only remained to with 
draw tlie troops from their present perilous situ- 
ation, with as little loss as possible. 

The first thing to be done was to remove the 
dismounted guns. Upon this enterprise a party 
of seamen was employed, who, running forward to 
the spot where they lajr, lifted them, in spite of 
the whole of the enemy's fire, and bore them off 
in triumph. As soon as this was effected, regiment 
after regiment stole away ; not in a body, but one 
by one, under the same discharge which saluted 
their approach. But a retreat, thus conducted, 
necessarily occupied much time. Noon had there- 



XXI.] RETREAT. 321 

fore long' past before the last corps was brought 
off; and when we again began to master, twilight 
was approaching. We did not, however, retire to 
our former position; but having fallen back only 
about two miles from the canal, where it was sup- 
posed that we should be beyond reach of annoy- 
ance from the American artillery, we there estab- 
lished ourselves for the night, having suffered less 
during the day than, from our exposed situation, 
and the enemy's heavy fire, might have been ex- 
pected. 

The ground which we now occupied resembled, 
in almost every particular, that which we had 
quitted. We again extended across the plain, 
from the marsh to the river ; no wood, or cover of 
any description concealing our line, or obstructing 
the view of either army ; while, both in front and 
rear, was an open space, laid out in fields, and 
intersected by narrow ditches. Our out-posts, 
however, were pushed forward to some houses 
within a few hundred yards of the enemy's works, 
sending out advanced sentinels even farther ; and 
the head-quarters of the army were established 
near the spot where the action of the 2.3rd had 
been fought. 

In this state we remained during the 28th, the 
29th, and 30th, without any efforts being made to 
fortify our own position, or to annoy that of the 

p o 



322 PREPARATIONS. [CH, 

enemy. Some attempts were, I believe, set on foot 
to penetrate into the wood on the right of our line, 
and to discover a path through the morass, by 
which the enemy's left might be turned. But all 
of these proved fruitless, and a few valuable lives 
having been sacrificed, the idea was fmally laid 
aside. In the meanwhile the American General 
directed the whole of his attention to the strength- 
ening of his post. Day and night we could observe 
numerous parties at work upon his lines, whilst 
from the increased number of tents, which almost 
every hour might be discerned, it was evident that 
strong reinforcements were continually pouring 
into his camp. Nor did he leave us totally un- 
molested. By giving to his guns a great degree of 
elevation, he contrived at last to reach our bivouac; 
and thus were we constantly under a cannonade 
wliich, though it did little execution, proved never- 
theless extremely annoying. Besides this, he now 
began to erect batteries on the opposite bank of 
the river; from which a flanking fire could be 
thrown across the entire front of his position. In 
short, he adopted every precaution wliich prvidence 
could suggest, and for the reception of which the 
nature of his ground was so admirably adapted. 

Under these circumstances, it was evident that *l 
the longer an attack was delayed, the less likely 
was it to succeed; that something must be done 



XXI.] PREPARATIONS. 323 

immediately every one perceived, but how to pro- 
ceed was the difficulty. If we attempted to storm 
the American lines, we should expose ourselves 
to almost certain destruction from their artillery ; 
to turn tliem, was impossible ; and to draw their 
troops by any manoeuvring from behind their 
entrenchments, was a thing altogether out of the 
question. There seemed, therefore, to be but one 
practicable mode of assault; which was, to treat 
these field-works as one would treat a regular for- 
tification ; by erecting breaching batteries against 
them, and silencing, if it were possible, at least 
some of their guns. To this plan, therefore, our 
leader had recourse ; and, in consequence, the 
whole of these three days were employed in land- 
ing heavy cannon, bringing up ammunition, and 
making such preparations as might have sufficed 
for a siege. 

At length, having completed his arrangements, 
and provided such means as were considered suf- 
ficient to ensure success. General Pakenham de- 
termined to commence operations without delay. 
One half of the army was accordingly ordered out 
on the night of the 31st, and marched to the 
front, passing the piquets, and halting about 
three hundred yards from the enemy's line. Here 
it was resolved to throw up a chain of works ; and 
here the greater part of this detachment, laying 



324' PREPARATIONS. [CH 

down their firelocks, applied tLemsclvcs vigor- 
ously to their tasks, whilst the rest stood armed 
and prepared for their defence. 

Tlie night was dark, and our people maintained 
a profoimd silence ; by which means, not an idea 
of what was going on existed in the American 
camp. As we laboured, too, with all diligence, 
six batteries were completed long before dawn, in 
which Avcre mounted thirty pieces of heavy can- 
non ; when, falling back a little way, we united 
ourselves to the remainder of the infantry, and 
lay down behind some rushes, in readiness to act, 
as soon as we should be Avanted. 

In the erection of these batteries, a circum- 
stance occurred worthy of notice, on account of 
its singularity. I liavc already stated, that the 
whole of this district was covered with the stubble 
of sugar-cane ; and I miglit have added, that 
every storehouse and barn, attached to the dif- 
ferent mansions scattered over it, was filled with 
barrels of sugar. In throwing up these works, 
the sugar was used instead of earth. Rolling the 
hogsheads towards the front, they were placed 
upright in the parapets of the batteries ; and it 
was computed, that sugar to the value of many 
thousand pounds sterling was thus disposed of 



XXlI.l ATTACK. 325 



CHAPTEH XXIL 

The infantry having retired, and the gunners 
taken their station, dawn was anxiously expected. 
But the morning of the 1st of January chanced 
to be peculiarly gloomy. A thick haze obscured 
for a long time the rays of the sun, nor could 
objects be discerned with any accuracy till a late 
hour. 

But, at length, the mist gave way, and the 
American camp was fully exposed to ^iew. Being 
at this time only three hundred yards distant, we 
could perceive all that was going forward Avitli 
c:rcat exactness. The diifcrcnt rco;iments were 
upon parade ; and being dressed in holiday suits, 
presented really a fine appearance. Mounted offi- 
cers were riding backwards and forwards through 
the ranks, bands were playing, and colours float- 
ing in the air ; in a word, all seemed jollity and 
gala; when suddenly our batteries opened, and 
the face of affairs w as instantly changed. The 
ranks were broken ; the different corps dispers- 
ing, fled in all directions, whilst the utmost terror 
and disorder appeared to prevail. Instead of 



32G RETREAT. [CH. 

nicely-dressed lines, notliing but confused crowds 
could now be observed ; nor was it without much 
difficulty that order was finally restored. Oh, 
that we had charged at that instant ! 

Whilst this consternation prevailed among the 
infantry, their artillery remained silent ; but as 
soon as the former rallied, they also recovered 
confidence, and answered our salute with great 
rapidity and precision . A heavy cannonade quicldy 
commenced on both sides, and continued during 
the whole of the day ; till, towards evening, our 
ammunition began to fail, and our fire in conse- 
quence to slacken. The fire of the Americans, 
on the other hand, was redoubled : landing a 
number of guns from the flotilla, they increased 
their artillery to a prodigious amount ; and di- 
recting, at the same time, the whole force of their 
cannon on the opposite bank, against the flank of 
our batteries, they soon convinced us, that all 
endeavours to surpass them in this mode of fight- 
inir would be useless. Once more, therefore, vrerc 
we obliged to retire, leaving our heavy guns to 
their fate ; but as no attempt was made by the 
Americans to secure them, working parties were 
again sent out after dark, and such as had not 
been destroyed were removed. 

Of the fatigue undergone during these opera- 
tions by the whole army, from the General down 



XXII.] PAUSE. 327 

to the meanest sentinel, it would be difficult to 
form an adequate conception. For two whole 
nights and days, not a man had closed an eye, 
except such as were cool enough to sleep amidst 
showers of cannon-ball ; and during the day, 
scarcely a moment had been allowed, in which we 
were able so much as to break our fast. We re- 
tired, therefore, not only baffled and disappointed, 
but in some degree disheartened and discontented. 
All our plans had as yet proved abortive ; even 
this, upon which so much reliance had been 
placed, was found to be of no avail ; and it must 
be confessed, that something like murmuring be- 
gan to be heard through the camp. And, in truth, 
if ever an army might be permitted to murmur, it 
was this. In landing, they had borne great hard- 
ships, not only without repining, but with cheer- 
fulness: their hopes had been excited by false 
reports, as to the practicability of the attempt in 
which they vv ere embarked ; and now they found 
themselves entangled amidst difficulties from 
which there appeared to be no escape, except by 
victory. In tlieir attempts upon the enemy's line, 
however, they had been twice foiled ; in artillery, 
they perceived themselves to be so greatly over- 
matched, that their own could hardly assist them ; 
their provisions, being derived wholly from the 
fleet, were both scanty and coarse ; and their rest 



32S PAUSE. . [cn. 

was continually broken. For not only did the can- 
non and mortars from the main oi' the enemy's 
])osition play unremittini^ly upon tliem Loth by 
day and night, but they were likewise exposed to 
a deadly fire from the opposite l)ank of tlie river, 
where no less than eigliteen pieces of artillery 
were now mounted, and swe]it the entire line of 
our encampment. Besides all this, to undertake 
the duty of a picpict was as dangerous as to go 
into action. Parties of American sharp-shooters 
harassed and disturbed those appointed to tliat 
service, from the time they took ])ossession of their 
post till tliev were relieved; \\hilst to light fires 
at night was impossible, because they served but 
as certain marks for the enemy's gunners. I re- 
peat, therefore, that a little murmuring could not 
be wondered at. Be it observed, however, that 
these were not the murmurs of men anxious to 
escape from a disagreeable situation by any 
means. On the contrary, they resembled rather 
the QTowlinir of a chained doi^, when lie sees his 
adversary, and cannot reach him ; for in all their 
complaints, no man ever hinted at a retreat, whilst 
all were eager to bring matters to the issue of a 
battle, at any sacrifice of lives. 

Nor was our gallant leader less anxious to fight 
than his followers. To fight upon something like 
equal terms was, however, liis wish ; and for this 



1' 

i 



XXII.] ATTACK. 329 

purpose a new scheme was invented, worthy, for 
its boldness, of the school in which Sir Edward 
had studied his profession. It was determined to 
divide the army, to send part across the river, who 
should seize the enemy's guns, and turn them on 
themselves* whilst the remainder should at the 
same time make a general assault along the whole 
entrenchment. But before this plan could be put 
into execution, it would be necessary to cut a canal 
across the entire neck of land from the Bavo de 
Catiline to the river, of sufficient width and depth 
to admit of boats being brought up from the lake. 
Upon this arduous undertaking were the troops 
immediately employed. Being divided into four 
companies, they laboured by turns, day and night ; 
one party relieving another after a stated number 
of hours, in such order as that the work should 
never be entirely deserted. The fatigue under- 
gone during the prosecution of this attempt, no 
words can sufficiently describe : yet it was pur- 
sued without repining, and at length, by unre- 
mitting exertions, they succeeded in effecting 
their purpose by the 6th of January. 

Whilst these things were going on, and men's 
minds were anxiously turned towards approaching 
events, fresh spirit was given to the army by the 
unexpected arrival of ^lajor General Lambert, 
with the 7th and 43rd; two fine battalions, mus- 



330 ATTACK. [CH. 

tcriiig each 800 effective men. By this reinforce- 
mciit, together with the addition of a body of 
sailors and marines from the fleet, our numbers 
amounted now to httle short of 6000 men; a 
force wliich, in ahnost any other quarter of Ame- 
rica, would have been irresistible. Of the num- 
bers of the enemy, again, various reports were in 
cii'culation ; some stating them at 20,000, others 
at 30,000 ; but I believe that I come nearer tlie 
truth when I supyiose their whole force to have 
comprised 1*2,000 men of all arms. It is at least 
certain, that they exceeded vis in numbers as 
much as they did in resources ; and that scarcely 
an hour passed which did not bring in new levies 
to their camp. 

The canal, as I have stated, being finished on 
the 6th, it was resolved to lose no time in making 
use of it. Boats were accordingly ordered up 
for the transportation of 1400 men ; and Colonel 
Thornton, with the 85th regiment, the marines, 
and a party of sailors, was appointed to cross the 
river. But a number of untoward accidents oc- 
curred, to spoil a plan of operations as accurately 
laid down as any in the course of the war. Tiic 
soil through which the canal was dug being soft, 
part of the bank gave way, and, choking up the 
channel, prevented the heaviest of the boats from 
getting forward. These again blocked up the 



■' 



XXII. J ATTACK. 331 

passage, so that none of those whicli were behind 
could proceed ; and thus, instead of a ilotilla for 
the accommodation of 1400 men, only a number 
i of boats sufficient to contain 350 was enabled to 

reach their destination. Even these did not arrive 

i 

at the time appointed. According to the precon- 
certed plan. Colonel Thornton's detachment was 
to cross the river immediately after dark. They 
were to push forward, so as to carry all the bat- 
teries, and point the guns before daylight ; when, 
on the throwing up of a rocket, they were to com- 
mence firing upon the enemy's line, which at the 
same moment was to be attacked by the main of 
our army. 

In this manner was one part of the force to act, 
whilst the rest were thus appointed. Dividing his 

I troops into three columns. Sir Edward directed, 
that General Keane, at the head of the 95th, the 
light companies of the 21st, 4th, and 44th, toge- 
ther with the two black corps, should make a de- 
monstration, or sham attack, upon the right ; that 
General Gibbs, with the 4th, 21st, 44th, and 
93rd, should force the enemv's left, whilst General 
Lambert, with the 7th and 43rd, remained in re- 
serve, ready to act as circumstances might require. 

j But in storming an entrenched position, some- 
thing more than bare courage is required. Scaling 
ladders and fascines had, therefore, been prepared. 



332 ATTACK. [CH. 

"with Avhich to fill up the ditch and mount the wall ; 
and smce to carry these was a service of danger, 
requiring a corps well worthy of dependence, tlic 
44th was for that purpose selected, as a regiment 
of sufficient numerical strength, and already ac- 
customed to American warfare. Thus were all 
thino:s arrano'cd on the nisjht of the 7th, for the 
Sth was fixed upon as the day decisive of the fate 
of New Orleans. 

^^'hilst the rest of the army lay down to sleep 
till they should he roused up to fight, Colonel 
Thornton, with the 85th, and a corps of marines 
and seamen, amounting in all to 1400 men, moved 
down to the brink of the river. As yet, however, 
no boats had arrived; hour after hour elapsed 
before thev came ; and when thev did come, the 
misfortunes which I have stated above were dis- 
covered, for out of all that had been ordered up, 
only a few made their appearance. Still it was 
absolutely necessary that this part of the plan 
should be carried into execution. Dismissing, 
therefore, the rest of his followers, the Colonel put 
himself at the head of his own regiment, about 
fifty seamen, and as many marines, and with this 
small force, consisting of no more than 340 men, 
pushed off. But, unfortunately, the loss of time 
nothing could repair. Instead of reaching the 
opposite bank at latest by midnight, dawn was 



XXll.J ATTACK. 333 

beginning to appear before the boats quitted the 
canal. It was in vain that they rowed on in perfect 
silence, and with oars muffled, gaining the point of 
debarkation without being perceived. It was in 
vain that they made good their landing and formed 
upon the beach, without opposition or alarm ; day 
had already broke, and the signal-rocket was seen 
in the air, while they were yet four miles from the 
batteries, v.hich ought hours ago to have been 
taken. 

In the mean time, the main bodv armed and 
moved forward some vray in front of the piquets. 
There they stood waiting for daylight, and listen- 
ins: with the o'rcatest anxiety for the firiuir which 
ought now to be heard on the opposite bank. 
But their attention was exerted in vain, and day 
da's\'ned upon them long before they desired its 
appearance. Nor was Sir Edward Pakcnham dis- 
appointed in this part of his plan alone. Instead 
of perceiving everything in readiness for the as- 
sault, he saw his troops in battle arra}-, but not a 
ladder or fascine upon the field. The 4 Ith, which 
was appointed to carry them, had cither misunder- 
stood or neglected their orders ; and now headed 
the column of attack, without any means beins: 
provided for crossing the enemy's ditch, or scaling 
his rampart. 

The indio-nation of our brave leader on this 



334 ATTACK. [CH. 

occasion may be imagined, but cannot be de- 
scribed. Galloping towards Colonel Mullens, 
who led the 44th, he commanded liim instantly to 
return with his regiment for the ladders, but the 
opportunity of planting them was lost, and though 
they were brought up, it was only to be scattered 
over the held by the frightened bearers. For our 
troops were by this time visible to the enemy. A 
dreadful fire was accordingly opened upon them, 
and they Avere mowed down by hundreds, while 
they stood waiting for orders. 

Seeing that all his well-laid plans were frus- 
trated, Pakenham gave the word to advance, and 
the other regiments, leaving the 44th with the 
ladders and fascines behind them, rushed on to 
the assault. On the left, a detachment under 
Colonel Eennic, of the 21 st regiment, stormed a 
three- gun battery, and took it. Here they re- 
mained for some time in expectation of sup- 
port; but none arriving, and a strong column of 
the enemy forming for its recovery, they deter- 
mined to anticipate the attack, and pushed on. 
The battery which they had taken was in advance 
of the body of the works, being cut off from it by a 
ditch, across which onl}^ a single plank was thrown. 
Along this plank did these brave men attempt to 
pass ; but being opposed by overpowering num- 
bers, they were repulsed ; and the Americans, in 



XXI r.] ATTACK. 335 

turn, forcing tlieir way into the battery, at Icnfyth 
succeeded in recapturing it with immense slaugh- 
ter. On the right, again, the 21st and 4th, sup- 
ported by the 93rd, though thrown into some con- 
fusion by the enemy's lire, pushed on with despe- 
rate gallantry to the ditch ; but to scale the parapet 
without ladders was a Avork of no slight difficulty. 
Some few, indeed, by mounting one upon another's 
shoulders, succeeded in entering the worlcs, but 
these were speedily overpowered, most of them 
killed, and the rest taken ; whilst as many as stood 
without were exposed to a sweeping fire, vrhich cut 
them down by whole companies. It was in vain 
that the most obstinate courage was displayed. 
They fell by the hands of men whom they abso- 
lutely did not see ; for the Americans, w ithout so 
much as lifting their faces above the rampart, 
swung their firelocks by one arm over the wall, 
and discharged them directly upon their heads. 
The whole of the guns, likewise, from the opposite 
bank, kept up a well-directed and deadly cannon- 
ade upon their flank ; and thus were they destroyed 
without an opportunity being given of displaying 
their valour, or obtaining so much as revenge. 

Sir Edward saw how things were going, and 
did all that a General could do to rally his broken 
troops. Hiding towards the 4-lth, which had re- 
turned to the ground, but in great disorder, he 



33G ATTACK. [CJI. 

called out for Colonel Mullens to advance ; but 
that officer had disappeared, and was not to be 
found. He therefore prepared to lead them on 
himself, and had put himself at their head for 
that purpose, when he received a slight wound in 
the knee from a musket-ball, which killed his 
liorse. jNIounting' another, lie again lieaded the 
44th, when a second ball took effect more fatall}', | 
and he dropY)ed lifeless into the arms of his aide- 
de-camp. 

Nor were Generals Gibbs and Keane inactive. 
Hiding through the ranks, they strove by all 
means to encourage the assailants and recall the 
fugitives ; till at length both were wounded, and 
borne off the field. All was now confusion and 
dismav. AVithout leaders, ic^norant of what was 
to be done, the troops first halted and then began 
to retire ; till finally the retreat was changed into 
a llight, and they quitted the ground in the ut- 
most disorder. But the retreat was covered in 
gallant style by the reserve. Making a forward 
motion, the 7th and 43rd presented the appear- 
ance of a renewed attack ; by which the enemy 
were so much awed, that they did not venture 
beyond their lines in pursuit of the fugitives. 

Whilst affairs were thus disastrously conducted 
in this quarter, the party under Colonel Thorn- 
ten had gained the landing-place. On stepping 



XXII.] ATTACK. 337 

asliorc, tliG first thing- tliey beheld was a rocket 
thrown np as a signal that the battle was begun. 
This unwelcome sight added wings to their speed. 
Forming in one little column, and pushing for- 
ward a single company as an advanced guard, 
they hastened on, and in half an hour reached a 
canal, along the opposite bank of which a detach- 
ment of Americans was drawn up. To dislodge 
them was the work of a moment : a boat Avith a 
carronade in her bow, got upon their flank, gave 
them a single discharge of grape, whilst the ad- 
vanced guard extended its ranks and approached 
at double quick time. But they scarcely waited 
till the latter were within rano^e, when, iirinir a 
volley, they fled in confusion. This, however, was 
only an out-post : the main body was some way in 
rear, and amounted to no fewer than 1500 men. 

It was not long, however, before they likewise 
presented themselves. Like their countrymen on 
the other side, they were strongly entrenched, a 
thick parapet with a ditch covering their front ; 
whilst a battery upon their left swept the whole 
position, and two fleld-pieces commanded the 
road. Of artillery the assailants possessed not a 
single piece, nor any means, beyond what nature 
supplied, of scaling the rampart. Yet nothing 
daunted by the obstacles before them, or by the 
immense odds to which they were opposed, dis- 

Q 



338 HALT. [CH. 

positions for an immediate attack were made. 
The 85th extending its files, stretched across the 
entire line of the enemy, the sailors in column 
prepared to storm the battery, whilst the marines 
remained some little way in rear of the centre as 

a reserve. 

These arrangements being completed, the bugle 
sounded, and our troops advanced. The sailors 
raising a shout, rushed forward, but were met by 
so heavy a discharge of grape and canister, that 
for an instant they paused, llecovering them- 
selves, however, they again pushed on ; and the 
85th dashing forward to their aid, they received 
a heavy fire of musketry, and endeavoured to 
charge. A smart firing was now for a few mi- 
nutes kept up on both sides, but our people had J 
no time to waste in distant fighting, and accord- 
ingly hurried on to storm the works ; upon which 
a panic seized the Americans, they lost their 
order, and fled, leaving us in possession of their 
tents and of eighteen pieces of cannon. 

In this affair our loss amounted to only three 
men killed and about forty wounded, among the 
latter of whom was Colonel Thornton. Nor could 
the loss on the part of the enemy greatly exceed 
our o\vn. Had they stood firm, indeed, it is 
hardly conceivable that so small a force could 
have wrested an entrenched position from numbers 



XXII.] RE-EMBARKATION. 339 

SO superior ; at least it could not have been done 
without much bloodshed. But they were com- 
pletely surprised. An attack on this side was a 
circumstance of which they had not dreamed ; 
and when men are assaulted in a point which they 
deem beyond the reach of danger, it is well known 
that they defend themselves with less vigour than 
where such an event was anticipated. 

When in the act of storming these lines, the 
word was passed through our ranks, that all liad 
gone Avell on the opposite bank. This naturally 
added to the vigour of the assault ; but we had 
not followed our flying enemy above two miles, 
when we were commanded to halt. The real state 
of the case had now reached us, and the same 
messenger who brought the melancholy news, 
brouo;ht likewise an order to return. 

The place where we halted was in rear of a 
canal, across which was thrown a wooden bridge, 
furnishing, apparently, the only means of passing. 
At the opposite end of this bridge stood a collec- 
tion of wooden cottages, and one chateau of some 
size. Here a company was stationed, to serve the 
double purpose of a piquet, and a rear-guard ; 
whilst the main body, having rested for half an 
hour, began their march towards the point where 
they had landed. 

q2 



340 EE-EMBARKATION. [CH. 






i 



i\ 



As soon as the column had got sufficiently on 
their way, the piquet likewise prepared to follow. ^ 
But, in doing so, it was evident that some risk 
must be run. The enemy having rallied, began 
again to show a front ; that is to say, parties of i 
sixty or a hundred men approached to recon- 
noitre. Tliese, however, must be deceived, otlier- 
wise a pursuit might be commenced, and the ' 
re-embarkation of the whole corps hindered or 
prevented. It so happened, that the piquet in 
question was tliis day under my command ; as 
soon, therefore, as I received information that the 
main body had commenced its retreat, I formed 
my men, and made a show of advancing. The i 
Americans perceiving this, fled; when wheeling 
about, we set fire to the chateau; and, under 
cover of the smoke, destroyed the bridge and . 
retreated. Making all haste towards the rear, wc 
overtook our comrades just as they had begun to 
embark; when the little corps being once more 
united, entered their boats, and reached the op- 
posite bank without molestation. 



XXIII.] 341 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

As soon as tlie whole army was re-united, and 
the broken regiments had recovered their order^ 
a flag of truce was dispatched with proposals for 
the burial of the dead. To accomplish this end, 
a truce of two days was agreed upon, and parties 
were immediately sent out to collect and bury 
their fallen comrades. Prompted by curiosity, I 
mounted my horse and rode to the front ; but of / 
all the sights I ever witnessed, that which met me 
there was beyond comparison the most shocking, v 
and the most humiliating. Within the narrow 
compass of a few hundred yards, were gathered 
together nearly a thousand bodies, all of them 
arrayed in British uniforms. Not a single Ame- ; 
rican was among them ; all were English ; and f 
they were thrown by dozens into shallow holes, 
scarcely deep enough to furnish them with a 
slight covering of earth. Nor was this all. An i 
American officer stood by smoking a cigar, and 
apparently counting the slain with a look of 
savage exultation ; and repeating over and over 
to each individual that approached him, that their 



342 THE CAMP. [CH. 

loss amounted only to eight men killed, and four- 
teen wounded. 

I confess, that when I beheld the scene, I hung 
down my head, half in sorrow and half in anger. 
With my officious informant I had every inclina- 
tion to pick a quarrel ; but he was on duty, and 
an armistice existed, both of which forbade the 
measure. I could not, however, stand by and re- 
press my choler, and since to give it vent would 
have subjected me to more serious inconvenience 
than a mere duel, I turned my horse's head, and 
galloped back to the camp. 

But the change of expression, visible there in 
every countenance, no language can portray. 
Only twenty hours ago, and all was life and ani- 
mation ; wherever you went you were enlivened 
by the sound of merriment and raillery ; wliilst 
the expected attack was mentioned in terms in- 
dicative not only of sanguine hope, but of the 
most perfect confidence as to its result. Now 
gloom and discontent everywhere prevailed. Dis- 
appointment, grief, indignation, and rage, suc- 
ceeded each other in all bosoms; nay, so com- 
pletely were the troops overwhelmed by a sense 
of disgrace, that, for awhile, they retained their 
sorrow without so much as hinting at its cause. 
Nor was this dejection occasioned wholly b}'^ the 
consciousness of laurels tarnished. The loss of 



XXIII.] THE CAMP. 343 

comrades was to the full as afflicting as the loss of 
honour; for out of more than 5000 men brought 
on this side into the field, no fewer than 1500 had 
fallen. Among these were two Generals (for 
Gibbs survived his wound but a few hours), and 
man}' officers of courage and abiUty ; besides 
which, hardly an individual survived who had not 
to mourn the loss of some particular and well- 
known companion. 

Yet it is most certain that, amidst all this variety 
of conflicting passions, no feeling bordering upon 
despair, or even terror, found room. Even among 
the private soldiers no fear was experienced, for 
if you attempted to converse with them on the 
subject of the late defeat, they would end with a 
bitter curse upon those to whose misconduct they 
attributed their losses, and refer you to the future, 
when they hoped for an opportunity of revenge. 
To the Americans they W'Ould allow^ no credit, 
laying the entire blame of the failure upon certain 
individuals among themselves ; and so great was 
the indignation expressed against one coi-ps, that 
the soldiers of other regiments would hardly ex- 
change words with those who chanced to wear 
that uniform. Though deeply afflicted, therefore, 
we were by no means disheartened, and even yet 
anticipated, with an eagerness far exceeding what 
was felt before, a renewal of the combat. 



344 PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. [CH. 

But General Lambert, on whom tlie chief com- 
mand had devolved;, very prudently determined 
not to risk the safety of his army by another at- 
tempt upon works evidently so much beyond their 
strength. He considered, and considered justly, 
that his chances of success were in every respect 
lessened by the late repulse. In the first place, an 
extraordinary degree of confidence was given to 
the enemy ; in the next place, the only feasible 
plan of attack having been already tried, they 
Avould be more on their guard to prevent its 
being again put in execution ; and, lastly, his own 
force was greatly diminished in numbers, whilst 
theirs continued every day to increase. Besides, 
it would be casting all upon the hazard of a die. 
If again defeated, nothing could save our army 
from destruction, because, unless it retreated in 
force, no retreat could be effected. A retreat, 
therefore, whilst yet the measure appeared prac- 
ticable, was resolved upon, and towards that end 
were all our future ojDcrations directed. 

To the accomplishment of this desirable object, 
however, one great obstacle existed; — by what 
road were the troops to travel, and in what order 
were they to regain the fleet ? On landing, we had 
taken advantage of the creek or bayo, and thus 
come up by water within two miles of the culti- 
vated country. But to adopt a similar course in 



XXIII.] PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. 345 

returiimg was impossible. In spite of our losses, 
there were not throughout the armament a suf- 
ficient number of boats to transport above one 
half of the army at a thne. If, however, we 
should separate, the chances were that both par- 
ties would be destroyed ; for those embarked 
might be intercepted, and those left behind would 
be obliged to cope with the entire American force. 
Besides, even granting that the Americans might 
be repulsed, it would be impossible to take to our 
boats in their presence ; and thus at least one di- 
vision, if not both, must be sacrificed. 

To obviate this difficulty, yn-udence required 
that the road which we had formed on landing, 
should be continued to the very margin of the 
lake ; whilst appearances seemed to indicate the 
total impracticability of the scheme. From firm 
ground to the water s edge was here a distance of 
many miles, through the very centre of a morass 
where human foot had never before trodden. Yet 
it was desirable at least to make the attempt; 
for if it failed, we should only be reduced to our 
former alternative of gaining a battle, or surren- 
dering at discretion. 

Having determined to adopt this course. Gene- 
ral Lambert immediately dispatched strong work- 
ing parties, under the guidance of engineer officers, 
to lengthen the road, keeping as near as possible 

Q 5 



346 PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. [CH. 

to the margin of the creek. But the task as- 
siirned to them was burthened with innumerable 
difficulties. For the extent of several leagues no 
firm footing could be discovered, on which to rest 
the foundation of a path ; nor any trees to assist 
in forming hurdles. All that could be done, there- 
fore, was to bind together large quantities of 
reeds, and lay them across the quagmire ; by 
which means, at least the semblance of a road 
was produced, however wanting in firmness and 
solidity. But where broad ditches came in the 
way, many of which intersected the morass, the 
workmen were necessarily obliged to apply more 
durable materials. For these, bridges, composed 
in part of large branches brought with immense 
labour from the woods, were constructed; but 
they were, on the whole, little superior in point 
of strength to the rest of the path, for though the 
edges were supported by timber, the middle was 
filled up only with reeds. 

To complete this road, bad as it was, occupied 
the space of nine days, during which time our 
army remained in position without making any 
attempt to molest the enemy. The Americans 
however, were not so inactive. In the course of 
two days, six guns were again mounted upon the 
bank of the river, from which a continual fire 
was kept up upon our camp. The same mode of 



XXIII.] PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. 347 

proceeding was adopted in front, and thus, night 
and day, were we harassed by danger, against 
which there was no fortifying ourselves. Of the 
extreme unpleasantness of our situation, it is 
hardly possible to convey any adequate concep- 
tion. We never closed our eyes in peace, for we 
were sure to be awakened before many minutes 
elapsed, by the splash of a round shot or shell in 
the mud beside us. Tents we had none, but lay, 
some in the open air, and some in huts made of 
boards, or any materials that could be procured. 
From the first moment of our landing, not a man 
had undressed excepting to bathe ; and many had 
worn the same shirt for weeks together. Besides 
all this, heavy rains now set in, accompanied with 
violent storms of thunder and lightning, which 
lasting during the entire day, usually ceased to- 
wards dark, and gave place to keen frosts. Thus 
were we alternately wet and frozen ; wet all day, 
and frozen all night. With the out-posts, again, 
there was constant skirmishing. With what view 
the Americans v»^ished to drive them in, I cannot 
tell ; but every day were they attacked, and com- 
pelled to maintain their ground by dint of hard 
fighting. In one word, none but those who hap- 
pened to belong to this army can form a notion 
of the hardships which it endured, and the fatigue 
which it underwent. 



348 PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. [CH. 

Nor were these the only evils which tended to 
lessen our numbers. To our soldiers every in- 
ducement was held out by the enemy to desert. 
Printed papers, offering lands and money as the 
price of desertion, were thrown into the piquets, 
wdiilst individuals made a practice of approaching 
our posts, and endeavouring to persuade the very 
sentinels to quit their stations. Nor could it be 
expected that bribes so tempting would always 
be refused. Many desertions began daily to take 
place, and became before long so frequent, that 
the evil rose to be of a serious nature. 

There occurred, however, one instance of mag- 
nanimous fidelity, on the part of a British soldier, 
■which I cannot resist the inclination of repeating. 
A private of the 95th, whose name I should have 
joyfully mentioned had I not forgotten it, chanced 
one day to stand sentinel, when he was addressed 
by an American officer. The American offered 
him a hundred dollars and a quantity of land, if 
he would come over ; representing, at the same 
time, the superiority of a democratical govern- 
ment, and railing, as these persons generally do, 
against the title of king. Though the English- 
man heard what was said distinctly enough, he 
nevertheless pretended to be deaf, and begged 
his tempter to come a little nearer, that, in his 
own words, " he might tell him all about it." 



XXllI.] RETREAT. 349 

Jonathan, exulting at the prospect of drawing 
this fine fellow from his duty, approached within 
twenty paces of where he stood, wdien just as he 
had opened his mouth to renew his offer, the sen- 
tinel levelled his piece and shot him through the 
arm. Nor was he contented with inflicting this 
punishment. Walking forward, he seized his 
wounded enemy, and reproaching him with dis- 
honourable dealings, brought him in a prisoner 
to the camp. But unhappily, conduct such as 
this was rare ; in the course of a week, many men 
quitted their colours, and fled to the enemy. 

In the mean time, the whole of the wounded, 
except such as were too severely hurt to be re- 
moved, were embarked upon the canal, and sent 
off' to the fleet. Next followed the baggage and 
stores, with the civil officers, commissaries, pur- 
veyors, &c. ; and last of all, such of the light ar- 
tillery as could be withdrawn without trouble, or 
the risk of discovery. But of the heavy artillery, 
of which about ten pieces were mounted in front 
of the bivouac, and upon the bank of the river, no 
account was taken. They were ship's guns, of 
little value, and extremely cumbersome; conse- 
quently their removal, had it been practicable, 
would scarcely have rewarded the trouble. It 
was therefore determined to leave them behind ; 



350 RETREAT. [CH. 

and they were accordingly permitted to retain 
their stations to the last. 

These preparations being continued for some 
days, on the 1 7th no part of our force remained 
in camp except the infantry. Having therefore 
delayed only till the abandoned guns were ren- 
dered unserviceable, on the evening of the 18th it 
also began its retreat. Trimming the fires, and 
arranging all things in the same order as if no 
change were to take place, regiment after regi- 
ment stole away, as soon as darkness concealed 
their motions ; leaving the piquets to follow as a 
rear-guard, but with strict injunctions not to 
retire till daylight began to appear. As may be 
supposed, the most profound silence was main- 
tained ; not a man opening his mouth, except to 
issue necessary orders, and even then speaking in 
a whisper. Not a cough or any other noise was to 
be heard from the head to the rear of the column ; 
and even the steps of the soldiers were planted 
with care, to prevent the slightest stamping or 
echo. Nor was this extreme caution in any respect 
unnecessary. In spite of every endeavour to the 
contrary, a rumour of our intended movement had 
reached the Americans ; for we found them of late 
watchful and prying, whereas they had been for- 
merly content to look only to themselves. 



XXIII.] MARCH. 351 

For some time, that is to say, while our route 
lay along the high road and beside the brink of 
the river, the march was agreeable enough ; but as 
soon as we began to enter upon the path through 
the marsh, all comfort was at an end. Being con- 
structed of materials so slight, and resting upon a 
foundation so infirm, the treading of the first corps 
unavoidably beat it to pieces ; those which fol- 
lowed were therefore compelled to flounder on in 
the best way they could; and by the time the 
rear of the column gained the morass, all trace of 
a way had entirely disappeared. But not only 
yvere the reeds torn asunder and sunk by the pres- 
sure of those who had gone before, but the bog 
itself, which at first might have furnished a few 
spots of firm footing, was trodden into the con- 
sistency of mud. The consequence was, that 
every step sank us to the knees, and frequently 
higher. Near the ditches, indeed, many spots 
occurred which we had the utmost difficulty in 
crossing at all; and as the night was dark, there 
being no moon, nor any light except what the 
stars supplied, it was difficult to select our steps, 
or even to follow those who called to us that they 
were safe on the opposite side. At one of these 
places I myself beheld an unfortunate wretch 
gradually sink till he totally disappeared. I saw 
him flounder in, heard his cry for help, and ran 



352 HALT. [CH. 

forward with the intention of saving him; but 
before I had taken a second step, I myself sank 
at once as high as the breast. How I contrived 
to keep myself from smothering is more than I 
can tell, for I felt no solid bottom under me, and 
continued slowly to go deeper and deeper, till the 
mud reached my arms. Instead of endeavourinir to 
help the poor soldier, of whom nothing could now 
be seen except the head and hands, I was forced 
to beg assistance for myself; when a leathern can- 
teen strap being thrown to me, I laid hold of it, 
and was dragged out, just as my fellow- sufferer 
became invisible. 

Over roads such as these did we continue our 
journey during the whole of the night ; and in 
the morning reached a place called Fisherman's 
Huts, upon the margin of the lake. The name is 
derived from a clump of mud-built cottages, situ- 
ated in as complete a desert as the eye of man ^vas 
ever pained by beholding. They stand close to 
the water, upon a part of the morass rather more 
firm than the rest. Not a tree or bush of any 
description grows near them. As far as the eye 
could reach, a perfect ocean of reeds everywhere 
presented itself, except on that side where a view 
of the lake changed without fertilizing the pros- 
pect. Were any set of human beings condemned 
to spend their lives here, I should consider their 



XXUI.] HALT. 353 

fate as little superior to that of the solitary cap- 
tive ; but during many months of the year these 
huts are wholly unoccupied, being erected, as their 
name denotes, merely to shelter a few fishermen, 
while the fishinir season lasts. 

Here at leno-th we were ordered to halt ; and 
jDerhaps I never rejoiced more sincerely at any 
order than at this. Wearied with my exertions, 
and oppressed with want of sleep, I threw myself 
on the ground without so much as pulling off my 
muddy garments ; and in an instant all my cares 
and troubles were forgotten. Nor did I wake 
from that decy^ slumber for many hours, when I 
rose cold and stiff, and creeping beside a miser- 
able fire of reeds, addressed myself to the last 
morsel of salt pork which my wallet contained. 

The whole army had now come up, the picpiets 
having escaped without notice, or at least without 
annoyance. Forming along the brink of the lake, 
a line of out-posts was planted, and the soldiers 
were commanded to make themselves as comfort- 
able as they could. But, in truth, the word com- 
fort is one which cannot in any sense be applied 
to people in such a situation. Without tents or 
huts of any description (for the few from which 
the place is named were occupied by the General 
and other heads of departments), our bed was the 
morass, and our sole covering the clothes which 



354 HALT. [CH. 

had not quitted our backs for upwards of a month. 
Our fires, upon the size and goodness of which 
much of a soldier's happiness depends, were com- 
posed solely of reeds ; a species of fuel which, 
hke straw, soon blazes up, and soon expires 
again, almost without communicating any degree 
of warmth. But, above all, our pro\ isions were 
expended, and from what quarter to obtain an 
immediate supply it defied the most inventive 
genius to discover. Our sole dependence was 
upon the boats. Of these a flotilla lay ready to 
receive us, in which were embarked the black 
corps, with the 44lh, but they had brought with 
them only food for their own use. It was there- 
fore necessary that they should reach the fleet 
and return again, before they could furnish us 
with what we so much wanted. But the distance 
to the nearest of the shipping could not be less 
than eighty miles, and if the weather should be- 
come boisterous or the winds obstinately adverse, 
w^e might starve before any supply could arrive. 

These numerous grievances were, however, with- 
out remedy, and we bore them with patience ; 
though for two whole days the only provisions 
issued to the troops were some crumbs of biscuit 
and a small allowance of rum. For my own part 
I did not fare so badly as many others. Having 
been always fond of shooting, I took a firelock 



i\ 



XXIII.] HALT. 355 

and went in pursuit of wild ducks, which abounded 
tlu'oughout the bog. Wandering along in this 
quest I reached a lake, by the margin of which I 
concealed myself, and waited for my prey; nor 
was it long before I had an opportunity of firing. 
Several laro:e flocks flew over me, and I was for- 
tunate enough to kill three birds. But alas! 
those birds upon which I had already feasted in 
imagination, dropped into the water; my dog, 
more tired than her master, would not fetch them 
out, and they lay about twenty yards off, tantaliz- 
ing me with the sight of a treasure which I could 
not reach. Moving off" to another point, I again 
took my station where I hoped for better fortune ; 
but the same evil chance once more occurred, and 
the ducks fell into the lake. This was too much 
for a hungry man to endure ; the day was pierc- 
ingly cold, and the edge of the pool was covered 
wdth ice ; but my appetite was urgent, and I re- 
solved at all hazards to indulge it. Pulling off* my 
clothes, therefore, I broke the ice and plunged in ; 
and though shivering like an aspen leaf, I returned 
safely to the camp with a couple of birds. Next 
day I adopted a similar course, with like success ; 
but at the expense of what was to me a serious 
misery. My stockings of warm wool were the 
only part of my dress which I did not strip off, 
and to-day it unfortunately happened that one 



356 HALT. [CH. 

was lost. Ha^-ing secured my ducks. I attempted 
to land where the bottom was muddy ; but my 
leg stuck fast, and in pulling it out, off came the 
stocking ; to recover it was beyond my power, for 
the mud closed over it directly, and the conse- 
quence was, that till 1 regained the transport 
onlv one of mv feet could be warm at a time. To 
those who can boast of many pairs of fine cotton 
and woollen hose, this misfortune of mine may 
ap])ear light, but to me, who had only two stock- 
ings on shore, the loss of one was very grievous ; 
and I therefore request that I may not be sneered 
at, when I record it as one of the disastrous con- 
sequences of this ill-fated expedition. 



XXIV.] 35' 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

As soon as the boats returned, res-iment after 
reo'iment embarked, and set sail for the fleet ; but 
the distance beins: considerable, and the wind foul 
man}' days elapsed before the ^Yhole could be got 
oft'. Excepting in one trifling instance, however, 
no accident occurred, and by the end of the month 
we were all once more on board our former ships. 
But our return was far fi'om triumphant. We, 
who only seven weeks ago had set out in the 
surest confidence of glory, and, I may add, of 
emolument, were brought back dispirited and 
dejected. Our ranks were wofullv thinned, our 
chiefs slain, our clothing tattered and filthy, and 
even our discipline in some degree injured. A 
gloomy silence reigned throughout the armament, 
except when it was broken by the voice of lamen- 
tation over fallen friends ; and the interior of 
each ship presented a scene well calculated to 
prove the short-sightedness of human hope, and 
human prudence. 

The accident to which I allude was the capture 



358 THE LAKE. [CH. 

of a single boat by the enemy. About thirty men 
of the 14th drasroons ha\-ini' crowded into an 
unarmed barge, were proceeding slowly down the 
lake, when a boat mounting a carronade in its 
bow, suddenly darted from a creek, and made 
towards them. To escape was impossible : for 
their Lar^e was too heavily laden to move at a 
rate of even moderate rapidity ; and to fight, was 
equally out of the question, because of the supe- 
riority which their cannon gave to the Americans. 
The whole party was accordingly compelled to 
surrender to six men and an officer ; and havingr 
thrown their arms into the lake, their boat was 
taken in tow, and they were carried away pri- 
soners. 

This, however, was the only misfortune which 
occurred. Warned by the fate of their comrades, 
the rest kept together in little squadrons, each at- 
tended by one or more armed launches : and thus 
rowing steadily on, they gained the shipping, 
without so much as another attempt at surprisal 
beinsT made. 

On reaching the fleet, we found that a consi- 
derable reinforcement of troops had arrived from 
England. It consisted of the 40th Foot, a fine 
regiment, containing nearly a thousand men, 
which, i^orant of the fatal issue of our attack. 
had crossed the lakes, only to be sent back to the 



XXIV.] THE LAKE. 359 

ships, without so much as stepping on shore. The 
circumstance, however, produced httle satisfaction. 
Wc felt that the comins: of thrice the number 
could not recover what was lost, or recall past 
events : and therefore no rejoicing was heard, nor 
the slisrhtest reirard paid to the occurrence. Xav, 
so srr^'at was the despondency which had taken 
possession of men's minds, that not even a rumour 
respecting the next point of attack, obtained cir- 
culation ; whilst a sullen carelessness, a sort of 
inditference as to what might happen, seemed to 
have succeeded all our wonted curiosity, and con- 
fidence of success, in every undertaking. 

In this state we remained wind-bound till the 
4th of Februarv. when, at lenofth. irt'ttins: under 
weiirh. the fleet ran down as far as Cat Island. 
This is a spot of sandv soil at the mouth of the 
lake, remarkable for notliing except a solitiiry 
Spanish family, wliich possesses it. Completely 
cut off from the rest of the world, an old man. his 
\N'ife. two daughters, and a son. dwell here in ap- 
parent happiness and contentment. Being at least 
one hundred and twenty miles from the main, it 
is seldom that their Httle kinsrdom is visited bv 
strangers, and I believe that, till our arrival, the 
daughters, though grown up to womanhood, liad 
seen few faces besides those of their parents and 
brother. Their cottage, composed simply of a few 



360 MOBILE. [CH. 

bouglis, thatclicd and in-woven ^Yitll straw, is || 
beautifully sitviated witliin a sliort distance of 
tlic water. Two cows, and a few sheep, grazed 
beside it, whilst a small tract of ground covered 
witli stubble, and a little garden well stocked 
Avith fruit-trees and vegetables, at once gave 
proof of their industry, and showed the source 
from whence they supplied themselves with 
bread. 

Having remained here till the 7th, Ave again 
took advantage of a fair wind, and stood to sea. 
As soon as we had cleared the lake, we directed 
our course towards tlie east, steering, as it was 
rumoured, u})on Mobile ; nor was it long before 
we came in sight of the bay wiiich bears that 
name. It is formed by a projecting head-land, 
called Point Bayo, and a large island called Isle 
Dauphin. Upon the first is erected a small fort, 
possessing the same title with the promontory, 
Avhich commands the entrance ; for though the 
island is at least five miles from the main, there is 
no water for floating a ship of any burthen, except 
within a few hundred yards of the latter. The island 
is, like Cat Island, uninhabited, except by one fa- 
mily, and unprovided with any works of defence. 

As the attack of Mobile was professedly our 
object, it was clear that nothhig could be done 
previous to the reduction of the fort. The ships 



I1 



XXIV.] AT SEA. 361 

accordingly dropped anchor at tlie mouth of the 
l)ay, and immediate pre])arations were made for 
the siccre. But the fort was too inconsiderable in 
point of size to require the employment of all our 
forces in its investment. Whilst one brigade, there- 
fore, was allotted to this service, the rest proceeded 
to establish themselves on the island, where, carry- 
inir tents and other conveniences on shore, the first 
regular encampment wdiich we had seen since our 
arrival in this hemisphere was formed. 

The spot of ground, of which we had now taken 
possession, extended twelve miles in length, and 
fi-om one to three in width. Its soil is in general 
dry and sandy, well covered with grass, and or- 
namented by continued groves of pine, cedar, oak 
and laurel. On one side only is there a swamp, 
but not of sufficient size to contaminate the atmo- 
sphere of the whole, which is considered so pecu- 
liarly healthy, that the place is generally used as a 
depot for the sick in the American army. At pre- 
sent, as I have said, it was tenanted by no more 
than a single family, the master of which was a 
midshipman in the American navy, and banished 
hither for some misdemeanor ; but what was to 
lis of much greater importance, it was likewise 
stocked with cattle resembling in appearance the 
black cattle of the highlands of Scotland, and not 
behind them in point of wildness. 

R 



362 SIEGE. [CH. 

Whilst the remainder of the army spent their 
time here, the 4th, 21st, and 44th, being landed 
above the fort, were busied in the siege. This 
small work stands, as I have stated, at the extre- 
mity of a promontory. Towards the sea, its forti- 
fications are respectable enough, but on the land- 
sidc it is little better than a block-house. The 
ramparts being composed of sand, not more than 
three feet in thickness, are faced with plank barely 
cannon-proof; whilst a sand-hill rising within pis- 
tol-shot of the ditch, completely commands them. 
Within, again, the fort is as much wanting in ac- 
commodation as it is in strength. There are no 
bomb-proof barracks, nor any hole or arch under 1 
which men might find protection frofti shells ; in- 
deed, so deficient is it in common lodging-rooms, 
that a great part of the garrison slept in tents. To 
reduce this place, therefore, occupied but a short 
time. The troops having assembled on the 8th, . 
drove the enemy within their lines on the 9th, and 
broke ground the same evening. On the 10th, 
four eighteen-pounders with two howitzers Avere 
placed in battery upon the top of the sand-hill ; 
on the nth, the fort surrendered; and on the 
i2th, the garrison, consisting of four hundred 
men of the second American regiment, marched 
out with all the honours of war, and laid down 
their arms upon the glacis. 



I 

XXIV.] PEACE. 363 

With the reduction of this trifling work ended 
all liostilities in this quarter of America, for the 
army had scarcely re-assembled, when intelligence 
arrived from England of peace. The news reached 
us on the 14th, and I shall not deny that it was 
received with general satisfaction. Though war is 
the soldier's harvest, yet it must be confessed, that 
when carried on as it had of late been conducted, 
it is a harvest of Avhich men in time become weary; 
and many of us having been absent for several 
years from our native shores, experienced absolute 
delight at the prospect of returning once more to 
the bosom of our families. The communication 
was therefore welcomed with unfeigned joy, nor 
could any other topic of conversation gain atten- 
tion throughout the camp, except the anticipated 
re- embarkation. 

But as the preliminaries only had been signed, 
and as Mr. Maddisons approval was required be- 
fore we should be at liberty to depart, our army still 
continued stationary upon the island. Of the Pre- 
sident's conduct, however, no doubts were enter- 
tained ; all thoughts of future military operations 
were in consequence laid aside ; and the sole aim 
of every individual thenceforth was to make him- 
self as comfortable as circumstances would permit. 
To effect this end various expedients were adopted. 

Among others, a theatre was erected, in which 

r2 



364 PEACE. [CH. 

sucli officers as chose to exhibit performed for 
their own amusement, and the amusement of tlieir 
friends. In shooting and fishing', likewise, much 
of our time was spent ; and th\is, by adopting the 
usual expedients of idle men, we contrived to pass 
some days in a state of tolerable comfort. 

Occupations such as these, however, soon grew 
insipid, and it was with sincere rejoicing that on 
the 5th of March we were made accpiainted Avitli 
Mr. Maddison's agreement to the terms proposed. 
All was now hope and exultation, an immediate 
departure was anticipated, and those were pitied 
as unfortunate whose lot, it was supposed, might 
detain them even a day behind their fellows. But 
as yet no movement took place ; our provisions 
were not sufficient to authorize the undertaking 
so lonir a vova2:c as we must undertake, did we 
attempt to run for the nearest British settlement ; 
we were therefore compelled to remain where we 
were, till a frigate should return, which had been 
sent forward to solicit supplies from the governor 
of Cuba. 

During this interval, the same occupations were 
resorted to ; and others of a less agreeable nature 
undertaken. As summer came on, the island 
sent forth multitudes of snakes from their lurk- ^|, 
ing-places, which infested the camp, making their 
way in some instances into our very beds. This 



XXIV.] PEACE. 365 

kvas bad cnougli, but it was not the only nuisance 
to which we were subject. The aUigators, which 
during the winter months He in a dormant state, 
now began to awaken, and prowling about the 
margin of the pool, created no little alarm and 
agitation. Apparently confounded at our invasion 
of their territories, these monsters at first confined 
themselves to the marshy part of the island, but 
becoming by degrees more familiar, they soon ven- 
tured to approach the very precincts of the camp. 
One of them at length entered a tent, in which 
only a woman and child chanced to be, and hav- 
ing stared round as if in amazement, walked out 
again without offering to commit any violence. 
But the visit was of too serious a nature to be 
overlooked. Parties were accordingly formed for 
their destruction, and it was usual on the return 
of each from an excursion, instead of asking how 
many birds, to demand how many snakes and 
alligators they had shot. Of the former, indeed, 
great numbers were killed, and of the latter not 
a few, the largest of which measured about nine 
feet from the snout to the tail. 

Another employment, also, deserves to be noted, 
because it is truly characteristic of the boyish 
jolhty of young soldiers. Wearied with a state of 
idleness, the officers of the 7th, 43rd, and 14tli 
dragoons made an attack with fir-apples upon 



366 PEACE. [CH. 



' 



those of the 85th, 93rd, and 95th. For the space 
of some days the}' pelted each other, from morn- 
ing till night, laying ambuscades, and exhibiting, 
on a small scale, all the stratagems of war ; whilst 
the whole army, not even excepting the Generals 
themselves, stood by and spurred them on. 

But to continue a detail of such proceedings 
would only swell my narrative, without amusing 
my reader ; I shall therefore content myself with 
observing, that things remained in this state till 
the 14th of March, when the long-looked for fri- 
gate at length arrived, and on the i5th, the first 
division of the army embarking, set sail for Eng- 
land. The wind, however, was foul, nor did the 
ships make any Avay till the I7th, wdien a fresh 
breeze springing up, we stood our course, and by 
ten o'clock on the 21st, could distinguish the liigh 
land of Cuba. But the violence of the gale hav- , 
ing driven us considerably to leeward, we were 
forced to bear up, and beat along the coast, on 
which account it was not till the 23rd that we came, 
opposite to the port of Havannah. 

Than the approach to this city, and its first 
appearance from the water, it is impossible to con- 
ceive any thing more grand and imposing. A little 
bay, extremely narrow at the entrance, forms the 
harbour. On each side of it stand forts of pro- 
digious strength, particularly those on the left. 



: 



XXIV.] PEACE. 367 

wlierc the ground is considerably elevated, whilst 
the city itself, with its ramparts and towers, its 
numerous steeples, spires, and public buildings, 
gives an assurance of wealth and magnificence 
peculiarly striking. When we entered, every tower 
was surmounted by a national banner half mast 
hio'h, a circumstance which did not at least dimi- 
nish the effect of a first view ; and the guns from 
the forts answering our salute, showed us how 
desperate must be the condition of an enemy that 
should venture within their range. Why the flags 
should thus indicate a general mourning, we Avere 
at a loss to guess, till the pilot informed us that 
this was holy week. Then, indeed, we remembered 
that we had returned to a lloman Catholic coun- 
tr}', and rejoiced at the lucky accident which had 
brought us thither at such a season. 

As it was late before we anchored, I was pre- 
vented from landing that night ; but on the mor- 
row I Avent on shore at an early hour, Avith the 
intention of seeing as much as my time Avould 
alloAv. But in my proposed visits to the different 
points Avorthy of attention I Avas interrupted. It 
Avas Good-Friday, consequently all public places 
were shut, and neither guides nor carriages could 
be procured. But if I Avas disappointed in this, my 
disappointment Avas amply compensated by a AaoAV 
of the religious ceremonies peculiar to tliat day. 



368 HAVANNAH. [CH. 

Walking into the largest church in the city, I 

beheld, beside the altar, a figure of our Saviour as 

large as life, nailed to a cross. Beside this figure 

stood a number of Monks, one of whom presented 

a rod with a sponge affixed, to its mouth, while a 

second thrust a spear into its side, from which 

came out a liquor having the colour of blood and 

water. This being carefully caught in a golden 

dish, the figure was taken do\\T.i from the cross, 

wrapped round with white linen clothes, and laid 

upon a bier, when an imposing procession began 

in the following order : First marched a military 

band, playing slow and solemn music; next came 

a guard of soldiers, with heads bent down, and 

arms reversed; then followed about two hundred 

Monks belonging to different orders, arrayed in 

their dark robes, with hands and feet bare, and 

crucifixes suspended from their necks. A short 

interval now succeeded, and another party of 

Monks dressed in white, appeared, singing hymns 

in honour of the Virgin. Next came a splendid 

couch surmounted by a canopy, covered with 

white silk, and sparkling with gold and jewels, 

upon which sat a waxen image of the Mother of 

God, clothed in gorgeous apparel. Following 

this was another party of white-robed Monks, 

chanting a requiem for a departed soul, and then 

a second interval. At the distance of perhaps 



n 



XXIV.] IIAVANNAH. 3G9 

twenty yards from these came two Monks bearing 
two large silver nails, then two others bearing a 
spear and a rod, and then the body of our Saviour, 
stretched at ftdl length upon the bier. After the 
bier came two Monks bearing two other nails, and 
then another two bearing a small cross and a ladder. 
Here, again, there was another interval, which was 
succeeded by a third white-robed party likewise 
chanting a requiem. Next to these came about 
twenty canons arrayed in scarlet; then another 
couch covered with crimson velvet, which sup- 
ported a figure of Mary Magdalen, likewise in a 
sitting posture; then a second body of canons, suc- 
ceeded by about two hundred Monks in black ; 
after these, another guard of soldiers, and last of 
all a second military band. 

In spite of prejudice, I could not avoid being 
deeply struck by this solemn Y>rocession. The airs 
performed by the bands were slow and mournful, 
the voices of the singers w^re deep and musical, 
tlie dresses were rich, to a degree of splendour, and 
the whole was gone through Avith much apparent 
devotion. No doubt, when regarded with the eye 
of reflection, the whole may seem something worse 
than ludicrous, but it is impossible to witness the 
scene, and to reason on its propriety at the same 
time. As long as the pageant is before your eyes, 
you cannot avoid being powerfully impressed by 

R 5 



370 HAVANNAH. [CH. 

it ; nor is it till after it has disappeared, that you 
are inclined to ask jourself why you gave way to 
feelings of that nature. Yet, among the natives, 
I thought I could observe a considerable degree 
of levity. It is true, that as many as were in the 
streets, or at the windows, dropped upon their 
knees while the procession passed, but their care- 
less looks and suppressed smiles safficiently 
proved that they knelt only because they were 
obliged to kneel. 

Commencing at the door of the church where 
the re])resentation of the crucifixion had been ex- 
hibited, the funeral party (for it was neither more 
nor less) proceeded through the principal streets 
in the town, with a slow and measured pace. As 
all except the soldiers walked two and two, it 
covered, I should conceive, little less than a mile 
in extent, and after winding from lane to lane, and 
from square to square, directed its steps towards a 
particular convent where the waxen image was 
solemnly deposited in a vault. It is said, but with 
what truth I cannot pretend to determine, that 
a different image is made use of every year, and 
that the vault is now so full of waxen corpses, that 
it will be necessary before long to have some of 
them destroyed. 

Having now got rid of the most sacred part of 
their burthen, the Monks, bearing only the two 



■■ 



XXIV.] HAVAI^NAH. 371 

couches, returned in procession by the same route, 
and in the same order as tliey liad proceeded, only 
the bands struck up lively airs, and the singers 
chanted hymns of rejoicing and hallelujahs. In- 
stead of walking at a slow pace, likewise, they 
stepped out almost in a sort of dance, and reach- 
ing the door of the great church, they there sepa- 
rated, each party hastening to its own house to 
celebrate mass. 

Into one or two of the convent chapels I like- 
wise entered, and was present during the perform- 
ance of their very striking service. I found them 
ornamented in the most ma2:nificent manner. The 
rafters of many being gilded over, and all the win- 
dows crowded with stained glass. Of pictures, 
and what struck me as something better than mere 
daubs, there were also great numbers. In a word, 
it seemed as if I had reached the heart and capi- 
tal of Roman Catholic splendour. Nothing that 
I had beheld in the mother country could at all 
compare with what was now before me, and I 
returned in the evening to my ship, not indeed a 
convert to the principles of that religion, but de- 
cidedly astonished and confounded at the solemn 
magnificence of its ceremonies. 



372 [cH. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

At an early hour next morning I returned to 
the city, and found that the face of affairs had 
undergone a complete revolution. No more me- 
lancholy countenances, no closed shops and vacant 
streets were now to be seen ; all was bustle and 
rejoicing, bells ringing, carriages rattling along, 
flags flying, and guns firing. The solemnity of 
Good-Friday ends, it appeared, at ten o'clock on 
Saturday morning ; and from that time the merri- 
ments of Easter have their comimencement. 

The whole of this day I spent in strolling over 
the different walks and points of view from whence 
the town and surrounding country may be seen to 
most advantage ; and I certainly must pronounce 
it to be by far the most magnificent colonial capi- 
tal which I have visited. The streets are in general 
wide, clean, and airy ; the houses, except in the 
suburbs, are composed entirely of stone, and being 
occasionally intermingled with convents, churches, 
and other public buildings, produce a very striking 
and handsome effect. Though surrounded by a 



XXV.] IIAVANNAH. 373 

rampart, Ilavannah lias little of the confined and 
straitened appearance by which fortified towns 
are generally disfigured. The works being of 
great extent, have left within their circumference 
abundant room for the display of elegance and 
neatness in its construction, an advantage which 
has not been neglected ; whilst from their situa- 
tion they command as glorious a ])rospect as can 
well be imagined. 

When you ascend a bastion which overhangs 
the harbour, tlie city, with all its towers and 
spires lies immediately and distinctly beneath 
your gaze. Beyond it, again, you perceive a 
winding of the bay, which washes three sides of 
the promontory where the city stands ; numerous 
fields of sugar-cane and Indian corn succeed, in- 
tersected by groves of orange and other fruit- 
trees, which extend for some miles in a sort of 
inclined plane, and are at length bounded by 
lofty and rugged mountains. On your left ajrain 
is the creek or entrance to the ba}', separatino- 
you from the Moro, a line of castles remarkable 
for their strength and extent. Behind sweep the 
waters of the Gulf of Mexico ; and on the rio-ht 
is another view much resembling that which lies 
before you, only that it is more narrowed ; tlie 
high ground bearing in this direction closer upon 
the city. On the whole, I do not remember to 



374 HAVANNAH. [CH. 

have been more forcibly struck by any scenery, 
than that which I beheld from this bastion ; so 
well were town and country, castles and convents, 
land and water, hill and valley combined. 

Having spent some hours in wandering through 
the city, I endeavoured to make my way into the 
forts, and to examine the state of the works. 
But in both of these attempts I was interrupted. 
Without an order from the Governor, I w^as in- 
formed, that none even of the natives are per- 
mitted to enter the Moro, and all applications 
on the part of foreigners are uniformly refused. 
There was a degree of jealousy in this, as need- 
less as it was illiberal ; but indeed the whole con- 
duct of the Spanish authorities gave proof of 
their reluctance to admit their old allies, even to 
the common rites of hospitality. From the mo- 
ment we entered the harbour the militia of the 
island were called out, many of the guns wdiich 
commanded our shipY)ing were shotted, and artil- 
lerymen with lighted fuzes stood constantly be- 
side them. An order was likewise issued, prohibit- 
ing more than two persons to land at the same 
time from each vessel, and many other precautions 
were taken, little complimentary to the good faith 
of those, to whom Spain must feel that she owes 
her very existence. In spite of these drawbacks, 
however, I contrived to spend a week in this city 



■■ 



XXV.] HAVAJ^I^AH. 375 

witli much satisfaction. Tlie Opera and Tlicatrc 
opening on Easter Sunday, and continuing open 
during the remainder of our stay, furnished suf- 
ficient amusement for the evenings, whilst in walk- 
ing or riding about, in examining the different 
churches and chapels, and in chatting with nuns 
through the grate, or monks within their cells, 
my mornings passed away more quickly than I 
desired. 

At length, our victualling and watering being 
complete, on the 9th of April we bade adieu to the 
shores of Cuba, and running along with the gulf 
stream, took our course towards Bermuda. The 
wind favoured us greatly, and on the 17th we 
again reached these islands ; where we delayed 
till the 23rd, when, once more setting sail, we 
steered directly for England. During the re- 
mainder of the voyage nothing of importance 
occurred till the 7th of May, when, reaching in 
towards the shores of Brest, we were astonished 
by beholding the tri-coloured flag floating from 
the citadel. Of the mighty events which had 
taken place in Europe, we were as yet in perfect 
ignorance. Though surprised, therefore, at the 
first view of that beacon of war, we naturally con- 
cluded it to be no more than a signal, and passed 
on without inquiry. As we ascended the channel, 
however, we were hailed by a schooner, whicli 



376 HAVANNAH. [CH. 

professed to communicate some news concerning 
Buonaparte ; but the wind being high, we could 
not distinctly tell what was said ; nor was it till 
the 9th, when we had anchored off Spithcad, that 
the re-appearance of that wonderful man was 
made known. 

The effect of this intelligence it would be diffi- 
cult to describe. At first it was received with 
acclamations, but by and by, those who had 
dreamed of home began to perceive in it the de- 
struction of their visions. Yet we considered that 
we w^re soldiers, and certainly no regret was ex- 
perienced, when we were ordered to re-embark, 
and sail for the Downs. 

Having thus brought my narrative to a con- 
clusion, I cannot lay aside my pen without offering 
a few remarks upon the events of this busy year, 
and the nature of an American war in general. 
In doing so, I shall begin with the unfortunate 
attack upon New Orleans, and endeavour, in as 
fev/ words as possible, to assign the true causes of 
its failure. 

From the account which I have given of this 
affair, it will appear that, from its very commence- 
ment, it was replete with error, and gave promise 
of no better result than actually occurred. I do 
not here allude to the spot fixed upon for land- 
ing, because that was as appropriate as could be 



V 



XXV.] REMARKS. 377 

chosen. Neither do I refer to the groundless 
rumours brought in by deserters ; for to such all 
assaihmts arc liable ; but the error lay in the steps 
subsequently taken ; in the unhappy advance of 
the first division from a place of conceahnent into 
the open country, without pushing forward to the 
extent required. The fact is, that having reached 
the main land in safety, one out of two plans might 
have been selected by General Keane ; which, in 
all probability, would have been equally attended 
with success. Either he might have remained in 
the morass till the whole army was assembled, or, 
if this were deemed too dangerous, he ought to 
have advanced upon the city, with the first divi- 
sion alone. If it be objected, that a force of 1600 
men was incompetent for an undertaking so im- 
portant as the latter, I reply that there could be 
no more hazard in it than in the course actually 
pursued. New Orleans is not a regular fortifica- 
tion, requiring a large army, and a powerful bat- 
tering train, for its reduction. In obtaining pos- 
session of such a place there would have been no 
difficulty, because it has since been ascertained 
that the American troops were, at the time of our 
landing, some miles above the city ; and surely it 
would not have been more difficult to repulse an 
attack within a town than in the open country. 
But neither of these courses was adopted. The 



378 REMARKS. [CH. 



I 



advance was draAvn from concealment, and halted 
just where it became most exposed, as if it had 
been our design to warn the American General 
of his danger ; the consequence of which was a 
well-directed attack upon our bivouac, and an im- 
mediate commencement of those works Avhich 
afterwards resisted and repelled all our etforts. 

The second error evident, in this business, was 
the selection of the schooner instead of the ship 
for destruction. Had the latter, which lay farther 
up the stream, been destroyed, the former never 
could have passed our battery, nor been of further 
annoyance to us ; whereas, the schooner being 
burnt, the shi]) was only removed out of the 
reach of danger, and posted where she could be 
infinitely more advantageous to her friends, and 
detrimental to her enemies. This in itself was a 
gi'ave error, which beyond all doubt contributed, 
in some degree, to our repulse on the 29th of 
December. 

The third error, and one which continued to 
exert its influence throughout the whole cam- 
paign, Avas the delay in bringing on a general 
action. Why our troops fell back upon the 29th, 
I confess is to me a mystery. It was not to be 
supposed that an officer who had sho\vn so much 
judgment as the American General, Jackson, in 
his first endeavours to check our advance, would 



XXV.] REMARKS. 379 

lose the advantage which tlie nature of his posi- 
tion afforded. That he would fortify the neck of 
land, indeed, was exactly what might have been 
expected : and, therefore, every hour during which 
an attack was defen-ed, contributed so much to 
his strength and to our weakness. It is true that 
we should have suffered, and perhaps suffered 
severelv ; but our chances of suffering^ were cer- 
tainly not diminished by delay. \\e ought, there- 
fore, instead of falling back, to have pursued our 
operations with \-igour on that day ; because the 
American lines being then incomplete, would have 
assisted, rather than retarded our progress. 

It has been said, and perhaps truly, that the 
movement on the 29th was never intended for 
more than a reconnoissance ; and that the scheme 
subsequently adopted, of overpowering the ene- 
my's lire by a superior artillerv brought from the 
fleet, was a wise one. All this mav be true ; but 
as we did not succeed in silencing the enemy's 
batteries, who, on the contrary, put ours to 
silence, either the project was faulty in its de- 
sign, or some gi'ievous error was committed in its 
execution. As far as our position was affected 
by it, the results were these. Three days more 
were lost in making preparations, which ended in 
nothing; while, by the enemy, these same days 



380 REMARKS. [CH. 

were judiciously and indefatigably employed, to 
improve their deficiency and recruit their force. 

At last came the idea of digging a canal, from 
the lakes to the river, by means of which a por- 
tion of our army might be thrown to the other 
side ; a project which is said to have been sug- 
gested by Sir Alexander Cochrane ; but which, 
wheresoever originating, was at once bold and 
judicious. The canal was accordingly formed; 
not, however, with sufficient attention to the rules 
of art in like cases, as was shown by the falling 
in of the banks, and the consequent impossibility 
of bringing up boats to transport the whole de- 
tachment. Still there it was, and three hundred 
and fifty men, instead of 1400, made good their 
landini^^ on the rii3:ht bank of the river. It is 
deeply to be regretted, that Sir Edward Paken- 
ham did not delay his own advance with the main 
body till this fact had been ascertained. His 
plan of battle was, to carry the enemy's works on 
the right bank, to turn their own guns from that 
flank against themselves, and to alarm them for 
their communications, ere he should attack the 
main position on the left. Nor can it be doubted, 
that had the detached corps arrived at the hour 
first named, an easy triumph would have been 
achieved. But Pakcnham was too fiery to restrain 



XXV.] REMARKS. 381 

his troops,, after tlicy had assumed theh* ground 
on his own side. Instead, therefore, of causinir 
the cokunns to fall back out of gun-shot, and 
•wait quietly till the battle began on the left, he 
hurried them into action as soon as the day 
dawned ; and they became exposed to the Avholc 
of that volume of fire, which it was one main 
object of his movement across the Mississippi to 
destroy. Moreover, from all the moral effects of 
a partial defeat the enemy were saved; and I 
need not say how serious such things are to irre- 
gular and undisciplined bodies. I do not mean 
to assert that, in spite of all this, the American 
lines ought not to have been carried. On the 
contrary, had every officer and man done his 
duty, the victory would have been complete, 
though purchased, bej'ond a doubt, at a severe 
cost. Yet it is absurd to deny that, speaking of 
the movement as an operation of war, the attack 
on the right ought to have been withheld, till 
that on the left had either failed or succeeded. 
So far, therefore, the General is liable to censure ; 
and chivalrous and high-minded as he was, it is 
just that he should receive it. But there were 
other causes of defeat than this ; among which, 
the gross misconduct of one individual deserves 
to be especially noticed. 

To Lieutenant-Colonel Mullens, with the 44tli 



382 REMARKS. [CH. 

regiment, of wliicli lie was in command, was 
intrusted the arduous, and therefore honourable 
duty, of carrying the fascines and ladders. The 
orders were given in good time over-night ; and 
Colonel Mullens received them as if they had 
conveyed a sentence of death. He stated, in the 
hearing of the private soldiers, that his corps was 
devoted to destruction ; and conducted himself, 
in every respect, like a condemned criminal on 
the night previous to his execution. When the 
troops got under arms, instead of bringing his 
battalion to^the redoubt, where he had been in- 
structed to find the ladders, he marched directly 
past it, and led them into the field without a 
single ladder or fascine. When the day dawned, 
and he was sent back for these instruments, he 
headed his corps in its retrograde movement, but 
left it to return as it could to the front ; and 
when sought for to guide the attack, he was no- 
where to be found. That a regiment, thus abused 
and deserted by its commanding officer, should 
fall into confusion, cannot occasion any surprise ; 
it would have been surprising indeed, had a dif- 
ferent result ensued. But the melancholy effect 
of such confusion was, that other regiments were 
likewise broken ; and before order could be re- 
stored, all the generals Avere borne dead or 
wounded from the field. A large share, there- 



|R( 



XXV.] REMARKS. 383 

fore, of the blame attachable to this failure, must 
rest where fidelity of narration has oblif^ed me to 
place it. 

Again, the recall of the victorious detachment 
from the left to the right bank of the Mississippi, 
and the consequent abandonment of that com- 
plete command of the river Avhich this partial 
success had obtained, was a military error of the 
gravest kind. Great as our numerical loss had 
been in the principal action of the 8th, the ad- 
vantages of position were, at the close of the day, 
so decidedly with us, that for General Jackson to 
maintain himself any longer in front of New 
Orleans was physically impossible. His own 
despatch, indeed, addressed to the Secretary at 
War, shows, that he felt the truth so forcibly, 
that he had actually issued orders for a retreat, 
when the removal of the English from his 
menaced flank was reported to him ; and his 
battalions, which had begun to get under arms, 
were directed to resume their places. It is, how- 
ever, but just to state, that such was the miser- 
able condition of our commissariat, that the fleet 
contained not provisions enough to feed the 
people, on half rations, during a quick passage 
to Cuba : and General Lambert did not feel that 
he would be justified in risking the total loss of 
his army, which, had the campaign been pro- 



384 REMARKS. [CH 

longed another fortnight, must, under such cir- 
cumstances, have taken place. That he erred in 
this supposition is certain ; but liis was probabl}'' 
an error into wliich most men, simihirly circum- 
stanced, would have fallen. 

But the primary cause of all our disasters may 
be traced to a source even more distant than 
any yet mentioned ; I mean, to the disclosure of 
our designs to the enemy. How this occurred I 
shall not take it upon me to declare, though 
several rumours bearing at least the guise of pro- 
bability, have been circulated. The attack upon 
New Orleans was professedly a secret expedition ; 
so secret, indeed, that it was not communicated 
to the inferior officers and soldiers in the arma- 
ment, till immediately previous to our quitting 
Jamaica. To the Americans, however, it appears 
to have been known long before ; and hence it 
was that, instead of taking them unawares, we 
found them fully prepared for our reception. Nor 
is this all. It appears difficult to account for the 
degree of negligence wliich affected the naval 
heads of the present expedition, as far as the pro- 
viding a competent number of boats and small 
craft, to transport the troops, is concerned. 
Throughout the whole fleet, barges enougli to 
carry one- half of the army could not be found ; 
whereas there ought to have been a sufficient 



V 



XXV.] REMARKS. 385 

quantity to contain, not onlj- the entire force, but 
all its stores and ammunition. To this neglect, 
indeed, more perhaps than to any other circum- 
stances, is the failure of the attempt to be attri- 
buted ; since not a doubt can exist, that if Gene- 
ral Keane had been enabled to bring the whole 
of his army to land on the mornino- of tlie 23rd, 
he would have reached New Orleans, without 
firing a shot, before nightfall. But the oppor- 
tunity is past, it cannot be recalled, and there- 
fore to point out errors on the part of ni}" coun- 
trymen can serve no good end. That the failure 
is to be lamented no one will deny, since the con- 
quest of Xew Orleans would have proved beyond 
all comparison the most valuable acquisition that 
could be made to the British dominions, throu2:h- 
out the whole western hemisphere. In possession 
of that post, we should have kept the entire 
southern trade of the Ignited States in check; 
and furnished means of commerce to our own 
merchants, of incalculable value. 

The fact, however, is, that when we look back 
upon the whole series of events produced by the 
late American war, we shall find little that is 
lilvcly to flatter our vanity, or increase our self- 
importance. Except a few successes in Canada, 
at its very commencement, and the brilliant in- 
road upon Wasliington, it will be found that our 

s 



386 REMARKS, [CH. 

arms have been constantly baffled or rcpiUsed on 
shore ; whilst at sea, with the exception of the 
capture of the Chesapeake, and one or two other 
affairs towards its conclusion, we have been 
equally unsuccessful. From what cause does this 
proceed ? Not from any inferiority in courage or 
discipline, because in these particulars British 
soldiers and sailors will yield to none in the 
world. There must, then, be some other cause 
for these misfortunes, and the cause is surely one 
wliich has continually baffled all our plans of 
American warfare. 

We have long been habituated to despise the 
Americans, as an enemy unworthy of serious re- 
ofard. To this alone it is to be attributed, that 
frigates half manned were sent out to cope with 
ships capable of containing them within their 
hulls ; and to this, also, the trifling handsful of 
troops dispatched to conduct the war by land. 
Instead of fifteen hundred, had ten thousand men 
sailed from the Garonne under General Ross, how 
differently might he have acted I There would 
have been then no necessity for a re-embarkation 
after the capture of Washington, and consequently 
no time given for the defence of Baltimore ; but 
marching across the country, he might have done 
to the one city what he did to the other. And it 
is thus only that a war with America can be sue- 



XXV. 1 REMARKS. 387 

ccssfuUy carried on. To penetrate up the coun- 
try amidst pathless forests and boundless deserts, 
and to aim at permanent conquest, is out of the 
question. America must be assaulted only on 
her coasts. Her harbours destroyed, her shipping 
burned, and her seaport towns laid waste, are the 
onl}' evils which she has reason to dread; and 
were a sufficient force embarked with these orders, 
no American war would be of long conthiuance. 

A melancholy experience has now taught us 
that such a war must not be entered into, unless 
it be conducted with spirit ; and there is no con- 
ducthig it with spirit, except with a sufficient 
numerical force. To the plan proposed of mak- 
ing desert the whole line of coast, it may be 
objected, that by so doing, we should distress 
individuals, and not the Government. But they 
who oiler this objection, forget the nature both of 
the people whose cavise they plead, and of the 
Government under w^hich they live. In a demo- 
<rratical Government, the voice of the people must 
at all times prevail. The members of the House 
of Representatives are the very persons who, 
from such proceedings, would suffer most severely, 
and we all know^ how far private suffering goes to 
influence a man's public opinions. Besides, the 
principle upon which the advocates for the sa- 
•credness of private property proceed, is erroneous. 

s2 



388 REMARKS. [CH. 

Every one will allow that, in absolute monarchies, 
where war is more properly the pastime of kings, 
than the desire of subjects, non-combatants ought 
to be dealt with as humanely as possible. Not so, 
however, in States governed by popular assemblies. 
By compelling the constituents to experience the 
real hardships and miseries of warfare, you will 
compel the representatives to a vote of peace ; 
and surely that line of conduct is, upon the whole, 
most humane, Avhich puts the speediest period to 
the cruelties of war. There are few men who 
would not rather endure a raging fever for three 
days, than a slow and lingering disease for three 
months. So it is with a democracy at war. Bum 
their houses, plunder their property, block up 
their harbours, and destroy their shipping in a few 
places ; and before you have time to proceed to 
the rest, you will be stopped by entreaties for 
peace. Whereas, if you do no mischief that can 
be avoided, if you only fight their fleets and 
armies wherever you meet them, and suffer the 
inhabitants to live in imdisturbed tranquillity, 
they will continue their hostilities till they have 
worn out the means of one party, and gi'catly 
weakened those of both. 

Should another war break out between Great 
Britain and America, this is the course to be 
adopted by the former. Besides which, I humbly 



XXV.] REMARKS. 380 

conceive that a second attempt might he hazarded 
upon New Orleans, because the importance of the 
conquest would authorise almost any sacrifice 
for its attainment; and once g-ained, it could 
easil}- be defended. The neck of land, upon 
which it is built, extends in the same form above 
as below the town ; and the same advantajres 
which it holds out to its present defenders would 
of course be afforded to us. A chain of works 
thrown across from the river to the marsh would 
render it inaccessible from above ; whilst by cover- 
ing the lakes and the Mississippi with cruisers, all 
attacks from below would be sufficiently guarded 
against. 



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